What did you do with your 4runner today?

'07 GX470...but it's a 120 chassis like the 4th-gen :happy: In the midst of replacing the main muffler section of the exhaust. It developed a leak a while ago at the inlet pipe, small rusted out area where a heat shield was welded on. I planned to just unbolt it from the Y and weld the hole shut but last week it got noisier and discovered the outlet pipe of the muffler broke off :(

Parts List:

- Walker Quiet-Flow exhaust from Summit Racing's ebay store, had a 10% discount code so it was cheaper (and quicker shipping) than Rock Auto and everywhere else
- Gaskets for both ends of the exhaust. 20% discount code plus another $5 off through Advance Auto's points program
- Nuts and bolts from my box of assorted hardware

The original spring bolts broke when I started removing them; luckily the threaded areas where these bolts go into at the Y-pipe are pretty much just tack-welded nuts that were practically just nubs of rust that disintegrated once I started turning the bolts. I just ran a unibit through the holes to clean them up, took barely a minute.

I had to lower the spare tire to get enough room to take the muffler outlet pipe + tailpipe section off. Spent about 15 minutes with a angle grinder to get the bolts off holding the muffler pipe to the tailpipe, way too rusted to get a socket on them. Sections of the flange also rusted away but it appears there's enough of it left to seal (will put some high-temp silicone to be on the safe side).

Was already getting dark (and cold) so I brought the new muffler indoors to apply heat-resistant paint on the hangers, pipes, and flanges since those pieces aren't stainless like the muffler.
 
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'07 GX470...but it's a 120 chassis like the 4th-gen :happy: In the midst of replacing the main muffler section of the exhaust. It developed a leak a while ago at the inlet pipe, small rusted out area where a heat shield was welded on. I planned to just unbolt it from the Y and weld the hole shut but last week it got noisier and discovered the outlet pipe of the muffler broke off :(

Parts List:

- Walker Quiet-Flow exhaust from Summit Racing's ebay store, had a 10% discount code so it was cheaper (and quicker shipping) than Rock Auto and everywhere else
- Gaskets for both ends of the exhaust. 20% discount code plus another $5 off through Advance Auto's points program
- Nuts and bolts from my box of assorted hardware

The original spring bolts broke when I started removing them; luckily the threaded areas where these bolts go into at the Y-pipe are pretty much just tack-welded nuts that were practically just nubs of rust that disintegrated once I started turning the bolts. I just ran a unibit through the holes to clean them up, took barely a minute.

I had to lower the spare tire to get enough room to take the muffler outlet pipe + tailpipe section off. Spent about 15 minutes with a angle grinder to get the bolts off holding the muffler pipe to the tailpipe, way too rusted to get a socket on them. Sections of the flange also rusted away but it appears there's enough of it left to seal (will put some high-temp silicone to be on the safe side).

Was already getting dark (and cold) so I brought the new muffler indoors to apply heat-resistant paint on the hangers, pipes, and flanges since those pieces aren't stainless like the muffler.

I went through pretty much this exact process 2 weekends ago. The flange after my muffler broke while offroading so I cut the exhaust off after the muffler and replaced the whole cat back after the y-pipe.

Made the mistake of replacing my cat gaskets at the same time, which ended up ruining the cat studs because of how rusted they were and made me have to take it to an exhaust shop to get them replaced.
 
2” of lift from Bilstein 5100 and rear springs

I am finally completing my planned “upgrades” to my 2006 4WD Limited that I purchased with 200K miles!!!
I have put right at 20k since purchase and in that time I replaced one O2 sensor on the drivers side to clear the infamous “Cat not operating efficiently” code and haven’t seen it since ;-). Next I replaced the worn out street tires with a set of Falken Wildpeak AT3W 265/60R18’s. (Since then I have put these on my other 2 4Runners and I love these tires!!! Then I got industrious and replaced my front and rear rotors with the PowerStop Z23 kits and new shoes on the parking brake too.
That gets us to today and my afternoon at 4WParts ;-).
Finally my 5100’s were installed with the fronts set on the top ring 2.5” and the B12 1.5” lift springs from Bilstein. At the same time I had them install a set of Toyota remanufactured front axels from Cardone via Rock Auto. Shafts cost $124 delivered to my door and arrived in only 3 days!! Let’s hear it for Rock Auto!!!
For now I am still running the original front springs but that may eventually ;-) Prior to installation I measured from the ground to the bottom of the fender openings and front was 33” and rear 35”. With the 5100’s and rear springs it is now 36.25” front and 37” rear. FWIW measuring from pavement to top side of the running board is right at 16” front and rear. Exactly what I was expecting to see. It drives incredibly! I doubt it felt this good brand new ;-)
 

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I am finally completing my planned “upgrades” to my 2006 4WD Limited that I purchased with 200K miles!!!
I have put right at 20k since purchase and in that time I replaced one O2 sensor on the drivers side to clear the infamous “Cat not operating efficiently” code and haven’t seen it since ;-). Next I replaced the worn out street tires with a set of Falken Wildpeak AT3W 265/60R18’s. (Since then I have put these on my other 2 4Runners and I love these tires!!! Then I got industrious and replaced my front and rear rotors with the PowerStop Z23 kits and new shoes on the parking brake too.
That gets us to today and my afternoon at 4WParts ;-).
Finally my 5100’s were installed with the fronts set on the top ring 2.5” and the B12 1.5” lift springs from Bilstein. At the same time I had them install a set of Toyota remanufactured front axels from Cardone via Rock Auto. Shafts cost $124 delivered to my door and arrived in only 3 days!! Let’s hear it for Rock Auto!!!
For now I am still running the original front springs but that may eventually ;-) Prior to installation I measured from the ground to the bottom of the fender openings and front was 33” and rear 35”. With the 5100’s and rear springs it is now 36.25” front and 37” rear. FWIW measuring from pavement to top side of the running board is right at 16” front and rear. Exactly what I was expecting to see. It drives incredibly! I doubt it felt this good brand new ;-)

Looking good! Glad to see another Bham T4R on here.
 
I went through pretty much this exact process 2 weekends ago. The flange after my muffler broke while offroading so I cut the exhaust off after the muffler and replaced the whole cat back after the y-pipe.

Made the mistake of replacing my cat gaskets at the same time, which ended up ruining the cat studs because of how rusted they were and made me have to take it to an exhaust shop to get them replaced.

If I ever have to remove the Y-pipe I'm having a shop torch them out. I don't like the idea of torching stuff while lying on my back LOL

And exhaust update, it's done. Nice and quiet again like OEM, fits well and the tailpipe connection isn't leaking, will to for a ride tonight to heat-cure the paint.
 
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I got it six days ago and it's bone stock. No reason not to take it out, so it saw dirt for probably the first time. Are the traction aids and DAC supposed to be that loud? Whoa.
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Not today but a few days ago painted my cbi skid plate and installed new energy suspension front and rear sway bar bushings.
 
Did some exhaust leak chasing, replaced an O2 sensor, installed a replacement headlight since one fogged up AND found this little nugget of joy....

RhQRetdl.jpg


The alignment cam could be moved around easily and the bolt was loose. The cam tab seems to have been flattened by something, so I beat on it a bit to try to get it back to where it'd at least hold the cam. Any suggestions??

There are these now too.
HD LCA Frame Brace, 2003-2009 4Runner | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
 

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I got it six days ago and it's bone stock. No reason not to take it out, so it saw dirt for probably the first time. Are the traction aids and DAC supposed to be that loud? Whoa.
09a21d017483fdf79d36c42ff83618ee.jpg


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Goodness either your rear suspension is shot or the photo was taken at a weird angle.... would be surprised if the rear shocks didn't blow on stock bump stops. I don't have DAC on my SR5 but my VSC and ABS will beep loudly if I get into sticky situations or if I loose too much traction.
 
Goodness either your rear suspension is shot or the photo was taken at a weird angle.... would be surprised if the rear shocks didn't blow on stock bump stops. I don't have DAC on my SR5 but my VSC and ABS will beep loudly if I get into sticky situations or if I loose too much traction.
It was at a weird angle with two opposing corners on mounds. I was trying to get it stuck to see how well the traction aids work. Aside from the beeping, there is a fairly loud banging type sound as the systems pulsate the brake. A holy crap that's loud level. I've got experience with newer electronic locking diffs and tractiin control and they seem silent by comparison.

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It was at a weird angle with two opposing corners on mounds. I was trying to get it stuck to see how well the traction aids work. Aside from the beeping, there is a fairly loud banging type sound as the systems pulsate the brake. A holy crap that's loud level. I've got experience with newer electronic locking diffs and tractiin control and they seem silent by comparison.

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DAC and VSC are very loud.
 

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