2003 T4R Floppy Shifter

[Montego Murph]

Dire, that is exactly what I'm trying to figure out for the "repair kit."

The actual "floppy" problem is because of the cracked sleeve like you describe. However, if you look at the "track" that the detent pin glides along on, it gets worn into a groove over time, and trying to ride the pin out of that groove as you shift to 4-3-2-1 is what breaks the shift.

I've gotten hold of a "new" track plate, and a "bad" one as well. My plan is to determine what the problem area actually is and see if there's a solution (maybe filling it with epoxy? 3D printing something? Dunno. Maybe even somehow buying new track plates through Aisin-Warner if I could find my way into the door.

 

[Direwolf82]

Hhmmm,
I have not taken mine apart yet so I am not familiar physically with the track plate but would it work to scrap the old pin diameter completely and go with a larger pin that doesn't sit in the groove worn by the smaller pin? Still in the track piece so the shifter detent holds in place just not in the worn groove? Or instead of an oversized pin maybe something that looks like a carriage bolt and have the mushroom head (hehe) go in the track?
Maybe starting to get a little over the top but if you could clean the grooves in the track a little, get an over sized pin that doesn't fit into the old grooves and somehow add a plastic wear surface, as in Teflon or starboard type stuff, to the top of the pin it should stop the plastic from grooving again.
I am no expert, just trying to help figure out an easy way to not have to hold my shifter in almost every gear.
Any point in going further down this road do the experts here think?

 

[hankd]

would anybody be able to post the part number for the shifter assembly? i want to start keeping an eye out for these.

 

[AuSeeker]

would anybody be able to post the part number for the shifter assembly? i want to start keeping an eye out for these.

Post the year, model and engine, etc. for your T4R just to be sure on the part number, I think all of the shifters would be the same except the 2003 and 2004 V6s which are 3 speeds but it's best to use the info on your T4R to make sure the part number is correct, many us here can find the number for you when we have time to look it up.

 

[ralphwiggums]

I've had to deal with the floppy shifter issue twice.

The sleeve that the spring & detent plunger sit in had cracked (bad design because as you shift into lower gears, the angle of the sleeve/plunger changes and it puts too much force on the side wall of the sleeve).

How I fixed mine was by first taking the center console completely apart and then opening up the shifter box (?). Awhile back I had bought a repair kit for gluing plastic (stupid glove box hinge in Audi A4s), that included cyanoacrylate and powered plastic. I wadded up some electrical tape around a nail and stuck it in the sleeve and used the plastic repair kit to fill in the crack - take your time and do just a little at a time and it will build up. Left it to cure for 24 hours or so and then used a little file (Harbour Freight sells a little file set for about $8 and it's super handy) to file any rough parts in the sleeve.

To reinforce the top of the sleeve, I designed a little plastic "washer" (or sleeve extension...about 3mm-ish) in Tinkercad and used my 3d printer to print it out. Then...used the plastic repair kit to bond it to the top of the sleeve. Let it cure for 24hrs or so and then filed the center bore so the spring & detent plunger would fit tighter, but still be able to spring in and out.

Hardest part was trying to get that metal plunger to stay in while putting the top of the shifter back on...it popped out twice and is a b1tch to find under the shifter mechanism. Finally used a tool to hold it down while putting that lid back on.

 

[hankd]

Post the year, model and engine, etc. for your T4R just to be sure on the part number, I think all of the shifters would be the same except the 2003 and 2004 V6s which are 3 speeds but it's best to use the info on your T4R to make sure the part number is correct, many us here can find the number for you when we have time to look it up.

i've got a 2005 v8 4x4 sr5. i had tried looking up the part number but had a hard time.

 

[T4rman]

I haven't bought this so I can't confirm but it looks correct. This dealer is quoting $263. Good luck on the search.

8590360020 - Toyota Computer sub-assy, shift lock control | Toyota Parts Overstock

 

[thad_]

How I fixed mine

Like the rest of the guys on this thread I noticed that my truck was hard to get into 3rd. I forced it, gorilla style and it worked, I went down to 2nd and when I tried to go back up it was stuck. I again forced it and something snapped and it got all sloppy.

Took it apart according to Pearl's instructions and found the holder for the pin was broken on the left side (as normal for this thread).
Instructions: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2970838-post9.html & https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2970857-post10.htm

How I fixed mine.

I built up the hole back to it's normal size using epoxy. I let that cure for a day, put the original spring and pin back in and got the same difficulty coming back out of 2nd and it even kinda broke the epoxy I'd built up. Then I cut the spring like some guys said and that didn't help. Same results, more damage to the epoxy hole.

At this point I got out a mirror and flash light and watched the pin move across the track. I realized that the strength of the spring was pushing the pin over to the driver's side and that the hole wasn't strong enough to keep the pin straight.

So, I decided that I had 2 problems. One, the spring was too strong. Two, the pin was too short and the leverage of the pin was overcoming the ability of the hole to keep it straight. I'm saying that the pin was too short not b/c I wanted the overall total length of pin + spring to be less, on the contrary I wanted pin + spring to be the same original length. I'm saying the pin was too short because I need the pin to be farther down in the hole so that it stays straight and doesn't get slightly angled by the pressure of the spring and break the epoxy (or original) collar of the hole.

Solution was to make a longer pin and use a weaker/shorter spring. I found a little spring from an old pneumatic hammer drill and made a pin from a really big nail. Once I cut the nail head off I cut a piece ~40mm long. Then I put the new pin material in a drill press and held a metal file along it to smooth it out and round the ends. I used 150 grit and 1000 grit sandpaper to get it smooth.

After that I needed to sand a bit of the guide plate where it had rough spots or divots. I also needed to dig out the bit going into reverse a bit b/c I think it was bottoming out the shorter spring (less cushin' for the pushin' in this setup). Took about 5 min with the dremel and several trips back to the truck to check progress.

In the top of the first pic the original spring (with 2 coils cut off) and original pin. The new setup is on the bottom. The pin I created is 39mm long, the spring about 10 (didn't measure it). The last pic is what was left of the nail after I cut the top ~40mm off of it.

The setup works great. Shifting from Park all the way to low is flawless. I am pleased for sure.

 

[Kemponut]

Hey guys. I'm a newbie to participating in forums, although I've often benefited from the smart solutions I've managed to find by browsing through your contributions, so thought maybe it's time to try to give back. The shifter in my 2003 4runner got all loose and floppy, and I gained enough info from this forum to decide to try my own fix, and am I ever glad I did! I'll try to attach some pictures to illustrate the solution that worked for me. I unscrewed the shifter knob, pried off all the console trim and removed the shifter lid. (In order to get the lid off the shifter you have to pry the retainer clip off the hinge pin at the rear of the shifter and remove said pin) Once inside I found the problem was that little spring-loaded guide pin had popped out. That pin is seated in a plastic cylinder, the top portion of which has worn out over the years allowing the pin to lean a bit and eventually jamb and pop out. The pin is just short of 1" long, so the solution I came up with was to install a longer pin and a shorter spring. I cut about 1 1/4" off the end of an old paint roller shaft, ran a 1/4 drill in the hole so it would fit and dropped in a ball point pen spring in place of the original. Works better than new! Oh, make sure you thoroughly file the bottom perimeter of that new pin so it slides smoothly inside the cylinder.

This post was awesome, it got me thinking though....what was easier...finding the right sized "bullet" metal piece and appropriate spring to go with that fix combo, OR...what I saw as the original problem in a short-sighted design, was the bullet sits atop the spring and then only about 3/8" in the plastic cylinder. It needs more DEPTH to stay in position when resisting pressure!!! This is the solution previous poster and I recognized. But, I want a 1-step fix. The original design was ok, it just didn't expect resistence over time, I reckon. So, I went to Home Depot, took the "bullet" part with me, found a 1/4 inch thick white plastic "washer-like' round piece that the bullet fit into perfectly. I believed I could plastic solder this washer to the top of the black cylinder that the pin sits in. Went to Freight Harbor and bout $16 plastic solder gun with triangle head. Put the spring and bullet in place, slid the new white plastic washer over bullet, and began melting a small area at the bottom together. Was surprised at the effectiveness of this and strength of such a small melt. Went around on all 4 sides of piece and melted together as much as I could, trying to get it rounded too. I was concerned about the size or thickness of the washer, being 1/4" I wasn't sure if pin would travel properly along the undercarriage. I also pre-trimmed the pyramid shaped plastic where the pin would travel between 2nd and 1st gears. I did this to ensure pin would travel along path with my new design. Worked Like A Champ!!! For less than $20, plastic solder and all, I am tickled pink. Now that thiat's fixed, I have another related issue!!! LOL... ... ...

After complete re-assembly, I have to push down on the Park Shift Assembly Safety Button to the top and left of the gear shifter when in park to get it to go into reverse or another gear. I read this was a fuse issue, but I looked at the 7.5 amp in position #3 and it was fine. Not sure if I missed a connector during assembly or what. Anyone got any ideas?

 

[CarlosV]

Kemponut: If the black plastic cylinder where the bullet fits is still in good shape can it be reinforced with 1 or 2 small t-rap around it ?

 

[Piggity]

After complete re-assembly, I have to push down on the Park Shift Assembly Safety Button to the top and left of the gear shifter when in park to get it to go into reverse or another gear. I read this was a fuse issue, but I looked at the 7.5 amp in position #3 and it was fine. Not sure if I missed a connector during assembly or what. Anyone got any ideas?

You probably forgot the white plastic push connector on re-installation. I did that a couple times when I tried to fix my shifter.

I still need to go back in with a dremel tool and re-groove some of the track for the pin to slide on.

 

[earthrealm]

I haven't fixed mine, but the plastic holder is the little black object in which I'm holding the pin that rides in the selector track. The bottom of the pin has a spring, and that black plastic is the tube in which the metal pin rides. Seems that a small machined holder that could be properly clamped would solve our common issue. Someday, I'll get around to it.

Old thread, but am having challenges opening up the gear plastic housing..the white plastic on top, have removed it, but the lower black portion that has the gear stick tracks.

my gear cable actuator disengaged from the gear stick assy, am trying to re-engage it, but need access

 

[BackOff]

Recent shifting issue has my eyes open on these threads.

Thought i would toss these in here, 2007 T4R schems.

 

[stnick101]

Solution

Has anyone designed the cure for all our common shifter woes?

 

[jsantana]

Shift Locating Pin Replacement

I was having the issue with the lever in my GX470 not remaining in lateral positions. The pin had popped out at some point. The assembly in the GX470 is similar to that of a 4Runner. I believe this is also the case with similar year Tacomas.

I encountered this issue some time ago and decided to have a stainless steel dowel made to replace the stock one. I also found an excellent spring to provide a good shift while allowing the dowel to navigate against the assembly lid.

I've been running the above mentioned combo for about 6 months trouble free.

I'm thinking about placing a larger order to sell. Would anyone be interested in this product? If so, what would you be willing to pay?

Dropbox - Photo Aug 27, 5 03 27 PM.jpg

 

[Steveplump]

-

It is cleared

 

[VertigoPerformance]

Mines been like this for years, I just didn’t bother fixing it and it’s never been an issue.
The 470 it’s exactly the same I believe.

My fix if I ever do it will be to fill the groove the pin made in the plate with epoxy, sand flush and polish it.

Or pick up a used plate from a wrecker.

 

[CookieRoe]

I was having the issue with the lever in my GX470 not remaining in lateral positions. The pin had popped out at some point. The assembly in the GX470 is similar to that of a 4Runner. I believe this is also the case with similar year Tacomas.

I encountered this issue some time ago and decided to have a stainless steel dowel made to replace the stock one. I also found an excellent spring to provide a good shift while allowing the dowel to navigate against the assembly lid.

I've been running the above mentioned combo for about 6 months trouble free.

I'm thinking about placing a larger order to sell. Would anyone be interested in this product? If so, what would you be willing to pay?

Dropbox - Photo Aug 27, 5 03 27 PM.jpg

Intrigued. Do you have anymore pictures of it (with the spring).

My shifter from time to time will FEEL like its stuck, but will click over. I just make sure to lightly add force to the shifter and not give it a blunt "smack". I'm scared that this will eventually fail which is why I purchased a spare shifter assembly, LOL.

 

[VertigoPerformance]

Intrigued. Do you have anymore pictures of it (with the spring).

My shifter from time to time will FEEL like its stuck, but will click over. I just make sure to lightly add force to the shifter and not give it a blunt "smack". I'm scared that this will eventually fail which is why I purchased a spare shifter assembly, LOL.

Thats the pin jamming, I'd take it apart and remove the pin before something gets damaged.

I think somewhere in this topic people used a longer pin..

 

[CookieRoe]

Thats the pin jamming, I'd take it apart and remove the pin before something gets damaged.

I think somewhere in this topic people used a longer pin..

The shifter looks to be a massive PITA to take apart. When/if the it jams, then I'll tackle it. As far as a longer pin, I haven't seen where there is a consensus on how to permanently fix this. Also, where does one get this longer pin?