Wiring/low voltage problem - corrosion!?!?

jjdbike

New member
Hi folks

I'd been thinking about writing this thread since last week when I dicovered my problem. I read a thread on 5TR asking “How much rust is too much” & it pushed me over the edge.

I bought the one 4Runner I found that I could afford at the time as I was committed to buying a 4Runner but needed a vehicle NOW. I’m in the south eastern corner of PA and I had it brought down & accress from opposite corner of PA (Pittsburg).

It was told by several trusted people that this one only had a litlle surface corrsion, a normal level for a 2011. That was confirmed by the body shop that took off the skid plates etc, sanded off the visible surface rust, applied rust converter and painted w/ chassis paint. I drive on ocean beach and protecting from corrosion is a priority.

I just had a custom - high performance wireing harness installed (i.e. rewired my lights) and installed higher performance bulbs including getting a set of Hella auxillary fogs installed. This model is previous to the redesign w/ projector housings and LEDs. I also got a new Battery. An Interstate MT7 AGM to be specific, as this was the highest rated for my vehicle on Consumer Reports.

We discovered the voltage at the battery was low, at 13.2. My friend, a veteran mechanic, did a bit of exploring. He found that the battery was good & the alternator was putting out what it should.He also noticed the ground from the battery to the chassis was corroded. He replaced that ground and the voltage went up from 13.2 to 13.6. Not enough but a defininate improvement. He hypothosised that becasue it came from an envoriment that got noticable snow & used lots of road salt that this corrsion was from salt spray & that other electrical connections would most likly also be bad. Further, he suggestes to get the voltage up above 14 where it should be, more wires and connections would need to be replaced. He thought it might be as simple as replacning the ground on the power side or as involved as needing a whole new wiring harness. I hope that’s not the case as it will be quite costly, although if it’s enevidable I’d like to just do it as opposed to chasing smaller things and placing temporary band-aids.

Have any of you ever heard of this happening on our 4Runners or similar vehilcles? Do any of you have any ideas of other potential cuprits for the low voltage? Obvoiously I’m starting to panic about what other hidden corrosion damage might be lurking and witing to bite me. I finanaced this for several years and dumped a bunch of money doing upgrades & mods. I hope to keep this for a long time.

I appreciate any input, ideas and suggestions.

Thanks!
JD
 
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Is that voltage while running? Seems normal. At least on my 4th gen. I still get 13.2 after the truck is off. Then the normal 12.5-8 with alarm on all day. I get 14+ while running with high output alternator.
 
Is that voltage while running? Seems normal. At least on my 4th gen. I still get 13.2 after the truck is off. Then the normal 12.5-8 with alarm on all day. I get 14+ while running with high output alternator.
Wow, so that is normal? I was told it should be above 14 when it is running (not w/ a lot of electrical stuff on and when it hot).
JD
 
You might gain something if doing the big 3 upgrade. Also how is the battery.? I have dual 31 batteries and that's my voltage. Also these are only a few months old.
 
I don't live in the rust belt. Battery is factory original - about 2.5 yrs. old. I see 12.62V - 12.63V after engine has been off for approx. 8 hrs. - ambient temps approx. 70F - 75F.

After starting engine cold first thing in the A.M. - I see 13.97V - 14.05V - engine idling. After the engine has been fully warmed up and while idling, I see 13.40V.
I take these "engine idling" measurements with all accessories off.

My alternator is the OEM 100A species.
 
You might gain something if doing the big 3 upgrade. Also how is the battery.? I have dual 31 batteries and that's my voltage. Also these are only a few months old.

Thanks for the replies.
The battery is brand new. It was consumer reports highest rated. It's an Interstate MTR 34R.
What is "the big 3 upgrade"?
JD
 
this is a simple video. pretty basic, good to do if you are planning to add more accessories.


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gnmXKjm3tZE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
this is a simple video. pretty basic, good to do if you are planning to add more accessories.


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gnmXKjm3tZE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Great!
Already did the battery ground. Now I only need to do the big 2 : )
Thanks.
JD
 
13.6-13.8V is the correct voltage at the battery once the alternator is warm/hot. When cold, it should be 14.2-14.5. Cold batteries can handle higher voltages (and thus charge current) than warm batteries.

If you watch the voltage at the battery at cold start, it will start above 14V, then drop after some time (longer with cold weather, shorter in hot weather).

Your truck is fine.

If you want to be 100% sure, check the voltage drop between battery ground and the alternator body and the voltage drop between battery positive and the main alternator output... both are probably just fine at this point.

-Charlie
 
13.6-13.8V is the correct voltage at the battery once the alternator is warm/hot. When cold, it should be 14.2-14.5. Cold batteries can handle higher voltages (and thus charge current) than warm batteries.

If you watch the voltage at the battery at cold start, it will start above 14V, then drop after some time (longer with cold weather, shorter in hot weather).

Your truck is fine.

If you want to be 100% sure, check the voltage drop between battery ground and the alternator body and the voltage drop between battery positive and the main alternator output... both are probably just fine at this point.

-Charlie
Thanks for the reply. Never saw voltage above 13.6. I suppose it wasn't absolute cold start. I'll check it again in those places.
In retrospect, I regret not buying an oversized battery and then getting an upsized alternator down the road. Too late now though as I just spent the $260 on the Interstate MT7 34R, because I really needed a battery right away.
JD
 

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