07 V8 4x4 Zerk Fitting Pics

Are you guy with the V-6 4X4 find them all. I looked, I ran my finger around everything and l only found 2 in front and 2 in back.

If you wan tot get a grease gun that is easy to work with get a air one.

air-grease-gun-989.jpg


I have been using one like this for years, it makes a big difference. Just squeeze the trigger, no more pumping. works great in tight places with the flex tube.
 
Are you guy with the V-6 4X4 find them all. I looked, I ran my finger around everything and l only found 2 in front and 2 in back.

The zerks for universal joints are buried inside the U-joints on each end of the front and rear shafts. The slip yoke zerk is near the transfer case for the front and rear drive shaft.
 
The zerks for universal joints are buried inside the U-joints on each end of the front and rear shafts. The slip yoke zerk is near the transfer case for the front and rear drive shaft.

I didn't find any on the most rear U joint. I will have to look again.
 
Crap! I think the front yoke is seized. I pumped almost 30 strokes into it, and I did not see it expand nor leak. In fact, some grease started to make its way back out of the zerk. It doesn't seem to have done any sliding for quite some time, though that is not the case for the rear yoke.

Is there any way I can force the front yoke to compress/expand? Should I mount a curb in 4H?

Is it too risky to spray some PB Blaster on the shaft to break apart any rust seal?
 
Hi There,

Can somebody explain to me what the expansion of the driveshaft would look like when pumping the slide yolk fitting?

Does it mean that the driveshaft will bulge or swell slightly or will the drive shaft just move a bit laterally (front to back)?

Say that I dont see this happening, is there a limit to the number of pumps one would want to put into the side yolk?

Thanks
 
Hi There,

Can somebody explain to me what the expansion of the driveshaft would look like when pumping the slide yolk fitting?

Say that I dont see this happening, is there a limit to the number of pumps one would want to put into the side yolk?

The shiny portion lengthens until you finally get visible seepage. It can take many tens of pumps to get there. It used to be advised to be careful how much grease was put in but, as you can see, the grease escapes easily. The Haynes manual also states to do it this way.

Single post: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/698052-post17.html
 
Hi There,

Can somebody explain to me what the expansion of the driveshaft would look like when pumping the slide yolk fitting?

Does it mean that the driveshaft will bulge or swell slightly or will the drive shaft just move a bit laterally (front to back)?

Say that I dont see this happening, is there a limit to the number of pumps one would want to put into the side yolk?

Thanks

Here's your answer.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...gs-driveshaft-08-sportedition.html#post812470
 
I'm not very good mechanically but I bought a grease gun to try to do this myself but I don't know how it is supposed to latch on to the fitting.

I got under the car and tried to just push it on but the grease just oozed out the sides.

How does it latch on to the fitting?

Thanks
 
I'm not very good mechanically but I bought a grease gun to try to do this myself but I don't know how it is supposed to latch on to the fitting.

I got under the car and tried to just push it on but the grease just oozed out the sides.

How does it latch on to the fitting?

Thanks

Hey Johnny,

First, are you using a standard automotive Zerk pump/gun (or whatever you call it), as there are several different sizes of zerk fittings? If it is, then I would say that you clean the zerk with a towel before attempting to latch, so that you create a better seal and prevent any debris from being pushed in.

Normally, you latch by pushing the fitting head on, not on an angle. I use a grease gun that has a flex-tube hose, as it is a heck of a lot easier to latch when working with the tight areas of the front slider. If you are using the non-flex hose, you might need to rotate the shaft so that it becomes more accessible.

Elias
 
Both quotes are from previous post by Buckfever.

"I tried to observe for that expansion, when I was greasing up the front slide yoke zerk, I couldn't see anything after pumping a good amount in so I stopped. I don't have a good rule of thumb on that. "

(you can see the drive saft expand, but it is difficult to observe)

"For the U joint, you can actually hear when it finally starts to express, although you can visually confrim it, 6-7 pumps is all it took. I'm putting in around 16-17 pumps on the Slide Yoke fittings. I've read that you don't want to put too much, but then the guys that are successful at eliminating the clunck via greasing the driveshaft, have reported being aggressive."

(It took me more than 20 pumps on the front and back slide yoke to make the shafts expand. The shafts only expanded about the size of this dash ( - ). I hope that is not too much!)

Thanks for the great pics Buckfever!

Cheers


I feel the same way: I have re-greased mine probably 7 times since I bought it in January, the clunk returns after just a few days...I may just have to get aggressive... anyone else just pump in a SH*T load in and have it fix the issue?

I usually pump in about 4-8 shots and it works but just not very long! using the Mobile 1 Syn.

EDIT***

JB is one such bold guy to have done this: Over pumping should not be an issue if the seal is not damaged by the excess grease. I think he may have proved this... THANKS JB
 
Last edited:
Worked for me!

Thanks for this great post. I followed the procedure outlined here and it worked perfectly. No more drive-line clunking.

Just to clarify, I too could only find three zerks, two at the front and one in the rear. I used Mobil 1 Synthetic grease.

I just pumped grease into the fittings until it started to weep out of the joints, then stopped. Seems like it's not possible to put too much in as it starts to seep out one the joint is full.

I will update further once I have drive the car for a few weeks.

Thanks all
 
Thanks for this great post. I followed the procedure outlined here and it worked perfectly. No more drive-line clunking.

Just to clarify, I too could only find three zerks, two at the front and one in the rear. I used Mobil 1 Synthetic grease.

I just pumped grease into the fittings until it started to weep out of the joints, then stopped. Seems like it's not possible to put too much in as it starts to seep out one the joint is full.

I will update further once I have drive the car for a few weeks.

Thanks all

If you scroll further down the thread it shows the location of all 6 fittings.
 
Thanks Buckfever and others who've added to this thread!

I managed to find all 6 pretty easily! The pictures and advice were invaluable.

I used a full-size grease gun with a flexible hose and put the front tires on ramps to get a little more room under the truck. Next time I'll try without the ramps now that I know where the zerks are. It was my first time under the truck since buying it in October of this year so having pictures to reference really made a difference.

The other post I referenced was this one.
 
Any tricks to get the gun off the zerk nipple?

Sucker takes a strong pull and I always seem to bust my knuckles.


My clunk has been gone since I've started greasing the driveline components myself.
 
Any tricks to get the gun off the zerk nipple?

Sucker takes a strong pull and I always seem to bust my knuckles.


My clunk has been gone since I've started greasing the driveline components myself.

I think the tube end on the hose that sticks on the zerk should have a twist to tighten or loosen the end to make it easier to pull off.
 
I pumped the slip yoke just as full as can be and completely eliminated the thunk. Don't be shy. 20-30 pumps. You will see tHe 2 halves slide apart when full.
 

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