What's the best price I can get for 2011 Limited?

wow! so much information

Guys, I'm really thrilled. My laptop at work dead on me today so I didn't have chance to check my post the whole day. When I got home, I couldn't believe that there's so much information you guys provided.

I bought my current 2002 SR5 in Nov. of 2001 when it just came out. I used CarsDirect.com -- America's #1 way to buy cars online! at the time. It really saved me lot of time and energy. I got it at around $200 above invoice, which I believed pretty good already. At least when I tried to negotiate with couple of dealers, I coudn't get this price any where. I lived in Ohio back then, not many Toyota dealers in town. I ended up with picking up the car from a smaller dealer about 40 miles out of city (which is not too bad) with the specific color and options I wanted.

Does anybody know whether Carsdirect still a good place to try?

What's the invoice price for 2010 limited with GPS? ( I don't need the 3rd row), but I only want the megnatic gray metalic.
 
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cars direct used be the best place, they are way off on the 4runner though. overstock.com is much better. I got mine last week for $250 over invoice and thought I got a great deal. Then overstock shows that you can get it for $500 under invoice.
 
If you bank with USAA, they have a pretty good car buying service. Something to think about for those military types.
 
+2 on USAA. I ended up doing a little better not using them, but they are a great starting point and I would have been happy making the deal they got me. Just a little happier with my deal...
 
USAA seems to use the same platform that NADA and overstock use. I found that their invoice numbers are slightly higher than what I have found at edmunds. But I wouldn't hesitate to use their buying service, 15 years banking with them and nothing but praise...they've earned my business.
 
cherrywanzi said:
what's the best approach to negotiate the price with multiple dealership?

thanks!

Cherry
Click to expand...

When I am buying a new car, I never ever walk into a showroom. I'm not a retail customer. Once you hook up with the floor sales people, they and their bosses have to make a commission and guess who's gonna pay that? I deal only with Fleet Depts, where the people generally work on salary, as best I have been able to determine. They are also very business-like -- much more pleasant to deal with than the clown-like characters on the sales floor, most of whom were flogging stereos or furniture last week, and know absolutely nothing about the product, except that it has 4 wheels and a commission.

First, I do my due diligence, by deciding eggzactly what I want to buy, the model, the options, and color. Then I research online as to what it looks like the best price around or below invoice one should be able to get for the vehicle I want. Next, I just sit down and start calling the Fleet Departments of the local dealerships that sell the brand of vehicle I want in my metro area. I tell them what I want and what I am willing to pay, and see if they want to play. I find some are interested, and some are not. If not, I say thank you and move on.

I also take into consideration the variations in sales tax in different cities in the metro area I live in. I bought two new Ford vans from a dealership that deliberately located just outside any city limits, so it was in the county, so sales were only subject to the state sales tax and no city sales tax. It made quite a bit of difference in the sales tax on the vehicles.

As someone else mentioned in this thread, find out and take into consideration doc fees and various and other sundry add-ons that each dealer might be intending to use to relieve you of your shekels before you reach the exit in a shiny new chariot.

If I can't find the price I want in my local metro area, I am perfectly willing to start calling neighboring cities and states, of course taking into consideration transportation cost for the vehicle, or for me to fly there and drive it back (my preference).

Always negotiate from the position of no trade-in, even if you might consider trading your current ride. Never mix the two negotiations. Once the price for your new vehicle is negotiated, if you will be disposing of your current car, ask them "By the way, how much would you give me for my fine ride?"

Good luck! By the way, I wholesaled cars and trucks for quite a few years (I am no longer in that business)

BTW, another online source for invoice prices is http://autos.msn.com/
 
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What Webby said. That's what I do everytime I buy a car. Do your homework and never deal with the floor sales people. I always ask for the internet sales department (usually coincides with the fleet manager's office). The last five cars I bought, I got the deal over the phone and had them prepare the paperwork while I drove into pick up the car.
The time of the year/month is also a big factor as you may have guessed. I buy my cars around August and usually towards the end of the month. September seems to be the month when the new year models start showing up so the dealers have to make room. Every dealer has a quota to meet, so take full advantage of it! Worst case, I will fly out of state if I can find a good deal and drive it back.
 
cherrywanzi said:
Webby, thanks for your advise! how do I find the fleet dept of Toyota in Chicago area?
Click to expand...

You're welcome! ... Each and every dealership, including Toyota dealerships, have their own separate fleet departments. Just call the main number of the Toyota dealerships in your area, one at a time, and ask the receptionist to please connect you to the Fleet Department. That should get you there.
 
:rtfm:

Update: I emailed my 2011 price inquiry to 5 local dealers on Monday. One one responsed with a quote for 2010 price. When I emphsize again that I want a 2011, he didn't response back at all. And all the other 4 just ignored my inquiry............

what the hell is wrong with them? My money is not real money? or what?
 
I would not wait.

With this being said. Take advantage of the year end deals and save yourself some money. You will not be getting anything in the 2011 that the 2010 does not have (unless you want at 2 x 4 Limited). O yea you will pay more.
 
2011 sr-5

I understand that dealer invoice includes the following:

TDA $400
Gasoline $10.60
Dealer Holdback $625 and
Whsl. Fin. Reserve $312

If I am able to purchase the vechicle for dealer invoice or slightly less, am I doing ok?
 
tpr39 said:
I understand that dealer invoice includes the following:

TDA $400
Gasoline $10.60
Dealer Holdback $625 and
Whsl. Fin. Reserve $312

If I am able to purchase the vechicle for dealer invoice or slightly less, am I doing ok?
Click to expand...

I don't believe these charge are included in the invoice but rather invoice plus those and plus $800.00 destination charge.
 
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cherrywanzi said:
:rtfm:

Update: I emailed my 2011 price inquiry to 5 local dealers on Monday. One one responsed with a quote for 2010 price. When I emphsize again that I want a 2011, he didn't response back at all. And all the other 4 just ignored my inquiry............

what the hell is wrong with them? My money is not real money? or what?
Click to expand...

For starters... :rtfm: means READ THE *(&@#$ MANUAL.

Did you use Edmunds to send out quote requests? Secondly, I'd definitely do the overstock.com thing. I thought it was lame until 2 dealers finally decided to play ball with me. Ultimately though, I went with a broker and made the best deal possible.

Read more at this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/546467-post31.html

Of course, ya gotta do the test drive and those sales guys will call you - when they do, simply say "i just wanted to drive it, there's no way in hell i can spend that much money" - they immediately stop calling.

Good luck.
 
Blackknight said:
With this being said. Take advantage of the year end deals and save yourself some money. You will not be getting anything in the 2011 that the 2010 does not have (unless you want at 2 x 4 Limited). O yea you will pay more.
Click to expand...

What does the 2011 2x4 have that the 2010 does not?
 
I've had good experience using consumer reports build and buy report. I purchased my 2010 T4R Ltd for $630 below invoice, and my wifes 2010 Odyssey for $1500 below invoice. Build the vehicle on CR website, click generate build and buy report, you get a report with three quotes from local dealers showing no haggle price and how much above/below invoice. You also get contact names and numbers. BTW the dealers will contact you. Simply pick the best price, and location, set up appt for test drive and buy. By far the simplest way I've found to buy a vehicle. You need CR membership online but that's cheap compared to how much you can save.
 
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So I checked out CR car buying service and also compared it to USAA's service, both come back the same. I think there must be a mistake, check out what a 2011 Trail Edition with Nav/KDSS came out to. I'm going to send it off and see what the dealers come back with. I think they loaded the Invoice price wrong for the Trail Edition.
 

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