What did you do with your 4runner today?

maxdef said:
I opened up my transfer case actuator to see how everything was after wondering how bad mine might be, but I was very surprised to see it quite clean and rust free. There is some visible gunk near the bottom seal line, and it appears to be some gear oil as it looks like old Royal Purple from when I filled it a few years ago. Not quite sure if that's what I was seeing; I've also never had any leaks. I wiped up some of the hardly-firmed grease and added a little more on the visible teeth/gears. A dab of fresh oil on the gasket and mating surface and it was back on.

KrET79G.jpeg
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hi [MENTION=678989]maxdef[/MENTION], I ahve a question on another post and maybe you can answer.

" my 4Lo isn't working for a long time. I noticed that the breather hose was disconnected for not sure how long. I don't do off roads or cross flood waters but I understand that moisture can still sip in. When I switch it to 4Lo i can hear the transfer case actuator beeps. I already tried to tap, heat gun, wiggle without success.
Would it be ok to put a couple of sprays of WD 40 right into the breather hose inlet and hopefully lubricate the gears inside??
My 4Hi is working fine but wondering if a couple of WD 40 sparys will damage the electronics inside.

Pls help!

Thanks!"

Is there lots of electronics inside that will be damaged if I sqirt q couple of sprays of WD40? Thanks in advance
 
matrix111 said:
hi [MENTION=678989]maxdef[/MENTION], I ahve a question on another post and maybe you can answer.

" my 4Lo isn't working for a long time. I noticed that the breather hose was disconnected for not sure how long. I don't do off roads or cross flood waters but I understand that moisture can still sip in. When I switch it to 4Lo i can hear the transfer case actuator beeps. I already tried to tap, heat gun, wiggle without success.
Would it be ok to put a couple of sprays of WD 40 right into the breather hose inlet and hopefully lubricate the gears inside??
My 4Hi is working fine but wondering if a couple of WD 40 sparys will damage the electronics inside.

Pls help!

Thanks!"

Is there lots of electronics inside that will be damaged if I sqirt q couple of sprays of WD40? Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

I would first suggest you open the actuator by removing the little protection/skid plate and the side that I did. This will allow you to see my same view and check for any trapped water or corrosion. I'm not a fan of WD40 myself, and I can't rightfully say what would be the best to spray if that's even a good route, but with this access you can apply white lithium grease on a lot the contact areas.

This obviously won't solve serious issues, but it's some maintenance and gives you an idea on the overall condition. I'm not too knowledgeable on these systems though, so that's the best I can offer so far. If you haven't already, trim back your breather hose to fresher rubber, apply lubricant, and slide it onto the nozzle. I did not splice mine so it was a tight fit but it seems fine.
 
Did a brake inspection on my '07 Highlander, the pads were all good and rea caliper slider pins seemed good as the caliper would move easily on them, but removed the pins and they were in need of additional grease, so they got it. Up front I found one caliper slider pin seized, tried to free it up but it was really stuck! Replaced the caliper with NAPA, added some more grease to the new pins and same on other front caliper pins. Must have seized very recently as pads were fine and so was rotor.
I have a 4th gen too and did a brake inspection on it about month ago, rear caliper was seized and pads/rotor shot.
A good idea to take a look at your brakes at least once a year by removing all wheels, maybe when you do a tire rotation. Mine is AWD so no rotation normally, but I remove the wheels in spring and clean them up good from winter and brake dust, both of which eat aluminum.
 
It's required for your A/C. It is not a transmission cooler- those are much smaller radiators that I believe are on the driver side in the front of the main rad and A/C condenser. I'm not sure which models had those.

What kind of fluid is leaking? Transmission fluid is generally red to really dark red if its older.
 
maxdef said:
It's required for your A/C. It is not a transmission cooler- those are much smaller radiators that I believe are on the driver side in the front of the main rad and A/C condenser. I'm not sure which models had those.

What kind of fluid is leaking? Transmission fluid is generally red to really dark red if its older.
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Thank you so much for this help. I really appreciate it. Do you happen to know what happens if the air-conditioning condenser fails? Does it just kill the air conditioning? Can catastrophic damage happen to the engine?


This vehicle is 20+ years old. It is not a daily driver. It’s just a weekend driver carrying stuff here and there crappy weather. If the air conditioner was to go, I would never fix it This 4Runner is on its last leg
 
4Runnerarator said:
Thank you so much for this help. I really appreciate it. Do you happen to know what happens if the air-conditioning condenser fails? Does it just kill the air conditioning? Can catastrophic damage happen to the engine?


This vehicle is 20+ years old. It is not a daily driver. It’s just a weekend driver carrying stuff here and there crappy weather. If the air conditioner was to go, I would never fix it This 4Runner is on its last leg
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I'm glad I've been able to help this much then! I'm surely a novice on A/C as well, but as far as I know you could have an empty system with no negative effects. I suppose if it's not entirely sealed, long-term sitting might lead to corrosion or something but your car will operate fine, just don't run it. Perhaps remove the relay so as not to engage the pump.

Consider a dye test to determine the leak location? It always saddens me to see a one of these go to greener pastures, but I can understand the juice not being worth the squeeze. Good luck!
 
maxdef said:
I'm glad I've been able to help this much then! I'm surely a novice on A/C as well, but as far as I know you could have an empty system with no negative effects. I suppose if it's not entirely sealed, long-term sitting might lead to corrosion or something but your car will operate fine, just don't run it. Perhaps remove the relay so as not to engage the pump.

Consider a dye test to determine the leak location? It always saddens me to see a one of these go to greener pastures, but I can understand the juice not being worth the squeeze. Good luck!
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Looks like fluid is clear. Not at all like trans fluid or coolant.
 
maxdef said:
I've been considering doing this on my rear as well. Did you have tools and a press to do it yourself? Since I don't have a press I might just buy a new rear driveshaft (~$425 from a recent check), which should also cut down on some of that braking clunk that got a TSB for some models.
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A press is nice, but not required. I do have a press, but wanted to learn a technique where I can do a repair on the trail.

That said, you just need a large steel dowel and a big hammer. I happened to have a pin that I made as part of a tube bender project, that never got completed. Here's the pin I used:
53690143505_8a3c8ab315_k.jpg


Just make sure the dowel is a smaller diameter than the bearing cap. You also want to prop up and support the drive shaft so the bearing cap has space to pop out. Hope this helps.
 
Changed out just about every component on my pressure washing setup. Lots of details, documentation and video to come out in about a week...

Out with the old...
setup_karcher1_01.jpg


In with the new...
setup_active1_01.jpg
 
Friday Fun Day

We rolled up to Flathead Pass yesterday and though it was easy, it made for a lot of smiles and a great BBQ at the top! I broke the "custom" rear sway bar end-links flexing but that's an easy repair/fix...it was totally worth the needed repair...truck did great...in 4L she's unstoppable!
 

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Fitted new headlights (Not as easy as I was expecting it to be on a Toyota, frankly) and connected the orange lights on my TRD grille.
 
LOSTR4 said:
We rolled up to Flathead Pass yesterday and though it was easy, it made for a lot of smiles and a great BBQ at the top! I broke the "custom" rear sway bar end-links flexing but that's an easy repair/fix...it was totally worth the needed repair...truck did great...in 4L she's unstoppable!
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I am so jealous of Americans every single time I see a post like this.
 
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