Bigrupp
New member
I just did 7 in my frame. Wish I'd paid someone to do it for me.
What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
I just did 7 in my frame. Wish I'd paid someone to do it for me.
Elan_
New member
I made a small effort. I hate working on vehicles. I'm not a gear head at all. But I gave it a token effort. I got a drill bit about 1/8th inch into one of the bolts and said nope. I'll part with some cash for someone else to do this.
The shop that did it just welded some bits onto the end of the bolts and turned them with a wrench. Never even thought of something like that. I don't know how to weld anyway though.
Krayziekid
New member
Hi everyone. So I've been chasing some stupid vibrating/scraping sound for the past few days and I finally found it. I am assuming due to age, mud puddles, and general off-roading.
The bolt holes for the heat shield above the muffler rusted through and it has just been sitting on top of my muffler moving around. So that sucks lol.
Now on to the big question. How do I reattach the heatshield? Any ideas? Do I even need one with a stock setup? Thanks!
The bolt holes for the heat shield above the muffler rusted through and it has just been sitting on top of my muffler moving around. So that sucks lol.
Now on to the big question. How do I reattach the heatshield? Any ideas? Do I even need one with a stock setup? Thanks!
I've ripped most of mine out without issue if that makes you feel better. Damn rattling things!
I've had several of the heat shields rattle their way loose. I just remove them. Thought about trying to re attach one day, but probably not necessary.
You guys must be doing it wrong. I did a writeup somewhere on here. Broken bolts are not that bad. The key is a quality high speed drill, a good carbide tipped bit and the kicker is a small jack. I broke off two hardened back out bits into my skid plate bolts and I still got them drilled out.
Edit: found it! http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/213265-how-fix-broken
Bigrupp
New member
It's not that I did it wrong, but when you are thinking you are just gonna bolt up new skids and then have to drill and tap 7 holes it ruins your evening. Good idea on the jack though. I had actually thought about that but didn't try it. The eight bolts were the ones in the little cross pieces that protect the catalytic converter. The way they were made apparently like to hold moisture so the bolts were rusted out to about half their original size. Three of them were actually in the cross member that supports the transmission so I just took it out so they were really easy, but the ones in the frame didn't want to cooperate. Snapped off three 1/16" drill bits and had to work a little harder to get them out so I could finish drilling. The threads were jacked up bad enough in the four in the frame that I went ahead and stepped them up to M10x1.25. I should have just made some new little cross members and welded them on since mine are all beat to hell. Really crossing my fingers that I don't run into anything when I install the body lift **knock on wood**
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snowboardwcu
Member
you and me both.
tc05runner
New member
I kinda like no fender flare look. What did you spray on the bottom of the doors? Plastic dip or line-x
It looks good
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Krayziekid
New member
Hey guys. Really quick. Mounting up a full size spare in the factory location and it is just barely running the track bar. Fits the factory V8 hitch with a small bit of room, but it is definitely touching the track bar, albeit not a lot. Is that a problemo or can it be left as is? Tire size is 275/70R17 if anyone is curious.
Oneluv13T4R
New member
:crazy:
Oneluv13T4R
New member
You'll be fine..
kevinpt
Senior Member
if you pull the tire as far back as you can it might not rub
Krayziekid
New member
That's what I tried. I'll play around with it again tomorrow and see if I can move it any closer to the front. I'm not a huge fan of the slight rub, but I don't really think it can cause damage. Would it be worth taking one of my current tires off and putting that one as the spare since it is slightly worn? (Current KO2s have about 6,000 miles on them)
Here are some pics for reference:
Attachments
Slowgoat
New member
I wet sanded and clear coated my headlights.
I polished them pretty recently (less than 6 months). Below is the before pic. You can see that they are slightly yellow:
After wet sanding with 400/600/2000, then cleaning with alcohol:
Below is after the clear coat went on.
It went on super milky. What a headache! The instructions on the can say that you need to stay below 90° and below 85% humidity.
That is BS.
You need to be below 80° and 50% humidity. Now I know. I shot the clear at 88° with 55% humidity and got milky clearcoat. I panicked and laid down too many thick coats and got really bad orange peel. I got it to cure clear by sitting it in direct sun. You can see some distortion/orange peel if you look at the pic:
So I let it cure for 4 days and wet sanded the clear with 400/600/2000, and then buffed it with an orange pad/compound and then with a black pad/Swirl X:
I'm satisfied. Now to see how long they hold up!
I polished them pretty recently (less than 6 months). Below is the before pic. You can see that they are slightly yellow:
After wet sanding with 400/600/2000, then cleaning with alcohol:
Below is after the clear coat went on.
It went on super milky. What a headache! The instructions on the can say that you need to stay below 90° and below 85% humidity.
That is BS.
You need to be below 80° and 50% humidity. Now I know. I shot the clear at 88° with 55% humidity and got milky clearcoat. I panicked and laid down too many thick coats and got really bad orange peel. I got it to cure clear by sitting it in direct sun. You can see some distortion/orange peel if you look at the pic:
So I let it cure for 4 days and wet sanded the clear with 400/600/2000, and then buffed it with an orange pad/compound and then with a black pad/Swirl X:
I'm satisfied. Now to see how long they hold up!
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