Tironeous
New member
Mobile 1 Synthetic. It's my first time doing it so please don't just take my word for it and do your research. Amazon.com: Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, Auto, 12.5 oz.: Automotive
What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
Mobile 1 Synthetic. It's my first time doing it so please don't just take my word for it and do your research. Amazon.com: Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, Auto, 12.5 oz.: Automotive
I really like the looks of that drawer box. I'm planning on doing something similar over the winter. One thing I want to mention that I'm going to account for, is I want to leave just enough room to get to the small access panel on the rear hatch. If your gate opener fails that's the only way to get the hatch open. I probably wouldn't even have thought about this but mine failed temporarily yesterday, (for the second time in 2 months). It's pretty common so I think it's important to be able to get in there. Just thought I'd share that. Looks good though. Gives me ideas. ThanksYesterday, I made a cradle for the FJ t-case in preparation for the swap next weekend. Sits great on the floor jack and won't fall off. Also fits the stock t-case.
Today, I started building my storage drawers.
xtremewlr
Member
Didn't know that. Haven't had any issues with mine yet thankfully. I'll have to look into that.
There are several threads on here about it. When you have time look through this 12 page one. https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/87913-help-rear-hatch-wont-open.html?highlight=hatch
I was just looking at how your box is built and it doesn't look like you would be able to get to the release lever and you sure wouldn't be able to move the box, lol. It would be a major PIA if that hatch failed. I wish we just had a manual hatch mechanism. Just thought I'd mention it in case you wanted to see if there's a way to factor that into your build. Good luck with it. It really looks good.
xtremewlr
Member
Awesome, thanks for the link. Easy enough to cut access to the release lever if needed right now.
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JuniorPigeon
New member
I have drawers in the back of my Runner as well, and have always wondered "what the hell am I going to do if my hatch fails?"
I need to get to cutting a hole for this finally haha. Does anyone have a view of what to cut without digging in to find out?
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I don't have a pic but you need to be able to get to, and put your hand into the hole behind the small square access cover on rear gate interior panel. You pop the cover off then there's a small white cover on the lock that comes off and you pull up the small lever and it releases your hatch. I know that's more than you asked but I got started and couldn't stop.:lol:
If anyone's been reading my other posts on here you would have seen that I just upgraded my front brakes to the larger, sport ones. Then I posted about a really good deal on powerstop rear rotors and pads. The "daily driver" variety, not the drilled/slotted ones. Anyway, I installed them today and after the bed in procedure I'm happy to report these are doing great as well. I originally had horrible pulsation, especially in the steering wheel before I did the fronts. Then most of the pulsation was gone, all gone from the steering wheel, just had a slight pulse coming from the rear. Now, I can't believe how good it feels. No pulsation at all and the pedal effort is unbelievably light. I never thought it would make so much more difference doing the rear but it is noticeable. I did find one thing I don't like. Inside the drum portion of the L/R rotor was a small amount of coagulated gear oil. The axle seal is either leaking very very slightly or it had a leak previously that was fixed and not cleaned thoroughly. I cleaned it up and I'll pull that rotor back off in a couple of months to see how it looks.
If anyone's interested, Rock Auto still has the powerstop rear rotor and ceramic pad combo for $43.79 + tax and shipping. Came out to $64 for me.
NOTE: I just checked and that set is now $54 Prime on Amazon. If you're a prime member that would be even cheaper. This is the part # KOE2405
If anyone's interested, Rock Auto still has the powerstop rear rotor and ceramic pad combo for $43.79 + tax and shipping. Came out to $64 for me.
NOTE: I just checked and that set is now $54 Prime on Amazon. If you're a prime member that would be even cheaper. This is the part # KOE2405
$30 UCA from rock auto.
Stock was shot at 190k and ready to fall apart on one big pothole.
1 hour job.
I figure for the price, I can replace it three times compared to the next higher priced one and it can't be that much worse. One more rattle to fix and I already have the steering shaft ready to go for that.
Stock was shot at 190k and ready to fall apart on one big pothole.
1 hour job.
I figure for the price, I can replace it three times compared to the next higher priced one and it can't be that much worse. One more rattle to fix and I already have the steering shaft ready to go for that.
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kcdehart
New member
While I see the logic, things get a lot more expensive than a good UCA if this one fails suddenly, rather than gradually like the OEM did.
Right. I mean it is a ball joint and some bushings in stamped steel. I'm not offroading, so I feel safe enough
MikeinNH67
Senior Member
Not today but yesterday....I crawled under the back to lube up my spare tire winch and found the emissions canister above the spare was no longer attached to the mounts. The mounts were rusted to nothingness so I made a bracket that went between the floor support rails to bolt it to on the rear side. Can't reach the front side easily so that end got the zip tie repair. Another thing to check in the salt belt, wahoo.
Tironeous
New member
Added a new stick.
Is that functional?! I have excite
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montijo505
Senior Member
Finally got it done? What's your experience so far?Added a new stick.
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xtremewlr
Member
Of course. Why would I go thru all that work and not have a functional transfer case?
Waiting on the driveshafts still, they won't be done until Thursday or Friday. Front shortened and rear lengthened for the FJ tcase. I just finished it up today, except for doing the wiring to get the 4WD and 4LO dash light to turn on. Worry about that later.
The tcase is a direct bolt-in. The "hard" part is cutting the hole in the trans tunnel and modifying the stick to come out where I have it. Just takes time and patience. I do have twin sticks for it but wanted to go with the J-shifter for now. Might swap the twins later.
My just-finished look didnt last long..
Spent some time last 2 weeks installing the diff drop (surprising difference, my cvs are just about parallel), rebooting both axles, sway bar relocation. Installed the victory 4x4 ladder, gas can, relocated shovel mount, blah blah blah. Then I pulled off my spidetrax spacers and listed wheels for sale. Have a guy coming to get them Friday.
With that said.. i also installed a 1" body lift, pulled off the nfab steps, did an aggressive body mount chop (not welding it in, cant see too much of a point from a structural perspective.. ), cut and beat in the pinch welds in the fender, trimmed the fenders a bit, did the front diff fluid change, installed some ditch light pods, etc.
The tires have delivered and wheels should be here tomorrow.. pretty excited to go to 35s... but it was a late night wishful decision when I couldn't sleep...and well...35s...here I come... lol
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Spent some time last 2 weeks installing the diff drop (surprising difference, my cvs are just about parallel), rebooting both axles, sway bar relocation. Installed the victory 4x4 ladder, gas can, relocated shovel mount, blah blah blah. Then I pulled off my spidetrax spacers and listed wheels for sale. Have a guy coming to get them Friday.
With that said.. i also installed a 1" body lift, pulled off the nfab steps, did an aggressive body mount chop (not welding it in, cant see too much of a point from a structural perspective.. ), cut and beat in the pinch welds in the fender, trimmed the fenders a bit, did the front diff fluid change, installed some ditch light pods, etc.
The tires have delivered and wheels should be here tomorrow.. pretty excited to go to 35s... but it was a late night wishful decision when I couldn't sleep...and well...35s...here I come... lol
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
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