Jerod's Supercharged T[u]RD Build

I requested some possible seat belt samples from a company. Thinking of adding some TRD red flair to the interior of my car. Probably will need to add some red beyond just the seatbelts though. Any thoughts? I kinda like the Elegant Red Panel, but the Ferrari Red I think is closer to the TRD Red color.

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Tried out another product today. I installed an electric fan a year or so ago to free up some HP by reducing rotational mass (the stock mechanical fan) but under some circumstances the fan couldn't keep up. One instance was during stop and go traffic across Sacramento on hot summer days (100+ degrees on the road). Certain roads like Sunrise Blvd. and others have long stop lights so idle temps plus constantly being on the gas made for a very hot engine that the fan could not cool down fast enough. Would hit up to 210 degrees, for a boosted engine that means ping, ping, and more ping!

I put in some Royal Purple Ice, which is a coolant additive that helps reduce temperatures. Along with the Ice, I also increased my water/antifreeze ratio from 50/50 to 60/40 per recommended. This product can also be used in straight water.

71nHWFebv%2BL._SX425_.jpg

Water transfers heat from the cylinder heads and block faster than antifreeze but has diminishing returns. One research article shows that pure water carries away twice as much heat as pure antifreeze but a 50/50 mix is only up to 20% less efficient than straight water. Royal Purple Ice and other chemical additives like Water Wetter reduce surface tension, eliminating some of the barrier that keeps water from absorbing heat from the engine. This doesn't "magically eliminate heat", it's a by product of a combustion engine. What it does do is move more of that heat from the engine block and heads to the radiator where it can be transferred into the air via the radiator.

For me cooler engine temps = less detonation, which = more timing and more power. I'm not as worried about running at cooler temps since I've had the 170 degree thermostat in my engine for 5 years with no ill-effect, not surprising since it's made by TRD.

The first few days of driving my electric fan it kicking on less. In fact this morning while driving to work, the fan did not turn on once during my 5 mile commute with about 70 degrees ambient temperature. So far I'm pleased with the results but I need a good hot day to really put it to the test and see if I can stay out of the 210's. Today is 93 degrees, hot but tack on that extra 10 degrees and it makes a big difference. More to come!
 
Just watched the final video series of a Turbo V8 LS swap into a Tacoma. Sometimes I pretend my 4Runner is fast (it isn't). Skip to 5:00 mark if you don't like the theatrics.

<iframe width="900" height="500" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Vq2JLabSQw4" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Been meaning to comment on this, my supercharged 4Runner also makes a tick more boost in numerically higher gears like 3rd for example than 2nd.

I think it's because the RPMs aren't climbing as fast and boost is somewhat an example of restriction. The RPMs climbing faster in lower RPM frees up some restriction and I see about 1psi less boost.
 
I call my 09 Tocuma the Turd but that was more TRD because it had a TRD cold air intake on it. :)

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I call my 09 Tocuma the Turd but that was more TRD because it had a TRD cold air intake on it. :)

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

I tried to get my hands on one last year. Seems they were discontinued some time ago and new stock doesn't exist anymore! TRD supercharger + TRD intake + TRD headers + TRD exhaust + TRD 7th injector would have been a pretty fast setup!
 
I tried to get my hands on one last year. Seems they were discontinued some time ago and new stock doesn't exist anymore! TRD supercharger + TRD intake + TRD headers + TRD exhaust + TRD 7th injector would have been a pretty fast setup!

The TRD intake air box was a joke. Cheaply made and I ended up ripping it out a few years ago and junking it. The hoses littery all deterated and the components were failing. Thankfully I kept the OEM air box and hoses.

I just have the sport edition which has the TRD suspension.

It dosent have the TRD headers, super charger, intake and exhaust. We just called it the TRD for its deep sounding throttle when the air box was on it and you trapped on it. As well as the fact that it says TRD sport on the bed...;)


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Also, there's some real gains to do a good gasket match port on the intake manifold and the cylinder head. Also some casting flaws.

Cylinder head (see size of gasket vs size of intake port)

gamefreakgc-albums-engine-performance-mods-picture57523-img-7062-a.jpg


Intake manifold

gamefreakgc-albums-engine-performance-mods-picture57524-img-7063-a.jpg


Casting flaws on intake manifold

gamefreakgc-albums-engine-performance-mods-picture57525-img-7065-a.jpg


And in cylinder head

gamefreakgc-albums-engine-performance-mods-picture57522-img-7057-a.jpg
 
Back on the road and as peppy as ever. I ended up going with NGK knock sensors since they were half the price of dealership parts. Seeing that I've had good experience with NGK parts in the past I hope that they make their knock sensors as well as they do spark plugs and ignition parts (which are OEM).
 
It's already in the low 90's in the last week of April. My intake air temps are rising a lot faster than I'd prefer at this time of the year.

Decided to do the age old "elbow removal mod" which is just a simple removal of the center section of the intake snorkel. Remove airbox, remove two 10mm bolts on fender and wiggle out the piece (there's a tap on the side opposite of the bolts). I've put my deckplate back in and see if this helps keep things cooler. The hot intake makes my idle speed drop and runs a little rough.
 
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It's already in the low 90's in the last week of April. My intake air temps are rising a lot faster than I'd prefer at this time of the year.

Decided to do the age old "elbow removal mod" which is just a simple removal of the center section of the intake snorkel. Remove airbox, remove two 10mm bolts on fender and wiggle out the piece (there's a tap on the side opposite of the bolts). I've put my deckplate back in and see if this helps keep things cooler. The hot intake makes my idle speed drop and runs a little rough.

Removing the elbow and leaving the deckplate in has made a difference with my intake teperatures. Before if I put in the deckplate, the power definitely took a hit. Driving around town and passing was more laborious and I had to go in boost more often to move around. Now on hot days, I can put the deckplate in without any loss of power except at WOT (doesn't flow enough with the stock airbox).

I noticed a roughly 10 degree in IAT's. That's with low 90's temps too. I'm now a proponent of removing the intake elbow as an alternative to the deckplate mod for hotter climates.
 
I have my AFR's exactly how I want them for closed loop boost and WOT and my tune is pretty much spot on at this point. For closed loop it's between 13.0 and 12.5, and at WOT it's between 11.7 and 12.0. Pretty much perfect. This is done by skewing the O2 sensor and removing and adding fuel by modifying the fuel injection pulse.

However, my timing is still not where I want it to be. Cruising on the highway it runs 24-25 degrees of timing advance with the highest value occurring during downhills where it hits 30 degrees. However in closed loop boost that drops to 13 degrees, which will max out at 15 degrees at WOT near redline. With the methanol injection and 91 octane fuel, I'm really running about 96 octane fuel so I should be able to handle more ignition timing without any spark knock/pinging.

I'm going to be utilizing the third fuel map, the MAF table to try and increase ignition timing. From looking at past runs, I know that the MAF voltage peaks at 4.74 volts at 5500 RPM and the low is 1.4 volts at idle. I'm hoping to either modify or clamp the MAF voltage, say about 3.5, to trick the ECU into running more advance ignition timing to gain more power. I've got plenty of fuel to use, since some of my values on the fuel map are -20%, with the max being +10% at redline. I need to collect more data on when the engine starts pulling timing and at what MAF voltage so I can clamp it at that point in an attempt to advance ignition. Here goes nothing!
gamefreakgc, what did you ever find on closed loop timing? Finally picked up a scangauge to see why in closed loop above 3k it felt like I threw out a sail. Sure enough timing drops significantly, down to 10 some times. Almost like the knock sensors or ECU are getting false readings regarding detonation.

About to install my water meth kit and wanna try and resolve this prior to
 
gamefreakgc, what did you ever find on closed loop timing? Finally picked up a scangauge to see why in closed loop above 3k it felt like I threw out a sail. Sure enough timing drops significantly, down to 10 some times. Almost like the knock sensors or ECU are getting false readings regarding detonation.

About to install my water meth kit and wanna try and resolve this prior to

Yeah my engine blew and I replaced it with a low mileage JDM. Timing's a bit higher on this one and it runs better. I had low compression on the old engine in two cylinders and I think it was messing with the timing. At idle the timing would go from 19 degrees and randomly drop to 8 and stumble too.
 
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