What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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If you were/are using parts.toyota.com the new website is autoparts.toyota.com and it's pretty terrible to use in my opinion.

This website is garbage now. Am I missing something or is there no way to view diagrams anymore? I used it all the time to find parts with their diagrams. How do they expect you find parts easily now? Hopefully it's still a WIP and they at least have diagrams again.

What's everyone using now for part diagrams?

Edit: Looks like TOYOTA | Japan Parts EU is a good site.
 
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Just a follow up on my droped broken plastic inside the valve cover from a weekish ago. My wire harness disintegrated and dropped plastic while removing the valve cover on the driver side. Plastic fell down under the cam, and I only had about 7mm of clearance to use anything to get it out.

Not focused but it fell down here

2023-04-24_04-01-42 by Jeff Burt, on Flickr

I really didn't want to pull the exhaust cam, but nothing I tried worked, until I found an ear forcep on amazon. That coupled with my cheap wireless boroscope seems to have gotten everything out of there.

2023-05-02_10-29-27 by Jeff Burt, on Flickr

2023-05-02_10-30-12 by Jeff Burt, on Flickr
 
I really didn't want to pull the exhaust cam, but nothing I tried worked, until I found an ear forcep on amazon. That coupled with my cheap wireless boroscope seems to have gotten everything out of there.

Well I just learned about the existence of a new tool. Thanks!!
 
What did I do in my 3rd gen today? I (and my 4Runner) survived my commute to work.

Lady in an SUV took a left turn in front of me... no other cars in sight so this is just a good old fashioned case of "not looking where you're going." I'm grateful that she pulled her head out of her ass with 2 feet to spare and swerved away. Unbelievable. I want to believe that my upgraded 4th gen horns helped :)
 
This website is garbage now. Am I missing something or is there no way to view diagrams anymore? I used it all the time to find parts with their diagrams. How do they expect you find parts easily now? Hopefully it's still a WIP and they at least have diagrams again.

What's everyone using now for part diagrams?

Edit: Looks like TOYOTA | Japan Parts EU is a good site.

I couldn't find a way to get to diagrams at all. That used to be my main reference for parts diagrams but not anymore.
 
Just a follow up on my droped broken plastic inside the valve cover from a weekish ago. My wire harness disintegrated and dropped plastic while removing the valve cover on the driver side. Plastic fell down under the cam, and I only had about 7mm of clearance to use anything to get it out.

I really didn't want to pull the exhaust cam, but nothing I tried worked, until I found an ear forcep on amazon. That coupled with my cheap wireless boroscope seems to have gotten everything out of there.


I feel like some intentionally directed compressed air would have made quick work of this problem. thoughts?







.
 
Did you go OEM or poly?

Poly. Almost regret doing it, as the old bushings seemed fine.
Replacing lbj/ubj and went a little crazy since I bought a press and thought that I should do it all while I can.

Debating on whether I should do the bearings, as I have the whole steering knuckle apart and a press, and won't be in that situation again for a while.

They sound good, turn smooth, but there is a very slight amount of play that I can create when turning by hand with the knuckle flat. It is almost 30 years old by this point though.

There are threads on new bearings failing for no reason after just a few months.. I bought koyo, but even if I had oem I would be debating it after feeling how good these feel.

Wwyd?

Can original bearings last 300k?
Truck has 200k.
 
Poly. Almost regret doing it, as the old bushings seemed fine.
Replacing lbj/ubj and went a little crazy since I bought a press and thought that I should do it all while I can.

Debating on whether I should do the bearings, as I have the whole steering knuckle apart and a press, and won't be in that situation again for a while.

They sound good, turn smooth, but there is a very slight amount of play that I can create when turning by hand with the knuckle flat. It is almost 30 years old by this point though.

There are threads on new bearings failing for no reason after just a few months.. I bought koyo, but even if I had oem I would be debating it after feeling how good these feel.

Wwyd?

Can original bearings last 300k?
Truck has 200k.

I bet you made the right decision on the bushings. I thought mine looked pretty good and the biggest reason for replacing them was frozen cams. Once I got it on road though I'm pretty sure those old bushings were pretty well worn. Polys are better in a lot of ways too imo.

As far as wheel bearings I don't know. Seems like the back are generally the bigger issue because of axle seal leaks.
 
Did you go OEM or poly?

I bet you made the right decision on the bushings. I thought mine looked pretty good and the biggest reason for replacing them was frozen cams. Once I got it on road though I'm pretty sure those old bushings were pretty well worn. Polys are better in a lot of ways too imo.

As far as wheel bearings I don't know. Seems like the back are generally the bigger issue because of axle seal leaks.

I decided against it.
Took the rotor off the other wheel, and it was so, incredibly, butter, that I decided to leave it be.
Not touching these until they give issues.

Also never checking wheel bearings with a brake rotor on ever again.

There's no crunch on the other side either.
It's mostly the dust shield and the angle at which I'm turning it. Maybe a slight bit of barely perceptible grit.

Tiniest bit of play in both hubs with wheel and rotor off

Not sure if these things wear linearly, or exponentially, but after 27 years, I think it's more than acceptable.
it wasn't nearly enough to bother me, and if anything, I was surprised at how butter they are for being so old.

Would probably have MORE or the same play after all the press work that I do.

We'll find out either way. Maybe they turned a little too easy.

I'm going to put my old bushings in a vice and see how well they move with a screwdriver. If they seem solid, I'm leaving the upper ones alone, as I don't want poly squeak.
 
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Threw P0420, and noticed my tailpipe had a good bit of soot on it. Happened to me about a year ago (with new O2's) so I pulled the rear sensor, sprayed it with some brake clean and threw it back in which cleared my code. Planned on doing it again but I don't have a spare gasket, does anybody know if they're reusable or are they only good for one use?
 
Stuck the new steering rack in the '99. I was expecting it to be pretty easy, but it ended up being a huge struggle with the center bushing. The new center bushing on the rack just wouldn't fit into the bracket on the frame. Noe enough room. I tried bending at it, thumping gently on the rack, etc. Eventually after bending/prying/thumping,wrestling with the bracket I got it in.

Belatedly, I looked at my old rack and realized why I was having such a hard time. A while back I replaced the dead original rubber bushings with poly. Which has two halves and a center pipe/spacer/tube. And that center part was MISSING on the old rack, and apparently I'd just slid it in and cranked the bolt down and sort of crushed the frame bracket shut since the bolt didn't bottom out on the pipe/spacer. Not leaving enough room for a bushing that has the center piece like it should. DERP, a little gift from me from years ago. THANKS!

Then, because I was worn out, grouchy, beat up, grungy I decided I'd try to put the front diff back in as well. I was expecting more of a fight, but it was actually pretty easy. Since I converted it to a non-ADD (it already has manual hubs from last year's tinkering) I removed the vac solenoids and the vac lines going down, but left the diff breather and zip tied the e-locker wiring to it. Used a trans jack and it just slid right on in. Easier than I was expecting.

I used the little bridge harness for the front ADD sensor, cut it in half and connected the wires, and plugged that into the car harness. From some reading on the subject, that should be enough to make the ECU happy. At this point, the 4WD is all mechanical and it doesn't matter if the ECU likes it or not, but this should get the dash 4WD light to turn on and off.

Oh, and put a new high pressure power steering line in, and looked at where the slight leak on the return line is coming from. I put a filter on it 10+ years ago and assumed that it was one of the hose connection leaking, but it was really just leaking out of the side of the filter. I guess the housing has a tiny hole in it? Ordered a new one, waiting til that comes in to finish up the power steering stuff.

And I pulled the air box to get to the power steering hose banjo bolt, and noticed a big split/crack in the intake tubing right next to the throttle. Probably explains why it threw a lean CEL not long ago. Decided to roll the dice on a cheap Amazon knockoff, just because it was cheap and can get here by Monday. I kind of assume it won't last as long as it should, but if it cracks I'll get an OEM. I don't think the OEM Toyota replacements last 20 years like the original ones did.
 
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