Timing Belt, Waterpump, Thermostat, Camshaft/Crankshaft Seals, Tensioner Write-Up

I know there are many write-ups and videos on how to perform the timing belt and waterpump replacement. I've read them, I've watched them, but I still come back to the instructions I wrote 10 years ago, and now have updated them when doing my 180,000 mile replacement with camshaft/crankshaft seal replacement and tensioner replacement.

I hope this process can help those who like written step by step instructions.

Timing Belt and Water-Pump Replacement

Pining here for those 2012 parts prices. This is a great write up/tutorial.

The one thing I would highlight for others is to make sure with the Schley tensioner pin it isn’t pushed in too far through the piston on the other side when installing. It can actually get jammed in the tensioner block holder and the pin won’t release (the pin bends on the end). That is why the pin that comes with the NTN/OEM tensioner at least isn’t straight, it is designed to go in only so far to be pulled out easily. Don’t ask how I know this from 2014.

If I'm understanding correctly, this would only be an issue when installing the tensioner. If the tensioner was just compressed, but never removed, then the pin could not be installed too far.

I've added a caution note to step 42.

I appreciate write-ups for jobs because I find them very helpful as research to make videos. Some people prefer write-ups over videos but I've never understood that because there's really no comparison when both are equally well done. A write-up is 2-dimensional while a video is 3-dimensional. A write-up shows a picture of what you need to remove and maybe shows the tools used but that's doesn't tell the whole story of how to get the part out. I find seeing the actual action of how somebody is getting in their with the tools to remove fasteners and pull the part out to be very helpful.

For those that would like to see videos for this job, check out the videos below.
Part 2 was added to show an easier way to get the timing belt on and to share other helpful information. I recommend you read the video descriptions and also read the comments we pinned (1st comment you see) because there's helpful information in both areas.

This post wasn't meant to be a slight towards the OP's contributions. I have heard from many people that they prefer write-ups over videos and that's cool,
but I've always preferred to follow a well done video over a well done write-up when performing a job. To each his own, I reckon.


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LittleCaesar said:

Pining here for those 2012 parts prices. This is a great write up/tutorial.

The one thing I would highlight for others is to make sure with the Schley tensioner pin it isn’t pushed in too far through the piston on the other side when installing. It can actually get jammed in the tensioner block holder and the pin won’t release (the pin bends on the end). That is why the pin that comes with the NTN/OEM tensioner at least isn’t straight, it is designed to go in only so far to be pulled out easily. Don’t ask how I know this from 2014.

Click to expand...

On this topic, the last time I did a timing belt job helping my friend Wei, we removed the tensioner and didn't use the Schley tool to retract the tensioner piston and pin it. We used a bench vice to slowly compress the piston and pin it. When we went to install the old tensioner, we realized I had pushed the pin through the piston too far and the pin was impeding me getting the tensioner fully seated and bolted up. So, you want the piston captured by the pin but if the pin sticks out the other side, you won't be able to fully seat the tensioner into the oil pump housing it affixes to.

I agree that videos are great to show you how things are done and what to watch out for, especially the "Timmy The Toolman" videos, which are superb. However, tracking progress and easily finding torque values is where a 2D writeup shines.

skjos96 said:

I agree that videos are great to show you how things are done and what to watch out for, especially the "Timmy The Toolman" videos, which are superb. However, tracking progress and easily finding torque values is where a 2D writeup shines.

Click to expand...

You make a valid point, but some guys like myself (Timmy the Toolman) and my buddy Sean [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] offer torque values in the video and sometimes offer them in other areas like the video description (which we did in this video). Look at the video description of Part 1 and you'll see we have all the torque specs listed at the end.

We chose not to piece-meal the parts together from Toyota because it's more expensive going that route. The aircabinman kit sold on Ebay was highly recommended from people on this forum and that's why we went with it to simplify the parts buying experience for our viewers.

When people use our videos, they quite often have their laptop, tablet or phone with our video playing while they are doing the job. They watch us perform a step, they pause the video, perform it themselves and then they press play to watch and perform the next step and so on and so on. That's the best way in my opinion to use a video when it's a true step by step tutorial like we make.

So, I guess it depends who makes the video and what kind of information they offer. Just like not every write-up is as detailed as yours, the same goes for videos. Some are more comprehensive than others. I think that's what separates us from most DIY Automotive channels. Our videos are much more detailed and informative than the usual YouTuber creates.

Anyway, glad you appreciate the videos we make.

That is correct Tim, and a hard lesson learned. I had compressed the tensioner in a vice, yet still managed to have the pin move forward on me as I tried to install it. What led me to get a new one in 2014 was tearing the rubber boot into pieces, couldn’t be reused.

I also have found after that the third TB job on my rig that removing the tensioner before removing the belt works best for me. For belt installation, driver’s side cam first, then idler #2, passenger side cam, then on the water pump, crank sprocket, install idler #1, then install the tensioner, rotate the cams 360 degrees, then pull the pin if all is well.

Excellent point about the pre-assembled part kits; I have added a comment right after the parts list noting this.

Your videos are super helpful and are my main go-to when tackling a new job on my Pickup, 4Runner, or GX470 - I barely have to crack open my FSM anymore.