Finally got around to installing a 12 volt outlet that is not switched off with the ignition. Not an overly complicated job but took 2+ hours since I needed to be careful with the plastic parts in the console.
1. had a 12 volt socket scavanged from a bad battery power pack.
2. pulled console "gently" up and back after removing transfer case knob and putting shifter in neutral. No need to unhook wiring.
3. used red and black #16 wire taped into a side by side line that I fed through the rubber grommet where the AC passes through the firewall. This comes in just above the gas pedal.
4. pulled off the driver's side panel just right of the pedal in front of the console, not absolutely necessary but curious and made passing the wires into the console easier.
5. drilled a hole into the passenger side of the console and installed the socket. A bit of a pain as there is a bundle of wires right there that I had to forcibly pull out of the way.
6. put disconnects on both wires where they join the socket.
7. in the engine compartment, ran the wires along the main wiring harness going to the fuse box, fastened with cable ties. Connected the black (ground) wire using a crimp on eye to the ground strap bolted to the body next to the battery.
8. put an inline mini fuse holder on the red line with butt connecters and then put a crimp on eye and fastened that to the positive battery cable. Fuse/hot line runs between the battery and the fuse box, easy access and out of the way. Currently using a 10Amp fuse. Note: when buying fuse holder get one that holds the mini fuses that Toyota uses then you won't need to carry different extras.
9. checked circuit out and reinstalled all panels. Works great.
Incidentally, I chose the side of the console as it was the easiest spot to work with since there was room beside the transfer case shifter. I would have preferred the side of the dash but didn't want to remove any more panels then necessary, sooner or later something breaks. Also used heat shrink tubing on all the electrical connections (love that stuff!)
Pictures in album file under 12Volt outlet
1. had a 12 volt socket scavanged from a bad battery power pack.
2. pulled console "gently" up and back after removing transfer case knob and putting shifter in neutral. No need to unhook wiring.
3. used red and black #16 wire taped into a side by side line that I fed through the rubber grommet where the AC passes through the firewall. This comes in just above the gas pedal.
4. pulled off the driver's side panel just right of the pedal in front of the console, not absolutely necessary but curious and made passing the wires into the console easier.
5. drilled a hole into the passenger side of the console and installed the socket. A bit of a pain as there is a bundle of wires right there that I had to forcibly pull out of the way.
6. put disconnects on both wires where they join the socket.
7. in the engine compartment, ran the wires along the main wiring harness going to the fuse box, fastened with cable ties. Connected the black (ground) wire using a crimp on eye to the ground strap bolted to the body next to the battery.
8. put an inline mini fuse holder on the red line with butt connecters and then put a crimp on eye and fastened that to the positive battery cable. Fuse/hot line runs between the battery and the fuse box, easy access and out of the way. Currently using a 10Amp fuse. Note: when buying fuse holder get one that holds the mini fuses that Toyota uses then you won't need to carry different extras.
9. checked circuit out and reinstalled all panels. Works great.
Incidentally, I chose the side of the console as it was the easiest spot to work with since there was room beside the transfer case shifter. I would have preferred the side of the dash but didn't want to remove any more panels then necessary, sooner or later something breaks. Also used heat shrink tubing on all the electrical connections (love that stuff!)
Pictures in album file under 12Volt outlet
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