What did you do with your 4runner today?

I went out and read my manual. It say to run at least 87 and that we'll get improved engine performance with 91. I may try a tank of 91 just to see if it makes any difference.

Most have said they get 1 mpg better with 91 vs 87...

I always run 91. Makes me feel better anyway.
 
They offer Yellowstuff and Yellowstuff Truck pads. Which one? Either way, these look the business and I'll probably order a set soon.
Yellowstuff truck. The other Yellowstuffs are intended for track/aggressive street car use. I had them on my 3000GT and they were pretty darn good.

Most have said they get 1 mpg better with 91 vs 87...

I always run 91. Makes me feel better anyway.
People have done datalogging on these and found that they idle much better and have other small improvements when running higher octane gas.

I, for one, had a HORRIBLE heatshield rattle when running 87 because my idle would fluctuate just low enough at stoplights when in gear to resonate it. Running 89 got rid of it and keeps the idle perfectly steady. Not embarrassing the hell out of myself at stoplights is a good enough reason for me to run it haha
 
hello people....been awhile. glad to see the community as strong and helpful as ever. well it was time to do some repairs and maintenance that i have been neglecting for a while now.

had a brake shudder issue that i thought was due to warped front rotor. so replaced the from rotors and pads, brake fluid flush and inspect and regreased the rear brakes. did not correct issue. did a more thorough inspection of the rear brakes and noticed one of the slide pins were stuck and had some wear. replaced rear rotors and pads, new slides and used grease made for slide pins. corrected issue, now brakes are perfect.

*** lesson learned - use the grease specifically made for slides =)

with winter coming finally changed out the rear window weather stripping. easy and inexpensive to do. got genuine OEM part from amazon $30 to the door.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DZL70VM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

lastly, fixed my airbox. a mechanic put my K&N filter upside down and force the cover and clips on. that eventually weakened the points where the clips attach to and then broke off. drilled some holes and used a zip tie to make a point where the clip can attach. worked out better than expected. not sure if its me or what, but the runner seems to be running a lot better now that the air box is completely closed, not that it was fully open just not clamped down tight.

pNN8Xc.jpg

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Ive been hearing a weird noise from the rear for a while everytime I hit a bump. It started getting louder this week. I have not been able to figure out what it is until today. Apparently my drivers side shock is missing the upper bushing.
 
Took the 4runner to a family friend to have the alignment done (cheaper to pay in beer than full price) after putting new struts in this weekend. Apparently he couldn't get the bolt to loosen on the passenger side lower control arm either. :shrug: At least it wasn't because I'm totally inept
 
Ive been hearing a weird noise from the rear for a while everytime I hit a bump. It started getting louder this week. I have not been able to figure out what it is until today. Apparently my drivers side shock is missing the upper bushing.

whats that sound like? I had a noise I assumed was the bushings.. I replaced them... noise didnt change.. found the rear sway endlinks to be slightly loose .. tightened them.. now the noise is worse. i believe the sway bushings are shot or the rear coils somehow became unseated properly. Its like a clank, rattle noise when hitting bumps.. only noticeable with windows down.
 
On another note regarding the 87 Octane vs 91/93 Octane gas debate, I was using BP 93 Octane for the past year or so after using 87 Octane since I bought the 4Runner in 2004. The higher octane gas caused my MPG to go down ~2MPG and I noticed that I didn't have as much power around 1500-2000 RPM (this could explain why the gears would shift more often when I stayed within 1500-2000 RPM). After switching back to 87 Octane, my MPG went back up, I could feel more power in the lower RPM band, less shifting between gears but also less power in the higher RPM range (not as "peppy"). I think I'll try using 89 Octane next to see if there is any other improvement in MPG or power.

These trucks are tuned for 91 octane, technically. I would definitely try 89 and see if there's much of a difference. Because of the tune for 91, the engine probably only advances timing far enough to utilize it. 93, being harder to ignite, is going to be less efficient because the engine can't properly compensate.

I, personally, have found the opposite to be true. I seem to have more power all around with higher octane (we can't get 91 here, only 93 which I consider overkil/is higher than recommendedl, so I run 89). 87 causes some funny idle issues and makes the truck feel a bit wimpier. My gas mileage seems to be abysmal no matter what I do...


I'm glad you brought this subject up...

When hurricane Irma was heading our way I stopped to fill up on Friday and with everyone doing the same all that was left was 93 octane, well when I filled up again recently I was expecting to be getting better mileage, I was surprised that I also got worse mileage then I had been getting with 85 octane, about 1.5 less MPG!!:suspicious:
 
whats that sound like? I had a noise I assumed was the bushings.. I replaced them... noise didnt change.. found the rear sway endlinks to be slightly loose .. tightened them.. now the noise is worse. i believe the sway bushings are shot or the rear coils somehow became unseated properly. Its like a clank, rattle noise when hitting bumps.. only noticeable with windows down.

Visually I was able to confirm it. I wish I took a picture. The top rubber bushing and washer were completely gone and the shock could be moved around by hand. Strangely the bolt was still there. My best guess is the mechanic that changed it before I bought the vehicle forgot the washer and the upper bushing wore out and tore. The sound was kind of like a squeal at first then became more of a clunk. I replaced my shock when I got home and took it for a test drive. Now there is no unusual sounds in my suspension.
 
Replaced my roasted factory hood with a new sport hood! I'd been wanting to do this swap since I bought my 4Runner in April. I ordered a CAPA certified hood from JC Whitney and the various scoop parts from a Toyota dealership in Florida.

Had a local body shop that has done work for us before paint and install the hood for me. I was on a bit of a budget, so I didn't have them blend it with my fenders. They still did a fantastic job matching the colors up. Not to mention, I finally have my sport hood!
 

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Replaced my roasted factory hood with a new sport hood! I'd been wanting to do this swap since I bought my 4Runner in April. I ordered a CAPA certified hood from JC Whitney and the various scoop parts from a Toyota dealership in Florida.

Had a local body shop that has done work for us before paint and install the hood for me. I was on a bit of a budget, so I didn't have them blend it with my fenders. They still did a fantastic job matching the colors up. Not to mention, I finally have my sport hood!

That is something Ive been wanting to do. How did the aftermarket hood fit? did it bolt up without any issues or does it not fit as well as the factory hood did?
 
That is something Ive been wanting to do. How did the aftermarket hood fit? did it bolt up without any issues or does it not fit as well as the factory hood did?

It bolted up with absolutely zero issue! I had read a few horror stories about the cheaper hoods not being a good fit so I opted to spend the extra on a CAPA certified one. Turned out to be the right idea! My guy Vince at Caliber Collision told me that normally the cheap replacement hoods are a total crap shoot when it comes to getting a good one. Which is why most repair shops only deal with OEM or CAPA certified parts to begin with
 
The emerging Stock++ build

This week, I took care of a few pending minor mods:
  • installed blind spot mirror on driver side
  • ordered suspension parts: Metal Tech rear air to coil conversion kit, Bilstein 5100 front and rear, slightly used coil springs from a 2016 TE (the "new FJ springs")
  • got front coilovers assembled
  • replaced original, 14yo spare with newer matching Michelin LTX M/S2
  • installed Blue Ridge Overland ceiling net
  • attached foam pipe insulation to each crossbar (using PVC pipe wrap tape) for mounting Tred 1100 traction boards with tie-down straps
  • affixed Metal Tech and Bilstein stickers ahead of the impending suspension mod
  • cut Amerimax gutter screens to fit into rear side windows as bug screens
  • installed AVS external mount VentVisors model 94924
  • made paper stencils for Reflectix window shades
Will now work on cutting the shades...
 
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New to me 2008 4R SR5 V6 4X4. In the last week, ending tonight, I have

LOF
- Did A full slide yoke rear old grease flush and redo with Mobil 1 Synth
- normal front slide yoke and spiders
Cabin A/F
Engine A/F
Replace 4 bulbs in the dash/controls
Converted to LED interior (mix of reds and whites)
Converted side markers to LED (one was out)
Dropped spare and cleaned it
R/R rear Diff oil with Valvoline 75w-90 LS
Fixed a few missing or broken body connectors and such.

Planned for next O/C is R/R transfer case and front Differential and a front slide yoke flush. Also will be adding a usb charger switch and changing head unit by christmas time.

Love the new to me 4runner. Anyone know how many miles they are getting out of the Michelin LTX M/S2's (mine are 265/65R17) My spare is a 1.5 - 2 years old and the 4 on the ground have something like 30K on them I am told (but the spare has never been rotated into the mix so it still has the nibs on it :-( )

Jeff in KC
 
This week, I took care of a few pending minor mods:
  • installed blind spot mirror on driver side
  • ordered suspension parts: Metal Tech rear air to coil conversion kit, Bilstein 5100 front and rear, slightly used coil springs from a 2016 TE (the "new FJ springs")
  • got front coilovers assembled
  • replaced original, 14yo spare with newer matching Michelin LTX M/S2
  • installed Blue Ridge Overland ceiling net
  • attached foam pipe insulation to each crossbar (using PVC pipe wrap tape) for mounting Tred 1100 traction boards with tie-down straps
  • affixed Metal Tech and Bilstein stickers ahead of the impending suspension mod
  • cut Amerimax gutter screens to fit into rear side windows as bug screens
  • installed AVS external mount VentVisors model 94924
  • made paper stencils for Reflectix window shades
Will now work on cutting the shades...


Sorry for being daft but what exactly are the 2016 TE (the "new FJ springs") you are referring to?
 
Attempted to cheat around the X-REAS system and install a Pro Comp 3" front spacer. Lines on the fronts shocks don't allow for it. Boo!
 
Rewired my Pioneers harness to get the aux outs into a accessable spot for subs later install.

Did the tpms mod to turn the light off. Check my tires monthly anyhow, so why pay to fix the steady on of a failed sensor(s) .
 

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