Would a corroded fan clutch bearing cause failure?

raKnizek

Member
My truck had an electric fan installed for a while so the metal “terminal” that the fan clutch goes onto has some surface corrosion. I converted back to a mechanical set up and the clutch (which is a used part) seems to not be working properly. What are the odds this corrosion is interfering with when the clutch engages? I sanded back some of the corrosion before installing the clutch but it was a very tight fit.

Thanks!
 
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Absolutely could. The clutch is heat activated. That corrosion could be causing the heat to not properly soak into the clutch which will cause it to not function properly. That or your used clutch could be bad. Or a combo of both. Take it apart, clean it up properly, put it back together, see what happens.
 
The corrosion could be a issue, but since you installed a used clutch that could be
the problem. Have you performed the paper test to see if clutch is operating properly?
The clutch can be serviced by replacing the oil in it, cleaning the internals at same time. I have done the service on clutch when I didn't want to drop $100 on a new one.
 
The corrosion could be a issue, but since you installed a used clutch that could be
the problem. Have you performed the paper test to see if clutch is operating properly?
The clutch can be serviced by replacing the oil in it, cleaning the internals at same time. I have done the service on clutch when I didn't want to drop $100 on a new one.

I ended up ordering a new one but maybe I could replace the oil in the existing one. I didn't try the paper test but I hear the fan for about 10 seconds max on a cold start before it goes away. Under normal operating conditions the SG reads 188-191 which is perfect. I have caught the gauge twice now with the new set up at 210-213 while moving slowly off-road. Those temps themselves are not terribly alarming but at those temps the fan was no more audible than at 188.
 
I ended up ordering a new one but maybe I could replace the oil in the existing one. I didn't try the paper test but I hear the fan for about 10 seconds max on a cold start before it goes away. Under normal operating conditions the SG reads 188-191 which is perfect. I have caught the gauge twice now with the new set up at 210-213 while moving slowly off-road. Those temps themselves are not terribly alarming but at those temps the fan was no more audible than at 188.

The fan clutch does not respond to fluid temp but to ambient air temp behind the radiator. Try the newspaper test. Here is the lowdown from a BMW board that applies perfectly to ours:

Fan Clutch test


First, lets discuss what the fan clutch does and why it is there. The fan clutch is just what the name says, it is a mechanism that will clutch the fan on and off depending on the need for more or less cooling air to flow thru the radiator. It is a thermostatically controlled device that when operating normally will vary the fan speed independently of the engine speed. When cruising down the road at freeway speeds, with outside temperature less then desert conditions, the fan should be merely be idling along, turning just fast enough to add a little air flow when needed, in this way the fan noise and drag on the engine is greatly reduced. When reducing speed, the fan clutch will sense higher temperatures thru the radiator and "clutch up" thereby increasing the fan speed to help maintain constant engine temperature. It may in fact, cycle as the temperature of the air thru the radiator changes depending on airflow. If the fan clutch operation is normal, when first starting the car, the fan clutch should "clutch up" and an increase in noise and airflow should be obvious. After about 60-90 seconds, the fan will un-clutch and the noise and airflow will drop. The fan will continue to turn but at a much reduced speed. As the engine warms and the thermostat opens to regulate the temperature, the air thru the radiator gets hotter and the clutch will sense this, thereby increasing the speed of the fan to maintain a normal operating temperature.
First signs of trouble:
A normal temperature indication at freeway speeds and an increasing temperature as the vehicle slows is one of the first indications of trouble. Many other things may give this indication but if the temperature seems to be stable at speeds but climbs in traffic or while stopped, this is a good indication that the fan clutch isn’t working correctly. As the temperature continues to climb, the auxiliary electric fan should start but may not provide enough air to keep the engine from overheating.
Another sign of trouble is if the fan noise is high and never decreases after starting, and is there anytime the engine RPM is higher then idle, this means that the fan clutch is "frozen" and is not releasing. Although this will not result in immediately serious trouble, it will load the engine continually and gas MPG will be reduced. Load on the fan belt(s) will be higher and shorten the life of that component also.

Testing the fan clutch:

If you have reason to suspect that the fan clutch is defective, here is the recommended procedure to verify the condition of the fan clutch.


1. Start the car (cold) with the hood open and note if the fan is turning, increase the engine RPM and note if the fan turns faster and the noise increases, if it does, first good indication, if it
does not increase speed/noise, clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. (Remember, this must be tested after the car has been off for and extended period, over night etc.)

2. Leave engine running and note if the fan starts to slow down after 2-5 minutes, speed/noise should diminish and even raising the RPM, the fan should not make as much noise as when first starting, if it does slow, this is the second good indication. If speed/noise does not decrease, clutch may be "frozen" and should be replaced.

3. Leave the engine idle and watch the temperature indicator. When normal operating temperature has been reached, some increase in fan speed/noise should be noted, in particular when the RPM is increased. If temperature is fairly stable and the fan noise/speed increases or cycles, third good indication. If temperature indication continues to increase, with no increase in fan noise/speed, clutch is defective and should be replaced.

4. After the engine is at normal operating temperature or above, is the only time that the "rolled up newspaper" test that many people talk about should be performed! Take some newspaper and roll it up into a long narrow tube. Be carefull, keep hands and fingers away from the fan while performing this test! With the engine at full operating temperature and idling, take the rolled up paper and insert it on the back side of the fan and try to reach the hub of the fan avoiding the blades until close to the hub. Push the rolled paper at the fan increasing the friction to the hub area of the fan. If the fan can not be stopped easily this is the fourth good indication, if it can be stopped the clutch is defective and should be replaced. Again, this test can only be performed when the engine is at or above full operating temperature.

Testing can be performed in any order but just make sure the conditions during testing are those that are specified for that specific test.

Do not continue to operate the engine if the temperature continues to rise and certainly stop if the temperature approaches "redline".
 
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Awesome thanks! I had no idea they worked off ambient temp. Thank makes sense now though as I realize the "terminal" I am referencing is not actually connected to anything... I will try these tests out. I appreciate it
 

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