I like PowerStop brakes, and their kits are nice and affordable. The only downside? Red calipers, in my opinion. Wish they would offer them in standard silver!I went with the PowerStop kit from Amazon for the 231mm Tundra brake upgrade, also upgraded the hose to stainless steel while I was there. The brakes have been great; they feel a lot stiffer than I expected, which I guess is a good thing? They're super smooth though, much nicer than the rotors that were on there.
I went with the Milestar Patagonia 265/75r16's and I've been really impressed with them. They are my first set of M/T tires and they ride smoother than the cheap all-terrains I've used in the past. They do have road noise but it's really not noticeable unless you have the radio/AC off and are listening for it. They rub a tiny bit at full lock in some situations, but I'm also running the 2nd gen taco "snowflake" wheels, so that might mess with the spacing.
I got them stuck once, trying to crawl up a hill made of loose dirt right after it had rained, in 4HI, and at 34psi. So not really the fault of the tiresI'm excited to get them out on more trails though!
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Twan
Senior Member
I really need to get around to getting mine installed, but it's buried in my storage unit while I house shop. I've heard people say it could be the ABS pump causing that issue, but that's not a cheap part to spitball with. I have the 231s up front and my pedal travel is a lot, but if I pump it while slowing, after 3 it's solid.
2TH4IST
Member
[MENTION=99840]Twan[/MENTION] When I did just the 231's the pedal was solid, well that I can remember. But I think it was the same as stock or it always did the same thing, stop fine and the pedal would sink a little. I'm going to first hunt down any vacuum leaks as that is cheap and easy. Then I'll either do one of two things. First will be a 76 k5 blazer 1 1/8" master (already have one), or test out a different booster. It could be because I'm used to my NB miata's brakes. They are ROCK hard.
Finished up everything today. And bedded the brakes. It feels so damn nice! So much better then properly adjusted drums. Though it feels like the bias is more towards the front. Does anyone know what the extra cylinder does on a 2000 abs master? See pic circled in red. I'm guessing its either a internal proportioning valve or a type of accumulator due to ABS. Nothing in the FSM regarding that thing on the master.
Finished up everything today. And bedded the brakes. It feels so damn nice! So much better then properly adjusted drums. Though it feels like the bias is more towards the front. Does anyone know what the extra cylinder does on a 2000 abs master? See pic circled in red. I'm guessing its either a internal proportioning valve or a type of accumulator due to ABS. Nothing in the FSM regarding that thing on the master.
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Spiker Engineering
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Added a winch to my AOR bumper:
It looks really good man! I have the same kit from midcoma I'll put it on eventually lol
Your brake symptoms sound like the booster is losing vacuum. With the engine off you should still have a couple assisted brake pedal pushes. You might try replacing the booster vacuum check valve and grommet before you try anything else.
96 ToyRunner
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Changed oil myself and had to fix the drain plug thanks to the dealership 353,257
2TH4IST
Member
Bit the bullet, ordered a 1996 ford f350 1 1/8 bore master and adapter fittings yeah it has a m16x1.5 port . More driving around today made it very clear the bias is more towards the front, that's a bummer. So hopefully this master which is from a disc/disc vehicle will solve the bias issue. I could have also tried a non abs 4runner master but they are pricy. Maybe a residual pressure valve too, but that is somewhat a band aid. Best to just use a disc/disc master. The master was only 35 bucks too.
rideexileex
Senior Member
Going with the larger MC will make the pedal MORE stiff - I found this from experience as well when playing with my rear disc swap. I have a Blazer MC already modded to fit a 3rd gen that you're welcome to try. I too am going to be playing with a different vacuum booster - let me know what you try.
cl4Rk
Member
Upgraded recovery points. Thanks [MENTION=24804]legokcen[/MENTION] !
Trackdecal.com - Road Course Decals and Motorsports Graphics
I also replaced the bolts:
- 2x Part Number 90119A0029
- 2x Part Number 9164281235
Trackdecal.com - Road Course Decals and Motorsports Graphics
I also replaced the bolts:
- 2x Part Number 90119A0029
- 2x Part Number 9164281235
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I took some time off of work to give my new-to-me 3rd gen 4runner some Christmas love.
What we did together:
Dobinsons 2 lift kit
Rear diff love: diff relocation mod (fabricated at home), drain & fill, replaced both plugs with new OEM
Rear hatch struts
Lower ball joints Driver's
Passenger's
Super excited that I accomplished the install by myself. I have never done anything like this DIY before. The process wasn't with some hiccups, but I'm proud to share the successful outcome! I would never had attempted doing this without the wonderful resources shared online by the 4runner community. Thank you all :hatsoff:
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
Next up, I gotta find me some new chrome bumpers front and back. Anyone have any leads? I'm not liking the price I see from OEM stores.
What we did together:
Dobinsons 2 lift kit
Rear diff love: diff relocation mod (fabricated at home), drain & fill, replaced both plugs with new OEM
Rear hatch struts
Lower ball joints Driver's
Passenger's
Super excited that I accomplished the install by myself. I have never done anything like this DIY before. The process wasn't with some hiccups, but I'm proud to share the successful outcome! I would never had attempted doing this without the wonderful resources shared online by the 4runner community. Thank you all :hatsoff:
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
Next up, I gotta find me some new chrome bumpers front and back. Anyone have any leads? I'm not liking the price I see from OEM stores.
cl4Rk
Member
Looks great!
For my rear chrome sections, I used Evan-Fischer via Amazon. Fitment was not OEM-perfect, but it turned out good enough. For me, it was worth it for the price difference.
I didn’t replace the front, so I can’t give a review for that.
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Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Nice one!! I still have 50k to go. Here's a sticker for ya........
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cl4Rk
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
Another one to the 300K club. Welcome, brother. I'm at 309K right now. Here's to the journey to 400K!
Two weekends ago I changed my spark plugs and tightened my throttle, kickdown, and cruise control cables. I had to remove the air intake to get to the passenger side spark plugs so I also cleaned the MAF sensor.
Personally, these look pretty good. Probably could have gone longer.
The rubber tube connecting directly to the throttle body has been cracked for a while, but not causing any problems. I think moving everything to change the spark plugs caused the crack to leak air so I had a high idle. I ordered the parts online, but they weren't due to arrive until after Christmas. But on Monday the package showed up! :reddance:
No more cracks!
Personally, these look pretty good. Probably could have gone longer.
The rubber tube connecting directly to the throttle body has been cracked for a while, but not causing any problems. I think moving everything to change the spark plugs caused the crack to leak air so I had a high idle. I ordered the parts online, but they weren't due to arrive until after Christmas. But on Monday the package showed up! :reddance:
No more cracks!
2TH4IST
Member
Yep, well I too have the blazer master as well. Not going to install it as I'd much prefer to use a master from a vehicle that is disc all around. As per my calculations the fronts piston area is smaller on the tundra vs the 4runner, but the mustang are significantly larger then the 4runners wheel cylinders.
Currently, the pedal has longer travel then normal and is soft (NOT spongy). It stops the runner nicely, but after driving around the other day it is very clear the bias is out of whack, way more to the front. Only thing I can diag it back to is that whacky valve thing on the abs master (pic I posted a few posts back). Swapping to a different booster and toyota master ups the price substantially. I am tempted when I pull my oem master off to pull that valve thingy apart and see what it is/does.
I'm not touching the booster, the 4runners already have a dual diaphragm booster so why change it to another dual booster?
I'll update when I do the Ford master. If it is to firm, I'll try a 1 1/16 master. Which might require going to a older style toyota 4 bolt dual booster.
ETA - just checked my stock master, tracing the lines it is indeed a backwards master, the front port is the rear and the rear is the front. That needs to be noted when swapping masters. Make sure you install the lines on the correct port.
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busmup808
New member
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Looks like I got it here but they are sold out except for 400 and 500k:
Sticker– Yota High Mileage Club
Hope I can still find my 300k sticker - that was a couple years ago...
i did cop one of the Sakichi Toyoda founder's patches: Sakichi Toyoda– Yota High Mileage Club
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