What did you do with your 4runner today?

How are you liking the new key so far? Debating between that and just getting an AJT Design fob.

Finally got a switchblade keyfob. Much more streamlined than carrying the stock fob and key combo.

[MENTION=218002]nuron[/MENTION] - I have that same keyfob. It's been working pretty well for me the past 5 months. Hopefully it holds up. The only thing I don't like is that there is no window down logo, just that trunk opening logo.
[MENTION=169058]0verland[/MENTION] - you should try it out. Combo key works great and the tactile buttons are much better than the rubber buttons on the Audi style key fob.
[MENTION=114745]YetiX[/MENTION] - You're right but I think its nice having it in one combo unit. The weight is almost negligible with this style keyfob but if that were a concern, I still have my single key I got when I bought the car. I don't have a factory fob though, mine never came with it. I do plan on just setting up a smart key setup so I won't have to even insert the key. System unlocks and locks via proximity sensor and the starter button will cover up the key start hole.
 
[MENTION=218002]nuron[/MENTION] - I have that same keyfob. It's been working pretty well for me the past 5 months. Hopefully it holds up. The only thing I don't like is that there is no window down logo, just that trunk opening logo.

[MENTION=169058]0verland[/MENTION] - you should try it out. Combo key works great and the tactile buttons are much better than the rubber buttons on the Audi style key fob.

[MENTION=114745]YetiX[/MENTION] - You're right but I think its nice having it in one combo unit. The weight is almost negligible with this style keyfob but if that were a concern, I still have my single key I got when I bought the car. I don't have a factory fob though, mine never came with it. I do plan on just setting up a smart key setup so I won't have to even insert the key. System unlocks and locks via proximity sensor and the starter button will cover up the key start hole.

I know you mentioned it not having the window down logo, but does that trunk button still operate the rear window the same way? I don’t use that feature very often, but it is still nice to have. My biggest problem with the stock key fob is that I’m constantly having it activate in my pocket while I’m at work if I squat down, or lean against something (construction/renovation work). Having less in my pocket would be a nice feature too since I don’t have any other keys attached so the streamlined hidden key is very appealing. Do the buttons accidentally press as easily as the stock fob? If they do, then maybe the AJT one would be better for me as the buttons seem a bit more recessed and protected.
 
Said farewell to my X-REAS after 149,385 miles (54K of that since I bought it). Swapped in Bilstein 4600s & front springs from a ‘15 Taco TRD Offroad + rear FJ springs. More to come later on the new setup.

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I know you mentioned it not having the window down logo, but does that trunk button still operate the rear window the same way? I don’t use that feature very often, but it is still nice to have. My biggest problem with the stock key fob is that I’m constantly having it activate in my pocket while I’m at work if I squat down, or lean against something (construction/renovation work). Having less in my pocket would be a nice feature too since I don’t have any other keys attached so the streamlined hidden key is very appealing. Do the buttons accidentally press as easily as the stock fob? If they do, then maybe the AJT one would be better for me as the buttons seem a bit more recessed and protected.


Yeah the trunk open is the button that opens the window. I’ve never had it activate by accident. The button press takes long enough that you can’t just activate it by a light press like locking n unlocking the door.


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Replaced my headlights. Old ones were filling with water every times it rained. The new ones are so much brighter!!

There should be a special place in hell for the Toyota engineer who thought it was a good idea to hide the fourth bolt inside the bumper. F that guy.

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Replaced my gauge glass ( acrylic )

Now & Then.....
 

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Hey! Nice idea to replace it. Mine is a bit scratched and it's a pet peeve of mine. Where did you order a replacement?

My response was apparently lost in the hack. The part fitting 2006-09 4Runners is called the Cluster Lens (P/N 83852-35E50) and Conicelli Toyota offers it for $26.50.

I'm going to try adding some kind of screen protector material before installation to prevent scratches going forward.
 
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Here's more on last week's X-REAS removal. The difference in ride quality is night and day. Again, I thought it was still working as designed b/c the truck handled well and nothing was leaking, but the ride was pretty harsh. Much, much smoother now and it handles better too. Bonus: the new front struts added about 1.5" of height at the fenders and 2" at the front lower skid plate (right under the bumper) that leveled out the rake nicely even with the .25" the rear springs added.

Here's the new setup:
Bilstein 4600 shocks and front springs from a '15 Tacoma TRD Offroad ($130 from local Craigslist)
2007 FJ rear springs ($70 shipped from a FJ Cruiser forum)

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Also needed a 22mm wrench to disconnect the X-REAS fittings at the appropriate place (not at the shock!) so that was $7 at Home Depot.

I bought new top mount nuts and lower bolts, washers, and nuts from Toyota for $42 including tax but returned it all as my original hardware all worked with the new gear.

Scrapped the old springs and shocks at a local yard and they gave me $4.20 for them. Woo!

Before
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After
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Happy to answer any questions, and I also put together a set of PDFs from the Factory Service Manual that provide a lot of useful info including torque specs, directions for removal of the entire system or shocks only, and so on. As with anything, this is for reference only and it's your responsibility to use whatever is helpful to you in a safe manner. Here's what is included:

stfoN2Ql.jpg


Member [MENTION=279296]jcaino[/MENTION] thoughtfully linked the files on his website so you can get them there or PM me your email address to receive a zipped folder.
 
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I was originally thinking about doing a big 3 upgrade for the runner but after looking at where the hot wire for the alternator came from I decided against that so I ended up replacing the battery to ground wire with 1 gauge and replacing the terminals with marine terminals as well as putting new connections on the wiring from the car
I bought all my parts at tractor supply. So far it seems to have made a difference in idle voltage in the battery which has bumped from 12.6 to 13.4 at idle


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Had a busy day....

2 new keys cut & 2 new fobs programmed
pulled out the factory nav and installed a sony avh-2300nex
added backup cam (license plate bracket mount)
fresh battery
weathertech mats
led license plate lights
 
After
tjytj8hl.jpg


Happy to answer any questions, and I also put together a set of PDFs from the Factory Service Manual that provide a lot of useful info including torque specs, directions for removal of the entire system or shocks only, and so on. As with anything, this is for reference only and it's your responsibility to use whatever is helpful to you in a safe manner. Here's what is included:

This height is pretty much exactly what I want, nothing too crazy, just a slight lift and a more comfortable ride.

I'm now beginning my search for newer front struts and a set of FJ Springs!
 
HOLY SMOKES!! Looks like you’re in a parking garage - I’d be looking toward the ceiling because something HAD to fall on your truck to make a ding like that. Maybe security cameras caught it?


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Nah, that's a vindictive door opener. Someone was pissed and slammed their door open.

None the less that sucks:hurt:
 
Nah, that's a vindictive door opener. Someone was pissed and slammed their door open.

None the less that sucks:hurt:

Negative, that's a vertical scrape. Note the way the paint is flaking and the lack of indent in the plastic. I've seen similar damage from an errant forklift blade.
 

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