When do you call it quits?

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nkadlac

New member
I have a 97 Limited with 251k on it. I've neglected it *physically* the past 2 years, and the rust has been on steroids. I'm wondering how much time to invest into doing body work on my own. It runs like a dream, and I've recently put new tire/timing belt/ tie rods into the sucker. There isn't much to complain about mechanically. I also just added a new bumper.

The main areas of concern are the quarter panel, near the front lower door jam, tailgate, and underbody. Yes, I live in MN. Am I crazy?

Question is: Should I let the rust continue to drive the life of the vehicle, or attempt to prolong by doing DIY rust repair?
 

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Yes I have. The rear diff looks a bit uncomfortable, but the frame itself doesn't look like its about to crack.
 
I would look into some good rust prevention if the truck functions well. I don't know about DIY rust repair, but I would stop whatever rust there is by covering it in oil or Fluidfilm. DIY body work never comes out good in my opinion.
 
Scary to say, but I have a feeling probably that rust follows the entire wheel well which is still doable. Since its sort of a hidin area it would be a good spot to practice some DIY bodywork. If you want a good job at it,you should probably look into cutting all the rust out and welding some new metal in and reshape as best as possible then body fill over it.
 
If the rust is mostly in the body and the frame is still good, I would say drive it until you start to get wet with the windows rolled up in the rain. Then call it quits.

Body work is very expensive, so although it would be great to get it professionally repaired, it's really only worth it if the truck has sentimental value. You can attempt DIY as well, but just go in knowing that it may turn out just as ugly as the rust if you are a novice. But if you're planning on just letting it rust to pieces, there really is no harm in taking a stab at it.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I have found a couple of decent junkers in the area. I know the rear quarter panels are not easy to replace like the front fenders are, but I may be able to cobble together a few panels from local junkers.

I suppose if I were to get two more years out of this lady, I may just deal with the worst of it until it eventually catches up like white_n_slow mentioned.

I honestly thought I'd only get two years when I first started driving her at 221k, not knowing anything about the durability of the 3rd gens. Going on 4 so far...
 
It looks to be in good condition otherwise. I would do a thorough inspection of the frame and if looks okay, start rust proofing it.
 
I live in Ontario, Canada and have serious rust in exactly the same zone - here its from the salt slurry that collects in the centre of the left highway lane which gets sprayed up by the driver's side wheels. PO didn't do a great job of keeping it clean in there plus the rust on the rockers was due to the factory running boards being there (which I removed). Other than a few spots on the tailgate (common), this is literally the ONLY part of the body (driver's side rocker at rear, around wheel well and under bumper end) that has any rust.

Since the rest of the body is mint and my frame looks like this (except for front and back ends where there is quite a bit of surface rust)...


...I decided to do a very cheap, quick and dirty fibreglass job (some might say 'ghetto') and then paint with rocker guard. It ain't pretty at all but it's a hell of a lot better than the huge hole that was developing and it'll hold for a couple of years (hopefully)


I painted the rockers on both sides with rust primer and black rocker guard to even things out and protect it. You can kind of see it in this photo.


I patched the wheel well rust areas with body filler and then covered back up with the black fender flare trim. However under the R/L bumper piece it is completely rotted out and at some point I'll need to remove bumper and cut out etc.


I spray the frame every year (inside rails as well) with Krown however the rear diff/pumpkin is looking a little dicey. The most important thing is to keep that breather free from rust, so I shoot a little PB Blaster or WD up there and wiggle it free every so often. This thing has been so reliable that I've probably put way more time into doing stuff like this than actual engine repairs (other than maintenance). At some point I'm sure I'll have to call it quits but to the OP, just patch it up and keep on going!
 
With that amount of rust on the body, I'd be surprised if there aren't holes in the frame from rust. Get underneath your truck, and look at the inside frame rails near the muffler and gas tank, they seem to deteriorate faster in those spots.
 
Just snapped a few more pics. Thought it might give better context on the situation...
 

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nkadlac said:
Blanco, that was really helpful, thank you. For the Krown stuff you mentioned, is it this? T40 © Rust Inhibitor & Lubricant

My frame doesn't look that good, but I think it's still salvageable if I put in the time to clean it up.
Click to expand...

Indeed your frame looks quite a bit worse than mine especially in the joints/welds where moisture and salt can collect and I do have some surface rust there for sure. I'm assuming they must salt the crap out of the roads in MN? I find for the most part these frames are pretty solid and I've seen only a very small number on this forum that have reached the 'swiss cheese' stage. I believe there was a run of Tacos/Tundras that got some bad frames but the 3rd 4Runners seem to be fairly robust. My swaybars, front and rear are rusted pretty bad as is the protective gas tank shield, BUT these are easily replaceable parts unlike the frame.

I go to a licensed 'Krown Rustproofing' place here. I think they're a Canadian company but it would be similar to Ziebart? in the USA I'm guessing. It costs me about $125.00 a year and I usually get it each October or November. Before I get the application I get underneath with a wire brush and remove all loose rust then power wash and let it dry. It has definitely helped slow down the frame rust for sure. I have also used Fluid Film for other tight areas which a previous poster mentioned and it is a very good product IMO. I also have some POR15 which I'm planning to use on the rear axle so stay tuned.

In the meantime get underneath with a small hammer and a wire brush and check your frame condition from front to back/side to side, it looks totally salvageable if you're willing to put the work in.

There are a number of threads on here that are very useful as far as this subject is concerned, I can't remember everyone's user names off hand but just do a search and you'll find the info you need.

Keep us posted.
 
I used Por-15 on the hitch and rear section of my frame, so I'm familiar with the messy situation that can be. I'm planning on conquering the rest of it if possible.

Yes, we do have a Ziebarts here, coincidentally there is one about 2 min from my place.

It sounds like I'll start dealing with the frame first, then move to the other areas of the truck. I'd love to keep it past 300k if possible.

Thanks again for the honest help!
 
I used a sandblaster and ZeroRust. I'm not done yet but well on my way. Have frame rust at trans crossmember on drivers side.

Its got 255,000 on it and mechanically its great. Bought it two weeks ago for 2500.
 

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