What did you do with your 4runner today?

I know we're joking a little here, but...

Have you ever wanted to pull up closer to a parking spot or into your garage but just had to trust your instincts on how close you were? Ever wanted to make sure you weren't about to high-center on a rock or were on the correct line on a trail? Going steep uphill and following a dirt path means next to zero forward visibility because your windshield only shows you the sky.

The new Jeep Rubicons come with a front-facing trail camera from the factory. Visibility is visibility.


Great examples!

Here’s a video that explains it well.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyDHvRH4jw0&feature=youtu.be


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Hey guys, I just started using this forum and I had a couple questions. I just bought a 2004 SR5 2WD V6. I was just wondering how difficult it was to swap the 4.7 v8 into it. I have a wrecked 2007 V8 4WD (so I have the engine, ecu, and any other parts I might need). My dad and I will be doing the swap ourselves. That being said, here are my questions.

1. Besides the engine itself, what will I need to swap over from the V8?

2. Will the 2WD transmission from the V6 bolt up the the V8?

3. If I have to use the transmission from the V8, can I remove the front driveshafts until I can do the full 4WD conversion?

Like I said, I already have the parts to swap. I just don't know what my options are or which route to take. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated!
Welcome to the forum!

I believe the 2WD to 4WD swap is not worth the time or money investment - search for some previous threads as I gave this some thought also. The 4WD electronics are completely different. Even though you may have all the parts, it'll be an incredible amount of work getting that all swapped out. Is it intended to be a "fun" project?

With that being said, I don't think that the 4 speed V6 transmissions bolt up to the V8. I think Toyota standardized 5 speed in 2005 for the V6.

Edit: This thread has some links for 4WD conversion 2WD to 4WD Conversion

You need the A750F transmission - probably need to use the one off the wrecked truck, if you intend to do the full 4WD conversion.
 
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Hey guys, I just started using this forum and I had a couple questions. I just bought a 2004 SR5 2WD V6. I was just wondering how difficult it was to swap the 4.7 v8 into it. I have a wrecked 2007 V8 4WD (so I have the engine, ecu, and any other parts I might need). My dad and I will be doing the swap ourselves. That being said, here are my questions.

1. Besides the engine itself, what will I need to swap over from the V8?

2. Will the 2WD transmission from the V6 bolt up the the V8?

3. If I have to use the transmission from the V8, can I remove the front driveshafts until I can do the full 4WD conversion?

Like I said, I already have the parts to swap. I just don't know what my options are or which route to take. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated!

Why not just sell your V6 and buy a V8? They aren't any different in price for the most part on the used market.
 
I know we're joking a little here, but...

Have you ever wanted to pull up closer to a parking spot or into your garage but just had to trust your instincts on how close you were? Ever wanted to make sure you weren't about to high-center on a rock or were on the correct line on a trail? Going steep uphill and following a dirt path means next to zero forward visibility because your windshield only shows you the sky.

The new Jeep Rubicons come with a front-facing trail camera from the factory. Visibility is visibility.

that makes a little sense
 
Why not just sell your V6 and buy a V8? They aren't any different in price for the most part on the used market.

2WD to 4WD is a pretty significant difference, though, especially low miles.

Low mile V8s are getting hard to find. Many are high priced.

Probably shouldn't go too off topic - sorry.

Not that I don't advocate for doing exactly that if you're only aiming for the vehicle as the end result... It will be cheaper...
If you're going in for the project by all means give it a shot, I guess.
 
Gunmetal TRD wheels ordered :rockon:

With 228k on the odo I think I might have committed to buying another one in the future...
 
2WD to 4WD is a pretty significant difference, though, especially low miles.

Low mile V8s are getting hard to find. Many are high priced.

Probably shouldn't go too off topic - sorry.

Not that I don't advocate for doing exactly that if you're only aiming for the vehicle as the end result... It will be cheaper...
If you're going in for the project by all means give it a shot, I guess.

I bought this new 2wd because it was only a grand. It died while the lady was driving it and she never looked into fixing it. I don’t absolutely have to swap in the V8, but I was wondering how tough it would be if I wasn’t able to repair the V6.
 
I'll put together a write up after I drive it for a bit and can give feedback on the changes.

All electrical connections are the same, no changes there at all. Vacuum connections are also the same, just moved a little. There are 2 extra vacuum ports that need to be plugged tho.

Valve covers and intake are pretty easy to do, just takes a little time and patience. Pull the intake before you pull the valve covers tho, keeps crap from falling onto the valves. Make sure you have new gaskets on hand before you do anything. Don't reuse the old gaskets, you will have leaks.

Got it all buttoned up this evening. Runs great but I haven't driven it yet. Found a small coolant leak at the back of the engine coming from the coolant by-pass manifold. New manifold on order so the truck remains down until that is repaired. Hopefully next weekend depending on how long it takes for the parts to arrive. I'm going to drain some coolant and start pulling the intake back off so I can replace that by-pass manifold. No way around it unfortunately.

20200315_175529-X4.jpg

Pulled the intake back off last night. Pretty quick and easy with the lighter, plastic manifold.

Pulled the coolant bypass manifold and the starter tonight. Took the starter apart to replace the plunger and contacts, the kit I got is the wrong one. Started taking the motor end apart and realizedc I really don't want to **** with replacing the brush holder. Also the breather hoses broke off it and the rubber cover over the passenger side wire lug was rock hard and all broke off while I was pulling the starter. Can't replace those parts individually, no parts for them. New starter is $107 + $60 core + 25 shipping, so just shy of $200 shipped. It's on order now from McGeorge and I asked them to cancel the $77 brush holder order.

20200317_200533-X4.jpg


20200317_200518-X4.jpg


The bypass manifold is in the front there. The vertical tube is what was leaking.

20200317_200718-X4.jpg


Broken off rubber bits from the old starter. It was working fine but I wanted to freshen it up with the new plunger and brushes. Waste of time and effort turns out. It's about the same price to order a new starter and send the core back for the $60 refund.

20200317_200638-X4.jpg
 
I bought this new 2wd because it was only a grand. It died while the lady was driving it and she never looked into fixing it. I don’t absolutely have to swap in the V8, but I was wondering how tough it would be if I wasn’t able to repair the V6.

Hmm, that's interesting. You'd probably still be better off repairing/replacing the v6 and getting another v8. I assume the v8 you have is not repairable?
 
Well I am self quarantined at my shop. Yesterday I decided it was time to do all the brake lines and rear inner hoses. The job went well. I used about 30 feet of copper nickel line. The only really difficult part was getting the rear inner hoses replaced. The upper bracket bolt was toast and I couldn't get it out. I was forced to get the hoses out of the brackets with it up in the car. The clips were rusted in such a way that it was all basically one fused piece. I was able to get them out eventually with some cursing, wiggling, and prying with a flathead screwdriver. I am so happy to have this job done and now I don't have to worry about a brake line going out!

Tips for those considering doing this job.

1) Make a plug out of one of the old fittings to plug the master cylinder when you need to disconnect the line. This will keep the master from going low on fluid while you work.

2) The master cylinder is labeled. The line coming out of the front are for the front brakes and are labeled L and R. The lines coming out of the side are for the rear and are labeled L and R as well. (I didn't see this right away and was working on one line at a time to ensure I didn't make a mistake which would mess up ABS etc...)

3) make sure you're able to crack your bleeder screws before you start. To make this a one man job like I did get speed bleeders and replace them before you begin to make sure you are able to bleed the brakes when you're done. If you can't you're going to need to replaced the calipers or drill and tap new bleeders.

4) If you're replacing the hoses get new clips, my hoses did not come with them and I had to improvise for now with cable ties.
 

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Got my LFD hybrid front for the 06-09 and the install was cake. Winch will have to wait a month or two since I stumbled across a rear axle seal leak.

T1s6zVc.jpg

WRfqI2x.jpg


Thanks [MENTION=91393]papabeach[/MENTION] for letting me use your garage and tools!
 
Well I am self quarantined at my shop. Yesterday I decided it was time to do all the brake lines and rear inner hoses. The job went well. I used about 30 feet of copper nickel line.

Tips for those considering doing this job.

2) The master cylinder is labeled. The line coming out of the front are for the front brakes and are labeled L and R. The lines coming out of the side are for the rear and are labeled L and R as well. (I didn't see this right away and was working on one line at a time to ensure I didn't make a mistake which would mess up ABS etc...)

I replaced all of mine last year because they were all toast. Love that copper nickel line, so easy to work with. I'll never go back to the ones you buy at the parts store. Wish I knew about #2 above. :-)

The new lines look good!
 
It’s been a hectic week. I’m in public health emergency preparedness & response so the Silver Beast has been doing stuff like delivering Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) to first responders and moving supply caches to our specimen collection site.

fMCN377l.jpg


jlVb4zdl.jpg


UYVgIShl.jpg
 
Is the starter really in the Valley?

Yeah, on the V8/2uz-fe it is. Pic of the old starter still installed. I should have the new one delivered tomorrow sometime.

20200315_125011-X4.jpg


New bypass manifold came in today. Old one that I butchered and leaks in the back.

20200320_145259-X4.jpg


Easier to install the starter before installing the bypass manifold so it waits for now.
 
Yeah, on the V8/2uz-fe it is. Pic of the old starter still installed. I should have the new one delivered tomorrow sometime.

20200315_125011-X4.jpg


New bypass manifold came in today. Old one that I butchered and leaks in the back.

20200320_145259-X4.jpg


Easier to install the starter before installing the bypass manifold so it waits for now.

I feel sorta responsible for your starter woes for suggesting you service your old starter, sorry, you would of been better off following the old adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it"!

On the other hand you won't have to worry about the starter for quite awhile.
 
I replaced all of mine last year because they were all toast. Love that copper nickel line, so easy to work with. I'll never go back to the ones you buy at the parts store. Wish I knew about #2 above. :-)

The new lines look good!

Thanks. We New Englanders have it rough . Cheers
 

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