2003 T4R Floppy Shifter
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It's been a while. I took a look at pgs 2081-2 of the manual -- some of the plastic parts snap off (carefully), removed the console box (screws), and worked my way to it. There is a long bolt at the front of that top of the shifter -- it holds the top half on (the part with the channels that the pin rides in of keeping the shifter in place normally).
I have not engineered a solution. I tried the simple stuff -- superglued the plastic back together, relubed the pin with lithium grease. It broke again in short order. I tried cutting the spring in half to reduce the pressure of the pin against the selector channels -- no joy. It is unfortunately low on my priority list until I go to sell or trade in the vehicle. As I just got new tires, I'm 50000 miles away from that.
Just be careful with the old nut -- you won't deform it and it can be reused (or even reformed back into shape with pliers). The nut just keeps the bolt in place -- there is no mechanical stress there normally. If it's snug, it won't work out of place. Oh, and don't drop it into the guts… fishing it out with a magnet is a pain. Just saying'
I LOVE the 3D printer idea. If we can get the original CAD drawings of the part, it would be cake.
TiN
New member
If someone could send me the part or a CAD file, I could definitely figure something out and may be able to print a solution.
Turns out that push nut is 4mm, not 5mm, and I was correct...it's not easy to find. I have to order a bag of 100 units from one of the local specialty fastener wholesalers as they don't sell them individually. Luckily a full bag is only $10, but will take a week to come in, so I guess I won't be stripping it down this weekend.
Did you find the pin ?
I am having same issue and from other posts here was able to determine that the pin which sits in a hole that has a spring in it had come out, this pin travels along the underside of the top/lid of the gear shifter and this is why it will get no more resistance when in D-3rd have to hold it in 3rd will still do 2nd and 1st and R and P. Getting this pin back in and it staying in place is a major pain, I almost had it went all the way up to P but just would not get out of P even when pushing that button down, wasn't about to force it. I've tried the only position that works when trying to get the lid back on which is 2nd or 1st due to having to tilt the top to get the tabs in, engine on parking brake on, that is the tricky part to this. There really isn't much of a groove that this pin travels in, it's greased and that's part of the problem too, I've been using a head/flashlight at the rear of the unit and holding the stick while trying to get all of it lined up so that the pin doesn't come out while lowering the top and sliding the top tabs into place. So, on the one hand I can't believe that it didn't take much to dislodge the pin to begin with, it's not like this unit is worn out, was treated very nicely by me it's entire life, on the other hand I don't really want to have to shell out the $$ that's wanted for this if I can even find it. Realize this post is old but just thought I'd add it here for you or anyone else. Back to the matter at hand one more time before I quit for the night.
SeanCeltiad
I am having same issue and from other posts here was able to determine that the pin which sits in a hole that has a spring in it had come out, this pin travels along the underside of the top/lid of the gear shifter and this is why it will get no more resistance when in D-3rd have to hold it in 3rd will still do 2nd and 1st and R and P. Getting this pin back in and it staying in place is a major pain, I almost had it went all the way up to P but just would not get out of P even when pushing that button down, wasn't about to force it. I've tried the only position that works when trying to get the lid back on which is 2nd or 1st due to having to tilt the top to get the tabs in, engine on parking brake on, that is the tricky part to this. There really isn't much of a groove that this pin travels in, it's greased and that's part of the problem too, I've been using a head/flashlight at the rear of the unit and holding the stick while trying to get all of it lined up so that the pin doesn't come out while lowering the top and sliding the top tabs into place. So, on the one hand I can't believe that it didn't take much to dislodge the pin to begin with, it's not like this unit is worn out, was treated very nicely by me it's entire life, on the other hand I don't really want to have to shell out the $$ that's wanted for this if I can even find it. Realize this post is old but just thought I'd add it here for you or anyone else. Back to the matter at hand one more time before I quit for the night.
SeanCeltiad
My thoughts exactly......
Poor design is the understatement of the year award for this issue at least I'm not alone in how this problem happened it shouldn't take so little to make that pin come out, all I can be glad for is that I found the pin spring still in place and no cracked plastic, I'm still trying to get it to work and like you am wondering if I should try something that will keep that pin in place. Although this is under my former LOCOBEAR ID I'm now SeanCeltiad, just happened to find this thread while trying to find another gear shift unit while doing a search online-good luck-and it is just coming up under old name. :wtf::wtf:
Poor design is the understatement of the year award for this issue at least I'm not alone in how this problem happened it shouldn't take so little to make that pin come out, all I can be glad for is that I found the pin spring still in place and no cracked plastic, I'm still trying to get it to work and like you am wondering if I should try something that will keep that pin in place. Although this is under my former LOCOBEAR ID I'm now SeanCeltiad, just happened to find this thread while trying to find another gear shift unit while doing a search online-good luck-and it is just coming up under old name. :wtf::wtf:
shifter console and ECU pics!!!!
Thought i'd toss in some pics while I have everything apart! I'm having the same issues so ended up trimming the spring (under the pin) about four rungs, cleaned the old grease and applied new grease. Seems to work like normal-ish now but my expectation is rather low for a 297xxx mile vehicle. When the time comes, I'll just pony up for a new shifter assembly from the dealer. There are many dealers who give a decent discount so it'll hurt a little less than paying full list price.
Shift control ECU. Screwdriver is pointing to the little knob that is suppose to be inside the slot on the left!
Back side of shifter ECU
Shifter assembly
The famous "pin" that keeps the shifter in place
Shifter assembly turned upside down. This is the "peak" where the pin rides up and over the top. You feel this notch when you move the shifter from left to right. This gets worn down over time.
My shifter pattern
Thought i'd toss in some pics while I have everything apart! I'm having the same issues so ended up trimming the spring (under the pin) about four rungs, cleaned the old grease and applied new grease. Seems to work like normal-ish now but my expectation is rather low for a 297xxx mile vehicle. When the time comes, I'll just pony up for a new shifter assembly from the dealer. There are many dealers who give a decent discount so it'll hurt a little less than paying full list price.
Shift control ECU. Screwdriver is pointing to the little knob that is suppose to be inside the slot on the left!
Back side of shifter ECU
Shifter assembly
The famous "pin" that keeps the shifter in place
Shifter assembly turned upside down. This is the "peak" where the pin rides up and over the top. You feel this notch when you move the shifter from left to right. This gets worn down over time.
My shifter pattern
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Shifter slippage not allowing key removal from ignition
1996 4Runner / 4wd / 6cyl
260k mi
About 50% of the time, when I put it in park, and turn the truck off, the key will stop at the middle position (eng is off, but electrics are engaged), and I am unable to remove my key. I have noticed there is significant play in the shifter as well.
After almost spending $300-$400 on a new ignition, I realized it was not the ignition but the shifter. If I keep my foot on the brake and move the shifter down and back up to Park (sometimes it takes multiple tries), and then try to rotate the key to the left and pull it out, eventually the key will come out.
I've looked into possibly buying a used shifter, but have also heard it could just be 4 bushings.
IDEAS??
1996 4Runner / 4wd / 6cyl
260k mi
About 50% of the time, when I put it in park, and turn the truck off, the key will stop at the middle position (eng is off, but electrics are engaged), and I am unable to remove my key. I have noticed there is significant play in the shifter as well.
After almost spending $300-$400 on a new ignition, I realized it was not the ignition but the shifter. If I keep my foot on the brake and move the shifter down and back up to Park (sometimes it takes multiple tries), and then try to rotate the key to the left and pull it out, eventually the key will come out.
I've looked into possibly buying a used shifter, but have also heard it could just be 4 bushings.
IDEAS??
cohuttariverrat
New member
Another 03 sloppy shifter
I have found this forum because of my shifter in 03 4.7 4runner has done the same thing everyone here has stated. It started getting a little tighter to shift into lower gears until yesterday i heard the pop sound of plastic and now have a loose/floppy shifter. I also tow in 4th often and so glad I found this forum. I will tear into this thing soon. Anyone have a good source to just purchase the whole assembly without breaking the wallet? I have to let the stealership inspect the cracking dash next week for possible recall so I will ask them about this shifter as well. Thanks everyone for your info to this problem
I have found this forum because of my shifter in 03 4.7 4runner has done the same thing everyone here has stated. It started getting a little tighter to shift into lower gears until yesterday i heard the pop sound of plastic and now have a loose/floppy shifter. I also tow in 4th often and so glad I found this forum. I will tear into this thing soon. Anyone have a good source to just purchase the whole assembly without breaking the wallet? I have to let the stealership inspect the cracking dash next week for possible recall so I will ask them about this shifter as well. Thanks everyone for your info to this problem
the_josh
New member
like everyone before, i have this same issue also. i found the part number for the assembly: 8590360020 it is $153.39 via Buy and sell everything | Parts Souq - The Middle East's Online Car Parts Marketplace
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Montego Murph
Member
I've sent a few PM's here and there, but I figured a broadcast would be more effective.
Has anyone replaced their shifter unit? I would like to get my hands on an old unit to take apart and find a way to remedy this issue while it is still in "Sticky Shift" mode before it devolves into "Floppy Shift Mode."
I have some theories but I am unable to take apart my own shifter since I rely on the truck daily for work.
Thanks all. If you are able to help, please send me a private message.
Murph
Has anyone replaced their shifter unit? I would like to get my hands on an old unit to take apart and find a way to remedy this issue while it is still in "Sticky Shift" mode before it devolves into "Floppy Shift Mode."
I have some theories but I am unable to take apart my own shifter since I rely on the truck daily for work.
Thanks all. If you are able to help, please send me a private message.
Murph
4th gen 2003 4runner shifter
Hey guys. I'm a newbie to participating in forums, although I've often benefited from the smart solutions I've managed to find by browsing through your contributions, so thought maybe it's time to try to give back. The shifter in my 2003 4runner got all loose and floppy, and I gained enough info from this forum to decide to try my own fix, and am I ever glad I did! I'll try to attach some pictures to illustrate the solution that worked for me. I unscrewed the shifter knob, pried off all the console trim and removed the shifter lid. (In order to get the lid off the shifter you have to pry the retainer clip off the hinge pin at the rear of the shifter and remove said pin) Once inside I found the problem was that little spring-loaded guide pin had popped out. That pin is seated in a plastic cylinder, the top portion of which has worn out over the years allowing the pin to lean a bit and eventually jamb and pop out. The pin is just short of 1" long, so the solution I came up with was to install a longer pin and a shorter spring. I cut about 1 1/4" off the end of an old paint roller shaft, ran a 1/4 drill in the hole so it would fit and dropped in a ball point pen spring in place of the original. Works better than new! Oh, make sure you thoroughly file the bottom perimeter of that new pin so it slides smoothly inside the cylinder.
Hey guys. I'm a newbie to participating in forums, although I've often benefited from the smart solutions I've managed to find by browsing through your contributions, so thought maybe it's time to try to give back. The shifter in my 2003 4runner got all loose and floppy, and I gained enough info from this forum to decide to try my own fix, and am I ever glad I did! I'll try to attach some pictures to illustrate the solution that worked for me. I unscrewed the shifter knob, pried off all the console trim and removed the shifter lid. (In order to get the lid off the shifter you have to pry the retainer clip off the hinge pin at the rear of the shifter and remove said pin) Once inside I found the problem was that little spring-loaded guide pin had popped out. That pin is seated in a plastic cylinder, the top portion of which has worn out over the years allowing the pin to lean a bit and eventually jamb and pop out. The pin is just short of 1" long, so the solution I came up with was to install a longer pin and a shorter spring. I cut about 1 1/4" off the end of an old paint roller shaft, ran a 1/4 drill in the hole so it would fit and dropped in a ball point pen spring in place of the original. Works better than new! Oh, make sure you thoroughly file the bottom perimeter of that new pin so it slides smoothly inside the cylinder.
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Montego Murph
Member
Wayne,
Excellent -- I'm glad someone beat me to my goal of a solution before the plastic shaft cracks, because I haven't made any progress.
I do have a question though, and I'm not saying you're wrong by any means, just genuinely curious:
What made you decide to swap in a longer pin and softer spring instead of just a softer spring (OEM sized) paired with the old pin?
Excellent -- I'm glad someone beat me to my goal of a solution before the plastic shaft cracks, because I haven't made any progress.
I do have a question though, and I'm not saying you're wrong by any means, just genuinely curious:
What made you decide to swap in a longer pin and softer spring instead of just a softer spring (OEM sized) paired with the old pin?
Montego Murph
Member
After reading what you wrote a few times, I think I'm understanding better what happened... the OEM pin scored a groove partially down the pathway of the plastic cylinder, This ultimately prevented it from traveling the full path smoothly (required to reach the lower gear selections. The longer pin rides past this groove and won't cause a problem for another 14 years.
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