lol simplest reason is that I'm not that great with Plastidip. I find it kinda messy, and I tend to have uneven splotches on some places.. For me, vinyl is easier to work with and is removable like Plastidip.
Who has changed the color of Front and Rear Valance
- Thread starter justagirl76
- Start date
lol simplest reason is that I'm not that great with Plastidip. I find it kinda messy, and I tend to have uneven splotches on some places.. For me, vinyl is easier to work with and is removable like Plastidip.
could you send me a link to the vinyl spec you used?
MidnightOffRoad
New member
It's $320 to swap out for factory painted OEM pieces.
Plastidip is cheap, but doesn't hold up to virtually any abuse. I'm not completely averse to using plasti dip, but not in certain applications. Given the location of the valences and their tendency to receive rocks, bugs (which require scrubbing to clean) etc, I don't recommend plasti dip. Sure you can do it. Sure it's cheap, but in the end you're just going to be frustrated. Either because it's peeling/marring and looks like crap, or that you're having to constantly take them off and recoat them.
There's bed coat or bed liner, but the texture makes it again, not an optimal choice because it tends to retain dirt and debris (and make the finish dingy or dirty looking). Holds up awesome. You can scrub the hell out of it, but it'll constantly look dirty.
Lastly there's vinyl, which I would think would be the best of the non-OEM options. You can get some vinyl wraps that are heftier and stand up better to abuse. None of them will hold up to rock spalling and you can lightly scrub to remove bugs. Assuming you don't park outside it shouldn't UV fade all that quickly (but eventually it will).
Just spend the $320 and be done with it.
Plastidip is cheap, but doesn't hold up to virtually any abuse. I'm not completely averse to using plasti dip, but not in certain applications. Given the location of the valences and their tendency to receive rocks, bugs (which require scrubbing to clean) etc, I don't recommend plasti dip. Sure you can do it. Sure it's cheap, but in the end you're just going to be frustrated. Either because it's peeling/marring and looks like crap, or that you're having to constantly take them off and recoat them.
There's bed coat or bed liner, but the texture makes it again, not an optimal choice because it tends to retain dirt and debris (and make the finish dingy or dirty looking). Holds up awesome. You can scrub the hell out of it, but it'll constantly look dirty.
Lastly there's vinyl, which I would think would be the best of the non-OEM options. You can get some vinyl wraps that are heftier and stand up better to abuse. None of them will hold up to rock spalling and you can lightly scrub to remove bugs. Assuming you don't park outside it shouldn't UV fade all that quickly (but eventually it will).
Just spend the $320 and be done with it.
I used 2k urethane satin black paint. 2 part catalyst system that wears like OEM paint. I've been meaning to share some pics, but haven't yet. It matches the black trim around the "4RUNNER" on the tailgate perfect.
https://amazon.com/2K-Hot-Rod-Satin-Black/dp/B0186NI7LQ
https://amazon.com/2K-Hot-Rod-Satin-Black/dp/B0186NI7LQ
Tried to wrap it but failed miserably. Then decided to plasti dip and did not like the finish. I ended up with some rustoleum bed liner and am happy with the way it turned out. It gives off a matted finish that matches with my powder coated roof rack and sliders.
I didn’t want to spend extra on the oem valence knowing I would want to get a front bumper later.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I didn’t want to spend extra on the oem valence knowing I would want to get a front bumper later.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It is the 3M 1080 Vehicle wrap.
Am I the only one who plasti dipped
I sprayed my valances flat black for less than $5 on the paint. My paint skill is not perfect so there are some watery marks on it, but I found spray more paint on it fix it. If it's painted properly, which is 90% on my car, I can't really tell if the part is originally black or not, it's so real. Plus you can wash it off with acetone(nail polish). In the worst case if I ruined my valances I can just buy a pair of new black valances. And the difference in price is only $5.
I sprayed my valances flat black for less than $5 on the paint. My paint skill is not perfect so there are some watery marks on it, but I found spray more paint on it fix it. If it's painted properly, which is 90% on my car, I can't really tell if the part is originally black or not, it's so real. Plus you can wash it off with acetone(nail polish). In the worst case if I ruined my valances I can just buy a pair of new black valances. And the difference in price is only $5.
I've seen in a video that a guy has his OEM black valance installed, and it got ripped off with all the clips broken when he went into some water puddle that stroked his valance. Maybe the OEM valance is not so sturdy either, and that made me less want to spend that much money on it.
Daohaus
New member
that was swellrunner that it happened to
Olddudesrule
New member
Another vote for Plasti-dip. First attempt, didn't come out perfect, but looks good IMHO. Used Plasti-dip clear over it, like the finish. Beauty of it is, it's cost efficient, and if you don't like it, just peel it off.
mrblah
Senior Member
I plastidipped mine, and has held up for the last 2 years. I've re plastidipped it a few times, not because it wasn't durable, it was because I go through these either OEM or blacked out phases.....
The valences will not hold up to any type of on or offload abuse...its strictly there for aesthetics
The valences will not hold up to any type of on or offload abuse...its strictly there for aesthetics
donlapalma
New member
Hey guys. Gonna bump this thread to ask a question about the OEM TRD valances. I'm just trying to confirm if the parts are matte or if they have a slight sheen/gloss to them. If anybody has the part numbers I would appreciate if you could share those with me.
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
heisenbise
New member
I believe these are the right ones
Front 53901-35250
Rear 52169-35120
They call it matte, but I'd say the sheen is more of a satin
Front 53901-35250
Rear 52169-35120
They call it matte, but I'd say the sheen is more of a satin
donlapalma
New member
Perfect. Thank you very much!
Off-choader
New member
I just did the front this weekend, back is up next. I soldered some PP plastic into the license plate holes then sanded them all down and painted with some black satin rustoleum and clear coat. I had to use more coats than I wanted but it turned out perfect and no more license plate holes!
I spend months researching every post and looking at every possible photo prior to deciding to use SEM Black paint. The price for TRD Pro valances, wrapping, or LineX in the Denver area was way to high in my mind. More than likely will replace bumper in the future as well. Used a lot of green frog painters tape, took my time prepping, and sprayed both the front and back without removing the bumpers. Very pleased with the results and happy I didn't remove bumpers. I often have issues and screw things up, so one less thing to worry about.
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mteolus
New member
SEM is definitely the best rattle can paint I have ever used.
