y=mx+b's Build Thread

[y=mx+b]

Introduction
This is a "build" thread for my 2005 Toyota 4runner SR5 v6. Its not really a "build" right now, but I figure before I get too deep into the maintenance and mods, I should start some documentation to record my progress and help some others out. I am a regular dude without any fancy tools (yet) that hopefully can inspire you to do some basic maintenance and eventually off road mods. Getting into home maintenance was daunting for me, so I want to make everything feel as approachable as possible. Don’t hesitate to ask any questions!

Outside of 4running, I am a Mechanical Engineering Student. I really enjoy learning with my hands, and there is a lot to learn from the engineers that designed the 4runner. Sometimes it's easy to get caught up in the school work, but making connections to my hobbies keeps me engaged and more excited to learn more. After graduating, I’m hoping to earn a hands-on engineering job that makes me excited to go to work every day!

How it Currently Looks
Installed some Kenda Klever 35x10.5s!


Older Pics
Just added some Dobinsons Suspension!




Some older pics at stock height:
<a href="https://imgur.com/8aV2lJx"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8aV2lJxl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/aU8dkVT"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/aU8dkVTl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
Pretty much all stock at the moment. Currently have some Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws Mounted on FJ Cruiser/Early 5th gen Trail Wheels. See this post here: New Wheels and Tires!



Background
I had recently gotten my driver's license and was wanting to purchase my own vehicle. I had been saving a lot from my job at the Home Depot and custom woodworking on the side, so I was ready. I really wanted a pickup truck to be able to haul woodworking materials, so that's where I began looking. My initial vehicle of choice was an extended cab Ford Ranger. Mom was not on board with this, because a dinky little RWD pickup truck did not seem safe by her standards. Mom’s have the best intentions for their children, listen to them! My family has owned 2 Siennas with good luck and reliability, a 2000 and 2005, so I started looking into Toyotas. Unfortunately, that meant my wallet had to stretch even further. As everyone knows, Tacoma’s are way overpriced so I never even looked too hard. Tundras on the other hand, are a lot cheaper than Tacomas and have more space. I looked at a few, but all of the ones in my area still had the truck tax.

Eventually, I came to the 4runner as a compromise between the carrying capacity of a pickup, and the affordability of an mid-size SUV. The roll down window allowed me to carry 8-10’ foot lumber and I could get plywood cut to fit with the tailgate closed. For anything bigger, I could use the Sienna. After carefully searching and test driving a few, I a relatively clean 2005 Dorado Gold Pearl SR5 v6 4wd with 185k miles. It’s 4wd high, low, and center diff worked, the dash wasn’t cracked, and the dealer was going to replace the front CVs, front wheel bearings, restore headlights, and some other things that I knew were going to be expensive.

Making the Purchase!
<a href="https://imgur.com/7PK6iDX"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/7PK6iDXl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/8PJHEKt"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8PJHEKtl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/kOuo7sF"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/kOuo7sFl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/Mc9nNNV"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Mc9nNNVl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
The Penn State sticker and rust on the hitch should have been a red flag, but I didn't understand as much about vehicles then, as I do now. I'll elaborate on these items later.

It felt really good to have paid for my own first vehicle, even if it wasn’t the nicest or newest car in the high school parking lot. Overall, it was in great condition for an 11 year old vehicle. I have daily driven it ever since purchase, but only recently became interested in wrenching on it. A few bigger maintenance items, like an alternator and seized calipers, made me realize how much I can save by doing the work myself. This thread will aim to document all the maintenance and modifications I do to this vehicle.

<a id="directory"></a>Mod, Maintenance, and Project Directory (Links Jump in Thread)

• 230k+ Miles- This one has taken 16 years, and I'm still not done yet!

Wheels, Tires, Suspension

• <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#lcabushing" >Whiteline LCA Bushings, OEM Caster/Camber Bolts, and Ball Joints</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-3.html#fjwildpeaks" >265/70r17 Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws on FJ Cruiser/Early 5th Gen Trail Wheels</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-5.html#stretchliner" >Stretch Front Fender Liners</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-10.html#dobinsonnitro" >Dobinsons Nitro Shocks with Rear Long Travel and Flex Testing!</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-11.html#pck" >Panhard Correction Kit</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-15.html#351050" >35x10.5 Kenda Klevers</a>

Drivetain: Engine, Transmission, Axles, 4wd Components

• <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#diffs" >Differential and Transfer Case Fluid</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#cvreboot" >CV Axle Reboot/Rebuild</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#cvreplace" >CV Axle, Differential seal, and Knuckle Seal Replacement</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-2.html#oldcv" >Old CV Axle Teardown for Science</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-6.html#radflush" >Radiator Flush</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-11.html#transcooler" >Transmission Cooler Install</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-11.html#transdrainfill" >Transmission Drain and Fill</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-15.html#snork" >Dobinson Snorkel Install</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-15.html#wipertank" >Windshield Wiper Tank Relocation</a>

Oil Change Data

• <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#oilchange205" >205k miles - 4k interval - Whatever Oil Firestone Used - Changed to Castrol High Mileage Synthetic Blend 5w-30</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-4.html#oilchange213" >213k miles - 4k interval - Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic 5w-30 - Changed to Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic 5w-30</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-8.html#oilchange221" >221k miles - 4k interval - Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic 5w-30 - Changed to Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5w-30 Made from Natural Gas</a>

Body/Frame

• <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#actuator" >Door Lock Actuator Replacement (Driver Rear)</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-5.html#lockactuator2" >Door Lock Actuator Replacement #2 (Passenger Rear)</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-17.html#lockactuator3" >Door Lock Actuator Replacement #3 (Driver Front)</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#tankstrap" >Fuel Tank Strap Replacement</a> and <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html-9.html#tankskidrework" >New Strap Pin Install + Skid Fixing</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#rustexperiment" >Rust Mitigation #1</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-2.html#acdrainrust" >Rust Mitigation #2 and Relocating A/C Drain</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-5.html#rust3" >Rust Mitigation #3</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-17.html#midframerust" >Mid Frame Rust Removal and Patch</a>

Lighting and Electrical

• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-7.html#06headlights" >06+ OEM Projector Upgrade</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-4.html#interiorled" >LED Interior Lights</a>

Interior and Creature Comforts

• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-7.html#seatjackers" >DesertDoesIt Seat Jackers</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-9.html#accondenser" >A/C Condenser Replacement and Refrigerant Recharge</a>

Steering

• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-2.html#psflush" >Power Steering Flush</a>

Brakes

• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-10.html#rearbrakelines" >Rear Brake Hardline Replacement</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-11.html#rearpadsJune2021" >Rear Pad Change - 121k Toyota Pad Life!</a>

Metal Protecty Thingys

• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-6.html#skidfiller" >Front Bumper Cover Filler Skid</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-6.html#tnfrecoverypts" >True North Fabrication's Front Recovery Points</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-8.html#frontskid" >Custom Front Skid Plate Build</a> and <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-9.html#frontskidinstall" >Install</a>
• Front Skid V2: Pending Writeup
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-15.html#sliders" >4x Innovations DOM Rock Sliders</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-17.html#spindlegusset1" >1/2 Gusseted Spindles</a>
• Transmission and Transfer Case Skids: Haven't started yet, but soon!

Accessories

• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-17.html#pooreagle" >Poor Eagle Jack</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-19.html#tandemtosingle" >Bike Rack Mods</a>

Off-Roading

• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-5.html#AOAAJan2021" >My First Time Off-Road at AOAA + Radiator Damage</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-6.html#AOAAMarch2021" >Redemption at AOAA + Making Friends through T4R!</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-7.html#WolfDenRunMarch2021" >Wolf's Den Run and My First Blue Trail</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-10.html#SleepyCreekJune2021" >Sleepy Creek with the TacomaWorld Northern Virginia Roll Call Group</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-11.html#FlagpoleJuly2021" >Flagpole Knob Camping in the Trunk</a>
• <a target="_self" href="!m287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread-18.html#3pooches31221" >3Pooches Farm: Barely any Snow, mostly Mud</a>

Laundry List (No Particular Order)

• Regear to 4.88 and add Lockers
• Continue Rust Mitigation
• Rebuild Front Skid Mount
• Rear Diff Breather Relocation
• Marlin Crawler Cam Tab Gussets
• Semi-Permanently mount my Smittybilt 2781
• Repaint Hood?
• Custom Dirt Bike Hitch Carrier Lift?
• Coastal Offroad Front Bumper or something custom?
• NWTI Rear Bumper or something custom?

My Thread Plans
I am currently doing a bunch of maintenance items, so eventually there will be some juicy off road articulating, wheel well trimming, tire rubbing, body mount chopping, bumper fabbing goodness. I think I’m going to have this setup where I put some nice pictures and explanations in the build thread and do individual threads for really any in-depth writeups. This will be easier for people to find write-ups / tutorials, and everyone else can get the highlights right here. I already have a thread for the door lock actuator and bushing install, so these will be my experiment.

 

[y=mx+b]

Pre-Build Thread
Plastidip | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
3 years into owning the 4runner, I discovered this forum. Seeing all the cool builds, I wanted to spice mine up a bit. I liked the look of the black on tan from Dusty Driftwood, and Plastidip was something easy that I could do. I plastidipped all the badges, the rear valence piece, and the chrome grill. I only took a few pics, since I never envisioned myself making a thread like this. Also peep the Toyoda sticker, it sounded like a good idea when I was 16, but maybe not so much anymore lol.
<a href="https://imgur.com/GXZpzND"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/GXZpzNDl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/QI5yBfr"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/QI5yBfrl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Adjusting the Parking Brake | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
Like a moron, I never used the parking brake because it didn’t seem to do much. Eventually, I got smart and realized how a parking brake can relieve stress on your parking pawl. To address its poor function, I decided to adjust the parking brake in my school apartment parking lot. This was the first real wrenching project on the 4runner, so I bought my first floor jack and stands. It doesn't sound like a big milestone, but having these tools opens up a lot of project opportunities.
<a href="https://imgur.com/rbus7VP"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/rbus7VPl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a id="oilchange205">My Own Oil Change on My Own! | 205k miles - 4k interval - Castrol High Mileage Synthetic Blend 5w-30</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
At this point in time, the 4runner has 205k. There was 4k on the old oil from Firestone, so I decided I wanted to change the oil and use a better filter than their small crappy Pennzoil ones. I bought a case of 5 Toyota 90915-YZZD3 filters, a 10 pack of the drain plug washers, and Castrol High Mileage Synthetic Blend 5w-30. I got an oil analysis report from Blackstone Laboratories and it showed 126ppm Potassium and 59ppm Sodium, signs of a potential head gasket leak. They advised that it is not a big leak, but repeat that interval and keep an eye on it. On the next 4k change at 209k, I used Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic 5w-30 and got another report. Oddly enough, the numbers dropped to 50ppm Potassium and 28ppm Sodium. It dropped low enough that Blackstone Labs thought that I fixed it and those numbers were residual. No misfires on startup after sitting, starts right up after sitting for a few days due to this modern apocalypse. I’m keeping an eye on it and definitely going to do it the right way when the time comes. It is a build date 6/05 so I am on the old head gasket design.
<a href="https://imgur.com/SjTbN6L"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/SjTbN6Ll.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
This pic is on jack stands, it's not actually lifted like that.

<a id="diffs">Differential and Transfer Case Fluid</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
I needed another project to do, and this seemed like a good idea. I used the tutorial found here: Changing Differential & Transfer Case Fluids - Pics Included. From what I fetched on the Toyota Owners site, these were last changed around 110k at the dealer by the previous owner. At 207k, these were overdue. I bought 8qts of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 75w-90 and an off-brand drain plug washer set. I started with the rear fill, using a 12 point 24mm socket because it's what I had. Anyone who has done this before can see how that worked out. The dumb fill plug doesn’t have any corners on it anyway, so I just rounded it some more. I went out and bought a proper 6 point 24mm and a 6 point 15/16in (=23.8mm) to get this done. I also got a replacement fill bolt from the parts department at the local dealer. After that, everything was smooth sailing with the rear and transfer case. I did need to use a pump for the transfer case, but I could just turn the bottle upside down for the rear. Here is the new plug on my crustnado 4runner, what a nice contrast:
<a href="https://imgur.com/Ye5oiib"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Ye5oiibl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Now to the front, which was not as simple. I broke a bunch of skid plate bolts on the way in, which was not a good start. I drilled and re-tapped the holes for m8x1.25, got new fasteners, and some anti-seize. Onto the diff, the fill came out without issue, but the drain was really stuck. I ground the 10mm hex flat on the end, used a bunch of heat, a breaker bar, but it eventually stripped. Following this, I gave up for a bit. A few weekends later, I bought the Titanium Flux 125 on sale at Harbor Freight to fix a broken seat bracket on Mom's 2005 Sienna. Not the best welder out there, but for the price, its a decent first welder. Now that I had a welder, I welded a nut onto my drain bolt. With the concentrated heat from the weld and better grip on a big nut, the plug came out without issue. I was then able to pump the fluid in like normal.
<a href="https://imgur.com/tp4HUF0"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/tp4HUF0l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/sTj1DNq"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/sTj1DNql.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/ewXmkGi"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ewXmkGil.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a id="actuator">Door Lock Actuator Replacement</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
I did do a write-up on this already and it can be found here: 4th Gen Door Lock Actuator Replacement: Step by Step with Pictures.
I hadn’t found an in depth write-up on doing this, only a few mediocre youtube videos that didn’t really show everything. I wanted to have something that a novice wrencher, like me, could refer back to.

I ended up getting a whole actuator assembly, rather than replacing the little actuator motor. I was just starting to gain confidence to do more in depth projects, so it was safer and easier to get the whole unit. This project was pretty rewarding, because there was a noticeable difference when everything was all said and done. Oil and fluid changes don’t make it feel any different, but regaining the ability to use the left rear door sure feels much better. This job wasn’t too hard and I definitely would encourage anyone to do this themselves!
<a href="https://imgur.com/njCmFU4"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/njCmFU4l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/McBadpi"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/McBadpil.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

[y=mx+b]

<a id="rustexperiment">Rust Mitigation Part 1</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
My 4runner is a bit crusty underneath, and I want to do all I can to preserve it. I have not found any holes in the actual frame parts, but there is a bad spot up where the front skid plate attaches. I want to go over the entire frame and do some serious rust prevention and correction. I do have a welder and lots of time on my hands, so I'm ready!

Experimental Phase
I began this process a few months ago by doing a surface prep experiment for POR15 on the driver side wheel well. I figured this was an easy place to start, and it got a decent amount of action to test the longevity. I bought a big ol' needle scaler from Harbor Freight and went to town removing crusties on that wheel well. Starting left, I just had needle scaled the crust off and scuffed with whatever sandpaper I had, just right to the right of the shock tower I got like 50% paint off with a wire wheel, and closest to the body mount I had cleaned down to bare metal. Not seen is the LCA that got no scuffing and a poor needle scale job as a control.
<a href="https://imgur.com/T2IEeO3"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/T2IEeO3l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/25ciDM8"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/25ciDM8l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

The whole area was then cleaned with soapy water and etched with a 3:1 dilution of water and Klean-Strip Concrete Etch & Metal Prep + Rust Inhibitor. I then put 2 coats of POR15 on, sanding in between coats, and finally covering in some Rustoleum Flat Black rattle can that I had laying around. I was worried about getting paint on the fasteners for the LCA bolts and ball joint, so it turned out sloppy and some areas were unpainted. Now that I am picking back up on the project, I have some new ideas to get this done properly.
<a href="https://imgur.com/CJWXwRS"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/CJWXwRSl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Experiment Outcome (Will update)
Scuffed Paint Only - Seems to be adhered well, but I want to give it some time to get a solid answer. Might take an angle grinder to it and see how easy it comes off. Will be updated before I do the rest of the frame.
50% Paint removed, scuffed, and etched - Seems to be adhered well, but I want to give it some time to get a solid answer. Might take an angle grinder to it and see how easy it comes off. Will be updated before I do the rest of the frame.
100% Paint removed, scuffed, and etched - Seems to be adhered well, but I want to give it some time to get a solid answer. Might take an angle grinder to it and see how easy it comes off. Will be updated before I do the rest of the frame.
Control - Not peeling really, but could be picked off with my fingers. Came off very easily with power washer and grinder when doing LCA bushings.

Passenger Side
This side was worse than the driver side, mostly because the A/C drain spits out everything onto the frame. Maybe I’m missing some tubing, but this seems like a dumb design (Fixed it here: A/C Drain Relocation). After the first needle scaling pass, this is what I was left with.
<a href="https://imgur.com/ICTlvnM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ICTlvnMl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/rG7Iqm8"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/rG7Iqm8l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

And here is the rough spot. I hear this place rusts out all the time on northern 4runners and there are no holes in the main frame, so I’m not too worried about it. Once I get a tad better at welding this summer, I’ll remake that whole entire front skid plate mount.
<a href="https://imgur.com/lrStbdo"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/lrStbdol.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

A Slippery Slope to Front End Rebuild
I have a torn CV boot on the passenger side, and I want to replace it myself. The dealer supposedly replaced both when I bought it, but I think my worn suspension is causing the boots to rub. To get the cv out, you have to remove some LCA bolts from the knuckle. This got me thinking that I should just remove the LCA to get everything properly stripped down. The LCAs are also rusty around the bushing area, and there are some areas blocked by their mounting tabs. Furthermore, the cams are seized and bushings could be original with 210k miles on them, so everything in there needed to be replaced. I decided to take the plunge on the bushing and cam replacement.
<a href="https://imgur.com/VNJEKw0"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/VNJEKw0l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/muVWHz9"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/muVWHz9l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

[y=mx+b]

The Build Thread was initiated after I completed the Bushings, so after this point is current with the date of posting

<a id="lcabushing">LCA Rebuild with Whiteline LCA Bushings</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
Full LCA Bushing Install and Rebuild Tutorial: Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)
I already have a full detailed tutorial on this, but wanted it to be documented in the build thread as well. The process is broken down into 10 steps, and there is a good directory system to move between steps, I am pretty proud of that feature. If you follow that tutorial, please post a few pictures in a reply, I want to see your progress and final outcome! It was in the 4th gen section for a few days, but has been moved to a Sticky in Maintenance/Detailing! Let me know if you need any help with the Whitelines, I would be happy to help. Here is an abridged version with all the best gory pictures! Each step in the build thread will have a link to to the tutorial thread for more information.

Before and After
<a href="https://imgur.com/bdzcR2i"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/bdzcR2il.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/w9jUaog"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/w9jUaogl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a id="cut">Parts</a> | <a target="_blank" href="!286971!maintenance-detailing/286971-whiteline-lower-control-arm-bushing-tutorial-120-pictures.html#parts">View in Full Tutorial</a>

• Whiteline LCA Bushing kit W53312: From Whiteline Directly or from Amazon
• OEM Caster Camber Bolts, see this post for PNs: Need Cam Bolts and Sleeves? - OEM Part #s
• Import Direct Chassis Ball Joint #BJ06050 from O'Reilly Auto Parts

<a id="cut">Step 1: Jack up the Vehicle</a> | <a target="_blank" href="!286971!maintenance-detailing/286971-whiteline-lower-control-arm-bushing-tutorial-120-pictures.html#jack">View in Full Tutorial</a>
Since we're replacing a suspension component, the front needs to be off the ground. I jacked from behind the just body mount, and placed my jack stands there. More pictures in the actual tutorial, trying to stay under the 20 pic limit.

<a id="cut">Step 2: Loosening Bolts</a> | <a target="_blank" href="!286971!maintenance-detailing/286971-whiteline-lower-control-arm-bushing-tutorial-120-pictures.html#bolt">View in Full Tutorial</a>
There are 6 fasteners that need attention for this job. 2 are the alignment cams, 1 holds the ball joint to an intermediate plate, 2 hold that plate to the knuckle, and one connects the shock to the LCA. I suggest dousing them in a penetrating fluid a few days ahead of time. Once they've soaked, remove as many as you can. The alignment cams will likely be seized, but that's okay, we're going to cut them out. More pictures in the actual tutorial, trying to stay under the 20 pic limit.

<a id="cut">Step 3: Cut Out Old Cam Bolts and Remove LCA</a> | <a target="_blank" href="!286971!maintenance-detailing/286971-whiteline-lower-control-arm-bushing-tutorial-120-pictures.html#cut">View in Full Tutorial</a>
Its definitely scary to cut out a piece of your vehicle, but its pretty much the only way to get these out. I cut between the bushing and frame mounting tabs. Having the LCA disconnected from the knuckle will allow you to rotate it down for easier access to cut the bolts. Make sure that you buy the Carbide Diablo blades for the sawzall, nothing else is worth it. I used 5 crappy blades just to get one end off, but 2 carbide blades took care of every other cam on both sides. Also make sure to lube up the blade to keep the heat down and extend the life of the blade.
<a href="https://imgur.com/aSzCXIT"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/aSzCXITm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a id="cut">Step 4: Remove Ball Joint</a> | <a target="_blank" href="!286971!maintenance-detailing/286971-whiteline-lower-control-arm-bushing-tutorial-120-pictures.html#noballs">View in Full Tutorial</a>
I rented the 23 piece kit from Advanced Auto, I hear this is the only kit that works properly. Mine was super crusty, but I got it out with just a breaker bar and some heat. I had the LCA vertical so I could use my weight to turn the breaker bar. I got to the point where I couldn't turn anymore, and the ball joint wasn't coming out. I hit with a hammer in the pictured location, and it came out.
<a href="https://imgur.com/L0fzYid"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/L0fzYidm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/B4FdXcY"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/B4FdXcYm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a id="cut">Step 5: Press Out Old Bushings</a> | <a target="_blank" href="!286971!maintenance-detailing/286971-whiteline-lower-control-arm-bushing-tutorial-120-pictures.html#pressbush">View in Full Tutorial</a>
I used the jack method to press out my bushings, the process is covered with details in the tutorial. Essentially, you use the stock jack to apply pressure to the bushing and heat the LCA around the bushing to release it. Slowly increasing heat and pressure, the bushing will make its way out.
<a href="https://imgur.com/WITtIyz"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/WITtIyzm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/gjPBnuE"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/gjPBnuEm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/3Ow8wKt"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/3Ow8wKtm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a id="cut">Step 6: Remove Old Bushing Outer Shell</a> | <a target="_blank" href="!286971!maintenance-detailing/286971-whiteline-lower-control-arm-bushing-tutorial-120-pictures.html#shell">View in Full Tutorial</a>
This is the most challenging part of the process, but it wasn't terrible. I came up with a 5 step process that I believe is the best way to remove these. More details are covered in the tutorial, and I recommend you visit that page for proper instructions. The key to this step is a needle scaler, making some cuts in the bushing shells, and a good phosphoric acid bath!
<a href="https://imgur.com/HGxqOjP"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/HGxqOjPm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/hnTR1oi"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/hnTR1oim.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/rNWwNxB"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/rNWwNxBm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a id="cut">Step 7: Clean LCA, Remove Rust, and Paint</a> | <a target="_blank" href="!286971!maintenance-detailing/286971-whiteline-lower-control-arm-bushing-tutorial-120-pictures.html#paint">View in Full Tutorial</a>
I wanted my LCAs to be stripped of all rust and repainted before reinstall. As mentioned before, the LCAs came out so I could strip the frame better. I used the acid again to remove the surface rust, scuffed the surfaces with 150 grit sandpaper, painted with POR15, and finally covered everything in black paint.
<a href="https://imgur.com/04NINcK"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/04NINcKm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a id="cut">Step 8: Install the Whiteline Bushings</a> | <a target="_blank" href="!286971!maintenance-detailing/286971-whiteline-lower-control-arm-bushing-tutorial-120-pictures.html#whiteline">View in Full Tutorial</a>
Again, I would refer to the actual tutorial for proper instruction. To help with installation, I froze the bushing and used some grease on the outside of the new shells. In the tutorial, I installed 1 bushing with the jack, and the other with the ball joint press. To get the ball joint press around everything, the bushing needs to be set into the LCA tube about 1/2-3/4" using a jack.
<a href="https://imgur.com/VO05Qso"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/VO05Qsom.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/D8XxtIA"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/D8XxtIAm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/pAEbkS4"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/pAEbkS4m.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a id="cut">Step 9: Press in New Ball Joint</a> | <a target="_blank" href="!286971!maintenance-detailing/286971-whiteline-lower-control-arm-bushing-tutorial-120-pictures.html#newballs">View in Full Tutorial</a>
I used the ball joint press to do its job. It is important to find an installation tube that fits around the boot, but also on top of the ball joint flange. A little grease on the body helps with insertion and will prevent corrosion.
<a href="https://imgur.com/uoN4Srp"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/uoN4Srpm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/MD6apI3"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/MD6apI3m.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a id="cut">Step 10: Reinstall LCA</a> | <a target="_blank" href="!286971!maintenance-detailing/286971-whiteline-lower-control-arm-bushing-tutorial-120-pictures.html#reinstall">View in Full Tutorial</a>
When reinstalling, use the included grease on the bushing tubes. The suspension will rotate around these, so it is important they are both clean and lubricated. Since the cams are prone to seizing, I covered them in grease and put anti-seize on the threads. Installing the LCAs back in, I first put the cams in and rotated the ball joint end up to the knuckle. There is some fiddling required to get the intermediate plate bolts to line up, but its not terrible.
<a href="https://imgur.com/jjlkeHY"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/jjlkeHYm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/Ga5jGzE"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Ga5jGzEm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/8GjjdSc"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8GjjdScm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


Next Steps: CV Rebuild
I'm still looking for more CVs to rebuild as spares, but I managed to pick up one almost new OEM CV for $32 at a local junkyard this week. It was an absolute steal, so I'm really excited to get this project underway. Bought a reboot kit for the old one, before realizing it was too far gone to just reboot. Now the rebuild kit is going on this one and I’ll also rebuild the old CV with tripod wear as a spare. It’s also a Toyota CV, so worth saving. If anyone knows where to get a tripod end without spending an arm and a leg, I'm all ears. There's a Febest kit here, but I've heard their quality is crap. If there's nothing out there, I'll just pack it with grease and call it good, since it's a spare.
I am planning on making a writeup for the rebuild as well, similar to my past write ups with the door lock actuator and the Whiteline Bushings.

 

[y=mx+b]

LCA Project Updates:
I finally got an alignment after riding around for a 2 weeks with the steering wheel jacked. I haven't driven it a whole lot, but it definitely feels more planted on the road. Changing lanes over a the crown of a highway used to be all over the place, but now it feels much more planted.

I'm currently on all stock suspension, so I got the Firestone lifetime alignment. I know they don't like touching aftermarket suspension, but I think I'll get good usage out of it before I get into aftermarket UCAs, suspension, and whatnot. The before numbers are just from random cam bolt placement, so don't mind those too much. I do wish I had the alignment numbers from before to compare. As an idiot teenager, I never got it aligned and it had been probably 4 years with the cams seized up. This alignment doesn't look spectacular, but it works fine for mostly street driving on stock everything. I need new tires this summer, so I don't really mind it wears poorly either.
<a href="https://imgur.com/uE0Uz2k"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/uE0Uz2kl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a id="cvreboot">CV Reboot/Rebuild</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
Reboot Tutorial: CV Reboot Tutorial with Boot Stretch (80+ Pictures)
As mentioned in the last post, I finally picked up an almost brand new CV from a junkyard for $32. Not a lot of junkyards in my area have 4runners, so I was actually surprised to find this one already pulled and on the shelf locally. It looked to be almost brand new, but since the condition was unknown, I decided to reboot it. I already bought a reboot for my current CV that ended up being thrashed, so that was just waiting to get used. I have a full reboot tutorial that I've been working on that will be ready tomorrow or the day after, so I will update the post with that. When I get the old CV removed and the rebuilt one in, I also have plans to make a CV installation tutorial. I know these topics have been covered before, but more perspectives can't hurt. Pretty much all of my car/4runner/vehicle knowledge comes from here and facebook groups, so I want give back in some way.
<a href="https://imgur.com/dv67R7A"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/dv67R7Am.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/y7o8tsr"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/y7o8tsrm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/bTFdlR5"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/bTFdlR5m.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/Ifyap7E"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Ifyap7Em.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

While on my search for used OEM CVs to reboot, I had some trouble with LKQ on ebay. I placed 3 separate orders: 1 was canceled by LKQ the day after it was expected to arrive, 1 canceled by LKQ the day after I ordered, and 1 finally showed up as an O'reilly's CV. They refunded the O'reilly CV and let me keep it, so I may try and nab the tripod bearing for my current thrashed axle.
<a href="https://imgur.com/vkIfsVw"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/vkIfsVwl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> <a href="https://imgur.com/SipPpv3"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/SipPpv3l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a id="freewheels"></a>
Wheels
I also have my eye on some early 5th gen trail edition wheels, I really like them for some reason. I don't hate the stock sr5 wheels, but they're pretty ugly. Wheels don't really offer a lot of performance benefits, so I'm hesitant to spend money on them. They're asking $300 on craigslist, but I dunno if its worth it to me. Includes lugs and center caps, no tires or valve stems. Pic from CL ad:
<a href="https://imgur.com/cpCuXAp"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/cpCuXApl.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#post3523544" >Return to Post #11</a>

 

[chasrrr]

Man loving that you are starting your build with a frame clean up and restoration. I will be doing the same. Thanks for all the detailed posts on what you are up to. All in all was the LCA rebuild worth the time instead of just buying new LCA's?

 

[y=mx+b]

Man loving that you are starting your build with a frame clean up and restoration. I will be doing the same. Thanks for all the detailed posts on what you are up to. All in all was the LCA rebuild worth the time instead of just buying new LCA's?

Thanks! The frame cleanup is still underway, I just wanted to see how the POR15 held up after all my experimentation. After painting the LCAs, I decided that POR15 might be more hassle than its worth and want to give a shot at Rustoleum Rust Reformer. I'm getting back at it soon enough and am planning to some cutting and welding soonish. My welding isn't that good right now, but I've got metal to remake that front skid crossmember piece which isn't structural so it should be okay.

I really like making the tutorials for the bigger projects, so I'm glad others like them too. It feels like a valuable use of my time. Eventually, I'll have covered enough topics, combined with the other ones out there, to make a 4th gen specific DIY maintenance thread.

All in all, rebuilding the LCAs was definetly worth it to me. As a college student, I like saving money and have more time for projects during breaks. I needed to remove the LCAs to properly paint the frame behind them, which is what got this started. I was also working from home and wanted a tangible project to keep from going insane, so this fit project the bill. It ended up costing about $220 in materials and about 13 hours of time. Time would definitely be reduced following the tutorial, instead of trying a million things like I did lol. Once I perfected the method for removing the bushing shells, they came out without fuss. If you're lucky like Hi-desertT4R, the shells might come out with your bushings as shown in his attached pictures. After the install, I was able to get a legitimate alignment and it now feels more planted on the road. It used to wander decently when transitioning over the crown in the highway, but now everything is great. Could be just getting a real alignment, but it did stiffen up in a more controlled way up front from the bushings.

 

[chasrrr]

Thanks! The frame cleanup is still underway, I just wanted to see how the POR15 held up after all my experimentation. After painting the LCAs, I decided that POR15 might be more hassle than its worth and want to give a shot at Rustoleum Rust Reformer. I'm getting back at it soon enough and am planning to some cutting and welding soonish. My welding isn't that good right now, but I've got metal to remake that front skid crossmember piece which isn't structural so it should be okay.

I really like making the tutorials for the bigger projects, so I'm glad others like them too. It feels like a valuable use of my time. Eventually, I'll have covered enough topics, combined with the other ones out there, to make a 4th gen specific DIY maintenance thread.

All in all, rebuilding the LCAs was definetly worth it to me. As a college student, I like saving money and have more time for projects. I needed to remove the LCAs to properly paint the frame behind them, which is what got this started. I was also working from home and wanted a tangible project to keep from going insane, so this fit project the bill. It ended up costing about $220 in materials and about 13 hours of time. Time would definitely be reduced following the tutorial, instead of trying a million things like I did lol. Once I perfected the method for removing the bushing shells, they came out without fuss. If you're lucky like Hi-desertT4R, the shells might come out with your bushings as shown in his attached pictures. After the install, I was able to get a legitimate alignment and it now feels more planted on the road. It used to wander decently when transitioning over the crown in the highway, but now everything is great. Could be just getting a real alignment, but it did stiffen up in a more controlled way up front from the bushings.

Thats awesome! I might give your LCA refurbish tutorial a go while I'm cleaning my undercarriage. Then once I have enough posts on the forum I'll start my own build thread haha. Cheers dude! Sub'd to your thread!

 

[y=mx+b]

Thats awesome! I might give your LCA refurbish tutorial a go while I'm cleaning my undercarriage. Then once I have enough posts on the forum I'll start my own build thread haha. Cheers dude! Sub'd to your thread!

Sweet! Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions, I'd love to see pics over in that thread as well! I'm trying to collect pictures and a few words from everyone that completes the project, since a variety of perspectives from the 4runner community will help others in the future.
---

General Project Updates:
I have been acquiring 4runner parts and want to get some work done, but its been a million degrees with 200% humidity all last week. I'm also waiting on the differential and knuckle seals I ordered, they somehow went from VA, to OH, to MD, back to VA and are arriving 4 days later than expected. In the grand scheme of things, its not a big deal, but I'm kicking myself for trying to save $15 over buying in person. In that order, I also have the OEM parts for diff breather relocation.

Here is a layout of all the goodies. From left, a mega torque wrench to get the 173-ftlbs or 217ft-lbs spec for the CV axle nut, my rebuilt CV waiting for the seals, some misc plumbing parts that I'm going to use as seal drivers, Rust Reformer to try instead of POR15, fuel tank straps, drill/taps for when I break the skid plate and strap bolts, and metal to rebuilt the front skid mount.

I figure the front skid mount is a good place to practice some welding on my frame, since its not structural and its only jobs are to hold the skid plate and protect the radiator. There is a small piece of frame above it that's in mediocre shape, so I may cut that out as well. I'm slightly nervous because its near a front body mount, but I figure nothing ventured, nothing gained. Hopefully after completing the skid mount and the CV axle, the passenger side frame can get painted.

Off-Topic Minivan Maintenance
Only 4runner related because I used one of my YZZD3 oil filters, but I changed the oil on mom's 05 Sienna for the first time. Don't take easy peasy 1GR oil changes for granted kids, the 3MZ oil filter is under the exhaust manifold and above a front cross member. Its hard to see anything in there, so I was screwing it on blindly. Would have helped if I actually jacked it up, but I just drove it up on sections of 2x10 under the front wheels.

 

[y=mx+b]

<a id="tankstrap">Fuel Tank Strap Replacement</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
Replacement Tutorial: Fuel Tank Strap Replacement Tutorial (60+ Pictures)
My fuel tank straps were rusted pretty badly. The front strap was barely hanging on, and the rear strap was completely toast. I imagine they've been in that condition for a while, since my interest in doing my own maintenance has only started in the past 8ish months. Surprisingly, I didn't break a single bolt on either the skid or strap mounts. Here are some pictures for your entertainment:

Crusty Bolts

Rusted Straps

All clean and pretty

CV Replacement Update
I finally got my seals in a week late, so I can get started on my passenger CV replacement and writeup. Also have pieces for the rear diff breather relocation. May or may not do a writeup on that one, we'll see.

 

[y=mx+b]

Free Wheels!
Earlier in <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#freewheels" >Post #5</a>, I posted about some Early 5th gen trail / FJ Cruiser stock wheels for sale locally. They were originally listed for $300, then the price dropped to $200. After they dropped price, I contacted the seller and used my school email address without thinking much about it. When asking about the slight scuffing around the rim, the seller offered to just give them to me because they were an alumni of VT! They also came with lug nuts and center caps, which is nice because I have an annoying lug nut that always gets stuck in my socket.

Slight clear coat is chipping around the rim of the wheel, but the faces are in great condition. The seller had them stacked in their garage, which may have caused this. Should I repaint them a different color? I kind of like the aluminum color on tan, but let me know what color would look good with my band aid beige 4runner!

Tires Have Been Mounted! See here

Return to Post #35

 

[Dylan]

I realize you're on a budget, but you could justify putting the money you saved on the free wheels toward powder coating them. That is the way to do it right when it comes to quality and durability. Places that can do this for you ought to have a variety of color options, and it normally runs about $50 per wheel from what I recall.

 

[montijo505]

Free Wheels!
Earlier in <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#freewheels" >Post #5</a>, I posted about some Early 5th gen trail / FJ Cruiser stock wheels for sale locally. They were originally listed for $300, then the price dropped to $200. After they dropped price, I contacted the seller and used my school email address. When asking about the slight scuffing around the rim, the seller offered to just give them to me because they were an alumni of VT! They also came with lug nuts and center caps, which is nice because I have an annoying lug nut that always gets stuck in my socket.

Slight clear coat is chipping around the rim of the wheel, but the faces are in great condition. The seller had them stacked in their garage, which may have caused this. Should I repaint them a different color? I kind of like the aluminum color on tan, but let me know what color would look good with my band aid beige 4runner!

Even in today's society, there is still awesome people out there!

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[y=mx+b]

I realize you're on a budget, but you could justify putting the money you saved on the free wheels toward powder coating them. That is the way to do it right when it comes to quality and durability. Places that can do this for you ought to have a variety of color options, and it normally runs about $50 per wheel from what I recall.

True, getting them for free opens up new possibilities for what to use the money for. Powder coating in certainly the best way to get the color changed, although I do worry about touch up if they get scuffed off road. Also out of curiousity, when wheels are powder coated, do they do the part that is inside the tire too?

 

[y=mx+b]

<a id="cvreplace">CV Axle Replacement</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
Replacement Tutorial: CV Removal, New Seal Installation, and Reinstall Tutorial (120+ Pictures)
I finally got around to replacing my passenger side CV axle with the axle I rebooted recently! I took pictures again to make a tutorial to try and help someone else out. I read a few threads and watched a few videos, but wanted to make something that was my own that I could share with others. So far, the differential seal doesn't leak, so I'm really happy!

Learning from My Mistakes
Acknowledging and reflecting on mistakes is an important part of the learning process. I did make a few mistakes along the way, but I made sure to note them, so future CV replacers could benefit from them. The main issue was a rusty ring around the inner side of the ADD jackshaft, which was causing my seals to tear along their outer edge. I fixed this by scraping away at the crusties with a little pick, and after I got it cleaned up, I got the seal in first try without issue.

I also got my first negative comment on this post. I try to be as positive and constructive as possible in my posts because I really want to help people tackle their projects. It was frustrating to see others not wanting to be as constructive. Thankfully, I had a good interweb friend back me up!

Differential Drain Plug Problems
So when I last changed my gear oil, I rounded the front differential drain and ended up welding a nut on there. I did it while the plug was still in the diff, because that was the only way I could get it out. I changed the crush washer with that gear oil change, but I noticed a really slow leak around the plug.

When pulling the plug to change the CV axle, I took a closer look at the plug. Looking at the plug's flange, there is a slight deviation where the biggest weld concentration is located. For experimentation, I put RTV on a new crush washer to see if it makes a difference. Is it a good idea, probably not, but I like a good experiment. If it doesn't work out, I don't mind draining the fluid and replacing the plug with one of these fancy Lexus plugs that has a protruding head, rather than the socket head. We will see how this plays out, so far no leaks!

 

[y=mx+b]

<a id="oldcv">Old CV Axle Teardown for Science</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
I'm kind of an idiot for leaving it for this long, but live and learn. I decided to tear down the old axle to look at the effect of improper lubrication on the tripod joint. I do have an O'reilly's CV courtesy of LKQ thinking it was OEM, me receiving it and realizing it wasn't, and then refunding my money. I may try to cobble a half OEM axle together with the tripod from this axle and the boot saved from the junkyard axle. Theres also a Febest kit on ebay here: CV Joint Febest 0111-GRJ120 where I could get the complete inner joint. If after further analysis the axle is dead, I'll keep it around to show my friends how a CV joint works!

When I first pulled separated the inner joint, the bearings all fell right off.

Its interesting to compare the grease color, particularly seeing the metal debris in the torn boot axle and how it made the grease dark and shiny.

I also noticed there was some play between the tripod bearing, and the C-clip. Compared to the axle I rebooted, there was no play here.

Looking further into that play in the tripod bearing, we can see the axle shaft has slowly eaten away at the outer edge of the tripod bearing and made a chamfer. I don't have a good picture of the edge of the tripod on the newer axle, but you can still see here there is no chamfer.

Looking inside the tripod bearing cup, there is definitely some significant wear from the un-lubricated bearings. The wear is pretty noticeable, especially when compared to the axle I rebooted.

 

[Dylan]

Also out of curiousity, when wheels are powder coated, do they do the part that is inside the tire too?

Yes, they should. A good shop will media blast the wheel to completely strip everything down to the bare metal. Then the powder coating process begins.

Powder coating produces a more durable product compared to conventional painting. Sure, it can be scuffed. But it's much more difficult to do. Think about any off road bumpers or sliders that you can buy - all the good ones have powder coating options, rather than paint.

Moreover, you don't want a paint job that is easily scuffed, because then you will be painting your wheels all the time.

 

[y=mx+b]

Yes, they should. A good shop will media blast the wheel to completely strip everything down to the bare metal. Then the powder coating process begins.

Powder coating produces a more durable product compared to conventional painting. Sure, it can be scuffed. But it's much more difficult to do. Think about any off road bumpers or sliders that you can buy - all the good ones have powder coating options, rather than paint.

Moreover, you don't want a paint job that is easily scuffed, because then you will be painting your wheels all the time.

Thanks, I'm learning as I go, so I appreciate the explanation!

 

[y=mx+b]

<a id="headlightteaser">06+ Headlight Upgrade Coming Soon!</a>
Old Headlights
My current headlights are severely cracked for some reason. Surprisingly, they don't leak and have never fogged! The headlights were like that when I bought it, and the dealer had them professionally polished and cleaned before I finally bought it. 4 years later the clear coat is cracking and peeling off, so I wanted to shine up these turds.


Polishing Headlights Fail
I tried to polish them using a Meguiar's Polishing kit that has worked well on the Sienna in the past, but I failed. Instead of using the Meguiar's headlight coating at the end, I wanted to clear coat them for extra protection. Well, I used a cheap clear coat and accidentally used semi-gloss on half of it. I must have done too thick of a coat as well, because the clear was cracking on me as it dried. Thankfully, the fogs got the gloss and the orange peel just needs to be polished off. For the new headlights, I'll be using the Eastwood 2 part 2k clear.


Projectors!
Because I screwed up on my current headlights, which were already on their last leg anyway, I set out on the hunt for some 06+ projectors. I managed to find a pair of really good condition locally for $70, they just needed to be polished. I'll be following this tutorial How to do the 03->06 Headlight Swap. so there is not much need for me to do a writeup on this one, unless someone wants to see my spin on it? I'll be sure to get good pictures for the build thread.

So far, I have ordered the headlights and bumper fillers, but still need to pull the trigger on the wiring adapters and pieces. I’m debating on opening them up and painting the shroud, but not sure. I’ve seen a few pictures of shrouds color matched to the exterior, and it looks good on the lighter paint colors like silver and white. Maybe that would also look good with the Dorado Gold? I don’t think black shrouds would look good with the band-aid color.


<a id="sealupdate">CV Axle and Seal Updates</a>
It has been about 300 miles since I replaced the differential seal and RTV'd the front diff drain, and have been monitoring both about every time I go out. The drain plug was leaking a bit, so I tightened it a bit more. Now it doesn't leak anymore! Future me is going to hate current me for doing this, but thankfully I don't have the 10mm hex insert plug anymore. In the future, it would be a good idea to let the RTV cure fully before the final torque, as listed on the packaging. This would allow it to cure as a larger volume, and then be crushed down for better sealing.

Passenger Differential Seal: I wiped my finger under the seal and didn't feel any moisture or smell any gear oil on it.


RTV'd Drain Plug: Its kind of hard to see in the after picture, but there used to be a small little bubble of gear oil that would collect between the crush washer and the slight embossment in the diff. Now there isn't a bubble there. Its definitely not an end all be all solution, but it works for now. As mentioned before, I'm going to change the plug eventually.


Boots: While in there, I noticed that the inner boot was leaking a small amount of grease from the axle clamp, so I went back to tighten it up with the mini impact and wipe the grease away.


Back to School
So I'm now back at school and will probably not have as much time for 4runner frivolity. Thankfully, I am living in a little house with a driveway, so activities will not have to cease completely.

Here is a picture in a uhaul parking lot that I really liked for some reason. I've been doing a lot of work on it recently, and I'm proud of how much I have learned in the past few months. It's nice to look back and see it still in one piece lol.

 

[y=mx+b]

Welding Project Tease
I forgot to put this in the previous post, but I wanted to tease a welding project that I've been working on before school starts. I mentioned in this post that I had picked up some metal to work on rebuilding the front skid mount. I am still planning on doing that, but this project is going to serve as a trial run before I get started welding something permanently to the 4runner. My skills aren't quite refined yet, the only things I've really welded were a seat bracket on the sienna that didn't have to be pretty, a nut on my front diff drain, and a crappy dirt bike stand. This project will be something simple to give me more experience before diving into the skid mount.

Here are some teaser pictures of the top secret learning-to-weld project. This will be an accessory to the 4runner and will work together with a hobby of mine, feel free to guess what it might be! I'm still learning, so I'm working on the fitment and weld quality. Don't worry, its not anything really structural.