You can also re adjust the master cylinder so it has more tension on the pedal. The thing that attaches to the pedal, it can be adjusted.
used parts links i have accumulated
Toyota Truck Dismantlers: body parts/axles etc
The Toy Man (newberg, OR) http://www.thetoyotaman.com/
MazToy (troutdale, OR)maztoy.com
A1 Light Truck parts (PDX) http://www.a-1truckparts.com/index.htm
Davez Off Road: Dave'z Off Road Performance - Specializing in Toyota Trucks
Yotayard (colorado) Yota Yard - Used Toyota Parts
Jim's Got Parts (Denver, CO) Jim's Used Toyota Truck Parts
California Mini Trucks (Cali) California Mini Truck
Rancho Toyota Truck Dismantler (Cali) Used OEM Toyota Auto, Truck and Suv Parts Recycling
toy truckc (CA) http://www.toytruckscalifornia.com/
Toy Connection (CA) http://www.toyconnection4x4.com/home.html
All Toyota Truck and SUV (CA) All Toyota Truck & SUV Parts
ToyoKings (FLA) Toyo Kings, Inc.
Yotatech Classifields :YotaTech Classifieds - YotaTech Forums
TTORA Classifieds: Panjo Marketplace
Pirate classifieds: Classifieds - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
Parts Locators: Auto Parts Locator >> Used Auto Parts, Engines, Transmissions, Car/Truck Body Parts (Junkyard & Salvage Yard Parts)
Find Used Auto Parts, Car Parts
Marlin Crawler classifieds: Parts For Sale
DeNaples (Dunmore, PA) DENAPLES.COM
The Tacos have a linear spring and the T4Rs have a horseshoe/ "U" spring. The linear spring is upgradeable on the 4Runner pedal.
-Chuckles89
From what I can find online, Tacomas had the same radial spring as 4runners, but quite a few guys remove them and replace with the linear spring similar to the brake pedal.
The radial spring is more than a return spring though, so it makes operating the clutch different. The swap is mostly done due to the annoying creak and constant wear of the plastic spring-retaining bushings.
I think I can use the Tacoma guts on a 4Runner bracket ordered through the dealer or other OE outlet, but a confirmation of that would be awesome.
FSM Clutch specs (from my paper '99 4Runner FSM):
1. CHECK THAT PEDAL HEIGHT IS CORRECT
Pedal Height above Floor Panel: 175 - 185mm
Pedal Height above Asphalt sheet: 172 - 182mm
2. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST PEDAL HEIGHT
Loosen the lock nut and turn the stopper bolt until the height is correct. Tighten the locknut.
3. CHECK THAT PEDAL FREEPLAY AND PUSH ROD FREEPLAY ARE CORRECT
Push in on the pedal until the beginning of clutch resistance is felt.
Pedal freeplay: 5.0 - 15.0mm
Gently push on the pedal until the resistance begins to increase a little.
Push rod freeplay: 1.0 - 5.0mm
4. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST PEDAL FREEPLAY AND PUSHROD FREEPLAY.
a) Loosen the lock nut and turn the pushrod until freeplay and the pushrod play are correct.
b) Tighten the locknut.
c) After adjusting the pedal freeplay, check the pedal height.
d) Connect the air duct and install the lower finish panel.
5. CHECK CLUTCH RELEASE POINT
a) Pull parking brake and install wheel stopper.
b)Start engine and idle the engine
c)Without depressing the clutch pedal, slowly shift the shift lever until the gears contact.
d)Gradually depress the clutch pedal and measure the stroke distance from the point the gear noise stops (releae point) up to the full stroke end position.
Standard distance: 25mm (0.98in) or more (From pedal stroke end position to release point)
If the distance is not as specified, perform the following operation.
-Check pedal height
-Check push rod play and pedal freeplay
-Bleed the clutch line
-Check the clutch cover and disc.
Here's another article that shows the old and new clutch pedal bracket "U" shaped hollow and the old an new spring:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/208970-clutch-pedal-issue-97-sr5-226k.html
I am not familiar with the 2.4 but I run my 3.4 without a spring all together.
AND I have always had the squeaky pedal (dealer fixed once at 30k miles).
Troubleshooting: On Toyota Tacoma trucks equipped with manual transmissions, a squeak or grind is often heard when pushing down on the clutch pedal. This squeak or grind can also be confused with another clutch related problem - so please make sure you are performing the proper repair for the problem you are encountering. Take time to read the information below- and you should be able to take a look at your current clutch pedal turnover bushing and make a decision if it needs to be replaced.
They said it was highly unusual for a Toyota clutch pedal to squeak and that they couldn't figure out why it did that.
I mostly did it to get rid of the horrendous squeak the torsion spring made.
Added bonuses = better contact with the CC switch and better clutch pedal feel (IMO).
And FWIW, the brake pedal return spring I used (highly recommend this over the spring used in the OP - even the OP eventually made the switch to the brake return spring) has a little bit of wiggle room at the top.
Thats BS! I've owned 3 manual toyotas (95 4Runner, 2011 Tacoma and 97 4Runner) and all three of them squeaked! I bought the Tacoma brand new too.
So, if you're like me, you wait until the squeal from your clutch pedal is driving you absolutely insane then you do something about it. Replacing the clutch pedal bushings is a fairly straight forward project. It also seems to be a near annual event for my truck. You will need the new bushings, a few tools, and an hour or so to complete the replacement.
Toyota Part Numbers for Replacement Bushings:
90386-05018 - 2 ea (Round for the sides of the spring)
90389-05017 - 1 ea (U-shaped for the center of the spring/pedal groove)
90386-13007 - 2 ea (Round for the center pivot tube of the clutch pedal)
90386-08002 - 1 ea (fork plunger through pin bushing)
90949-03022 - 1 ea (spring)
Tools used:
3/8 ratchet
Various ratchet extensions
14mm, 12mm, 10mm sockets
14mm wrench
Philips/Standard screwdriver
Channel locks
Grease
Brute strength
Them plastic bushings keep failing on me and there like $4.00ea at the stealership so I decided to make this a permanent fix. Cost me About $7.00 to replace all the bushings and took about 30min to make them fit right.
Anyone with a 5spd 3rd gen 4Runner knows that Toyota dropped the ball with their design of the clutch pedal assist/return spring. Last week I entered round three of my battle with this little issue, and I would like to share my current solution in case it helps others.
I pulled out the factory spring and replaced it with a linear spring, which was the popular solution at the time.
Things worked fine for about a year, and then during a recent trip to Oregon the bronze bushing broke and wound up in my floor mat. Awesome.
I don't have a welder, so I used some metal epoxy to glue on steel side plates and to fill in the worn out area. My idea was to increase the surface area so it wouldn't wear through so quickly.
I then made a new bronze bushing and put it in place and re-installed the spring (after the epoxy cured overnight). Conveniently this new bushing failed after about 20s of testing on the bench, so the spring came back out. And to make things more fun the spring pressure was strong enough that it popped the new side plates off. Crap.
I needed the truck the work the next day so out came more tools. I drilled a hole through the side plates and bolted them in place. And since I had one sitting around I put a factory plastic bushing in place. It failed after about 15s of testing on the bench.
For those keeping score we are now at spring 2 and Matt 0. I was going to make another bronze bushing, but bronze is very fragile and as soon as it deforms due to pressure it crumbles. After a quick trip to the hardware store I came home with some thick wall nylon spacers. Here are the spacers and the remains of the bronze and plastic bushings.
At this point I decided that I would probably have to replace the clutch pedal, so it was time to have some fun. I used a file to widen the notch, and then machined the nylon bushing to fit, attempting to keep as much wall thickness as possible. This nylon is very tough and a pain to machine, which is a good sign.
If you take a look at your spring while attached to your pedal assembly; press the clutch down with your hand and note how much the spring flexes and forms a "V" (and rubs its coils). Some springs, once removed can be "bent" back. Some should be replaced and some folks don't care about a little tiny squeek.
In either case, these main bushings are largely responsible for a lot of the "slop" in your pedal. The spring is one source of squeaks (at least inside).
Since this Toyota had a squeak that the dealer couldn't fix under warranty, the reason for the squeak might actually be inherent, somehow, in the design.
This thread implies that the torsion spring itself is the cause of the squeak (and not bushing wear!) perhaps due to metal-on-metal rubbing of the horseshoe-shaped-spring coils?
Clutch squeak Linear Spring swap (TW how to)
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-squeak-linear-spring-swap-tw-how-to.159429/page-5
hremoved the torsion spring altogether. Why they designed something so complex for that application is beyond me.[/QUOTE]
It's great that you provide experimental experience, since those of us merely contemplating the move, need to know the ramifications.
The suggestion to ditch the torsion spring in favor of the linear spring still brings up a question that I would LOVE if someone could answer.
[B]In the OEM setup, what exactly forces the pedal to return?[/B]
a. Is it a combination of the pressure plate plus the torsion spring?
b. Or is it just the torsion spring?
If it's just the torsion spring, and not the pressure plate working "backwards" (somehow, through the hydraulics???), then it seems that "any" spring that works, should work exactly the same; so the method below stands a chance, conceptually, of being exactly equal to the torsion spring. Is that correct?
Hence my question ...