What did you do with your 4runner today?

[AuSeeker]

So, for the rear hatch, you only replaced #3, and not #2? Mine all seem to be in pretty good shape, but the bottom corner, especially on the right, does not stay together properly. It’s almost like the run channel (part #2) has shrunk or something, because the side seems like it needs to be stretched downward to engage the bottom section better. I’ve considered replacing it just for that reason, but both pieces are around $137 without shipping. What bums me out is that they are in excellent physical condition for the age, other than that fit at the corner(s).

I was only posting the part numbers for what most replace, I agree that #2 might be considered for replacement, mine is also shrunk and not meeting the belt strip as it should, but it's a more of a pain to replace because the glass has to be remove to do so since it is the channel the glass runs in.

 

[Terminator03]

I was only posting the part numbers for what most replace, I agree that #2 might be considered for replacement, mine is also shrunk and not meeting the belt strip as it should, but it's a more of a pain to replace because the glass has to be remove to do so since it is the channel the glass runs in.

Oh, that sounds like a lot of work. I think I may try some black weatherstrip adhesive initially to see if I can get the gap to stay closed for now. I have nothing to lose by trying that first, then if it didn’t work I could move on to do the whole seal.

 

[Bigshankhank]

I have been between projects at work the last few days so I had time to put all 4 corners on stands then proceed to clean and grease everything underneath, changed the engine oil, filter and air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the pads on all four wheels. Flushed new DOT3 through the system (glad I searched for the technique here, using the pump for the rear is way easier than the old fashioned method) and cleaned the wheels inside and out and rotated them. This weekend I plan to replace the plugs, serpentine belt and possibly flush the radiator and change the oil on both diffs. All this for the 200k service. I still need to replace the CV joints which I have sitting in a box for the last six months but if I do that I would also love to do the shocks with a small lift as they are pretty well worn out and go ahead and replace the front bearings since it will all be apart anyway and at that mileage it seems like good peace of mind. So that will wait a little longer.

 

[tommyjay17]

After-work meditation

Replaced a cracked rear reflector, cleaned the MAF sensor, and added an awning:

<a href="https://ibb.co/f3jNn8"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/hi3tuo/IMG_7948.jpg" alt="IMG_7948" border="0"></a>

<a href="https://ibb.co/dHZBfT"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/iZweZo/IMG_7946.jpg" alt="IMG_7946" border="0"></a>

Oh and a couple cold ones :cheers:

 

[matt922]

Did a few drain and refills on the trans. 85k miles and the fluid looked like coca-cola. Fortunately it still smelled like ATF, but appeared well past its life in my opinion. I did ~3 drain and refills to return it to some state of normalcy. I used a $5 1 gallon pump sprayer from walmart to fill and some clear 3/8" tubing on the wand .

Usually people have this complicated method to determine trans temp fluid for assuring the correct fill level. The truck will tell you if it is between 97-115F apparently, but i just used an infrared temp gun on the trans oil cooler and the pan. I already had it and it made perfect sense to me.

Unfortunately I have no idea if our truck was used to tow in the first 62k miles, but it was bone stock and the only thing we have done is drive it with +1 size tires. Would highly recommend doing a drain/refill with every or every other oil change. I used maxlife ATF, but again my choice, you could use WS if you aren't comfortable with that.

Old fluid:

My apparatus:

 

[CJFONNER]

Did a few drain and refills on the trans. 85k miles and the fluid looked like coca-cola. Fortunately it still smelled like ATF, but appeared well past its life in my opinion. I did ~3 drain and refills to return it to some state of normalcy. I used a $5 1 gallon pump sprayer from walmart to fill and some clear 3/8" tubing on the wand .



Usually people have this complicated method to determine trans temp fluid for assuring the correct fill level. The truck will tell you if it is between 97-115F apparently, but i just used an infrared temp gun on the trans oil cooler and the pan. I already had it and it made perfect sense to me.



Unfortunately I have no idea if our truck was used to tow in the first 62k miles, but it was bone stock and the only thing we have done is drive it with +1 size tires. Would highly recommend doing a drain/refill with every or every other oil change. I used maxlife ATF, but again my choice, you could use WS if you aren't comfortable with that.



Old fluid:

My apparatus:

GREAT idea with the pump sprayer! Every time I think about having to refill tranny or diffs my arms get tired. Used the old manual pumps in the past - now have a much better method to try next time. Thanks!


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[woodman60]

Usually people have this complicated method to determine trans temp fluid for assuring the correct fill level. The truck will tell you if it is between 97-115F apparently, but i just used an infrared temp gun on the trans oil cooler and the pan. I already had it and it made perfect sense to me.

I have seen several threads that suggest pan temp is not a good indicator of fluid temp for this purpose. No personal experience. I just refill what I took out, but at some point need to actually check the level with the overflow plug.

 

[matt922]

I have seen several threads that suggest pan temp is not a good indicator of fluid temp for this purpose. No personal experience. I just refill what I took out, but at some point need to actually check the level with the overflow plug.

I'm not entirely surprised, but there are so many threads on it, especially on the tacoma forum, it is so much to read through.

Pan temp + temp of cooler were both 105-108, so it was at/slightly above body temp. Ambient was already 90 degrees so it wasn't far off from the start. So far so good after about 100 miles.

 

[cloud]

Apparently it's transmission fluid day.

Today I changed my oil and filter. Then I did a 12qt flush of tranny fluid (wrong, according to the forums but it worked). Then I realized I'm too drunk and it's too hot to do the coolant. Some joker put prestone in the radiator.

182k miles and it shifts so clean! Now I have to wait a couple days to check the level. (Because I just dumped 12qts down the dipstick tube)

I also swapped duratrash Chinesium CV axles for a set from CVJ. I joined the red boot club you guys!!!

Now who in the Midwest wants to weld these rock sliders on? 4X innovations is a godsend. $200 for Dom tubing? Yes prease.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

 

[NinjaOne]

Midweek wheeling and camping

 

[cloud]

You're buying new hubs of you want to swap bearings. Unless you have a press, or a shop that is willing to help. It seems like mechanics don't know what they used to or just aren't willing to do the "unusual" jobs that save us money.

I had a hell of a time finding someone to press my Toyota bushings in my original control arms. I'll spend the money for Toyota parts, but not if they aren't broken.

I'm not an experienced welder, but I've sewn a frame back together before with a mig. I'm afraid to do my sliders myself but the local exhaust shops would rather twiddle their thumbs than take an easy job.

I have been between projects at work the last few days so I had time to put all 4 corners on stands then proceed to clean and grease everything underneath, changed the engine oil, filter and air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the pads on all four wheels. Flushed new DOT3 through the system (glad I searched for the technique here, using the pump for the rear is way easier than the old fashioned method) and cleaned the wheels inside and out and rotated them. This weekend I plan to replace the plugs, serpentine belt and possibly flush the radiator and change the oil on both diffs. All this for the 200k service. I still need to replace the CV joints which I have sitting in a box for the last six months but if I do that I would also love to do the shocks with a small lift as they are pretty well worn out and go ahead and replace the front bearings since it will all be apart anyway and at that mileage it seems like good peace of mind. So that will wait a little longer.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

 

[Bigshankhank]

You're buying new hubs of you want to swap bearings. Unless you have a press, or a shop that is willing to help. It seems like mechanics don't know what they used to or just aren't willing to do the "unusual" jobs that save us money.

I had a hell of a time finding someone to press my Toyota bushings in my original control arms. I'll spend the money for Toyota parts, but not if they aren't broken.

I'm not an experienced welder, but I've sewn a frame back together before with a mig. I'm afraid to do my sliders myself but the local exhaust shops would rather twiddle their thumbs than take an easy job.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

I had planned on getting a new set of hubs from JerseyBuilt, so yeah it’s all part of a process. Though this leads me to want to do bearings on all four corners which from what I have read will require finding someone to press out the bearings on the rear axles, which I have looked around and found no one willing to do it. As this is my daily driver, it would need to be a one day in-and-out job, not something I can ship them off and get back a few weeks later.

 

[Smokeshow69]

I had planned on getting a new set of hubs from JerseyBuilt, so yeah it’s all part of a process. Though this leads me to want to do bearings on all four corners which from what I have read will require finding someone to press out the bearings on the rear axles, which I have looked around and found no one willing to do it. As this is my daily driver, it would need to be a one day in-and-out job, not something I can ship them off and get back a few weeks later.

FYI - Napa sells a complete hub unit made by doorman. They also can get complete koyo hub units as well. This would eliminate the need to press bearings and is a plug and play unit! No need for shipping [emoji16]


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[woodman60]

rear sway bar bushings

Finally finished the job. Sway bar bushings (greasable Prothane) went in a few weeks ago. End links with Energy Suspension bushings went in today. If you do these, I have the following suggestions:

1. Don't do just the bushings. Be prepared with new end links as they may need to be cut out and the seals may be shot anyway.
2. Lift the car and pull the wheels. I did it without, but there's not a lot of room to work. Might have been quicker overall to pull the wheels and put them back.

 

[James720]

Went and got a little exhaust work done, then came home and stripped the front suspension off for replacement and lift. Also checked all the ball joints and rod ends. Everything looked great. Tore out the XREAs stuff, what a mess.

 

[laufer]

Tied up a few more loose ends from the Kenwood head unit and front camera install:

• made washers from the bottoms of ice cream jars (polypropylene - plastic #4) and added them to the hood insulation mat retainers; the mat had become torn around two of the retainers when I routed the front camera cable behind it (see images below)
• properly grounded the front camera switch using a ring terminal
• improved ProClip mount 853221 installation by first unbolting and pulling out the climate control panel; this avoids the unsightly gap between the panel and the silver bezel
• installed NTTA (North Texas) toll tag--interoperable with OK and KS but requires the lowest deposit--so I can drive cashless from Chicago to the southwest

IMG_20180629_122743

Today, Monday, I tied up a few remaining loose ends from Saturday's Kenwood mechless head unit install:

• installed wired front camera [...] routing the cable behind the hood mat
• ...

IMG_20180521_134246

 

[yotaguy674]

Watched it get older...

 

[mjotrainbrain]

Did lots of little maintenance, like remove a whole forest from the cabin air filter! Previous owner must have never changed it since Toyota put it in 15 years ago, disgusting. Also went to the junkyard, but hardly found anything unfortunately. On the plus side I got a start on undercoating the chassis with POR15.

 

[hgill]

Replaced a very slow leaking radiator.

 

[AuSeeker]

Replaced a very slow leaking radiator.

Is that the denso from RockAuto?

Does it look to be the same quality as the OEM?