Papabeach's Mod Thread

Been playing around with different types of switches to automate lighting..more out of interest than need but somewhat practical. With my table storage lid I used a magnet switch but recently found these really nice IR switches on super bright LEDs that work great. Mounted a small LED bar to the inside of my storage bin that is triggered by raising the lid everything had male/female connectors and went together for a simple and clean install.

Got out and wheeled it! Good times today at Citrus in FL. Had to get pulled out of the mud pit...doh!

Some more pics...

Filler panel LED panels mounted! Need to finish wiring now.

Something new is on the horizon...

Took two baths but finally mostly clean...

that is very clean! looks great

On my last wheeling trip I had to crawl through the 4Runner and crawl out the rear window to hook up my buddies winch to my recovery point…I was buried in a mud pit and didn’t really want to get out to facilitate the recovery….

It was easy enough to roll the rear window down from the driver’s seat, crawl out the back and hook up the winch but why not install a switch in the back hatch to allow for control? Or perhaps I shouldn't get stuck in mud pits...



The mod was originally written up here:
3rd Gen Rear Window Cargo Switch Mod W/ PICTURES - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

I mostly followed it but rather than tap the wires by plug in the door, I tapped them by the rear window relay…way easier. Also, soldered the wires as opposed to t-taps.

I had an extra factory window switch and pig tail that I used for this project and wired as below.

I didn’t take a pic of the back of my switch but it was identical to the picture [MENTION=102716]Tphocker[/MENTION] posted (see below)


(Wires from Relay)------------------------------(Wires from Factory Window Switch pigtail)
Green w/ Red Stripe: Up------------------------Green wire
Green w/ Yellow Stripe: Down------------------Blue w/ Yellow Stripe
White w/ Black Stripe: Ground-----------------Blue w/ Red Stripe

I used red/yellow/green wires that I had but you can obviously use anything...

Has the same delay as if you are turning the key…but otherwise works perfect.

Connections soldered:


Here you can see the wires routed from the relay through the hatch and out the hole I cut (and lined with electrical tape):


And done…


Overall pretty easy project....I spent more time trying to figure out how I was going to tap the wires in the door before deciding to follow them to relay then anything else.

Wiring...and preparation

Well I ran out of space on my six fuse block some just swapped in a 12 circuit block. Next step is to mod the stereo bezel for more switch blanks...if only I had done this the first time...doh!

Time to fix my CBI rear bumper swing arm fold down tables with some real crimping power...crimped battery lugs (as pictured) are not very secure and have slipped multiple times.

Not very exciting but done..double crimped wires, heat shrink covering and then some spare split loom since I didn't use coated wire. They are stainless but we'll see how long they hold up. I suppose I should knock the surface rust off the clips that hold the table closed...maybe later ...

Changed the Drive belts tonight. S/C belt was in bad bad shape and had been slipping...not to hard to figure out why!

Hardest part of the job was getting to the power steering tensioner bolt...PITA

Out with the Old..
S/C belt was toast!

A/C belt was worn and cracking

Power steering belt was in pretty good shape


In with the New!

S/C nose cone replacement and 2.1" pulley

What started out a simple supercharger pulley upgrade (downsizing pulley 2.2” to 2.1”) turned into a nose cone swap. The old pulley and nut were seized. Strap wrench and ½” ratchet didn’t work to break the nut free. Tried a number of things (even tried an impact…although this is not recommended) but ended up clamping a vice grip on the front of the pulley and using a 3 foot breaker bar with a silly amount of torque and PB blaster to eventually knock it free. The pulley well that wasn’t going to happen. Put the puller on it and all I did was bend the aluminum pulley. Quickly aborted this and pulled out a new nose cone kit I have been sitting on for a few years. Easily slipped the 2.1” pulley after coating everything in antiseize. Next, had to trim the plastic cover on the front of the motor back a bit more to expose the bottom bolts for the nose cone. Used a syringe and straw to suck out as much oil as I could…maybe 10cc at most and it looked/smelled pretty bad. Shoved a bunch of towels under the nose, unbolted it, tapped the tabs a couple times with a mallet/pry bar and off came the cone. I was shocked at how little oil came out….it definitely need replaced and refilled. I doubt there was much more than 10-15cc left in the cone…supposed to 120cc!

Let this be a lesson to all you boosted 4Runners out there….keep up with your S/C maintenance…oil changes are necessary!!

Installed the new nose cone…easy peasy, put the belt back on and holy smokes….way way way quieter. Quick test drive….boost comes on much faster. I didn’t peg it so no idea how much boost I gained. Will take it slow for now and see if I need to reprogram the piggyback computer and/or consider water/meth injection. In the end…guess it was a good thing the old pulley seized and I had a spare available. FWIW, still trying to get the old pulley off…PB Blaster, torch…still not budging…will keep trying as it would be nice to rebuild this cone and keep it ready for future use.


Seized/bent pulley


Bad supercharger oil (should be clear and should be A LOT MORE OF IT)


Nose cone removed….looks pretty good to me


New nose cone kit ready to go!


New and shiny nose cone/2.1” pulley


PITA!

Done!

Added a oil catch can...figured why not since I am now running more boost with a smaller pulley. It’s not like my engine is getting any younger...maybe reduce some risk? I don’t really know for sure... The one I ordered was marketed for a Tundra and came with a convenient mounting bracket.

Went with Moroso 85651

Hey man. I was curious as to what you thought about the 2.2" pulley. Could you tell a significant difference between the stock pulley and the 2.2" pulley? Or is that why you changed to the 2.1" pulley?

I have the stock pulley, and just bought a 2.2" pulley, but haven't installed it yet. That is why I was wondering.

Thanks.

Bandit Runner said:

Hey man. I was curious as to what you thought about the 2.2" pulley. Could you tell a significant difference between the stock pulley and the 2.2" pulley? Or is that why you changed to the 2.1" pulley?

I have the stock pulley, and just bought a 2.2" pulley, but haven't installed it yet. That is why I was wondering.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Short answer, Yes, I noticed a difference and thought it was worth it.

Long answer, I ran the stock pulley for over >100K miles with no other fuel mods and was quite happy with it. In fact, that was about the only mod I had made for over 10 years. When the rear bearings in the supercharger starting to go, I made a decision to start building the 4Runner to where it is today. I pulled the supercharger off, sent it to Magnuson for a full rebuild, added the URD 7th injector kit, 2.2" URD pulley and did a bunch of other maitenance at the same time. When it was finally back together, I did notice quite a difference with the 2.2" pulley. The 4Runner pulled harder and the extra boost was there but it really ran so so much better overall after the tune-up it is hard to give all the credit to the pulley upgrade.

The reason for the recent upgrade to the 2.1" pulley was nothing more than curiosity and greed. Since I originally added the 2.2" I have added a lot of weight and larger tires and was feeling a little sluggish. Re-gearing definitely helped but I wanted to see if a pulley downsize could help even more. With the 2.1", boost comes on noticeably quicker than the 2.2" and it again makes me smile when I step on it. I rareley drive around at max boost and don't really know that the reported 2.5-3.5 extra PSI the comes from upgrading from the stock pulley to 2.1" actually moves my heavy truck around that much faster but the throttle response is there and the whine of the supercharger is very satisfying as is the seat-of-the-pants feel. No regrets...I would do it again in a heart beat.

papabeach said:

Short answer, Yes, I noticed a difference and thought it was worth it.

Long answer, I ran the stock pulley for over >100K miles with no other fuel mods and was quite happy with it. In fact, that was about the only mod I had made for over 10 years. When the rear bearings in the supercharger starting to go, I made a decision to start building the 4Runner to where it is today. I pulled the supercharger off, sent it to Magnuson for a full rebuild, added the URD 7th injector kit, 2.2" URD pulley and did a bunch of other maitenance at the same time. When it was finally back together, I did notice quite a difference with the 2.2" pulley. The 4Runner pulled harder and the extra boost was there but it really ran so so much better overall after the tune-up it is hard to give all the credit to the pulley upgrade.

The reason for the recent upgrade to the 2.1" pulley was nothing more than curiosity and greed. Since I originally added the 2.2" I have added a lot of weight and larger tires and was feeling a little sluggish. Re-gearing definitely helped but I wanted to see if a pulley downsize could help even more. With the 2.1", boost comes on noticeably quicker than the 2.2" and it again makes me smile when I step on it. I rareley drive around at max boost and don't really know that the reported 2.5-3.5 extra PSI the comes from upgrading from the stock pulley to 2.1" actually moves my heavy truck around that much faster but the throttle response is there and the whine of the supercharger is very satisfying as is the seat-of-the-pants feel. No regrets...I would do it again in a heart beat.

Click to expand...

Thanks so much for the detailed response! Very informative. I will be installing the 7th injector kit at the same time as the 2.2" pulley also. I'm hoping to see a very noticeable difference over what I have now.

Did you have to do much tuning when you installed the 7th injector?

Bandit Runner said:

Thanks so much for the detailed response! Very informative. I will be installing the 7th injector kit at the same time as the 2.2" pulley also. I'm hoping to see a very noticeable difference over what I have now.

Did you have to do much tuning when you installed the 7th injector?

Click to expand...

You’re welcome. This build had been an evolution, very few short answers.
I have performed “zero” tuning...everything runs fine. I am pretty sure I could get more performance with some additional tuning but it hasn’t been a priority. I am sure I will get ther eventually...

Needed more spaces for some switches so followed [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] lead and added 4 vertical switches to the bottom left of the radio bezel. I bought the switch holder and some abs plastic on amazon, some JB Weld Plastic Epoxy putty at Oreilly’s, had some sandpaper and flat black spray paint. It ended up good enough for me but could have been smoother with coat of bondo and some further sanding. Everything went pretty smooth…had to notch out the shifter bezel to fit around the new switch holder but otherwise pretty straight forward.