How'd that work out? Selling to Carmax??
What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
How'd that work out? Selling to Carmax??
NuclearN8
New member
easy, walked in, got an appraisal, liked it, said here's the title and the keys, walked out with a check. done. took 45 minutes.
YetiX
New member
The ring around my lighter lights all the way around.
TampaBay_4Runner
New member
You're right. I installed mine during the day yesterday in the garage and it looked half lit. I checked it again when it was dark last night and it's completely lit up. Thanks.
OzarkRunner
New member
Got my new bright silver FN FX Pro wheels installed today and did the TPMS bypass as found in this thread (Pink / Black & Black / Red wires for my 2008).
Had a slight rub in reverse at full lock, so moved the fender liners up a little to cure it.
Had a slight rub in reverse at full lock, so moved the fender liners up a little to cure it.
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wadle5
New member
Damn moving on up! Keep us updated. I have been eyeing used LC 200s for a while now. An actual 3rd row and v8 sound great.
NuclearN8
New member
I consider it moving "new" rather than moving "up"... but I would be lying if I said a Land Cruiser hasn't been my dream vehicle for a decade or so now... I recently got a new F150 for work truck, this is what spawned the sale of the 4Runner.... no point my wife and I having 3 vehicles... we have an 05 corolla so she'll drive that until I see the 2018 colors on the 4Runner and LC and then we'll move forward to replace the corolla... It will be nice to start over on a new vehicle that isn't rusted to hell from northeast road salt and won't ever become rusted out, now that we moved to Texas...
V8Limited4wd
New member
After 13 years and 145k miles, I finally had the timing belt and water pump done (including a bunch of other parts). Looks like I'll be keeping Bessie around for a while!
New timing belt, tbelt tensioner, tbelt tensioner pulley, tbelt idler pulley, water pump, drive belt tensioner, drive belt idler pulley, drive belt, thermostat, cooling fan pulley assembly, radiator, radiator hoses, a/c condenser, and coolant.
New timing belt, tbelt tensioner, tbelt tensioner pulley, tbelt idler pulley, water pump, drive belt tensioner, drive belt idler pulley, drive belt, thermostat, cooling fan pulley assembly, radiator, radiator hoses, a/c condenser, and coolant.
verman84
New member
After a few months of not being able to roll my front drivers window all the way down (wind caught my door one day), I finally ordered a replacement door check and replaced it.
Assuming it was going to be a simple fix, I replaced it and found that I still couldn't roll my window down. I looked up into the speaker hole to see that the entire metal track had been bent/warped when the wind caught my door. The track had gotten stuck on the hook part of the door check. I had to go in and bend the track back into place which is tough because access is very limited and you can't really see what you're doing.
My window rolls up and down fine when the door is open now, but I think I still need to bend it further to do so when the door is closed. So frustrating but at least its a start.
Assuming it was going to be a simple fix, I replaced it and found that I still couldn't roll my window down. I looked up into the speaker hole to see that the entire metal track had been bent/warped when the wind caught my door. The track had gotten stuck on the hook part of the door check. I had to go in and bend the track back into place which is tough because access is very limited and you can't really see what you're doing.
My window rolls up and down fine when the door is open now, but I think I still need to bend it further to do so when the door is closed. So frustrating but at least its a start.
I cleaned the throttle body for the first time. It had accumulated quite a bit of carbon. I changed the PCV valve at the same time.
I also changed the radiator, upper & lower hoses, and the radiator cap. The radiator must have been leaking for awhile, as there is some surface rust on all of the components in the driver's side front area around the leak.
I also changed the radiator, upper & lower hoses, and the radiator cap. The radiator must have been leaking for awhile, as there is some surface rust on all of the components in the driver's side front area around the leak.
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jsmith21
New member
Sorry, I'm just now seeing this. But the one in this picture is called silver-blue, and then he has another 63 split window that is Daytona Blue, which is like a dark blue. I'm not a fan of the light silver blue color on newer cars, but I think it looks pretty decent on this 'vette. He also just sold a Nassau blue 65 convertible, which was like a more blue shade of blue, but not a dark blue, if that makes sense. He really likes his classic corvettes too if you can't tell haha.
Atlanta_man
New member
New HVAC blower motor/fan installed today. Existing unit lasted almost 4 years but yesterday the plastic squirrel cage came loose from the motor shaft and made a scary loud noise until fan was shut off. New one from O'Reilly is nice and quiet. Last one was from Autozone and always had excessive brush noise.
TrueBlue
New member
Got my winch installed
Shittybilt X20 10k, Syn
Just a question where'd you take it to have it done? I've got a potential custom seats job coming up where the brackets might need to be messed with to get them to work and was curious if where you took it would be able to do that for me?
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NinjaOne
New member
Buddy in Monroe, he has a full shop and can fab something up if needed. My bumper was pre-drilled for the winch, just needed somebody else to help because my bumper is a bear if attempting to mount alone. Shoot me a PM if interested and I'll give you his number
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flipflopnfly
New member
2007 - Center console organizer. Miller Lite cardboard 6-pack, trimmed at the bottom to allow an extension cord in from the 100W 115 AC plug, trimmed the handle. Then this Salex top tray from a 2016 Tacoma http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/239341-center-console-tray-4th-gen.html#post2717461
Powerwashed underside, Ace gloss black on the surface rust. Fixed an airbag slow leak, airline to bag was leaking, dropping about 2psi per week, pliers on the airline to get it reseated, all good.
The 2008, oh boy, 98k miles $1434 spent at a Toyota dealer. $950 on CV axles and reboot, wussed out doing them myself. $400 per axle for the boots alone, $475 with reman'd CV axles, CVJ brand. $350 for a full trans flush, 16 qts WS, $89 for alignment with SPC UCA's, four rotors resurfaced, front pads replaced.
Powerwashed underside, Ace gloss black on the surface rust. Fixed an airbag slow leak, airline to bag was leaking, dropping about 2psi per week, pliers on the airline to get it reseated, all good.
The 2008, oh boy, 98k miles $1434 spent at a Toyota dealer. $950 on CV axles and reboot, wussed out doing them myself. $400 per axle for the boots alone, $475 with reman'd CV axles, CVJ brand. $350 for a full trans flush, 16 qts WS, $89 for alignment with SPC UCA's, four rotors resurfaced, front pads replaced.
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laufer
Member
On recently acquired 2004 Limited 4WD V8:
- replaced defective license plate bulb
- installed LED interior lights (including red map light on driver's side)
- installed LED running board lights
- performed 2006+ OEM LED tail light swap
- installed smoker's kit with two 12V outlets in center console
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I spent $140 on cv axles for my 2005 sport 225k and put them on myself after watching youtube videos. The inner part of the axles were hard to get out. I could not pry them out and ended up fabricating a slide hammer out of a vice grips and threaded rod - it still was a bit of a chore.
I want to change the differential fluid but when I tried to remove the skid plate to get at it the bolts just spun and I could not see a way to get a wrench on top of a nut top hold them. Any suggestions?
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