XenonDepot Xtreme LED High Beam Kit

[JasonKoko]

Any update on getting these dimmed? I have the putco silver lux, which are exactly the same as these and someone in front of me thought they were too bright.

I have been running this with the anti-flicker module removed for weeks now and it's been fine. The flicker is really only noticeable close up and if you're looking right at them.

They are definitely dimmer.


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[cheerup38]

Thanks I will give it a try.

Do the High beams still go at full power/brightness?

 

[tpetsch]

This link may be helpful to some of you concerning the "LED" High Beam / DRL issues mentioned in the above posts.

You "could" just disable the DRL system.

Cam across this earlier, confirmation here by Saker.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/169979-drl-disable-but-keep-auto-headlights-4.html#post1978748

 

[cheerup38]

I have been running this with the anti-flicker module removed for weeks now and it's been fine. The flicker is really only noticeable close up and if you're looking right at them.

They are definitely dimmer.


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I've tried it and it is dimmer but I am not too keen on that flickering...Any word from the folks over at XD?

One would think that there should be a low power drl mode on these leds.:dammit:

 

[bofa]

Bump!

[MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] any luck addressing the drl flicker?

 

[headpaneer]

I have a question. Is dimming the high beam lamp to serve the purpose as a DRL unique to the current 4Runners? I do not notice this on other cars on the road but have not really looked either.

Dimming an incandescent lamp is easy. Dimming LEDs of any sort without flicker, requires a purposely designed, more sophisticated (+$) driver circuit that must also be compatible with the dimming signal. Take a look at the plethora of screw-in LED replacement lamps on the shelves at retail stores and you will see some that denote on the packaging that they are “dimmable”. Screw a non-dimming LED lamp into a fixture in your home, and you are very likely to see herky-jerky dimming/flashing as you slide your dimmer; not a smooth transition from bright to low. And when left at a static dimmed level (as what happens in our 4Runners), flicker is very common.

While I am not an electrical engineer, I do work in the architectural lighting industry and there used to be a lot of compatibility issues between the dimmers and the drivers that operate LED sources. That issue has substantially improved these days but the same cannot be said for the low cost driven, retail lighting market.

If only a handful of vehicle models use this cheap-out approach of dimming the high beam lamp for DRL use, then I would be surprised if Xenon Depot will go through the expense to re-engineer the electronics in their product to remedy the flicker.

 

[bofa]

I have a question. Is dimming the high beam lamp to serve the purpose as a DRL unique to the current 4Runners? I do not notice this on other cars on the road but have not really looked either.

Dimming an incandescent lamp is easy. Dimming LEDs of any sort without flicker, requires a purposely designed, more sophisticated (+$) driver circuit that must also be compatible with the dimming signal. Take a look at the plethora of screw-in LED replacement lamps on the shelves at retail stores and you will see some that denote on the packaging that they are “dimmable”. Screw a non-dimming LED lamp into a fixture in your home, and you are very likely to see herky-jerky dimming/flashing as you slide your dimmer; not a smooth transition from bright to low. And when left at a static dimmed level (as what happens in our 4Runners), flicker is very common.

While I am not an electrical engineer, I do work in the architectural lighting industry and there used to be a lot of compatibility issues between the dimmers and the drivers that operate LED sources. That issue has substantially improved these days but the same cannot be said for the low cost driven, retail lighting market.

If only a handful of vehicle models use this cheap-out approach of dimming the high beam lamp for DRL use, then I would be surprised if Xenon Depot will go through the expense to re-engineer the electronics in their product to remedy the flicker.

That may be true, but when they charge a premium i think its reasonable to expect premium features/components. Otherwise, there's tons of other options.

FWIW 80% of the lights in my house are LED now and i have dimmers in 4 rooms and none have noticible flicker.I was just sure to get dimmable bulbs and dimmers compatible with dimmable LEDs. Those didnt cost much more - just took a bit of reading.

Not knocking XD at all btw. Just want to make sure i understand my options.

 

[Liquidmantis]

The problem is that that 4R is controlling the dimming circuitry, not XD. The PWM duty rate is whatever Toyota has designed, and they've done it for a non-LED bulb.

I too have LEDs throughout my house and even on non-dimmer circuits our original LED bulbs had an annoying strobing that drove one of my sons and me mad. We replaced them with more expensive bulbs which aren't nearly as noticeable. I assume this is due to the cheaper bulbs being non-rectified and thus strobing at 60 Hz whereas the more expensive ones have a rectifier and strobe at 120 Hz. But either bulb using an efficient PWM digital dimmer not designed for LEDs have extreme flickering issues. LED-compatible dimmers I would guess have a much higher frequency duty cycle such that the overall lit time ratio is the same but the dark phase is extremely brief. Since Toyota intended the DRL lights to be halogen there's no need for the 4R to have an LED-compatible dimmer.

This is beyond my limited electrical knowledge, but as far as I know for XD to solve the issue would require a dual rail solution with a switched 12v supply rail and a DAC adapting the existing PWM cycle rate to either pure analog or a higher-frequency equivalent PWM rate. They don't currently control the dimmer circuit and any solution would be much more invasive rather than a simple drop-in replacement.

Or maybe it's just the bourbon talking. Stay tuned and I'll tackle the national debt.

 

[bofa]

Or maybe it's just the bourbon talking. Stay tuned and I'll tackle the national debt.

The ipad wouldnt let me quote your whole post and reply so i trimmed it to the good part. My kinda dude!

Keep in mind Jeep headlights also use a fairly annoying PWM system that share a single harness for hi/low and companies make modules to correct that for their HID and LED products. I'm pretty sure XenonDepot sells them. I have to imagine one for our DRL isnt too out of reach.

 

[XenonDepot]

As many mentioned it's not just "low-votlage" -- it's a pulsing signal. If it was just low voltage then it would be significantly easier to overcome.

 

[bofa]

As many mentioned it's not just "low-votlage" -- it's a pulsing signal. If it was just low voltage then it would be significantly easier to overcome.

How does this differ from the pwm issue in the wrangler low/high? Would a similar "decoder" module work? Jeep Wrangler LED Decoder | H13 to H4 LED Anti-Flicker Adaptor

 

[XenonDepot]

How does this differ from the pwm issue in the wrangler low/high? Would a similar "decoder" module work? Jeep Wrangler LED Decoder | H13 to H4 LED Anti-Flicker Adaptor

Very similar, but the decoder doesn't cause the bulb to operate "dimmer", it just ensures that the bulb doesn't flicker while it's on.

Steve

 

[bofa]

Very similar, but the decoder doesn't cause the bulb to operate "dimmer", it just ensures that the bulb doesn't flicker while it's on.

Steve

Ah, so the h13 led doesnt use different wattage for hi/low

 

[Foques]

is there a link to this kit?

 

[flyfisher4822]

use caution, if you're running projector housings they're not as bright as you think!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/203360-xenondepot-hid-vs-led-initial-photo.html

/\ This!

 

[WaldoOneFive]

Uhhh, not what I suggested....

YMMV

I see this was never addressed since the posts on Pages 2 and 3... What was the final word?

One says 3/9 oclock is best, the other said that 12/6 was best..

I was thinking 3/9 as [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] said, but OP [MENTION=137794]JasonKoko[/MENTION] said that 12/6 was better. Final verdict?

 

[Saker]

I see this was never addressed since the posts on Pages 2 and 3... What was the final word?

One says 3/9 oclock is best, the other said that 12/6 was best..

I was thinking 3/9 as [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] said, but OP [MENTION=137794]JasonKoko[/MENTION] said that 12/6 was better. Final verdict?

I tried it in both positions to determine the best "forward" light output as well as high beam flood.
I still stand by my position. No pun intended.

I hope this helps.

 

[WaldoOneFive]

I tried it in both positions to determine the best "forward" light output as well as high beam flood.
I still stand by my position. No pun intended.

I hope this helps.

It does, and I appreciate the help!


.

 

[Liquidmantis]

Received my XD LED high beam kit today. I ordered with the no-flicker adapter but went ahead and tried without it. That flicker is no joke! Although like I mentioned above I'm sensitive to that sort of thing.

I only put one in so that I can compare the output this evening.

 

[bofa]

Received my XD LED high beam kit today. I ordered with the no-flicker adapter but went ahead and tried without it. That flicker is no joke! Although like I mentioned above I'm sensitive to that sort of thing.

I only put one in so that I can compare the output this evening.

Yeah, there was a noticable strobe for me too. I can only imagine passing a cop with that happening. :mod:

I didnt order the modules and just disabled the drl. Ill be interested to see what you think. My fear was that they dont dim so they will be too bright and obnoxious.