WTF - falling gas mileage...

NYRunner: good observation.

I would have thought that the new engine would give better gains on the new 4Runner, considering the EPA rating of +2mpg HWY compared to the single VVTI. Still, it is pretty good, getting approx the same mileage as Tacomas, considering that Tacoma's are 600 LBS less.
 
Ahhh so I'm not the only one...

I traded in a 2007 SR-5 for a 2011 SR-5 hopping to get the same if not better mpg... Unfortunately I only seem to be getting 18mpg were as on my '07 I'd get 21.5 :(.
 
so, in returning to my original post....

I am just about ready for my 15000 "service". I have not reset the MPG calculator since the last service at just over 10000 miles. as it sits right now, i'm looking at 16.2MPG. I have calculated most fill ups, some of them as high as 18, some as low as 14mpg.

I will be having Toyota change the oil (i had 2 free changes on top of the scheduled maintenance) at 15K miles, and would like to have the computer relearn driving habits. Is this something relistic (by disconnecting the battery, or some other voodoo)?

I did this a few times in my Xterra, and it did seem to make a difference. Nissan also had a few procedures for relarning thottle positioning and air/fuel mixtures that many people on the Xterra forum did.

Is there anything like this from Toyota?

also, does the "eco mode" do anything other than flash a little green light? I know it's only based on throttle position (the light), but not sure if the computer does anything else to affect mileage.
 
so, in returning to my original post....

I am just about ready for my 15000 "service". I have not reset the MPG calculator since the last service at just over 10000 miles. as it sits right now, i'm looking at 16.2MPG. I have calculated most fill ups, some of them as high as 18, some as low as 14mpg.

I will be having Toyota change the oil (i had 2 free changes on top of the scheduled maintenance) at 15K miles, and would like to have the computer relearn driving habits. Is this something relistic (by disconnecting the battery, or some other voodoo)?

I did this a few times in my Xterra, and it did seem to make a difference. Nissan also had a few procedures for relarning thottle positioning and air/fuel mixtures that many people on the Xterra forum did.

Is there anything like this from Toyota?

also, does the "eco mode" do anything other than flash a little green light? I know it's only based on throttle position (the light), but not sure if the computer does anything else to affect mileage.

Eco mode only turns on the little light - nothing else.

Resetting your ECU will make some difference now that you have a few miles on it.

Driving habits: Are you in traffic a lot? Remember when you are setting still you get 0 mpg. Are your new tires LT or P? If they are LT you will take a hit on efficiency due to weight of tire being accelerated.

After 30K I am getting, overall, including all the warming up and driving in snow and everything else that kills gas milage about 19.9 mpg overall. This is hand calculated as I have all gas reciepts since new. I have gotten as high as 24 mpg on one tank and as low as 12.3 mpg on another tank. The variance for me is due to driving conditions and nothing more.
 
Eco mode only turns on the little light - nothing else.

Resetting your ECU will make some difference now that you have a few miles on it.

Driving habits: Are you in traffic a lot? Remember when you are setting still you get 0 mpg. Are your new tires LT or P? If they are LT you will take a hit on efficiency due to weight of tire being accelerated.

After 30K I am getting, overall, including all the warming up and driving in snow and everything else that kills gas milage about 19.9 mpg overall. This is hand calculated as I have all gas reciepts since new. I have gotten as high as 24 mpg on one tank and as low as 12.3 mpg on another tank. The variance for me is due to driving conditions and nothing more.

Dude, I was hoping you would respond! you always have good technical answers.

my wife is the primary driver. She has 3 mile drive to work with 4 stop lights. She does this twice a day. I think this is pretty average. on the highway, I try to keep it at 75, but i think 78 is more likely.

the tires are P-metric and weight 1 lb. more per tire than stock. They are the stock size as well, so minimal changes to mileage there.

Regarding resetting the ECU, is there a best practice for doing this correctly?
 
Dude, I was hoping you would respond! you always have good technical answers.

my wife is the primary driver. She has 3 mile drive to work with 4 stop lights. She does this twice a day. I think this is pretty average. on the highway, I try to keep it at 75, but i think 78 is more likely.

the tires are P-metric and weight 1 lb. more per tire than stock. They are the stock size as well, so minimal changes to mileage there.

Regarding resetting the ECU, is there a best practice for doing this correctly?

With those driving habits resetting the ECU will probably give you minimal gains.

So, 6 miles/day with 8 stoplights. Assuming she catches 4 of those lights and stops at the other 4. Accelerating from a stop to a speed then down to stop in 3/4 of a mile (6miles/8stoplights) so she has no sustained speed. Couple that with the fact that she is possibly halfway to work by the time the engine goes out of cold start mode (fuel rich mixture until engine comes up to operating temp) hmmm. You can see why you are getting the worse than average mpgs.
 
Yeah, I figured. Just hoping for better. Maybe I should suggest I drive the 4runner, since i have a nice 11 mile ride to work....hehe.

if i did reset the ECU, is there a best way to drive after doing so? I.e., long stretch of highway at 65mph? in town with minimal fast takeoffs doing 45? keep it under 2000RPM, or something else? or is it a waste of time?

the highway is what gets me. am i crazy to think i should be able to get 20 mpg on the highway at 75 mph?
 
Reset the MPG meter as soon as you hit 75MPH and you will see how bad a hit you're getting at those speeds. Same with before the morning commute. It'll all add up. If you don't have any economical drives you won't get good fuel economy. Generally, you gotta keep it below 70 to get 22+.
 
Yeah, I figured. Just hoping for better. Maybe I should suggest I drive the 4runner, since i have a nice 11 mile ride to work....hehe.

if i did reset the ECU, is there a best way to drive after doing so? I.e., long stretch of highway at 65mph? in town with minimal fast takeoffs doing 45? keep it under 2000RPM, or something else? or is it a waste of time?

the highway is what gets me. am i crazy to think i should be able to get 20 mpg on the highway at 75 mph?

I did not notice where you live. This also cuts into your efficiency.

I can get 20 mpg at 75 mph and you probably can't. Here's why: I normally drive between 1000-4000' for most of the time. The air at sea level has a higher barometric pressure than the altitude where I drive. I will enjoy a better aerodynamic advantage (especially at 75mph) than you and I will use the air conditioner less than you. You also have higher levels of humidity which in turn increases drag, especially at higher speeds.
 
I knew that I was going to take a hit after I went from my 06 Avalon Touring to the 2011 4R but I figured that things would balance out due to the fact that I would be able to run 87 in the 4R where as I was stuck having to run 91 in the Avi. Two things though; in the Avi the MPG would automatically reset itself each time upon starting the car after a fill up and would constantly change (almost real time) depending on if I was in stop and go or Hwy. Neither happens with the 4R and after my first tank of gas from the dealer where I drove 65 or less Hwy from Los Angeles to San Diego and back I averaged 19.5 but since then (three tanks later) I am getting 17.9 despite only driving 30miles a day all Hwy and never going over 65.

Oh well I still look cool in the truck lol
 
So after reading this thread yesterday and being concerned about the on-board MPG display showing decreasing numbers (15-16 mpg), I decided to take the beast on the highway to see if the mpg's would increase. I was extra concerned since I had just gotten my 15000 miles service done (I was worried that the dealership had done something wrong which had caused a drop in the mpgs).
Anyway, I am happy to report that the mpgs went right up and I got 24 mpg on a 20 minute drive. After coming back to the city, I reset the thing for the changed driving conditions and since then it has been showing a consistent 19-19.8 mpgs (the usual for my city driving since I bought the beast :)
 
My mileage varies greatly with the brand of gas I use, more specifically "no-name" gas, like from 7-11, nets me 3-4 less MPG on average. I haven't figured out if the cost/gallon savings is worth it. To me, range is more important than saving a few bucks @ fillup if that makes sense. Just my 2centsworth.

Same story here Costco, shell, petro Canada and esso gave me poor mileage as soon as I put chevron it was sitting at 13.6 l/100kms. Than I put chevron 94 octane with no ethanol and felt like I was in my TDI, it's sitting at 10 liters/100kms. With 94 octane I had my truck giving me 5.8 liters/100 kms for few minutes, and than the right foot got heavy .
 
My mileage varies greatly with the brand of gas I use, more specifically "no-name" gas, like from 7-11, nets me 3-4 less MPG on average. I haven't figured out if the cost/gallon savings is worth it. To me, range is more important than saving a few bucks @ fillup if that makes sense. Just my 2centsworth.

AGREED !!! I mentioned Gas in a thread post and was immediately TOLD ALL gas is the same like I'm an idiot.
I absolutely get better gas mileage with name brand/ more refined higher quality gas. Better performance and less problems like with the fuel delivery system.
 
AGREED !!! I mentioned Gas in a thread post and was immediately TOLD ALL gas is the same like I'm an idiot.
I absolutely get better gas mileage with name brand/ more refined higher quality gas. Better performance and less problems like with the fuel delivery system.

Here are some facts:

Supply Arrangements and Ownership Structures

Retailers pursue different marketing strategies to gain a competitive advantage, and one key component is the nature of their fuel supply arrangements. Some choose to sell motor fuel under the brand of their supplying refiner, others choose to establish their own brand. Finally, there remain a few sites that are directly owned and operated by the major oil company or the refining company itself, but these are becoming much less common.


1.Major Integrated Oil Company Owned and Operated: Less than 2 percent of the 115,340 convenience stores that sell gasoline in the United States are owned and operated by the major oil companies. These retail locations receive product directly from the corporation’s refinery assets and their profit or loss is integrated into that of the corporation.

2.Refining Company Owned and Operated. Approximately 2.5 percent of convenience store gasoline retail locations are owned and operated by non-major refining companies. These also product directly from the corporation’s refinery assets and their profit or loss is integrated into that of the corporation.

3.Branded Independent Retailer: Approximately 44.5 percent are independently owned and operated and sell gasoline under the brand name of the fuel supplier. The business owners sign a supply contract to sell only one brand of fuel at any particular location. Branded retailers pay a slight surcharge per gallon for using the refiner’s brand, benefiting from the supplier’s marketing and ensuring a more secure supply of product. This surcharge can vary from contract to contract for any variety of reasons but in all cases, the refiner supplier establishes the retailer’s wholesale costs. Branded independent retailers benefit, however, when supplies are constrained by securing a higher level of priority for accessing product, although access to supplies may be restricted.

4.Unbranded Independent Retailer: The remaining 51 percent of convenience gasoline retailers are operated by independent business owners who do not sell gasoline under a brand owned or controlled by a refining company. These retailers purchase gasoline from the unbranded wholesale market, which is made up of gallons not dedicated to fulfill a refiner’s contracts. These retailers do not pay a marketing surcharge like their branded competitors do; consequently, unbranded gasoline is typically sold at all levels of trade for a lower price than branded gasoline. However, when supplies are constrained, these retailers have the lowest level of priority to access gasoline, often incur the largest wholesale price increases and may be completely denied access to product. Their wholesale costs are also established by the refiner supplier(s).

This data is valid and current.

To summarize, if you buy gas at a store with no "Exxon" "BP" "Amoco" "Shell" or other name brand signage it could be any of those name brands. The reason it is a bit cheaper at those locations with no name brand signage is no marketing fees and it could be any brand. I personally have bought gasoline at all four types of retail stores and have NOT noticed any corrolation between brands (or lack of) and fuel efficiency, especially not up to 15-20% difference as some claim.

Different brands of gasoline are very close to being the same because of government regulations on refining and additives. The "Techron" and "cleaners" are marketing strategies, nothing else. All gasoline blends have them per 1994 EPA regulations.

This data is from NCSA and is current through 2010. The number of wholly owned brand gasoline stores has decreased since.

Refined gasoline is not "all the same" but it is damn close. Good luck.
 
But but we want to believe the higher price is really buying something !

I'm work for a major refined products pipeline company (one of the two whose systems are controlled from Atlanta) and can tell you that it is all generic and fungible at our level and same with our competitor pipelines. We both dump product into the same tanks at the truck terminals. We call gasoline RBOB (worth a google).

Certainly ethanol is kicks the mileage down and if I had a choice I'd get gas without ethanol in it. Can't find it anywhere I go.
 
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But but we want to believe the higher price is really buying something !

I'm work for a major refined products pipeline company (one of the two whose systems are controlled from Atlanta) and can tell you that it is all generic and fungible at our level and same with our competitor pipelines. We both dump product into the same tanks at the truck terminals. We call gasoline RBOB (worth a google).

Certainly ethanol is kicks the mileage down and if I had a choice I'd get gas without ethanol in it. Can't find it anywhere I go.

Try chevron 94 octane. Here in Vancouver we get ot and no ethanol in it.
 
It hasn't been mentioned, but it should be noted that a new engine will get significantly worse mileage than a broken in engine - especially in the first 5 to 10 thousand miles.

When I bought my 2008 Tacoma (similar engine), I had horrid gas mileage to start. It wasn't until about 30k or so that I began to remarkable improvement with my gas mileage.

Give it time, people. Your rig will come around.
 
It's probably your location. I currently live in LA - a similar driving hellhole. I can get decent mpg on the freeways - but it doesn't take long in stop and go traffic to pull that average way down. They say 17mpg city or whatever but that's a best case scenario cruising around a city. If your stopping and starting at every block you travel your going to get well below 15mpg - closer to 13mpg. So even if 3/4 of your tank went to freeway driving @ 20Mpg, 1/4 of a tank in heavy city conditions will drag your average way way down.
 
17 city is completely BS, I think I got around 13 to 14, highway 23 is hard to achieve either, I've only seen it once when driving downhill for an hour. In average, I'm getting 18.x mpg combined.
 

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