12v Constant on and/or switched power

limamike

New member
I apologize in advance for this thread...

So, I've done a bunch of searching and concluded that: 1. I'm horrible at searching or 2. No one has yet done this mod on a 5th Gen 4runner. I'm going to assume the former, but I'll ask the question anyway.

Has anyone successfully modified their 12v power (cigarette) outlets to be on all the time or to be on a switch? If so, can someone point me in the right direction, please?

In case it hasn't been done, I've read through the 4th Gen modification here: Toyota 4Runner Constant Full Time 12V Power Outlet Mod and looking at the schematic for the 4th Gen vs our 5th Gen it became apparent that this particular approach to the mod wouldn't work (or so it seems to me, at least) since he's routing power around the relay located before the junction box. On the 5th Gen, for both those with and without a 120v outlet, everything goes directly through the junction box without a relay (see attached schematic).

So, does anyone have any ideas on this? Anyone done some exploring with a multimeter?
 

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Someone will probably post this before I get a chance to get out to mine, but- I remember seeing a few unused blanks in the fusebox under the drivers dash that were + 12v all the time. Just plug in a mini-fuse tap and run the wire to the lighters. The grounds are white wires with black stripes, and the hot sides that I have seen are green (haven't checked them all). You can leave the ground alone, cut the hot and hookup the new power wire with a butt connector. Make sure you insulate the loose wire end, or you will get a short. I will check back when I get a chance to update if needed!
 
I apologize in advance for this thread...

So, I've done a bunch of searching and concluded that: 1. I'm horrible at searching or 2. No one has yet done this mod on a 5th Gen 4runner. I'm going to assume the former, but I'll ask the question anyway.

Has anyone successfully modified their 12v power (cigarette) outlets to be on all the time or to be on a switch? If so, can someone point me in the right direction, please?

In case it hasn't been done, I've read through the 4th Gen modification here: Toyota 4Runner Constant Full Time 12V Power Outlet Mod and looking at the schematic for the 4th Gen vs our 5th Gen it became apparent that this particular approach to the mod wouldn't work (or so it seems to me, at least) since he's routing power around the relay located before the junction box. On the 5th Gen, for both those with and without a 120v outlet, everything goes directly through the junction box without a relay (see attached schematic).

So, does anyone have any ideas on this? Anyone done some exploring with a multimeter?

Forgive my ignorance, and I super-promise that I'm not trying to be a smart-ass, but...

...what is the thinking behind doing this? Why would you do this?
 
Someone will probably post this before I get a chance to get out to mine, but- I remember seeing a few unused blanks in the fusebox under the drivers dash that were + 12v all the time. Just plug in a mini-fuse tap and run the wire to the lighters. The grounds are white wires with black stripes, and the hot sides that I have seen are green (haven't checked them all). You can leave the ground alone, cut the hot and hookup the new power wire with a butt connector. Make sure you insulate the loose wire end, or you will get a short. I will check back when I get a chance to update if needed!

Awesome! I'm going to check it out this weekend.
 
Forgive my ignorance, and I super-promise that I'm not trying to be a smart-ass, but...

...what is the thinking behind doing this? Why would you do this?
The power outlets are not on by default, which is a huge PITA when you stick your cell charger in the center console but forget to turn on the outlets. Also, trickle chargers for cell phones use very little power in the span of a few hours so charging your phone while you are having dinner or something would be a nice option.
 
Forgive my ignorance, and I super-promise that I'm not trying to be a smart-ass, but...

...what is the thinking behind doing this? Why would you do this?

I want to do it to the 12v outlet on the storage area so you don't need the ignition "on" to have power to run, say an inflator for an air mattress, etc. Why, you want to do another writeup???
 
Forgive my ignorance, and I super-promise that I'm not trying to be a smart-ass, but...

...what is the thinking behind doing this? Why would you do this?


Well, first of all, I plan on doing a dual battery setup in the near future, so it would allow me to run accessories off of one battery at all times while camping or working out of my truck without having the key in the ignition.

Specifically, I'd like it on a switch for a few things:

1. I have a refrigerator in my truck which I would like to stay-on when I have the truck parked without having to leave it on ACC (i.e while filling the gas tank, camping, etc).

2. I have a vehicle "blackbox" which is essentially just a dual channel (in-cab and dash view) geo-rectified DVR with gyros. So, at a certain G-rating on X, Y, or Z it will record as an "event" on an SD card and mark the video 15 seconds before and 60 seconds after the "event". It also records at all times and overwrites itself after the SD card is full. So, I'd like to be able to leave it recording in certain situations since I live in the DC metro area...

3. For the normal incidental stuff like being able to charge my phone (or other device) without having to have my key in the ignition.

Does that make sense?
 
Can't tell from the wiring diagram you posted, but I would guess that the relay you're looking for is upstream of the 15A P/OUTLET fuse.
 
You could also use a switch without a relay= provided the switch could handle the load . I would think a 10 amp SPDT switch (been writing that ALOT lately) would do the trick. The outlet would be powered like this- One side of switch- ignition on, other side- hot all the time.
Cut the hot wire going to the lighter socket. Center switch post goes to hot on lighter socket side, two outside switch posts are power feeds. One from the ignition wire you cut, the other to the positive 12v source...
 
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You could also use a switch without a relay= provided the switch could handle the load . I would think a 10 amp SPDT switch (been writing that ALOT lately) would do the trick. The outlet would be powered like this- One side of switch- ignition on, other side- hot all the time.
Cut the hot wire going to the lighter socket. Center switch post goes to hot on lighter socket side, two outside switch posts are power feeds. One from the ignition wire you cut, the other to the positive 12v source...

That makes sense and is pretty much what I was thinking... that way I could have it "default" and the other way I could have it hot all the time. My issue at this point is that I live in a high-rise building with underground parking that explicitly prohibits "automotive work". It's tough for me to find space to work. I was hoping someone would have said, "Oh, man! That's such a coincidence! I just finished that mod last night. Here's the write-up!" :shrug:
 
Well, first of all, I plan on doing a dual battery setup in the near future, so it would allow me to run accessories off of one battery at all times while camping or working out of my truck without having the key in the ignition.

Specifically, I'd like it on a switch for a few things:

1. I have a refrigerator in my truck which I would like to stay-on when I have the truck parked without having to leave it on ACC (i.e while filling the gas tank, camping, etc).

2. I have a vehicle "blackbox" which is essentially just a dual channel (in-cab and dash view) geo-rectified DVR with gyros. So, at a certain G-rating on X, Y, or Z it will record as an "event" on an SD card and mark the video 15 seconds before and 60 seconds after the "event". It also records at all times and overwrites itself after the SD card is full. So, I'd like to be able to leave it recording in certain situations since I live in the DC metro area...

3. For the normal incidental stuff like being able to charge my phone (or other device) without having to have my key in the ignition.

Does that make sense?

It makes sense.

And I'm wowed by it. That's wicked!
 
I want to do it to the 12v outlet on the storage area so you don't need the ignition "on" to have power to run, say an inflator for an air mattress, etc. Why, you want to do another writeup???

Looks like there might be a demand for it. We just might have to...
 
Take a look at the "Power Source" diagram. On pg 5 you will see the 15A fuse in the gray area. This is the "MAIN BODY ECU (MULTIPLEX NETWORK BODY ECU)". It has the relay to control the power going to the outlets. This of course get controlled by the ignition. When I get more time, I'll try to come up with some kind of solution. Until then....
 
Take a look at the "Power Source" diagram. On pg 5 you will see the 15A fuse in the gray area. This is the "MAIN BODY ECU (MULTIPLEX NETWORK BODY ECU)". It has the relay to control the power going to the outlets. This of course get controlled by the ignition. When I get more time, I'll try to come up with some kind of solution. Until then....
I think we ran into this with the fog light discussion, too. Toyota's sealed all the relays into an ECU or three which prevents the kind of wire jumper mods done with the 4th Gen. Wiring around it seems to be the only real option.
 
I apologize in advance for this thread...
... So, does anyone have any ideas on this? Anyone done some exploring with a multimeter?

I don't have access to a 5th Gen but did this mod way back on my '04 (see link in my signature.)
Can you post more of the electrical diagram, specifically the power source routing, ahead of the 15A fuse?
 
I don't see why all cars have a constant 12v power source;alot of cars now have the constant power which is nice,even my wife's Focus has it.
 
bump...

Anyone have any updates on this? Has anyone tried the 4th Gen mod? I found the fuse in the engine compartment, but in the owners manual there a bunch of other things attached to it besides just the outlets and it worries me. I am hoping someone can shed some light. I finally have my Kodiac Dual battery installed and I can't even use it really. Like the amateur I am, I assumed that once I had the dual battery connected that the switch included in the dual battery setup would turn the outlets on. PLEASE, someone help!
:roadkill:
 

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