Rushthezeppelin
New member
Found out my #2 cylinder has 40#. Not good. I wish I could post a new thread to get some advice here but I'm new so no new posts for me.:noidea:
Do a leak down test next.
Found out my #2 cylinder has 40#. Not good. I wish I could post a new thread to get some advice here but I'm new so no new posts for me.:noidea:
That's a good call on a new rack. Do you know when your lower ball joints were replaced last?
A leak down test is absolutely the way to properly diagnose this problem, I agree. I don't have access to a leak down test set. Also, I just drove it 2400 miles in 4 days, oil level never changed and it ran cool the whole way. It has no other signs of a bad head gasket or rings plus I have no history on this old girl so I have to assume at the least it needs its valve lash checked anyway. Worst case a burnt valve or two. That's what I'm going with. I'm pulling the head in the next week and I have a very reputable machine shop near me ready to do the necessary work. I'll check in when I get it pulled. Thanks for the input!
Cleaned my throttle body yesterday without taking it off the intake plenum. Drove around for a bit with a really high idle (1500-1900) So I broke down and took it off and cleaned it really thoroughly as well as removing the IAC and really cleaning that too. IAC was absolutely filthy. Idle was still pretty high (like 1100) and after fiddling around I found that the butterfly valve wasn't returning all the way because of that little damper on the throttle cable side. I could manually push it down and it would idle normal and stay that way until I hit the gas again. Decided to try and jimmy with that little adjustment screw that hits that damper but I can't seem to find a way to grip the screw and adjust the nut (the head of the screw is blank so even if I took to back off I'm not sure there's anything I can do). Should I even be messing with that? I assume the higher idle is due to more air now getting past the butterfly valve. Is it possible that it needs more lubrication to allow it to come all the way back to fully closed? I'm guessing it never quite fully closed because of that damper but with the deposits it was pretty well sealed when I was off the gas. Oh also to top it off when I went to reattach the intake tube it split a bit where the notch for the throttle body is. Doesn't seem to be causing a leak but I'm going to have to replace that ><
You can usually rent a leak down tester from any auto parts store with a loaner tool program. I would highly recommend doing a leak down test before removing the head.
Why's that? Head's gotta come off no matter what's causing the loss of compression right? What am I missing? It'll be apparent what the issue is pretty quick when the head's off.
Why's that? Head's gotta come off no matter what's causing the loss of compression right? What am I missing? It'll be apparent what the issue is pretty quick when the head's off.
Have some runs and trash that requiring cutting and buffing but ok for a garage paint job and very little painting exp
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