What did you do with your 4runner today?

It’s sorta not possible, I should Have been more specific. I swapped the wires from the blinker to the marker light. I also needed to add a resistor since the marker lights are so much smaller wattage than the blinkers.


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I guess both my marker lights are burned out, or I can't figure out how to turn them on. First time I've noticed them though.
 
It appears only the driver's side is out (The only one I really checked at first)

How embarrassing... :doh:
Don't worry, the driver's side is worse to replace unless you remove the headlight housing or the battery or have small hands. I suggest unplugging the one on the passenger side.
 
sounds like the alternator to me. could swap it out from another 4.0l if you can, or just cash out at the auto store and try not damage it when installing so you can return it.



Expenses/Trouble comes in 3's, right?

Spring on my garage door snapped in the cold. Had to put a new battery in the 4runner. And now the odd whine I was hearing the last few days has become much more pronounced.

What do you think? A pulley bearing of some sort? Started as a strange whine a few days ago but got a lot worse, quickly. Goes into the shop Friday.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiFBoxPY2_8

2005 V6 Sport with 180k miles.
 
A guy at work let me have some leftover vinyl wrap so i attempted to do my hood. Scoop came out ok but i messed up the rest of the hood and had to peel it back off. I will try again when it warms up
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also start from the center and work your way out to each four corners. you may not need a heat gun if you do it right.
also its probably easier if your hood is on your truck that way you can pull and stretch it with more force
i'd like to see how that looks when its done
 
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Just got a killer deal. $89.99 per tire from tire buyers ebay store for a set of cooper AT3s in 265/65R17. Decided to go back to the stock size. Tire buyer is advertising $50 off per set of cooper tires and someone must have made the mistake to mark the individual tires as $50 off.
 
Swapped my idler pulley bearings and the belt tensioner. The belt tensioner was such a PITA. 10/10 would not recommend. :rofl:

wrote up a little guide, here.
 
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I got my truck with 265/70/17's on it already, something pavement oriented by Yokahoma. I got my SCS wheels sitting here an looked at them and can't see myself tolerating those vanilla shitrollers so I hit Craigslist.

Got some 265/70 Goodyear Duratrac's (can't go any bigger with the aggressive offset), 5 tires, all at 90% tread with a November 2015 production date for $300! Couldn't pass it up, so now I should get my $300 back I hope selling SR5 wheels/tires mounted. I know otherwise those wheels are worth like scrap metal haha.

Finished wiring my deck, backup camera, 9-wire, RCA's an cleanly ran everything through the console. Powered up the amp's an checked everything. Just have to clearance my rear door panel's backside and assemble the console/dash and it's done.

Busy day but starting to see my vision come to life slowly.
 
I installed an AFE Pro Dry S air filter this morning before heading to work. So far I notice no difference in sound, drive ability, and power. Didn't buy it for a performance increase anyway. I got it for its ability to be cleaned and reused.
 
Rigid lights

Installed a pair of Rigid D2 lights for ditch lights. Works great. But can any one give advice on how to wire up a new Switch? The Right light wires are black, red, and red with black stripe. The new switch I got (from caliraisedled) has black, red, red, green wires. Cant find any info on how to connect the two
 
Regrease SPC UCAs

Installed the SPC 25480 UCAs around Labor Day of 2016 and greased IAW MFR specs. Fast forward to late this Fall and I start hearing a creaking/squeaking noise coming from the driver's side. With a little help from this forum, I highly suspected it was the UCAs making the noise. So...today...while we here in St Louis enjoyed a 65 degree day, I pulled them off, pushed the spacer out and found them void of any grease or, for that matter, any grease residue. Dry as a bone.

I had some Prothane super grease handy and packed it in there as much as possible. In just a few hours I had both sides done and all is quiet again! ;)

Here's a pic of the spacers after about 16 months of service. The heavily scored spacer is the one closest to the steering column. (call it the 'inboard' perhaps)
 

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also start from the center and work your way out to each four corners. you may not need a heat gun if you do it right.
also its probably easier if your hood is on your truck that way you can pull and stretch it with more force
i'd like to see how that looks when its done
Thanks! I plan on leaving it on the truck next time when i do it. Ill post back when i get time to do it

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Put a Homelink console in!

I have been looking for a good deal on a Homelink mirror or console in. I found one after all these years finally! 39.99 shipped off of eBay.

I am so excited to throw that piece of crap garage door opener in a drawer!!!

Anybody want to buy my old one?
 

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Installed a new hood release cable. Old one froze when it was under 10 degrees for a week straight. I thought it was broken but apparently it was just really stuck. So, maybe I have a spare now. For the summer, at least.
 
Installed a pair of Rigid D2 lights for ditch lights. Works great. But can any one give advice on how to wire up a new Switch? The Right light wires are black, red, and red with black stripe. The new switch I got (from caliraisedled) has black, red, red, green wires. Cant find any info on how to connect the two

The caliraisedled switch looks similar to the switches that come from CH4x4. Did you see a wire diagram on the package at all? Or color code table?

Two of the wires are used to power the LED on the switch, and two of the wires control the relay that power the lights. The switch is 4-wire so you can have the constant-on LED on the switch be controlled by an ignition source while the relay can still be controlled straight from the battery. I just tapped one of the wires powering my other switch lights to power my switch light. Hope this makes sense.

In short:
Connect the LED power to an ignition source.
Connect the LED ground to ground.
Connect the switch supply wire to the battery or an ignition source (your choice). (I think the red wire on your rigid harness is most likely the battery wire, but I can't say for sure without seeing your harness diagram.)
Connect other switch wire to the relay input wire (I think the red/black one is this one, but again, can't say for sure without seeing your harness diagram.)
 

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