What is the most likely cause of cold engine squeal (see video)

[mom]

What is the most likely cause of this cold engine squeal?
Toyota 4runner squeal when started on a cold engine - YouTube

The squeal only happens when the engine is cold, and only for about 30 seconds.
In the video, you can hear the squeal at startup, and then, halfway through the video, the squeal goes away.

Googling, I see it can be belts, pulleys, bearings, tensioners, power steering, etc.
I have a mechanics stethoscope on order.
Power steering fluid is not empty.

I'm not quite sure how to diagnose exactly which part is making the noise.

Since you guys know the 4Runner rather well, what would you suggest is the most common cause of this morning-only high-pitched squealing noise?

 

[HOJeepster]

Most common cause: the cold weather. My truck does this too on cold mornings.

 

[LittleCaesar]

More than likely old belts. If they have never been changed, start there.

 

[mom]

Most common cause: the cold weather. My truck does this too on cold mornings.

My fault.

I should have mentioned that I live in the Silicon Valley, where it hasn't been below about 50 or so during the day, and not even close to freezing all winter (except for one week early in December).

It happens EVERY time I start it (and has been doing so since early summer when it was 80 degrees outside).

Here is a video from a second start, after that video above:
1997 Toyota 4Runner squeal only when starting a cold engine - YouTube

 

[541joseph]

belt or power steering pump most likely. id replace the belt (cheap) and then if it doesnt stop check the power steering pump bearings

 

[Joshv4runner]

I have the same squeal on cold startups. and have narrowed it down to the alternator belt that needs to be tightened. I would check to see if your belts are nice and snug or if they need to be replaced.

 

[FROGrunner]

Depending in the condition of the belt it may be as simple as an adjustment to your belts. I find that most of the time we have cars with squeals in the shop it's the alternator belt that needs to be tightened.

 

[BrianSD_42]

How old are each of the three belts?

My V6 hasn't squeeled in years but my belts have less than 30k on them.

 

[diggity_1031]

Its most likely the belts. I think the rubber shrinks a little when its exposed to cold temps. like most things do and expands when they get hot. Nothing too extreme. Or check the tension on the belts.

 

[mom]

How old are each of the three belts?.

I don't remember when they were last replaced, so, it must be a few years, at least; so I'll replace the belts.
- This thread says BANDO is the OEM manufacturer.
- This thread says NSK is the OEM for pulley bearings
- This thread says there's a screen at the bottom of the power steering reservoir that gets clogged

This is the only 3rd-generation DIY I could find on the net, but, it's for the 3.4 L 5VZ-FE, while I have the 2.7L 3RZ-FE (but I also have the Haynes & FSM):
- How to: Change Drive Belts 3.4 L 5VZ-FE

EDIT: Found this for the 1st-generation 2.7L 3RZ-FE; do you think it would be similar (or the same) for the 3rd generation 3RZ-FE?
- 1st Gen How-To: Change your belts (P/S, A/C, Alternator) 2.4/2.7L

 

[CallMeAnEngineer]

It's the "O-L-D" law of squeaking belts, as my old man would say. Your belts are either o-l-d, or they're just c-o-l-d.

 

[TheDurk]

I don't remember when they were last replaced, so, it must be a few years, at least.

I googled squeaky belts, and some folks said to spray water on them to see if the noise goes away, as a diagnostic test.

Any other diagnostic tests to see if it's belts, bearings, power steering, or tensioners?

I use the water test. You can always remove the belts one-by-one to narrow down the responsible system. Nothing bad happens running the engine briefly with all three aux. belts removed. If a bearing, you can usually feel something amiss turning/spinning it by hand once the belt is off.

If your belts are over 100k, I'd just replace them. At some point, there is no way to tighten an old, worn-out belt until it doesn't squeak. The stethoscope is good on bearings, too.

 

[mom]

If your belts are over 100k, I'd just replace them

I don't mind replacing the three belts.

My local Autozone has Dayco and Duralast, but not Bando (which is the OEM brand).
- Dayco (PS = $10, Alt = $10, AC = $12)
- Duralast (PS = $17, Alt = $18, AC = $21)

I don't have any experience with drive belts; do you think the brand matters?

 

[BrianSD_42]

Before you buy local auto zone I would highly suggest you call Camelback Toyota Online Parts and ask for an internet quote. Obviously it won't be cheaper than auto zone but it may come close enough to go OEM.

 

[TheDurk]

I don't mind replacing the three belts.

My local Autozone has Dayco and Duralast, but not Bando (which is the OEM brand).
- Dayco (PS = $10, Alt = $10, AC = $12)
- Duralast (PS = $17, Alt = $18, AC = $21)

I don't have any experience with drive belts; do you think the brand matters?

I do. I got 120k on my factory belts without adjustment which is pretty awesome.

So, BANDO says you need this:

I'd go with Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Bando-4PK1120-Quality-Serpentine-Belt/dp/B000CAXHJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1391388930&sr=1-1&keywords=4pk1120

http://www.amazon.com/Bando-4PK915-Quality-Serpentine-Belt/dp/B000CAYSLU/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1391389091&sr=1-1&keywords=4pk915

http://www.amazon.com/Bando-5PK890-Quality-Serpentine-Belt/dp/B000CAYSTW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1391389147&sr=1-1&keywords=5pk890

About $25 Prime eligible.

 

[02SE]

I do. I got 120k on my factory belts without adjustment which is pretty awesome. Consider this:

4Runner Serpentine Belt Kit Air Steering Alternator 3pc | eBay

$35.88 free shipping for all three.

I don't spend much time if any on Ebay. Do they have an accessory belt kit for the OP's 3RZ 4 cylinder engine?

 

[T4R2014]

Go with OEM/Bando. The OEM's last a while before they ever begin to squeal. My mechanic installed Gates brand belts and they squeal for a few seconds when it gets cold.

 

[TheDurk]

I don't spend much time if any on Ebay. Do they have an accessory belt kit for the OP's 3RZ 4 cylinder engine?

OOPS. I'm so used to the 6cyl. I'll be back. Watch for an edit.

EDIT: Post revised. They don't. Amazon has them for a good price. Thanks for the catch on the engine. Sorry, MOM (that sounds weird...)

 

[TheDurk]

I don't remember when they were last replaced, so, it must be a few years, at least; so I'll replace the belts.
- This thread says BANDO is the OEM manufacturer.
- This thread says NSK is the OEM for pulley bearings
- This thread says there's a screen at the bottom of the power steering reservoir that gets clogged

This is the only 3rd-generation DIY I could find on the net, but, it's for the 3.4 L 5VZ-FE, while I have the 2.7L 3RZ-FE (but I also have the Haynes & FSM):
- How to: Change Drive Belts 3.4 L 5VZ-FE

EDIT: Found this for the 1st-generation 2.7L 3RZ-FE; do you think it would be similar (or the same) for the 3rd generation 3RZ-FE?
- 1st Gen How-To: Change your belts (P/S, A/C, Alternator) 2.4/2.7L

Here is the relevant page from the FSM which I guess you have. The on-line FSM is from 2002 and doesn't cover the 4cyl., but my paper '99 FSM does. Obviously, you don't need to remove the water pump. Stop at 9b. You probably don't need to drain coolant if you can leave the rad hose in place--I don't know. You may not need to remove the dipstick. Use your judgment on what is necessary just to do the belts.