What did you do with your 4runner today?

URD Y-Pipe and Gibson Stainless Exhaust

I did a complete overhaul on my exhaust this weekend. It turned out that my tail pipe rotting off was really the least of my worries. The stock Y-pipe on our trucks is a two piece design and they meet right before they join to the head pipe. Well that connection was completely shot, and not only that, but the connection from the Y-pipe to the head pipe was also completely shot. I quickly realized my problem would not be solved with just a muffler and tail pipe and I would need from the Y-pipe back.

So, I bought a URD Y-pipe :cool: and bought some new O2 sensors because there was no way I was spending the time to remove the likely stock sensors.

To make everything bolt-in I went with a Gibson exhaust since it included the headpipe, muffler, and tailpipe and it was on sale for the 4th. I just had to pick up a donut gasket for the Y-pipe>headpipe connection and some M10-1.25 nuts for the header studs and I was ready to install.

The week prior I had been dousing the studs and nuts on the old Y-pipe in penetrating fluid to hopefully make them come off without too much effort. Surprisingly, they all were in relatively decent condition which is why I even felt confident buying all this hardware in the first place. They still needed some persuasion from the torch but they came off in one piece and no drilling :pray2:. The rotted connection on the old Y-pipe actually completely gave out with the impact driver hits while removing the nuts which actually made the removal a bit easier. The only modification I had to do was bash the hanger on the driver sider cat with a hammer so it would fit through the frame. No cutting needed. With the old exhaust out I could fully assess the damage;
2 leaks coming from Header>Y-Pipe connection. Gasket decimated both sides.
1 Leak from Y-Pipe>Y-Pipe connection. Flange rotted, gasket decimated.
1 Leak from Y-Pipe>Headpipe. Donut gasket nonexistent
4 Leaks (Holes, rot) in down pipe to muffler.
------------------------
8 reasons my exhaust sounded like someone blowing a raspberry :doh:

The URD Y-Pipe went in super easy and so did the Gibson exhaust. It's a bit fiddly installing any exhaust just keeping everything loose enough to get it aligned and everything but it only took maybe an hour of adjusting to get it right. I kept the tailpipe off at first to paint it black so I did the first start while it was just an axle dump. I was not expecting it to sound so rowdy, it absolutely screamed! What better way to let the neighbors know you have a new exhaust, right?

Once the tailpipe was painted and installed I took it for a drive and it's insane what a difference it made. The strangest part is both how much quieter it is inside the cab and how much louder it is outside and especially behind the truck. The Gibson muffler is really tame and drivable when you're in gear and at speed but has that typical deep guttural work truck sound when you get on it. Especially when making a turn or just from a stop it really makes some noise. But once you're cruising, it just amazes me how much quieter it is than what I've been dealing with before. I really had nothing to compare it to so I just thought the 4Runner had a super loud engine because that's really the only thing that seemed like it made noise before. Now I hardly hear the engine at all, all the sound is coming out the back.

I love the sound though. I was planning on swapping out the Gibson muffler for the Flowmaster Super 10 and Aero Resonator I bought but I don't think I need it anymore aggressive. The Gibson is nice and refined and makes the 4Runner sound like a real truck now. I can't return the Super 10 or Aero Resonator because I painted them so if anyone wants them, send me a message and we'll work something out. I don't want them just sitting around.

I'm going to fabricate a side exit for my tailpipe using some of the extra tubing Gibson sent me so when I do that I'll take some more detailed photos of the installed hardware. Right now my exhaust tips sticks out like 1-2" too far so that's my motivation to get that finished.

To end off, I'm also waiting on a MAF recalibration chip from URD tuned for my aFe intake and exhaust so I can reap the full benefits and performance of my new parts.
I'm hoping for a decent increase in fuel efficiency too as it should lean out the fuel mixture with the added air the intake is bringing in.

While it was more expensive and involved than I was hoping... I have to say this is worthy of being in my top 5 favorite mods I've done to my 4Runner simply because of how much of an improvement was actually made. I'll post more photos when I install the URD MAF cal but you can at least see the old vs the new and how the exhaust tip currently sits (not horrible but meh)

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Cleaned my throttle body after 3 years and ~70K miles. It was much dirtier than I remember from the last couple of times. The first time I did it, I broke one of the 4 bolts while torquing it to the stated specs. The second time, I set the torque wrench to 12 ft/lbs instead of 15 but as noted here, it again felt like too much. So this time, I was being very gentle in snugging them down - no torque wrench, just 1/4 turn past finger tight - and still heard the dreaded "SCHRINNK!" noise on the last one. Unscrewed the bolt and found this. Very glad it didn't break entirely.

sDJFpX7l.jpg


P/N for anyone wanting to buy these is 90105A0080, which supersedes the original 91551-80650. Hoping the new p/n means they've strengthened the bolts. I'm changing all of them out in hopes of avoiding this the next time.
 
Cleaned my throttle body after 3 years and ~70K miles. It was much dirtier than I remember from the last couple of times. The first time I did it, I broke one of the 4 bolts while torquing it to the stated specs. The second time, I set the torque wrench to 12 ft/lbs instead of 15 but as noted here, it again felt like too much. So this time, I was being very gentle in snugging them down - no torque wrench, just 1/4 turn past finger tight - and still heard the dreaded "SCHRINNK!" noise on the last one. Unscrewed the bolt and found this. Very glad it didn't break entirely.

sDJFpX7l.jpg


P/N for anyone wanting to buy these is 90105A0080, which supersedes the original 91551-80650. Hoping the new p/n means they've strengthened the bolts. I'm changing all of them out in hopes of avoiding this the next time.

yo relax HULK! haha
 
Finally got around to installing my X2 Power G31M. I've had it hooked up to my battery maintainer for months but just ordered the parts.

I need to add to my current Big 3 and redo some factory wiring but took the easy route for now and bought some 3/8" threaded terminals to accommodate the existing factory connections...worked great.

My main concern (other than potentially cracked fenders) is the huge potential for shorts with the gigantic terminal blocks. I'm working on something to cover them at the moment.
050ba249d2e1925aeba4548e8bb7a141.jpg
 
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Oil change with Mobil 1 full synthetic and programmed a few X-gauges in my ScanGauge2 to monitor trans temps. Now time to go get a hoagie, snacks and drinks then testing on some forest service roads to escape the 104° temps in the valley.
 
Few months to my trucks 10th yr anniversay.
Bought used with 117k miles in 2012
 

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ordered 2 light bars and switches as well as some rock lights and other lights for the interior. this year when winter comes in Alaska I will be ready with lots of extra lighting
 
Washed for road trip
I think at this point keeping it bone stock has become one of my fetish; it's my daily driver and I would really want it as hassle free as possible.
 

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The ole Badlands winch came through again!! Brothers wife hit a rock going up cedar canyon and lost oil pressure. We snatch blocked off of the back of the trailer to get a fairly straight pull on it and up she went easy peasy! Another beautiful day in the mountains!!
 
I did a complete overhaul on my exhaust this weekend. It turned out that my tail pipe rotting off was really the least of my worries. The stock Y-pipe on our trucks is a two piece design and they meet right before they join to the head pipe. Well that connection was completely shot, and not only that, but the connection from the Y-pipe to the head pipe was also completely shot. I quickly realized my problem would not be solved with just a muffler and tail pipe and I would need from the Y-pipe back.

So, I bought a URD Y-pipe :cool: and bought some new O2 sensors because there was no way I was spending the time to remove the likely stock sensors.

To make everything bolt-in I went with a Gibson exhaust since it included the headpipe, muffler, and tailpipe and it was on sale for the 4th. I just had to pick up a donut gasket for the Y-pipe>headpipe connection and some M10-1.25 nuts for the header studs and I was ready to install.

The week prior I had been dousing the studs and nuts on the old Y-pipe in penetrating fluid to hopefully make them come off without too much effort. Surprisingly, they all were in relatively decent condition which is why I even felt confident buying all this hardware in the first place. They still needed some persuasion from the torch but they came off in one piece and no drilling :pray2:. The rotted connection on the old Y-pipe actually completely gave out with the impact driver hits while removing the nuts which actually made the removal a bit easier. The only modification I had to do was bash the hanger on the driver sider cat with a hammer so it would fit through the frame. No cutting needed. With the old exhaust out I could fully assess the damage;
2 leaks coming from Header>Y-Pipe connection. Gasket decimated both sides.
1 Leak from Y-Pipe>Y-Pipe connection. Flange rotted, gasket decimated.
1 Leak from Y-Pipe>Headpipe. Donut gasket nonexistent
4 Leaks (Holes, rot) in down pipe to muffler.
------------------------
8 reasons my exhaust sounded like someone blowing a raspberry :doh:

The URD Y-Pipe went in super easy and so did the Gibson exhaust. It's a bit fiddly installing any exhaust just keeping everything loose enough to get it aligned and everything but it only took maybe an hour of adjusting to get it right. I kept the tailpipe off at first to paint it black so I did the first start while it was just an axle dump. I was not expecting it to sound so rowdy, it absolutely screamed! What better way to let the neighbors know you have a new exhaust, right?

Once the tailpipe was painted and installed I took it for a drive and it's insane what a difference it made. The strangest part is both how much quieter it is inside the cab and how much louder it is outside and especially behind the truck. The Gibson muffler is really tame and drivable when you're in gear and at speed but has that typical deep guttural work truck sound when you get on it. Especially when making a turn or just from a stop it really makes some noise. But once you're cruising, it just amazes me how much quieter it is than what I've been dealing with before. I really had nothing to compare it to so I just thought the 4Runner had a super loud engine because that's really the only thing that seemed like it made noise before. Now I hardly hear the engine at all, all the sound is coming out the back.

I love the sound though. I was planning on swapping out the Gibson muffler for the Flowmaster Super 10 and Aero Resonator I bought but I don't think I need it anymore aggressive. The Gibson is nice and refined and makes the 4Runner sound like a real truck now. I can't return the Super 10 or Aero Resonator because I painted them so if anyone wants them, send me a message and we'll work something out. I don't want them just sitting around.

I'm going to fabricate a side exit for my tailpipe using some of the extra tubing Gibson sent me so when I do that I'll take some more detailed photos of the installed hardware. Right now my exhaust tips sticks out like 1-2" too far so that's my motivation to get that finished.

To end off, I'm also waiting on a MAF recalibration chip from URD tuned for my aFe intake and exhaust so I can reap the full benefits and performance of my new parts.
I'm hoping for a decent increase in fuel efficiency too as it should lean out the fuel mixture with the added air the intake is bringing in.

While it was more expensive and involved than I was hoping... I have to say this is worthy of being in my top 5 favorite mods I've done to my 4Runner simply because of how much of an improvement was actually made. I'll post more photos when I install the URD MAF cal but you can at least see the old vs the new and how the exhaust tip currently sits (not horrible but meh)

IMG-5576-2.jpg

IMG-5557.jpg

IMG-5579-2.jpg

In your picture, is that new exhaust system with a different y pipe to the headers? I need to replace my exhaust from the header/cats back because the y pipe is trashed and they just threw some tape or something around it. Was looking at the magnaflow overland stainless but these things have so many cats on them.


Today I had my front windows retinted because the weathertech vents push the windows forward making a crack. Also added new yorkim LED door lights to be brighter, and ordered new amber marker lights for the front after being bothered by white ones. Slowly still changing out console lights as I try and navigate that whole mess while detail cleaning under all the plastic parts because POs were messy.
 
In your picture, is that new exhaust system with a different y pipe to the headers? I need to replace my exhaust from the header/cats back because the y pipe is trashed and they just threw some tape or something around it. Was looking at the magnaflow overland stainless but these things have so many cats on them.

Yup, the URD y-pipe bolts directly to the OEM headers. It deletes 2 of the 4 cats with no check engine lights. You can bolt basically any complete exhaust kit to the y-pipe. I know aFe has one, magnaflow, URD also sells their own kit if you just wanted to order from one place.
 
I own a 2005 4Runner SRT. I went to change my oil today and I drained my transmission fluid on accident. What are my next steps to replacing transmission fluid? And do I need to change my transmission fluid filter as well??
All the help is appreciated.
 
I own a 2005 4Runner SRT. I went to change my oil today and I drained my transmission fluid on accident. What are my next steps to replacing transmission fluid? And do I need to change my transmission fluid filter as well??
All the help is appreciated.


One option is to simply follow the fill instructions in this thread using the fluid recommended for your truck. (I'm not sure which model year marked the change to WS fluid so you'll need to check. Valvoline Maxlife may also be an option though there is a debate over whether it's best to stick with the Toyota fluid. Your call.) The main PITA is the level check, described in post #3 of the linked thread.

As for the filter, IIRC it's a metal screen type thing and a few people have cleaned it but most don't bother b/c 1) you have to drop the pan and 2) those who have cleaned it haven't found much in it (others please chime in if your filter experience was different). Again, your call.

You might invest in a Fumoto valve for your oil pan. Makes draining your oil super easy and virtually guarantees this will never happen again. Hope you get it worked out.
 
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The reading of the tea leaves that on every other vehicle I've owned has been called 'checking the oil level'.

In the end I had to accept it's either not totally empty or over-full.
 
Got the new axle built on the wood/shuttle trailer! Turned out better then expected for a guy who’s never built an axle. Took it out past the local transfer station and she did pretty well. Went through some mud puddles and got it to articulate some going across some ruts in the road. Can’t wait to shuttle more then 2 bikes on Sunday!
 

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