15 amp Dome fuse keeps frying!

[trail_runner]

I put brand new alternator, 100 amp alt fuse, and new battery.
Took battery to charge with a rating of 614 brand.

I accidenty switched neg to pos terminal on bat in the dark which blew some fuse. Replaced fuses now dome fuse keeps frying.
With new things and a bat charge at 614 out of 550 will I need to upgrade amperage size.

Any opinion will help.

No dome lights. No dash instrument light. No radio. And my lock switch do not work now.

 

[TheDurk]

I put brand new alternator, 100 amp alt fuse, and new battery.
Took battery to charge with a rating of 614 brand.

I accidenty switched neg to pos terminal on bat in the dark which blew some fuse. Replaced fuses now dome fuse keeps frying.
With new things and a bat charge at 614 out of 550 will I need to upgrade amperage size.

Any opinion will help.

No dome lights. No dash instrument light. No radio. And my lock switch do not work now.

Here is the list of stuff powered by DOME fuse on a 2002:
Auto Antenna
Cigarette Lighter and Clock
Combination Meter
Garage Door Opener
Headlight (w/ Daytime Running Light)
Interior Light
Radio and Player

Lights don't care about polarity (except LED's) and are probably not your problem. I'd start by unplugging your radio and see if it holds then. You can put a test light in place of the fuse--it should come on if there is a short. Then you try to make it go out by unplugging stuff. When it does, you found your short. This way you don't fry a dozen fuses before finding the problem.

PO may have powered aftermarket stuff off dome fuse, keep that in mind.

 

[Coldnapalm]

try a 20 then a 25 and if you smell something burning go back down

 

[Rashboyy]

I have a simmilar problem right now.
Mine is a '99 limited.
I mistakenly listened to my girlfriend to put the negative jumper cable on the bad battery, (after failed attempt at jumping the right way).
Im pretty sure that fried something.
So I battery was dun, and I got a new one. The larger stock 700 one.
I found a blown fuse under the hood, the 120A one that you have to unscrew each side by lifting out the whole fuse box.
The other fuse was the 15 dome light one, everything else seems to work except the radio. And it blows the fuse every time I try to put a new one in.
I assume its a short.

Have you fixed yours yet?

I let you know when I figure out mine.
:ybrick:

 

[Elton H]

try a 20 then a 25 and if you smell something burning go back down

:wow:

 

[boddeeznutz]

I put brand new alternator, 100 amp alt fuse, and new battery.
Took battery to charge with a rating of 614 brand.

I accidenty switched neg to pos terminal on bat in the dark which blew some fuse. Replaced fuses now dome fuse keeps frying.
With new things and a bat charge at 614 out of 550 will I need to upgrade amperage size.

Any opinion will help.

No dome lights. No dash instrument light. No radio. And my lock switch do not work now.

i have the same exact problem. did you finally figure out where your short was? i really need to know. i'm completely stumped at this point. one day down... no solution

 

[boddeeznutz]

I have a simmilar problem right now.
Mine is a '99 limited.
I mistakenly listened to my girlfriend to put the negative jumper cable on the bad battery, (after failed attempt at jumping the right way).
Im pretty sure that fried something.
So I battery was dun, and I got a new one. The larger stock 700 one.
I found a blown fuse under the hood, the 120A one that you have to unscrew each side by lifting out the whole fuse box.
The other fuse was the 15 dome light one, everything else seems to work except the radio. And it blows the fuse every time I try to put a new one in.
I assume its a short.

Have you fixed yours yet?

I let you know when I figure out mine.
:ybrick:

Did you figure yours out? please help!

 

[Rashboyy]

Sorry never had time to fix it.

As far as I know, there is a short in that accusatory wire some where that is attached to that 15A fuse. (I forget what color it is, I outside the country right now for work and away from my truck.)

I by passed a new wire with an inline 15A fuse to the battery to at least get my radio working. (just like installing fog lights) (you can get a wire and such fuse from any auto parts store.)

but my dome lights are still down.

I tried following the wires best I could with out taking apart my dash and over head, but they split off all over the place under the dash, and couldnt find the short. I not good with the volt meter and am having difficulty trouble shooting the problem myself.

When I have time again, I might just try and re-run new wires to the dome lights like i did with the radio.

Its a half-a$$ fix, but cheaper than taking it to the dealer, and or buying a whole new wiring harness.
If you know a mechanic that is good with electric systems, he would be your best bet.

good luck

EDIT: I did find a short, melted wires that were strung with the aftermarket alarm system on my truck (from previous owner), They seemed to be assosiated with my key fob, to unlock the doors. Nothing else was fixed, however, after I repaired those wires.

 

[Jungoes]

So i have the same problem, got a jump from a friend the first crank i knew the cables were reversed, blew the 120 amp, 15 dome, and the radio is fried,
changed the fuse and a new battery, out:
truck starts no issues, except the following :
1. No dome lights, 15 keeps blowing
2. the high beam lights work when i pull the lever but i only get normal lights when i push forward, checked all 10 amp fuses for headlamps and none blown, also checked the dimmer relay and its fine
3. After removing the radio completely the locks work fine.
no other fuses inside are blown.

checked the power leads to the radio and its getting voltage when the truck is on, but the deck is fried,
any suggestions where to check ? I heard a weird sound coming from the passenger side under the glove box when i tried cranking when i had the cables reversed, not sure what needs to get checked on that side,
any suggestions ?

 

[Rashboyy]

I never fixed it.

That 15A fuse seems to be an accessory wire.
like i said earlier, I hot wired my radio, with an inline fuse.
but my dome lights dont work, the light around my ignition key doesnt light. and my tachometer doesnt work.
An inconvenience but, the truck is running fine.
One of these days ill get it to an electrician.

 

[Jungoes]

Thanks Rashboyy,
I'm gonna do a short circuit test on all connections tomorrow with the wiring diagram, If i find the problem I will report back,
In the interim i'll run a direct with an inline fuse for the new radio.

 

[gshadow325]

try a 20 then a 25 and if you smell something burning go back down

what ever you do, DO NOT FOLLOW THIS ADVICE.

ifs it a 15, keep using 15 till you find the problem.

i dont have one of these trucks. how ever, check all your fuses witha test light or DVM to see if anything is blown.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Thanks Rashboyy,
I'm gonna do a short circuit test on all connections tomorrow with the wiring diagram, If i find the problem I will report back,
In the interim i'll run a direct with an inline fuse for the new radio.

You could systematically eliminate components and wiring sections. It's time consuming, but if you are patient, you can solve it and make your truck work like original. Let me know if you want help!

 

[Jungoes]

Iball appreciate the help,
so far i checked all switches on the Dome light circuit page 92 on the electrical section of the FSM, (pdf page 1959)
all switches fine,
i then isolated the harness from centre junction box by pulling the dark grey connector from the center junction box 3C ( page 21 electrical section pdf page 1890) disconnected the battery and still getting continuity across the 15amp dome fuse position in the main fuse box.
i'm leaning on a short somewhere along that blue and yellow wire from the engine relay box to the centre junction box,
any ideas????

 

[TheDurk]

Iball appreciate the help,
so far i checked all switches on the Dome light circuit page 92 on the electrical section of the FSM, (pdf page 1959)
all switches fine,
i then isolated the harness from centre junction box by pulling the dark grey connector from the center junction box 3C ( page 21 electrical section pdf page 1890) disconnected the battery and still getting continuity across the 15amp dome fuse position in the main fuse box.
i'm leaning on a short somewhere along that blue and yellow wire from the engine relay box to the centre junction box,
any ideas????

I'll try a wild-ass guess. Your headlight/DRL circuit is full of diodes and the main DRL relay is a more of a mini-computer and takes power from the DOME fuse. I suspect your short is in there. Try unplugging the main DRL relay (D8) and see if the DOME fuse holds. If it does, we can get down to some detailed troubleshooting.

 

[Jungoes]

thanks durk, I'm going to try that now, that makes sense as I have no high beam with the switch thrown forward but i do have high beams when i pull on it,

when i pulled the DRL module out, and with 15 amp dome fuse, there is still 12 volts across the terminals, when i pulled the battery out there is continuity to ground from the fuse terminal

pulled the DRL module out when i checked the dome continuity check but not with a fuse i will try one and see if it blows.

 

[Jungoes]

cant explain it guys, but i pulled every harness connection, all jacks, fuses and re inserted , removed drl module and re inserted,
every single thing works fine , now

 

[gshadow325]

cant explain it guys, but i pulled every harness connection, all jacks, fuses and re inserted , removed drl module and re inserted,
every single thing works fine , now

i can, you just reset some relays that were latched closed.

i am glad you kept trying to figure it out and by some stoke of luck you did.

worst part would have used that advice to keep upping the fuse till it stops blowing.

COngrats!

 

[Jungoes]

sure right! i stuck a pair of lead wires and a led light into the 15 amp fuse connection and watched the light as i adjusted the switches, pulled harness connections, removed every module, and when the light went out , I narrowed down the point which was behind the driver side relay box,
i saw no burnt connections or damaged terminals, the relays i pulled out and cycled each one with a 12 v supply, to ensure i got clicking, reinserted everything and it works :noidea::biggrin2:

 

[IBallEngineer]

sure right! i stuck a pair of lead wires and a led light into the 15 amp fuse connection and watched the light as i adjusted the switches, pulled harness connections, removed every module, and when the light went out , I narrowed down the point which was behind the driver side relay box,
i saw no burnt connections or damaged terminals, the relays i pulled out and cycled each one with a 12 v supply, to ensure i got clicking, reinserted everything and it works :noidea::biggrin2:

You solved a mystery, but you didn't solve it. I hate it when that happens!