Bluepatrol
New member
Looks like its from here:
https://www.urdusa.com/urd-off-road-y-pipe-for-2003-4runner-v6/
$500 dollars seems like a lot for a Y-pipe
Y-pipe install
- Thread starter Adoniram
- Start date
Looks like its from here:
https://www.urdusa.com/urd-off-road-y-pipe-for-2003-4runner-v6/
$500 dollars seems like a lot for a Y-pipe
Originally made for FJ but also for 4R. They’re site says stainless but a lot of reviews says it’s actually aluminumized steel.
2007-2016 Toyota FJ Cruiser / 4Runner 4.0L V6 Performance Mid-pipes
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
The DT pipe can be had for $350-$375 but i'm not sure how I feel about all the bends. URD pipe seems offly close to the tranny pan which I don't like either. Not sure i'll go with either one.
wfo9
New member
There is no heat to the trans pan. There is at least 1+" of an air gap between the two with airflow. Whoever thinks this is transferring heat is simply making stuff up with no related experience.
The only reason to wrap the pipe or add additional insulation would be to help keep air velocity up... but it won't make any difference really.
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oljedi11950
New member
Beat me to it [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] !:thanks:
wfo9
New member
I don't need to do that. Just a basic understanding of physics and experience building cars and trucks tells me all I need to know. Air is the best possible insulator there is. Additionally, there is air flowing in the area.
It's a complete non-issue made up by someone looking at a picture and having no context for the factors at play.
Just don't like seeing people get confused by nonsense talk.
makes sense.. take 2 fry pans.. put one on top of the fire and another pan 1 inch above the heated frying pan.. now use a fan to simulate air movement.. the top pan will remain cool to the touch
jasxn
Member
Thanks [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] ! for the info. I just wanted to avoid that slippery slope if there was one but there isnt! And I came across threads and you've had this pipe on for awhile so thats even more reassuring.
Thank you again!
Adoniram
New member
I didn't do any heat wrap. I also considered this as a potential source of trouble, but the air gap is somewhat substantial. What little heat would transfer would be negligible. Also, the lack of cats means the pipe is much cooler than before. The original cats could get very hot due to increased pressure and slower velocity through the passages. But that's no longer a concern.
You could put a little wrap there just to feel more certain. I think it's like $15 from Amazon with prime shipping
If it makes you feel better, just do it.On a different note, yeah $500 is a lot of bread, but it's 100% bolt-up. I did it in my garage with a 1/2" ratchet and maybe 3 sockets in under 2 hours. I was taking my time. Other options require welding and shop time (unless you weld it yourself). The DT y-pipe has a lot of crazy bends and I'm not sure you get the same clearance benefit.
Hadelson
New member
I have the URD 3" Cat system installed with TRD CAI. Installed a 18" resonator front of the muffler to include the tail pipe resonator. I found it droned at 2220+ RPM on the interstate and doing this dropped the sound level quite a bit without impacting flow increase, etc. Still growls under WOT - no issues from my perspective for WOT
Question to those who have installed y-Pipe already. What is your experience with noise level increase? Just looking for subjective call based on your experiences.
Question to those who have installed y-Pipe already. What is your experience with noise level increase? Just looking for subjective call based on your experiences.
oljedi11950
New member
Maybe 3 on scale 1-10 imho
Friggin Idiot
Senior Member
I had issues with a leak at the manifolds so I took it to an exhaust shop, they said I was missing a gasket between the Y and mid-pipe so they added it. I guess most people re-use the one from OEM, and it's just a thin piece of metal to go there. It made a difference though. The leak at the manifolds, was because the studs were stripped, so they needed replaced along with new nuts.
EDIT: Oct2018 - Apparently I had several issues with the installation having done the Mk3 exhaust and y-pipe simultaneously. However, not all the issues were readily apparent until the shop owner and I started looking for exhaust leaks above 2000rpms. Basically I sat in the truck and revved the engine while he crawled around underneath the truck listening and feeling. Turns out that the crush gaskets on both sides of the y-pipe at the headers weren't quite in place when crushed and there was a leak on both. The donut to the mid-pipe was roasted because some Friggin Idiot cut the mid-pipe too short. The short mid-pipe meant that the entire system was under stress from both ends continuously pulling something apart. The spring connection at the mid-pipe was apparently the easiest place to pull as a flex joint. It had also pulled at the back of the muffler, not completely out, but enough for the pipe to be angled and causing an exhaust leak there as well. Finally have all new gaskets, a proper length mid-pipe, and no exhaust leaks!
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Argyle Edison
Member
The reduction/pinch at those flanges is ridiculous. The URD one will flow much better.
jasxn
Member
You can kind of see it in the photo but I did use the oem gasket.
No cel lights still. I did get in touch with Gadget and he said it’s normal. That’s a flex point and it’s fine. Lol. But that gap! Lol.
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wfo9
New member
Seems normal, that is a flex point. What you see is the donut gasket and the spring load that just holds a constant pressure. The gap should close as the gasket compresses...
No chance of a CEL even if it did leak. it is behind all the sensors.
jasxn
Member
Thanks again for the reassurance.
I’ve should’ve done this a long time ago. The 4R drives lighter. Now just waiting on the MAF
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jasxn
Member
[MENTION=222665]Adoniram[/MENTION] sorry to thread jack with my questions and all haha.
But from my experience it's an easy install. pb blast the nuts and it'll come off easier. once youre under youll see a silver thing bolted to the frame that wraps around one of the cats. remove that first and sliding out the cats will be a lot easier. i picked up an o2 sensor removal socket (22mm) but it was loose and stripping the thread so i just used the closed end of the wrench and loosened it but i had to use a hammer and bang the wrench to loosen the o2 sensor. i didnt have a breaker bar.
if you end up waiting for that lift. it'll help. but having about a 3 inch lift i had enough room to work under it.
good luck with the install! when i press the gas the 4R feels lighter. ill let you know once i get my MAF from URD for any improvement.
now im debating about the supercharger. lol
But from my experience it's an easy install. pb blast the nuts and it'll come off easier. once youre under youll see a silver thing bolted to the frame that wraps around one of the cats. remove that first and sliding out the cats will be a lot easier. i picked up an o2 sensor removal socket (22mm) but it was loose and stripping the thread so i just used the closed end of the wrench and loosened it but i had to use a hammer and bang the wrench to loosen the o2 sensor. i didnt have a breaker bar.
if you end up waiting for that lift. it'll help. but having about a 3 inch lift i had enough room to work under it.
good luck with the install! when i press the gas the 4R feels lighter. ill let you know once i get my MAF from URD for any improvement.
now im debating about the supercharger. lol
