Which jack do you keep in your 4r?

H

hinmo24t

New member
I'm trying to decide which jack setup for my 4r.

I have a hse w 2 car garage and my 4r instead of old wrx. I got a new pittsburg 1.5t low profile aluminum jack right now but was going to get a 3ton for garage and maybe bring that 1.5 ton instead of an aftermarket 8ton bottle jack? Or should I just run 8 ton bottle? I have a nice 2" thick board I could throw in that could fit either option by the way. Wondering if I should save $ and just run the 1.5t back there but hope w the board and 2-3" ome and 255/75/17 itd be a good option compared to a bottle jack setup. Thanks.

Also i have sliders and could get a hilift with sliders pretty much as only points. Would rather use bottle or 1.5t though to get a corner up.
 
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hinmo24t said:
I'm trying to decide which jack setup for my 4r.

I have a hse w 2 car garage and my 4r instead of old wrx. I got a new pittsburg 1.5t low profile aluminum jack right now but was going to get a 3ton for garage and maybe bring that 1.5 ton instead of an aftermarket 8ton bottle jack? Or should I just run 8 ton bottle? I have a nice 2" thick board I could throw in that could fit either option by the way. Wondering if I should save $ and just run the 1.5t back there but hope w the board and 2-3" ome and 255/75/17 itd be a good option compared to a bottle jack setup. Thanks.

Also i have sliders and could get a hilift with sliders pretty much as only points. Would rather use bottle or 1.5t though to get a corner up.
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I have the 3 ton jack from costco. Im lifted about 2.5 inches and have had no issues
 
Thanks. I'm getting one for my garage but I'm actually wondering which one to keep in the truck with my part of recovery gear.
 
Desid said:
Pro eagle 2 ton for me


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You keep it with you with a board? I kind of like the idea of throwing the aluminum 1.5 ton in a tote with the 2" wood that the whole thing can fit on...then get the 3 ton for garage
 
Nice discussion. I've been having this same thought lately. Luckily I haven't had to remove a wheel anywhere that's not my driveway in years so it hasn't been an issue. I carry a Hi-Lift in the back but the only "hard point" on my truck is the hitch. Lifting the two rears would be easy but that's about it. My sliders should go on pretty soon then I'll at least be able to lift a side/corner much easier (but not very safely).

I'd much prefer a compact but good quality bottle jack I can put under the axle tube in the rear or reach the frame or crossmember in the front. I don't see myself shelling out hundreds on a small jack but I'm not going to settle for something from Harbor Freight either. Hopefully folks will provide some good suggestions for reasonably priced jacks or some alternatives (is there such a thing as a good quality scissor jack)??

Also....I'm not opposed to harvesting an OEM jack for another vehicle from a salvage yard. Any suggestions on "good" jacks from other vehicles??
 
I carry the bottle jack and a chunk of 4x4 wood and a standard jackstand. Lifted and on 35s, works just fine. I also have a hi-lift available, but prefer the bottle jack. Just need to chose a jack point that doesn't unload the suspension
 
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High-lift, bottle jack, and at least one jack stand.

I saw a bottle jack / jack-stand combo that has both items in one device, I like it, but feel separates are better if you have the space.

I added the bottle jack because I hate using a high-lift… its more of a last resort tool for me.
 
Honestly, for the height and weight of these rigs you might want to consider replacing the original screw type jack for one from a Land Cruiser - especially one from the older 60 or 40 series models. Those jacks were 2 stage, easily rebuilt and with a simple base will more than handle the job. They are a lot taller than a factory T4R jack, so they should handle even the highest lifts available for these vehicles. They should still fit within the stock location - I should have kept mine when I sold my '77 40 series, duh.

Sarge
 
Sarge said:
Honestly, for the height and weight of these rigs you might want to consider replacing the original screw type jack for one from a Land Cruiser - especially one from the older 60 or 40 series models. Those jacks were 2 stage, easily rebuilt and with a simple base will more than handle the job. They are a lot taller than a factory T4R jack, so they should handle even the highest lifts available for these vehicles. They should still fit within the stock location - I should have kept mine when I sold my '77 40 series, duh.

Sarge
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whered the 'like' buttons go? lol

i like your idea - thought i heard somewhere that the LC bottle jacks were the same ones in the 4rs...not sure if they (ronny dahl anyone?) was referring to same LC though. Thats a nice solution if so - but 8ton bottle jacks with strong reviews can be had for around $40 online it seems too, to keep in mind.

as others mentioned hi-lift is last resort for me.

Ninja, is the lower control arm with a piece of wood where people lift and load the suspension?


thanks

t
 
The problem with jacking or supporting from the outer end of the LCA is that the bottom of the LCA is not a level surface. It slopes upward toward the center of the vehicle, and if it's oily or otherwise at all slick, the jack or stand could easily slip inboard and drop the vehicle corner. Years ago I had that happen on an IFS Ford Ranger. Fortunately the wheel was still on. It happened like a shot, with no warning. I wouldn't trust that as a lift point without some additional safety precautions.
 
That is why I suggest using a Land Cruiser older style jack - the top them has a notch in it to hold it onto the surface better. That works far better than most hydraulic jacks that just have the surface cut teeth, which in most cases are far too soft of steel to really bite and stay put.

Otherwise, I'd say those jacks with the built-in ratchet type stand is probably your safest bet. BUT, try to find one not made in China or of Chinese cheapo components - good luck with that one. There are extremely heavy duty scissor lifts, but none are really suited to lifting a lifted, high articulation vehicle. On my old Samurai that could flex like a Slinky - I had to resort to a High Lift and built dedicated places where it was literally attached to the truck with a clevis. Still, we all know too well how much those jacks love to fall over, wheels chocked tightly or not...

Sarge
 
Sarge said:
That is why I suggest using a Land Cruiser older style jack - the top them has a notch in it to hold it onto the surface better. That works far better than most hydraulic jacks that just have the surface cut teeth, which in most cases are far too soft of steel to really bite and stay put
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Would you mind looking for an example? I looked on eBay and saw a few different older Land Cruiser jacks, but want to make sure I get the right thing.
 
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