Which radiator should I buy
- Thread starter Coolman
- Start date
Well' if the much better all Aluminum is not whats wanted, then my suggestion fwiw is get Denso being an OEM supplier & still part owned by Toyota the quality control standards are better do doubt there.
But' it appears Denso offers (2) Rad versions?
First is a cheapo, aka: "One Size Fits Most" (reviews reflect OEM cap fitment sometimes iffy, smaller fluid capacity stated on some even).
Part numbers generally begin with 221 on lower grade it seems?
Denso's best grade radiator is their Direct Drop in unit aka: "First Time Fit" models (OEM standard rads).
Most part numbers on these better rads start out with W1033 it seems? I bought a "First time fit" Denso for wifes Infiniti recently and it was spot on to OEM, I hit this post today so thought I'd respond.
If this info is already posted here I'm sorry folks, this thread is quite long to read in its entirety :clock:, trying to understand if this is always the case myself idk, maybe it will help with future rads a bit
eep:.
Places I started out verifying specs was PartsGeek & RockAuto but since things may change in future from what's posted online in threads Its probably best to look for detailed changes before simply ordering whats posted, one being Amazon parts finder. It is just horrible, many send backs happen there as we all know so do your homework before ordering anywhere online.
I'm not advertising to buy from above places it's just many places fail to list the needed info and imho Denso & other corps selling todays parts should really put a stop to their dealers laziness :frusty:. Being' the Denso website also fails in this category, I don't expect this anytime soon. Oh well' It just appears Denso offers two grades of rads in most cases so buy the better one if offered from my experience with W1033 and reviews read on 221?
Hope it helps someone?
Peace!
But' it appears Denso offers (2) Rad versions?
First is a cheapo, aka: "One Size Fits Most" (reviews reflect OEM cap fitment sometimes iffy, smaller fluid capacity stated on some even).
Part numbers generally begin with 221 on lower grade it seems?
Denso's best grade radiator is their Direct Drop in unit aka: "First Time Fit" models (OEM standard rads).
Most part numbers on these better rads start out with W1033 it seems? I bought a "First time fit" Denso for wifes Infiniti recently and it was spot on to OEM, I hit this post today so thought I'd respond.
If this info is already posted here I'm sorry folks, this thread is quite long to read in its entirety :clock:, trying to understand if this is always the case myself idk, maybe it will help with future rads a bit
eep:.Places I started out verifying specs was PartsGeek & RockAuto but since things may change in future from what's posted online in threads Its probably best to look for detailed changes before simply ordering whats posted, one being Amazon parts finder. It is just horrible, many send backs happen there as we all know so do your homework before ordering anywhere online.
I'm not advertising to buy from above places it's just many places fail to list the needed info and imho Denso & other corps selling todays parts should really put a stop to their dealers laziness :frusty:. Being' the Denso website also fails in this category, I don't expect this anytime soon. Oh well' It just appears Denso offers two grades of rads in most cases so buy the better one if offered from my experience with W1033 and reviews read on 221?
Hope it helps someone?
Peace!
fgr_flyfisher
New member
I recently experienced this firsthand; my radiator cap had deteriorated and the pressure finally won and started allowing coolant into my reservoir, followed by it boiling. New cap was what she needed. :thumb3:
PrinceValorum
New member
Sorry to revive an older thread, but for the sake of keeping knowledge in one place:
If anyone has a minute, can you check the overall thickness of your radiator and post what it is? I know earlier in the thread people were talking about thicker rads, or that the Denso had a thicker core than the Koyo, etc.
I'm curious if that impacts the overall thickness of the rad, because now that I'm getting ready to replace mine (not sure on the brand, but 95% sure it's not oem) I remembered that I'm space constrained due to my dual battery setup. Mine is right at 2" thick, not including the shroud. The core is less than that, it's 1/2" inset in the front, and I wasn't able to easily measure the back due to the shroud.
I asked one of the Toyota dealers on ebay if they could measure the 16410-AZ011 for me, and they wouldn't, they just want your VIN.
If anyone has a minute, can you check the overall thickness of your radiator and post what it is? I know earlier in the thread people were talking about thicker rads, or that the Denso had a thicker core than the Koyo, etc.
I'm curious if that impacts the overall thickness of the rad, because now that I'm getting ready to replace mine (not sure on the brand, but 95% sure it's not oem) I remembered that I'm space constrained due to my dual battery setup. Mine is right at 2" thick, not including the shroud. The core is less than that, it's 1/2" inset in the front, and I wasn't able to easily measure the back due to the shroud.
I asked one of the Toyota dealers on ebay if they could measure the 16410-AZ011 for me, and they wouldn't, they just want your VIN.
PrinceValorum
New member
Thank you for checking! Do you know which brand yours is?
spartacus
Senior Member
Mine is an oem dens from the dealer.
PrinceValorum
New member
Perfect, thanks again!
giguchan
Senior Member
I REALLY like that Aluminum Rado... was there much if any fabbing to be done?
giguchan
Senior Member
So basically you mean one radiator and thats it?
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
I think he means bypassing the lower trans coolant tank on the stock or stock-style radiator and using a standalone trans cooler only. I know a lot of people that that works for, but a lot of us run a second cooler in series to keep trans temps in check if that is needed. Worked wonders for my trans temps - they were running rather high. I don't experience freezing temps, however.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I agree with endless. The key is your environment. In non freezing areas were the temperature stays fairly in a range is different then the freezing temperatures majorly swinging.
For example: I am in the rust belt with temperatures fluctuating all the time.
The internal radiator cooler acts like a heater as well. So the transmission fluid can warm up quicker when it's really cold outside.
So just change mine every 10 years with a new denso.
This works for me.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
For example: I am in the rust belt with temperatures fluctuating all the time.
The internal radiator cooler acts like a heater as well. So the transmission fluid can warm up quicker when it's really cold outside.
So just change mine every 10 years with a new denso.
This works for me.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
giguchan
Senior Member
Thanks Guys...
I didn't understand what was being said. I'm downstate NY so that wont be right for me. it gets cold here.
As i have read some say it's a good idea and some say it isn't . I think like you guys said it's "where u live"
I used to run an ATC when i towed my popup on a pretty regular Basis. Now it's just my Jetski.- which has a bigger fuel tank than my damn 4 runner.
I didn't understand what was being said. I'm downstate NY so that wont be right for me. it gets cold here.
As i have read some say it's a good idea and some say it isn't . I think like you guys said it's "where u live"
I used to run an ATC when i towed my popup on a pretty regular Basis. Now it's just my Jetski.- which has a bigger fuel tank than my damn 4 runner.
T4R2014
Elite Member
Current options:
Generic Denso that some forum geniuses think is OEM - cheapass generic radiator that resembles the quality of parts you'd use to keep a hyundai excel beater on the road, no better than what your local autozone will provide.
Champion CC1998 - for guys with no standards for the parts they install on their truck. Tacomaworld has reports of failures too. These things are generally shit.
KoyoRacing Aluminum - couple reports of leaking on TacomaWorld. These guys are like the soup nazis for aluminum radiators. They aren't in this game for the money since their principle is no transmission coolers built in. There goes more than half your potential sales. At least there is a standard they were built to meet. If you're going with aluminum then shouldn't that solve internal leaking concerns anyway?
The Japanese Denso is getting harder to find. Overall radiator options are a crapshoot for our aging 4Runners. It may be worth it to invest in a custom aluminum piece.
Generic Denso that some forum geniuses think is OEM - cheapass generic radiator that resembles the quality of parts you'd use to keep a hyundai excel beater on the road, no better than what your local autozone will provide.
Champion CC1998 - for guys with no standards for the parts they install on their truck. Tacomaworld has reports of failures too. These things are generally shit.
KoyoRacing Aluminum - couple reports of leaking on TacomaWorld. These guys are like the soup nazis for aluminum radiators. They aren't in this game for the money since their principle is no transmission coolers built in. There goes more than half your potential sales. At least there is a standard they were built to meet. If you're going with aluminum then shouldn't that solve internal leaking concerns anyway?
The Japanese Denso is getting harder to find. Overall radiator options are a crapshoot for our aging 4Runners. It may be worth it to invest in a custom aluminum piece.
Brian.
Member
My, don't You paint a rosy picture.... But lets rephrase it in a way that more people will understand and be able to use:
Under $100 ~ ebay, amazon special
$115 ~ Toyota part from dealer (few dollars higher in some places, this is just MY dealers price to anyone who buys online for pickup).
$200 ~ Champion (no plastic, no crimps)
$400 ~ Koyo aluminum (no plastic, no crimps)
$650+ ~ Claimed Japan made OEM, sourced from a sketchy overseas online place (but most people agree the Japan made radiators have long since been NLA). Still plastic caps with crimps to "seal".
I went Champion as Koyo didn't exist at the time and I didn't want a plastic crimped radiator. The radiator core is good, well built with good welding. It's the fit and finish that's lacking, both easily resolved in a few minutes by anyone who's had any experience working on vehicles ~ you'll have the tools needed already and the experience to know how to handle whatever minor issue comes up. I'm not sure I would have bought the Koyo had it been available anyway, at Twice the price, I doubt it's Twice the radiator.
As for failures, there's no product in the world that's never had a failure. That's a Terrible litmus test by which to judge something.
T4R2014
Elite Member
The $115 Toyota part is the same as the Ebay/Amazon special. A legit OEM is around $400. I'd reckon that its sketchier to buy from a US based aftermarket bumper company than to buy from an overseas supplier like Partsouq or Amayama.
Champion Radiator Aluminum 3 core swap | Page 30 | Tacoma World
I mean, how much do they really sell? Like 500? Let's assume 15-20 failures out of those 500. That is pretty poor. These things are failing from the welds. What is stopping them from doing crappy welds on the ATF cooler? I guess we can use "experience" to make a Champion work, but then we just keep allowing them to continue selling crap and use us as their quality control guinea pig. Not a company I'd support. The Koyo honestly does look like twice the radiator minus an ATF cooler.
My $0.02 on radiator selection
Feb 2017 I bought a new Denso # W0133-1895498 from partsgeek for $146.43 because the original 2001 unit finally died.This Denso worked but crapped out Dec 2020 I got under 4 years the plastic top cap just cracked. So looked at different options I ended up buying from radiator express which is an on-line company that seem to source from actual wholesalers.
The new radiator was actually beefier than the old one. I didn’t used a scale but just doing a empirical comparison the new unit felt about 2 lbs more it was also cheaper by $30. The country of origin is Malaysia it was clearly labeled on the box . The packaging was 1st class it actually had formed foam around the upper & lower caps and on core.
Feb 2017 I bought a new Denso # W0133-1895498 from partsgeek for $146.43 because the original 2001 unit finally died.This Denso worked but crapped out Dec 2020 I got under 4 years the plastic top cap just cracked. So looked at different options I ended up buying from radiator express which is an on-line company that seem to source from actual wholesalers.
The new radiator was actually beefier than the old one. I didn’t used a scale but just doing a empirical comparison the new unit felt about 2 lbs more it was also cheaper by $30. The country of origin is Malaysia it was clearly labeled on the box . The packaging was 1st class it actually had formed foam around the upper & lower caps and on core.
Attachments
well my cheapo denso from amazon finally showed up...and I was amazed it did not have any broken bits..I knew it was a gamble with past denso radiator i have gotten shipped..denso does such a poor packing job.
And its prob the cheaper denso as the numbers dont have a "w" in it like referenced above....
did not know denso played that game of 2 different qualities.....if so... how can you trust the denso name
And its prob the cheaper denso as the numbers dont have a "w" in it like referenced above....
did not know denso played that game of 2 different qualities.....if so... how can you trust the denso name
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