Would you have bought this one..... I just did...

[jazman1]

Sorry about that...I have moved this post to the New members thread. I was out of line posting in your thread.
BTW...great find. Hopefully mine ends up being as legit a deal as your is.

 

[bigdonniebrasco]

Aside from just a "beefier" setup, what is the biggest reason to do the Tundra brake upgrade?

If the brakes were recently done, would you recommend waiting until they need replacing before doing the conversion, and focusing on other maintenance int he meantime?

Thanks!

Congratz! Looking forward to pics and your future maintenance/build thread! Those 5 spoke OEM wheels are begging for a Tundra brake upgrade...

 

[zoombyu86]

Aside from just a "beefier" setup, what is the biggest reason to do the Tundra brake upgrade?

If the brakes were recently done, would you recommend waiting until they need replacing before doing the conversion, and focusing on other maintenance int he meantime?

Thanks!

From my reading, the stock setup just seems to warp really fast. The TBU being thicker rotors will dissipate heat better and not lead to overheating/warping. Most people probably dont even need them but its a good fail-safe. When I bought mine they were already warped. I would say you're good holding off until they actually need swapped.

 

[DK327]

Aside from just a "beefier" setup, what is the biggest reason to do the Tundra brake upgrade?

If the brakes were recently done, would you recommend waiting until they need replacing before doing the conversion, and focusing on other maintenance int he meantime?

Thanks!

From what i can see your 5 spoke OEM wheels should be OK for the upgrade without any slicing and dicing. The rotors are the main concern as they are known to warp, causing some shaking while braking and reduced performance. I would do it right the 1st time and do the 231mm rotors vs the 199mm from/for an 01 Tundra and be done with it, especially since your wheels will accomodate.

I just did mine last month so if you need part number from Amazon, i can provide that info or just look for a Callahan 01 Tundra brake kit which comes with everything you need, minus the brake fluid which should be bled after the brake job. I used DOT4 synthetic.

 

[bigdonniebrasco]

AWESOME... thanks guys!

 

[The Korean]

AWESOME... thanks guys!

Looks great. I just recently picked up a 2000 with 198k for $2800. It has some nicks and scrapes but overall solid. It's my daughter's and I'll drive it for the next 6 months off a day or two a week to work out the bugs. My only problem, is not spending more money than I paid for the whole thing in upgrades and mods.

I'm hoping to get two years for a 1st time driver out of mine, but it has me wanting one of my own now.

 

[TXLX1]

I'll post picts ASAP, but for $3,500 ... would you jump on it of pass it up?

Thanks
Don

You should jump on this especially if you live in a rusty area.

 

[HammerTime]

Y'all must be hard on your brakes, because I haven't had any rotor warping issues with stock brakes. Is $300 plus your time really worth it for a 200k mile truck, when you can buy slotted rotors and slap them on to replace the stock ones?

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

 

[HunterM]

I got to exact same deal in January 2015 and I've had zero regrets

 

[DK327]

Y'all must be hard on your brakes, because I haven't had any rotor warping issues with stock brakes. Is $300 plus your time really worth it for a 200k mile truck, when you can buy slotted rotors and slap them on to replace the stock ones?

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

The problem with OEM rotors warping is a pretty common occurrence from my understanding which also affected the 199mm Tundra rotors until Toyota upgraded the latter to the 231mm which resolved the issue. As for spending money on something that makes the vehicle much safer, at any mileage, well, to each their own... Doing the brake upgrade was my 2nd mod, brand new tires being the 1st...

 

[HammerTime]

Are warped rotors that big of a safety issue though? I just figured that when they warped, I'd feel a bunch of vibrations when using the brakes, and figured I'd just run over to O'Reilly and order some new rotors. It makes sense that some stopping ability would be compromised by the pads not making full contact with the rotors, but would it make a significant difference?

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

 

[bigdonniebrasco]

I went back and looked over the entire service history... for 10 years x 110,000 miles every single service to include oil changes has been at the dealer.

100,000 ago, they did -

DRAIN,CHANGE ENGINE OIL ,ENGINE OIL FILTER. 27 POINT INSPECTION. DRIVE TRAIN-BRA, REPLACE ENGINE AIR FILTER, REPLACE WATER PUMP,TIMING BELT,AND DRIVE BELT, MISC, TECHNICIAN RECOMMENDED SERVICE/REPAIR


Would you suggest I should do the timing belt again ASAP?

Due to time constraints I am just dropping her off at my mechanic tomorrow (day at the spa) So he can go all over it and try ensure that first and foremost... she's SAFE!

I will have him do the lower ball joints, just because I don't know how old the current ones are.

have him at the very least check the timing belt.

Eyeball the radiator, etc.. all the usual suspects, and then I can start doing FUN stuff to it!!

* what is the general consensus on removing or keeping the running boards?

Thanks a lot guys!

 

[hang10]

I went back and looked over the entire service history... for 10 years x 110,000 miles every single service to include oil changes has been at the dealer.

100,000 ago, they did -

DRAIN,CHANGE ENGINE OIL ,ENGINE OIL FILTER. 27 POINT INSPECTION. DRIVE TRAIN-BRA, REPLACE ENGINE AIR FILTER, REPLACE WATER PUMP,TIMING BELT,AND DRIVE BELT, MISC, TECHNICIAN RECOMMENDED SERVICE/REPAIR


Would you suggest I should do the timing belt again ASAP?

Due to time constraints I am just dropping her off at my mechanic tomorrow (day at the spa) So he can go all over it and try ensure that first and foremost... she's SAFE!

I will have him do the lower ball joints, just because I don't know how old the current ones are.

have him at the very least check the timing belt.

Eyeball the radiator, etc.. all the usual suspects, and then I can start doing FUN stuff to it!!

* what is the general consensus on removing or keeping the running boards?

Thanks a lot guys!

I removed mine on the way home when i bought mine........

 

[DK327]

Hammer: I just sleep better at night knowing I have better brakes and won't have to keep replacing rotors but if you're not having issues, I suppose it's not necessary. I was, so I went with the upgrade route and now I don't have to worry about it again for a long time (I hope.)

Donnie: If the timing belt/water pump was done 100K miles ago, I'd say it's time so this should be a priority. LBJ's is a good idea, that's on my to do list as well. Might also want to replace the radiator with Koyorad or OEM, or at least bypass it with a trans cooler to avoid pink milkshake.

I still have the running boards on mine and would like to remove them but I hear doing this might leave bottom of doors susceptible to scratches from debris. Just something to consider...

Also check your rear diff breather next to the pumpkin to see if the top is moving... After 250K miles if it's never been replaced, it might be rusted and/or hole might be closed. From what I understand, If this is not working properly, the pressure can't escape and might end up causing the rear axle seals to leak which is a big repair job. I replaced mine without any issues after lubing up the bolt with seafoam deep creep for a couple of days. It's a $15 part to avoid $1500 repair bill.

 

[bigdonniebrasco]

AWESOME! ... great info and I am writing it all down!!

 

[Jayjayb96]

Agreed. I think 3rd gens are one of the best platforms to start out of. Half the people that bought 5th gens turn into mall crawlers.

Check this out:

You paid $3.5K for a truck that should give you 100K miles with minimum maintenance, more if you put some effort in to keeping it. Even if it eats something large these trucks are comparatively simple compared to new stuff, parts are everywhere and repairs are relatively cheap. A lot of the maintenance can be done in your driveway if you have the time and the patience. Keep the rust away and drive it until you can no longer bear the sight of it. Junk it for $500 at the end and walk away satisfied.

Not so the new truck. At $40K you'd have to drive 1 million miles plus to break even and maintenance is likely to cost you a lot more.

Let's look at it another way. Suppose you were to take your $3.5K and another $4.5K and use it for a down payment on a new 5 Gen. Your payment would rock in at something like $1K per month, $12K per year, 5 years minimum and the value of the truck would drop with every single payment you made.

$12K per year is more than the craziest modder on this board spends on their truck every year - at least after the first year. $12K you don't spend for 4 years = $48K you've saved by buying your 3rd gen.

My Dad always said that the time to buy a new car was when the cost of repairs each month exceeded the cost of payments on a new car. This never happens unless you buy some stupid European thing and particularly never happens with Toyotas.

I think you made a good buy.

 

[GangsterOfLove]

Y'all must be hard on your brakes, because I haven't had any rotor warping issues with stock brakes. Is $300 plus your time really worth it for a 200k mile truck, when you can buy slotted rotors and slap them on to replace the stock ones?

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

Do slotted rotors fix the warping problem?

 

[bigdonniebrasco]

Driving her home right now, I have a grin on my face I should be home in about an hour and a half I will post pictures then

 

[zoombyu86]

Driving her home right now, I have a grin on my face I should be home in about an hour and a half I will post pictures then

Fingers crossed that you don't get a check engine light on the way home from purchase. I drove mine home 2 hours starting at about 1030 pm. Was outraged to see that damn light.

 

[hang10]

Do slotted rotors fix the warping problem?

Rotors don't warp.