What did you do with your 4runner today?

I’d like to add a 120v Ac input in the rear area of my runner as well as add lighting with a switch. What would be the best way to make this happen. Tap into an existing power wire or run a new cable.

At what point should you add an extra battery.

I bought an audio system today waiting for it to get here!!

Depends how much wattage you need on the 120v AC plug. Depending on the inverter capacity you may need to run a sizable wire back there and possibly another battery. As for the lighting, does your model have a hatch light back there? If so you can run another light off that power wire. If you use an LED it will not draw much on the battery.
 
Been driving around for a while without any sway bars but felt like it leaned too much in turns. Re-installed the rear sway bar and its LOADS better. Got the ol CRX auto cross setup now, it might even oversteer a little since the rear bar makes the front dig in more (steers better). And the ride isn't that much worse than it was without any bars at all. The heavy front bar contributed to a lot of the harshness.
 
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Let's see...found a dead battery on the 4Runner this morning :( Also ordered front hood lift struts and researching how to replace hood relate cable and latch.
 
Let's see...found a dead battery on the 4Runner this morning :( Also ordered front hood lift struts and researching how to replace hood relate cable and latch.
Did the piece you push in to lift the hood break? I ran into that a few months ago and it was a pretty easy $5 fix once I found the part number on here.
 
Did the piece you push in to lift the hood break? I ran into that a few months ago and it was a pretty easy $5 fix once I found the part number on here.

They didn't break, they just lost charge. I'm surprised they've lasted 16 years without being replaced.
 
Can you get it tight and also down to 2-L without contact?




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Yes, thanks to [MENTION=112299]Formidable[/MENTION] suggestion on a thread I put two M8 nuts and a rubber washer before the knob and it sits and tracks perfect. Look up his history you’ll see the post. You do have to pry off the bottom of the knob before install but it’s easy. Just use something plastic to do the prying and it’ll be fine.

Edit: this thread
TRD Pro Shift Knob Installed
TRD Pro Shift Knob Installed - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum


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Depends how much wattage you need on the 120v AC plug. Depending on the inverter capacity you may need to run a sizable wire back there and possibly another battery. As for the lighting, does your model have a hatch light back there? If so you can run another light off that power wire. If you use an LED it will not draw much on the battery.


I have a dome light in the back near the hatch but no hatch light.
IÂ’d like be able to use that plug to charge my power drill and plug in my Dremel tool. Maybe low powered kitchen equipment.

Is anyone familiar with the rear hatch not opening issue. IÂ’ve figured out how to open and close it manually. And the motor in the door stabilizes the hatch door closed. So IÂ’m thinking the button has to be the reason the door does not open, since the motor does run to latch the door closed.

I do not hear the motor at all when I press the hatch button from the outside. Can anyone help me out here with their input.
 
AFE intake for the 4.7L V8 with custom acrylic TRD etched cover installed.
 

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Installed my Light bar

A buddy of mine sent me a light bar off amazon for my new 4r.... Finally got around to installing it/Users/gianlucafiore/Downloads/IMG_5771.HEIC
/Users/gianlucafiore/Downloads/IMG_5772.HEIC
 
I have a dome light in the back near the hatch but no hatch light.
IÂ’d like be able to use that plug to charge my power drill and plug in my Dremel tool. Maybe low powered kitchen equipment.

Is anyone familiar with the rear hatch not opening issue. IÂ’ve figured out how to open and close it manually. And the motor in the door stabilizes the hatch door closed. So IÂ’m thinking the button has to be the reason the door does not open, since the motor does run to latch the door closed.

I do not hear the motor at all when I press the hatch button from the outside. Can anyone help me out here with their input.

On my runner I can manually turn on that light in the back so power is there at least for my model. Usually the switches for the lights work by grounding one side of the bulb so again power should be there for an extra light.

As for running anything with a motor, that will take a sizable inverter as the startup and full load current is pretty high. Just a guess but a 500watt inverter may be enough for a drill but you may need 1000 watt. If you are only running things sporadically you shouldn't need an extra battery but if running quite a bit then that inverter will kill the battery in a few hours.

As for the door, there's tons of posts on door issues. Usually has to do with the latch assembly and all the switches in it. Currently I have a pair of relays powered by a double throw switch so I can run the motor to manually open the door on my truck as it does not latch on it's own. Good enough for now.

One more thing, you'll get more replies if you create your own thread with your questions as this one is pretty generic and more for fun.
 

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