Wiring question
- Thread starter Bonedale
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IBallEngineer
New member
Yes, lots of ideas.
First of all, you don't need a switch, unless you want to turn them on when the headlights are off and the doors are closed. All you need is a Bosch Relay.
On the Led lamps, power them with a fused power source, preferably the 15 Amp dome lamp circuit accessible at the driver's side junction block(fuse panel).
Use this same power source to provide 12V to the Bosch Relay, at terminal 85.
Connect the ground side of the relay activation to (Terminal 86) to the ground side of the headlamp circuit. Where you do this will depend on if you have DRL or not. Let me know and I'll guide you to the best spot.
On the relay connect the LED lamp ground circuit to Terminal 30.
On the relay connect Terminal 87A to the door switch circuit intended for the front interior light. This can be done at the light or at the drivers side junction block. Green with Black wire.
Last connection.
On the relay, connect Terminal 87 directly to ground.
Easy Peasy, but if you don't understand any part of this, just ask me and I'll explain it.
opcorn:
IBallEngineer
New member
OK, happy wife, happy life.
Just put an on off switch of your choosing between T30 and power, they will never come on that way.
IBallEngineer
New member
You could also put the switch on either side of the lamp circuit itself. That can give you options on the type of switch you can use. Pretty much anything you want.
GVL
New member
That would apply to 3/4 of the stuff I buy LOL.
Hey Bone, sounds like you are getting some sound advice - IBall is da man I would go to with the same question.
Happy Memorial Day:usa2:
IBallEngineer
New member
The lamp circuit would be anything connected to the LED lamp, from the power source to the lamp, from the lamp to the relay.
Thanks again.
Just out of curiosity, would it be possible to set up a switch for:
on when headlights on, off when door open
off
on when door open, off when headlights on.
Would this be a complete pain in the ass.
This was my original plan, but your way seems way easier. I'm not sure if if its even that important to me, but if it was easy I would do it that way.
Just out of curiosity, would it be possible to set up a switch for:
on when headlights on, off when door open
off
on when door open, off when headlights on.
Would this be a complete pain in the ass.
This was my original plan, but your way seems way easier. I'm not sure if if its even that important to me, but if it was easy I would do it that way.
IBallEngineer
New member
Almost anything is possible, but somethings aren't worth the effort. Let me make sure I understand you first. Just correct me if I'm mistaken.
You want the new lights(LEDS) to come on with the headlights, but turn off if the door opens WHILE the headlights are on.
Then a totally off option.
Then you want the ability to invert it so the LEDS turn on when the door opens but NOT off if the headlights are on.
Is this correct?
:snacker:
sorry, I wasn't clear at all. I just wanted function of the LEDs on when headlights on and LEDs on when doors open to be separate. so:
On when headlights on, when door opens, nothing changes.
Off
On when door opens, when headlights turn on, nothing changes.
This would allow me to leave the switch in the door open, LED on mode, but they would be off when I am driving (my wife may be OK with this idea). If I am by myself, I can flip the switch to LEDS on when headlights are one. I can't spending so much of our time on footwell LEDs.
On when headlights on, when door opens, nothing changes.
Off
On when door opens, when headlights turn on, nothing changes.
This would allow me to leave the switch in the door open, LED on mode, but they would be off when I am driving (my wife may be OK with this idea). If I am by myself, I can flip the switch to LEDS on when headlights are one. I can't spending so much of our time on footwell LEDs.
IBallEngineer
New member
That was what you said in your original post, and that is what I diagramed in my response. Except for the on/off switch, which as I said, you could put inline on either side of the LED's.
I think that there is one difference between what you are describing and what am failing to describe.
Correct me if I'm wrong (and I may be), you are describing a 2 position switch. On/Off. In this situation, if you left the switch on (lets say up): You would open the door, the LEDs would go on. You close the door, the LEDs go off. You turn the headlights on, the LEDs turn on. Down would be off.
I was thinking of using a three way switch. On/Off/On. The operations would be separate. If you left the switch up, you open the doors, nothing happens. You turn the headlights on, the LEDs turn on. Center would be off. If you left the switch down, you open the doors, the LEDs turn on. You close the doors, the LEDs turn off. You turn the headlights on, and the LEDs stay off.
Clear as mud?
This would allow me to have the LEDs on operate with the doors open(and not work with the headlights on), without having to turn the switch off after getting in. Not really that important, but would be nice to be able to do this if it is not a huge pain to wire in that way.
Correct me if I'm wrong (and I may be), you are describing a 2 position switch. On/Off. In this situation, if you left the switch on (lets say up): You would open the door, the LEDs would go on. You close the door, the LEDs go off. You turn the headlights on, the LEDs turn on. Down would be off.
I was thinking of using a three way switch. On/Off/On. The operations would be separate. If you left the switch up, you open the doors, nothing happens. You turn the headlights on, the LEDs turn on. Center would be off. If you left the switch down, you open the doors, the LEDs turn on. You close the doors, the LEDs turn off. You turn the headlights on, and the LEDs stay off.
Clear as mud?
This would allow me to have the LEDs on operate with the doors open(and not work with the headlights on), without having to turn the switch off after getting in. Not really that important, but would be nice to be able to do this if it is not a huge pain to wire in that way.
IBallEngineer
New member
Yup, clear as mud. And very doable, but it will be more involved. I just got done with a long day, lots of sun, my brain is fried. So I'll answer it tomorrow morning if I can. I'm concerned that it may be more than you want to handle, but if you really want to do it, I'll explain it.
:faint:
You may be right, it may be more than I want to handle. I have a few more simple questions (hopefully) about wiring. Maybe you can help me with those first and we can decide if the crazy wiring I want to do is worth it.
#1 I don't have DRLs. Can you help me locate the ground wire?
#2 how do you wire into the fuse box? I have never doe this. I watched a few videos on youtube, and some they looked like pretty sloppy wiring.
#3 I am installing a back up camera. It is universal, so it has a RCA for the back of the stereo, a power and a ground. I don't want that to have power all of the time, right? should I set up a relay using the remote wire from the stereo?
Thanks again for all of your help. Sorry for all for all of the questions, but you obviously know what you are doing, so I figured I would get all of the help I can.
#1 I don't have DRLs. Can you help me locate the ground wire?
#2 how do you wire into the fuse box? I have never doe this. I watched a few videos on youtube, and some they looked like pretty sloppy wiring.
#3 I am installing a back up camera. It is universal, so it has a RCA for the back of the stereo, a power and a ground. I don't want that to have power all of the time, right? should I set up a relay using the remote wire from the stereo?
Thanks again for all of your help. Sorry for all for all of the questions, but you obviously know what you are doing, so I figured I would get all of the help I can.
IBallEngineer
New member
OK, the footwell LED switch isn't terribly complicated for me, I want to make it work as simply as possible, so I will work on that later.
1. The ground wire for the headlights is the Blue with black stripe at the headlight connector, you can also access this wire at the steering column going to the headlight switch connector, Terminal 17.
2. This is a very good question, without a simple answer. In a perfect world you would have new pin/terminals for the wire connectors and you would pull the pin out the one you want, attach the original wire and YOUR New wire to a new pin. Properly crimped or soldered it would be clean and just like OEM. In my world, I opt for door #2.
I would find a spot on the wire a few inches from the connector, and either pull off a 1/2 section of insulation, or cut it and strip both ends. Next I would twist my NEW wire around either cut end, or if you didn't cut around the bare wire. The bare wire I would solder and then tape it up good. If I cut it, I'd crimp a NON INSULATED connector, slip some shrink tube over the wire first, then either solder or not, up to you. The idea is to make a connection that won't be exposed, won't come loose, and won't deteriorate. You DON'T want to go back there. Sadly most people use those half ass Scotch™ locks, pffffffft.
3. For the back up camera you can set up a relay to be powered any way you want. Reverse only, reverse and a switch, a switch only, or ignition. Really no limits, but I'm not sure why you'd want it powered by the stereo, or is it a double din unit with b/u camera options. ??
Thank you once again for all of your help. Just so you know what I am doing- I am replacing my stock stereo with a DVD navigation unit. I am going to put two cameras in (front and rear). I figured that while I was doing that, I would put the LEDs in. I'm going to be wiring an amp, and I am also going to replace the carpet.
1. Were is the easiest location to tap the headlight wire? Is the headlight connecter in the engine bay? I'll be bringing the amp power wire from there anyway. Do I have to take apart the steering column to access it there? I would like to avoid that.
2.Pardon my ignorance, do I just find an open fuse, jam a wire in the back of it, then put a fuse in the front of it? Are those open ports already powered? Or should I just find wire and tap it? If so, which wire?
3. That camera is universal (Clarion), and the stereo is Kenwood. The camera came with a yellow RCA, a power and a ground. The RCA doesn't supply power, right? I would love to just plug into the stereo, and have it turn on when it is supposed to, but I think I need to power it.
As you can tell my wiring knowledge is limited. I have wired amps and neon lights before, and a few projects in my house, but nothing other than that. I appreciate your patience-
1. Were is the easiest location to tap the headlight wire? Is the headlight connecter in the engine bay? I'll be bringing the amp power wire from there anyway. Do I have to take apart the steering column to access it there? I would like to avoid that.
2.Pardon my ignorance, do I just find an open fuse, jam a wire in the back of it, then put a fuse in the front of it? Are those open ports already powered? Or should I just find wire and tap it? If so, which wire?
3. That camera is universal (Clarion), and the stereo is Kenwood. The camera came with a yellow RCA, a power and a ground. The RCA doesn't supply power, right? I would love to just plug into the stereo, and have it turn on when it is supposed to, but I think I need to power it.
As you can tell my wiring knowledge is limited. I have wired amps and neon lights before, and a few projects in my house, but nothing other than that. I appreciate your patience-
IBallEngineer
New member
Well you don't have to take the column apart, just remove some plastic, it really is simple if you are patient. Or just run it from the engine bay, but why run all that wire if you can easily avoid it.
DO NOT jam a wire behind a fuse, When I figure out a good schematic for you, I'll tell you where to get power. Have you already purchased the ON-off-ON switch? Most of those are ugly, or overly simple, but it would be good for me to know the architecture of your switch, or I can try to find one online to recommend.
Yes you must power the camera, but most of those stereos turn on the camera display when it receives power. Do you know the model of the Kenwood head unit? I can research it online and figure out the best way to wire that too.
This really is an easy, and fun project, I've just been running like mad the last few days, and I don't see a break for a few days. But I will work on it, send me a PM with info on your head unit, and switch if you have that. I'll get this done and you will get EXACTLY what you want.
I tried to pm this to you, but the thing just keeps on spinning:
Hi. Thanks again for the help. If I'm ever in your area, I'll buy you a beer (or a case).
Stereo is a Kenwood DNX691HD. The Camera is a Clarion CC510. The stereo does have a wire to tap into the reverse wire. Where is that, by the way? I'm assuming that it runs into the shifter someplace.
I have not bought a on/off/on switch. I would love a recommendation.
My plan is to work on this on June 13th. No big rush. I appreciate the help
Hi. Thanks again for the help. If I'm ever in your area, I'll buy you a beer (or a case).
Stereo is a Kenwood DNX691HD. The Camera is a Clarion CC510. The stereo does have a wire to tap into the reverse wire. Where is that, by the way? I'm assuming that it runs into the shifter someplace.
I have not bought a on/off/on switch. I would love a recommendation.
My plan is to work on this on June 13th. No big rush. I appreciate the help
IBallEngineer
New member
I got the PM, so let's start with the switch. OTRATTW has lots of configurations with interchangeable covers. I'll put in the link here for the switch body, and the pin out separately. Look at the website for a switch rocker that you like. OK.
Also, I looked at how to wire this, and it's going to be much simpler than I originally thought. I will eventually draw it so you can make more sense of it. Right now let's just get the switch solved. Start with the body.
You want part number VJD2UHTB-00000-000
OTRATTW
This switch is over kill for your project, but it has LED lights, which you can choose not to use if you don't want to light the switch.
This is the diagram for the connections on the back of the switch. Print it and save it in case the switch doesn't come with it.
http://www.otrattw.com/wiring/UHT.pdf
In the simplest form, you will only use 4 wires for this switch.
T5 directly to ground
T6 to 87 on the relay
T1 to 87a on the relay.
T2 to the door switch circuit
T1 and T3 are interchangeable, as are T4 and T6. The difference is whether it activates on up or down. But if you use T1 you must use T6, if you use T3, you must use T4, other wise both circuits would be active at the same time.
Like I said, I'll draw it out so it makes more sense.
DONT forget to choose and order a rocker for the switch!
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