gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I already tried that
It just bends more and more. The stock plastic shroud just isn't made to hold any weight.
Jerod's Supercharged T[u]RD Build
- Thread starter gamefreakgc
- Start date
I already tried that
It just bends more and more. The stock plastic shroud just isn't made to hold any weight.phattyduck
Elite Member
How about supporting the fan using aluminum (or whatever). This is what I did on my Camry:
You might be able to use the stock shroud mount holes for something similar. You don't want a heavy fan supported on the radiator fins if you can avoid it.
-Charlie
You might be able to use the stock shroud mount holes for something similar. You don't want a heavy fan supported on the radiator fins if you can avoid it.
-Charlie
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
How about supporting the fan using aluminum (or whatever). This is what I did on my Camry:
You might be able to use the stock shroud mount holes for something similar. You don't want a heavy fan supported on the radiator fins if you can avoid it.
-Charlie
I'll have to take a look at the radiator and support brackets again to see if there's any decent mounting points. I thought about using metal straps, SPAL sells some that fit right into the slots located around the fan itself.
I did mount my transmission cooler with the ties and it's not light either when full of fluid and it's holding up strong. There's six mounting points on the fan, so it'd be less than 1 lb on each tie.
EDIT: I ordered the SPAL mouting straps. I think it will work just fine in the radiator shroud mount points, so 4 straps total.
Last edited:
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Hood Struts and LED Lighting
Had some free time so I decided to install the hood struts and LED lighting I ordered last week. Now that it's in, WHY DID I NOT DO THIS SOONER??? By far one of the most functional things I've ever done. I think I'll do a write-up on the LED lighting, it wasn't that hard at all but here's the short version of what I did.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XtDssJoDpqk?rel=0&controls=0&showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I ordered the hood struts from Redline Tuning: 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner Hood QuickLIFT PLUS. I went with the Plus line for better mounting hardware but there's a more economy line for less. I won't go into too much detail here because the instructions were very good. They tell you exactly where to drill the holes for the brackets so that it matches perfectly, you just need a sharpie, a drill with bits, a riveter and a punch (I used a small Philips screwdriver). Here's my photos for reference:
Top bracket:
Bottom bracket (it's flush against the frame in the corner):
Finished installation (can't rotate the darn photo):
I absolutely love the struts! In the last photo, you'll notice some nifty LED lights shining in my engine bay! Also one of those WHY DIDN'T I DO THIS SOONER sort of things.
I ordered the parts from Superbrightleds.com, same place that many of us buy our dash lights from. I bought the 4000K Natural White LED strip here, rated at 380 per ft (strip is 1.6 ft so roughly 600 lumens): https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...h-lc2-connector-380-lumens-per-ft/1465/4340/o.
I also ordered these parts to complete the installation:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SXOVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...ctor-power-wire/535/1715/#tab/RelatedProducts - 10 ft
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/adhesives/3m-automotive-adhesion-promoter/3046/6648/
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-flexible-light-strip-interconnect/2239/5176/ - 3
I first cut the LED strip per the markings to make the LED strip a bit longer. I wanted more light spread out across the engine bay. I used the connectors to easily attach the LEDs. Make sure you don't accidentally reverse the polarity like I did.
I then install the pinswitch on the frame, right next to the rubber hood bump stop above the driver's side headlight. I realized too late I should have drilled it on a flat, even part of the frame but it worked out ok in the end.
I then cleaned the hood off, used the adhesive promoter and attached the LED lights in the crease just behind the rubber gasket. I ran the power wires down the hood and was careful around the hinge - it can snip your wires in half if not routed correctly.
Here's how the lights sit under the hood with it on:
And the finished product:
Had some free time so I decided to install the hood struts and LED lighting I ordered last week. Now that it's in, WHY DID I NOT DO THIS SOONER??? By far one of the most functional things I've ever done. I think I'll do a write-up on the LED lighting, it wasn't that hard at all but here's the short version of what I did.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XtDssJoDpqk?rel=0&controls=0&showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I ordered the hood struts from Redline Tuning: 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner Hood QuickLIFT PLUS. I went with the Plus line for better mounting hardware but there's a more economy line for less. I won't go into too much detail here because the instructions were very good. They tell you exactly where to drill the holes for the brackets so that it matches perfectly, you just need a sharpie, a drill with bits, a riveter and a punch (I used a small Philips screwdriver). Here's my photos for reference:
Top bracket:
Bottom bracket (it's flush against the frame in the corner):
Finished installation (can't rotate the darn photo):
I absolutely love the struts! In the last photo, you'll notice some nifty LED lights shining in my engine bay! Also one of those WHY DIDN'T I DO THIS SOONER sort of things.
I ordered the parts from Superbrightleds.com, same place that many of us buy our dash lights from. I bought the 4000K Natural White LED strip here, rated at 380 per ft (strip is 1.6 ft so roughly 600 lumens): https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...h-lc2-connector-380-lumens-per-ft/1465/4340/o.
I also ordered these parts to complete the installation:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SXOVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...ctor-power-wire/535/1715/#tab/RelatedProducts - 10 ft
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/adhesives/3m-automotive-adhesion-promoter/3046/6648/
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-flexible-light-strip-interconnect/2239/5176/ - 3
I first cut the LED strip per the markings to make the LED strip a bit longer. I wanted more light spread out across the engine bay. I used the connectors to easily attach the LEDs. Make sure you don't accidentally reverse the polarity like I did.
I then install the pinswitch on the frame, right next to the rubber hood bump stop above the driver's side headlight. I realized too late I should have drilled it on a flat, even part of the frame but it worked out ok in the end.
I then cleaned the hood off, used the adhesive promoter and attached the LED lights in the crease just behind the rubber gasket. I ran the power wires down the hood and was careful around the hinge - it can snip your wires in half if not routed correctly.
Here's how the lights sit under the hood with it on:
And the finished product:
Last edited:
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
First few tanks are in! I'm going to start using Fuelly again to track these more accurately. I got 14.9 and 15.8 MPG's respectively. This is with about 60% city driving as well.
I was averaging between 14.0 and 15.0 MPG's respectively before the e-fan, 14.6 being average. This is mostly city driving and with California's winter fuel blend which has lower MPG ratings for older vehicles like ours.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Now I'm really starting to dive into the unknown. I did a clean up of my tune that was running too rich into the 10's in a few spots and then it dawned on me: I have methanol injection, plenty of room for more fuel, why not try more boost? I know the Tacoma crowd runs way more than 10 PSI on stock internals with great results. So here goes nothing:
http://pulleyboys.com/cart/34-liter-trd-keyed-pulley.html
The 2.0" pulley is measured by the manufacturer to produce 13-14 PSI. I'm at 10 PSI with the 2.1" due to having headers and not exhaust manifolds, so I'm expecting around 12-13 PSI at sea level. And for those who are wondering, there are documented cases of running as small as 1.7" pulleys on these superchargers. Long-term that will eat up the bearings, so 2.0" is as small as I will ever go. I rebuilt it 2 years ago so I should be good to go there.
I just need to keep an eye on my timing to make sure I don't have any predetonation. The water/meth should really shine here!
Also, I'm having a hard time finding a tuner who will take on a Toyota with the AEM F/IC 6. I have a feeling I might end up trying to tune it myself, I think I need to find some empty country roads though... anyone know if any abandoned airstrips in the Sac area or a good tuner/dyno shop?
http://pulleyboys.com/cart/34-liter-trd-keyed-pulley.html
The 2.0" pulley is measured by the manufacturer to produce 13-14 PSI. I'm at 10 PSI with the 2.1" due to having headers and not exhaust manifolds, so I'm expecting around 12-13 PSI at sea level. And for those who are wondering, there are documented cases of running as small as 1.7" pulleys on these superchargers. Long-term that will eat up the bearings, so 2.0" is as small as I will ever go. I rebuilt it 2 years ago so I should be good to go there.
I just need to keep an eye on my timing to make sure I don't have any predetonation. The water/meth should really shine here!
Also, I'm having a hard time finding a tuner who will take on a Toyota with the AEM F/IC 6. I have a feeling I might end up trying to tune it myself, I think I need to find some empty country roads though... anyone know if any abandoned airstrips in the Sac area or a good tuner/dyno shop?
Last edited:
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
In preparation of running 10+ PSI of boost, I regapped my spark plugs last night. I realize now I didn't take a photo, but they all looked good. Nice mocha color on the insulator and no damage or buildup. They are the Iridium IK22's that are commonly used. I noticed a little bit of soot on some of the plugs but I'm not surprised since I'm running richer under boost than before. The driver's side bank also had some oil on the threads and the nut but nothing on the tip, I think it was because when I got the vehicle the spark plug tubes were leaking oil and it was just left over residual oil. I gave them a good cleaning so hopefully I will not see any oil again. My engine does not burn oil.
I regapped my plugs to 0.035" from the factory 0.043". Many engine builders and supercharger companies recommend this to avoid spark blowout. It's been raining pretty hard but before then at WOT I noticed that power really started to drop off after about 4500 RPM to redline at 5500. I'm thinking this might either have been my spark plugs, or my stock camshafts not flowing enough air.
If the plug gapping makes no difference, guess what's coming next...
I regapped my plugs to 0.035" from the factory 0.043". Many engine builders and supercharger companies recommend this to avoid spark blowout. It's been raining pretty hard but before then at WOT I noticed that power really started to drop off after about 4500 RPM to redline at 5500. I'm thinking this might either have been my spark plugs, or my stock camshafts not flowing enough air.
If the plug gapping makes no difference, guess what's coming next...
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
GEEZ LOUISE gapping my spark plugs made a huge difference! I went from 0.043" to 0.035" and I used to have a lack of power from 4500 RPM up. Now it pulls much, much harder all the way to redline! Can't believe I've left that much power on the table for that long.
I need to clean up my current tune a bit better before I try and get the 2.0" pulley on there. But it's coming soon...
I need to clean up my current tune a bit better before I try and get the 2.0" pulley on there. But it's coming soon...
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Took the 4Runner out near the airport to do some uninterrupted tuning on some empty roads. I finally hit 100 MPH in my 4Runner! :zoom:
I learned a few things in my 2 hour tuning session:
1. The progressive controller for my methanol is not perfectly linear. I had this nasty rich spot that would go from about 12 AFR to 10.4 AFR. Turns out when my controller hits max boost it kicks up in a hurry. Now it's 11.5 - 12, right on target.
2. In 3rd gear, I actually make 11 PSI! 1st tops at 10, 2nd tops at 10.5, and 3rd makes 11. Odd huh? Don't really know why.
3. At WOT, and 11 PSI, I still have 15 degrees of timing advance. I haven't had to pull a single degree of timing. Nuts.
4. I fouled my upstream O2 sensor Time for a new one!
I learned a few things in my 2 hour tuning session:
1. The progressive controller for my methanol is not perfectly linear. I had this nasty rich spot that would go from about 12 AFR to 10.4 AFR. Turns out when my controller hits max boost it kicks up in a hurry. Now it's 11.5 - 12, right on target.
2. In 3rd gear, I actually make 11 PSI! 1st tops at 10, 2nd tops at 10.5, and 3rd makes 11. Odd huh? Don't really know why.
3. At WOT, and 11 PSI, I still have 15 degrees of timing advance. I haven't had to pull a single degree of timing. Nuts.
4. I fouled my upstream O2 sensor
Time for a new one!
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
It's official, I spend way too much time on here:
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
2.0" Pulley time!
It's officially installed! Gosh it's small:
I noticed that it didn't fit flush with the snout. I was going to bust out the impact wrench when I realized if it's flush, 1 of 2 things will happen:
1. The pulley is so small that it will rub on the snout housing. I've heard of some having this problem.
2. I'd never get it back off! The puller didn't grip the inside edge without slipping/scratching, so this allows me to catch the edge or insert a washer or something for more leverage.
I'm working on a basic tuning map based off the one I created for the 2.1" pulley. I don't want to go WOT until I figure out how much PSI of boost I'm making and ensure that I have enough fuel.
It's officially installed! Gosh it's small:
I noticed that it didn't fit flush with the snout. I was going to bust out the impact wrench when I realized if it's flush, 1 of 2 things will happen:
1. The pulley is so small that it will rub on the snout housing. I've heard of some having this problem.
2. I'd never get it back off! The puller didn't grip the inside edge without slipping/scratching, so this allows me to catch the edge or insert a washer or something for more leverage.
I'm working on a basic tuning map based off the one I created for the 2.1" pulley. I don't want to go WOT until I figure out how much PSI of boost I'm making and ensure that I have enough fuel.
Is that gap recommended just when running a smaller pulley or for any supercharged 3.4?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
It's a general rule for all supercharged engines, I did not know it until recently. For turbocharged engines running higher boost the gap is even smaller.
The goal is the largest gap possible without spark blowout since larger gap = better combustion. I just had mine too big. Next time you are working on your engine pull your plugs and check the gaps. If you are still running the copper stock plugs, I highly recommend switching to IK22's like most of us run. That will allow you to adjust the gap easier and they won't run so hot.
Running stock NGK's right now but about to tackle the supercharger install, so will be replacing the plugs. Just ordered the Denso IK22's. Thanks!
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Have not had time yet to really test it out. Family was sick over the weekend & holiday. Supposed to be dry on Sunday so I might go out and road tune it for a bit.
Desperately trying to find a dyno shop that will take my 4Runner too, they either don't do Toyotas or they won't touch piggybacks, only standalone ECUs. Finding a dyno is proving to be more difficult than I thought.
Speedy
Member
Tell em' you just need it for the runs and you'll tune it yourself.
