octanejunkie
Elite Member
I'm dying to find a non ADD passenger extension and get rid of ADD... Lucky duck
It would go great with my Spartan locked clamshell
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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It would go great with my Spartan locked clamshell
Wired and installed an extra rear heater blower switch. Placed the switch in one of the blanks to the left of the steering column for my convenience. Spliced into the current wiring so both switches are functional.
Also wired and installed an outside ambient temperature gauge. I dremeled and filed out one of the 12V outlets to fit the gauge. Took a little bit of time and was quite messy, but I’m pleased with the install results. I used the 12V outlet connector for power/ground for the display. I had to extend the temperature probe wiring which was a little tedious due to the very small wire gauge. Zip tied the temperature probe right behind the driver side of the grille to make sure I get good airflow while stationary. Display is a little bright at night. I haven’t had a chance to drive it during the daylight yet.
I originally was going to use a Gentex 453 mirror with temperature/compass/homelink, but ended up really liking not having a rear view mirror so decided to go a different route for outside ambient temperature. If anyone wants a Gentex 453 and everything needed to function let me know. It’s a green display color which is more difficult to find.
Still need to add a switch for 2LO mod. Should be easy enough. I have a round rocker switch to try but haven’t really committed to a switch location yet. Debating between the squarish cubby on the dash bezel or putting it in the little tray right below the parking brake.
Also wired and installed an outside ambient temperature gauge. I dremeled and filed out one of the 12V outlets to fit the gauge. Took a little bit of time and was quite messy, but I’m pleased with the install results. I used the 12V outlet connector for power/ground for the display. I had to extend the temperature probe wiring which was a little tedious due to the very small wire gauge. Zip tied the temperature probe right behind the driver side of the grille to make sure I get good airflow while stationary. Display is a little bright at night. I haven’t had a chance to drive it during the daylight yet.
I originally was going to use a Gentex 453 mirror with temperature/compass/homelink, but ended up really liking not having a rear view mirror so decided to go a different route for outside ambient temperature. If anyone wants a Gentex 453 and everything needed to function let me know. It’s a green display color which is more difficult to find.
Still need to add a switch for 2LO mod. Should be easy enough. I have a round rocker switch to try but haven’t really committed to a switch location yet. Debating between the squarish cubby on the dash bezel or putting it in the little tray right below the parking brake.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
So wait a minute... you don't run a rear view mirror at all? How come? Just curious.
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No rearview mirror installed at all. I originally planned on using a Gentex mirror for outside temp display, but the mounting tab adhesive I was using kept failing so I had no mirror for about a week while I was waiting for a different adhesive and waiting for it to be warm enough for the adhesive requirements. During that time I realized I don’t miss it at all. I hardly ever use it besides seeing how close people are getting to me while I’m stopped or watching the impatient drivers behind me ride my bumper while I shift (it’s a manual so it takes a couple seconds for me to shift it smoothly and not jerk/jump when letting the clutch out). I use my side view mirrors more than anything for backing up as well. Eventually I’ll get a double din head unit with a backup camera, but that was my plan regardless of mirror/no mirror. About the only thing I miss about having that mirror is if the sun is low but shining between the two sun visors where the mirror would be blocking it.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Oh very interesting. I've been dealing with some vehicles at work lately that don't have rear view mirrors simply because you can't even see out of the back anyways, so I've been super reliant upon the side mirrors and sticking my head out the window. Makes me super nervous.
I have a Gentex mirror but I couldn't tell you the model of it. It shows the direction but that's it, I think. It's held up well over the years and I like it. The temperature display would be sweet to have though.
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Rushthezeppelin
New member
Lol I know the feeling. Sometimes I want to get a bumper sticker that says "Be patient I drive a stick". Sad thing is many youngsters have probably never even heard the term nowadays.
I had a brodozer Wrangler take the shoulder to pass me on a highway on ramp. People just don’t have any patience any more.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Hmm normally not one for stickers on my vehicles (current ones are from PO) bit it's tempting to put this combo on my 4runner.
96 ToyRunner
Member
Got the rear main seal and valve cover gasket changed at 370,060
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Got a build thread? Pictures from the job?
MCgrease08
New member
Recent suspension lift caused CV boots to tear, so I spent the weekend pulling axles and doing the boot stretch / reboot following Timmy's video. I also put in new axle seals while I had them out.
Overall none of it was too difficult. Getting the tripod off the shaft took a lot more whacking with the mallet than I was hoping for, but I think the axles are original and seemed to be in great shape for being 25 years old. Also, the dust shield on the driver's side wheel was completely roached and rusted through. I ended up just pulling the whole thing off.
I didn't feel great about the clamps on the bottom of the inner boot after the stretch. There is a small gap between the boot and the shaft due to the boot sleeve sitting lower on the tapered part of the shaft. I'm hoping that the piece of old boot inside on the proper mounting spot keeps most of the new grease in. Just for good measure I wrapped some silicone tape on the edge of the boot and over the shaft. Will keep an eye on things for a while.
Passenger side lock ring did give me some grief getting the axle back in, but eventually got it after smearing some grease around it to keep it sort of held in place.
Next up is the Tundra brake upgrade since wheels are off. After that, the body work starts on the rocker panels.
Overall none of it was too difficult. Getting the tripod off the shaft took a lot more whacking with the mallet than I was hoping for, but I think the axles are original and seemed to be in great shape for being 25 years old. Also, the dust shield on the driver's side wheel was completely roached and rusted through. I ended up just pulling the whole thing off.
I didn't feel great about the clamps on the bottom of the inner boot after the stretch. There is a small gap between the boot and the shaft due to the boot sleeve sitting lower on the tapered part of the shaft. I'm hoping that the piece of old boot inside on the proper mounting spot keeps most of the new grease in. Just for good measure I wrapped some silicone tape on the edge of the boot and over the shaft. Will keep an eye on things for a while.
Passenger side lock ring did give me some grief getting the axle back in, but eventually got it after smearing some grease around it to keep it sort of held in place.
Next up is the Tundra brake upgrade since wheels are off. After that, the body work starts on the rocker panels.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Installed the OEM Cold Spec Hatch Struts to replace the worn out 5 year old Strongarm 6815's, since I didn't want to put in the now-Chinese made 6815's.
The OEM struts come with brand new brackets and all hardware, including the bushings. And they are MASSIVE, way bigger than 6815's. Bigger is better, right?
The OEM struts come with brand new brackets and all hardware, including the bushings. And they are MASSIVE, way bigger than 6815's. Bigger is better, right?
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Those look burly! Thank you for the heads up!! Mine will be here today.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Went to the pick n pull to grab some LCAs I had scoped out for a whiteline bushing replacement. Had to hoist the front of the frame up as somebody had taken the passenger frame from the back of the wheel well to the rear sway bar end link attachment spot and it was resting on the LBJ studs. Driver came off just fine but passenger had a frozen cam on the front. Hit it with ATF and PB and went to try the LCA on one that was in a front end but I'm pretty sure the passenger side of the frame was good. Same thing, frozen front cam. Came back and the first one was still frozen. Going to have to head back out with a sawzall at some point or maybe if I'm lucky the PB will have worked it's way into that cam and unstuck it >< Ended up grabbing another stock recovery hook while I was there though so that I can have hooks on both sides.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Well went back for round two this morning to try and use the makeshift press technique with no dice. Found a kind Mexican gentleman named David that was able to saw the last stuck cam out for me. Hit the bushings with some PB around noon and fiddled around with them tonight. Already managed to pop one bushing out on the passenger arm, was surprisingly easy, especially considering that is the bushing with the frozen cam. Loaded up the bushing with my stock bottle jack and hit it with some heat and she slid out a 1/4", the rest of the way required very little force. Other one is a bit more stubborn unfortunately so she gets to soak up some more PB. Still debating whether I'm going to completely strip them down and repaint them, Definitely want to at least get them very cleaned up though. Both of them have not much rust. If I do go the clear and repaint route do I just wire wheel all the old paint off or get something like a flap disk? I assume I would want to clean them up with mineral spirits, use a self etching primer and then a frame paint? I've never really painted anything before but this is what I've gathered just in passing hanging out on this forum and looking at fab shop youtube video stuff. Also does anyone know the torque specs for the stock recovery hooks on the front? I want to install that spare I got on the driver side. Probably a good idea to use some locktite too y'all think? Red or blue?
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I was left unattended next to a computer for too long and ordered some parts from ECGS.
4.88 geared front diff with a Harrop e-locker
4.88 geared rear e-locker diff
I have the old 4.10 front and (slightly whiny) rear diffs sitting in the basement, so I can get my $1300 in core charges back right away, then swap out the 4.30 diffs in the car whenever the weather is nice.
4.88 geared front diff with a Harrop e-locker
4.88 geared rear e-locker diff
I have the old 4.10 front and (slightly whiny) rear diffs sitting in the basement, so I can get my $1300 in core charges back right away, then swap out the 4.30 diffs in the car whenever the weather is nice.
Devbot
New member
Brake pedal fixed itself :whoo:
For the past year or two (whenever I replaced my brakes) I've had a soft pedal feel I could NEVER solve no matter what I did. I've replaced soft lines, hard lines, bled them maybe 10 times, tripped ABS numerous times and bled them, completely drained all fluid, everything short of replacing the master/ABS/booster. Some things would permanently help a little, but most would only help for a few days before going back to normal.
Well today I was driving to work, hear a small pop while braking and turning, and suddenly I had full pressure again! I don't have a clue what popped or if it was even outside the vehicle (radio was turned up and I have a bunch of shit on my rear seats right now), but it's certainly a mile better than when I left the house this morning. Either way I'm not complaining
Now if only I could figure out why my brake fluid keeps turning blue...
For the past year or two (whenever I replaced my brakes) I've had a soft pedal feel I could NEVER solve no matter what I did. I've replaced soft lines, hard lines, bled them maybe 10 times, tripped ABS numerous times and bled them, completely drained all fluid, everything short of replacing the master/ABS/booster. Some things would permanently help a little, but most would only help for a few days before going back to normal.
Well today I was driving to work, hear a small pop while braking and turning, and suddenly I had full pressure again! I don't have a clue what popped or if it was even outside the vehicle (radio was turned up and I have a bunch of shit on my rear seats right now), but it's certainly a mile better than when I left the house this morning. Either way I'm not complaining
Now if only I could figure out why my brake fluid keeps turning blue...
corrupt3db0x
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corrupt3db0x
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