why no lift bigger 3''

[Huskey]

Never rush this mod, its been done already and there is no race. As for money, it would be cheaper to go to school to learn to do it when compared to paying to have it done. If you can do it yourself, take your time and plan two steps ahead of where u are.

For an idea, here is my plan of attack:

1 - Lift without need for huge amounts of work (maximize tires size) but keep room for alot more (current situation). Im sitting at more or less 4 inches lift, but can currently go all the way up to 7 (front and rear) once I complete step 2.

2 - Bumpers, sliders, gears, slip yolks, steering extension and so on. Need to beef it up.

3 - Get the lift set to 6 inches and get some 37/38's and enjoy a little more.

4 - SAS with leaf springs and enjoy even more

I have set no timeline for this, its a hobby and thats why I have put "enjoy" throughout my plan.

As for tlflow's comment about breaking/wearing out front end compnents with 35's... its true they are tougher on the components however a drop bracket does reduce alot of these issues. Also there are alot of aftermarket parts to beef up teh strength of some of these components. It all depends on your fabrication/installation skills or the coin you are willing to spend. Without doing any major offroading, you can get away with alot less.

 

[cmlesschwab]

35's will fit with the correct offset wheel

cgill00 is running 315's, pretty much a 35" tire with an almost stock offset wheel. I'm sure in order to get full turn to turn and no rubbage, you'll need to do some trimming. I'm going to run 35's on my 2012, once I get the lift sorted out

Never rush this mod, its been done already and there is no race. As for money, it would be cheaper to go to school to learn to do it when compared to paying to have it done. If you can do it yourself, take your time and plan two steps ahead of where u are.

For an idea, here is my plan of attack:

1 - Lift without need for huge amounts of work (maximize tires size) but keep room for alot more (current situation). Im sitting at more or less 4 inches lift, but can currently go all the way up to 7 (front and rear) once I complete step 2.

2 - Bumpers, sliders, gears, slip yolks, steering extension and so on. Need to beef it up.

3 - Get the lift set to 6 inches and get some 37/38's and enjoy a little more.

4 - SAS with leaf springs and enjoy even more

I have set no timeline for this, its a hobby and thats why I have put "enjoy" throughout my plan.

As for tlflow's comment about breaking/wearing out front end compnents with 35's... its true they are tougher on the components however a drop bracket does reduce alot of these issues. Also there are alot of aftermarket parts to beef up teh strength of some of these components. It all depends on your fabrication/installation skills or the coin you are willing to spend. Without doing any major offroading, you can get away with alot less.

 

[Bourbonator]

Camburg and Total Chaos long travel kits will give you 4" and you can run 35s with trimmed/fiberglass fenders. These kits also increase front track by 7", so there's the tradeoff.

 

[cmlesschwab]

Yah I just got the alignment done. I already trimmed the body mount and some of the plastic on the rocker panel. I also relocated the front inner fender liner, so it looks clean and very OE looking. Now it only rubber when at full lock left and right, and I clear the body mount a bit better now by about another .5 inch or so. My Caster is around 4 degrees, Camber is +.04, and Toe is +.05. Seems to be tracking really well on the road with minimal bump steer. My wheels have are a 17x8.5 with a 4.75 backspace, based on the pics, I have about .25 inch more clearance on the UCA then cgill00. Be sure to post some pics once you get your tires on.

 

[Stifler]

never understood the need/want for that much lift unless it is just for show or mud boggin. I prefer the stability of a moderate lift and wider trac

 

[cmlesschwab]

In all actuality, my truck, even with the 35's handles great, even on the autobahn cruising at 90 MPH. I was able to get the stability back by doing proper alignment, replacing the rear track bar, to re-center the rear axle and replacing the front UCA to bring back the Caster. I would have run a slightly lower off-set wheel, but living here in Germany, it's illegal to have your tire tread sticking out past the fenders, and the last thing I wanted to do is put some cheapo plastic "Extended fender covers" on, and ruin the clean look I'm going for. In closing, I build all my trucks for daily use and moderate offloading, and like I told the other guys that think 35's are a waste on the 5th gens. Sure it's a brand new rig, but if you do the correct trimming and metal fabrication, rubbing and handling characteristics will not be an issue. IS THAT A GOOD ENOUGH REASON??????????????

 

[cmlesschwab]

Here's mine, on 315/70/17 Goodyear Duratracs. Only rubs lightly at FULL lock on the upper control arm. Even mild flexing NO RUBBING with the proper fender mods

 

[swimmerdude1127]

Here's mine, on 315/70/17 Goodyear Duratracs. Only rubs lightly at FULL lock on the upper control arm. Even mild flexing NO RUBBING with the proper fender mods

How on earth were you able to get this to only mildly rub on a locked turn? I have 285/70/17 MT/R kevlars with minimal rubbing on the fenders at full lock going in reverse. The fenders are already moved forward with that quick mod and I have a BMC as well.

I'd imagine with 315/70/17 tires you'd be getting a LOT of rub on a locked turn, especially with any amount of flex.

 

[Bourbonator]

Edited: I realized I already posted my answer. Old thread.

 

[cmlesschwab]

Depends on how much of the BMC mod you did, I had to take out a lot, as for the front of the fender well, I moved it as far forward as possible and I still have at least 2" of clearance (Wife helped me test for clearance). As for the UCA rubbing, this depends on who and how your alignment was done "if" you have the LR UCA. While doing the alignment, I first maxed out the adjustment for camber (+) to maximize width and set the caster at +2 degrees at locked it in place. from there all I did was max out the rear cam bolt of the LCA, which brings the tire more forward. Then finally to set everything within spec, you are basically only adjusting the tie rod ends for proper toe angle, and the front cam bolt of the LCA to bring back some (-) camber. My Toe is set at .05+, camber .03+, and caster 3.5+. ANY QUESTIONS???

 

[cmlesschwab]

Also, I actually get "less" light rubbing when in reverse. Also I forgot to mention the offset/wheel width makes a huge difference too. I'm actually selling my 17x8.5 ET 0 offset Method Standards for the 17x9 ET-12 offset version to eliminate the rubbing on the UCA. At the point I;ll have to see if I have to further modify the BM and front section of the fender well, but we'll see, it's only going to bring the tire out another .7 inches with wider wheel and different offset, and my tires tread is perfectly flush with the body. Hope this helps

 

[cmlesschwab]

I actually just bought new 17x9 XD Addicts in a -12 off set, that should fix my UCA rubbing issue. I'll for sure have to do a bit more relocating and trimming to ensure it does not rub, but I'll post some pics once I get the new wheels on.

 

[onebad4runner96]

does anyone have a 3" toytec lift with bilstien shocks front and rear? If so has anyone done a body spacer install im trying to figure out if i can do a 4 inch or 5 inch total lift by purchasing a body spacer.