2004 v8 4x4 actuator replacement

[bytemaster0]

All of you with this issue, especially Jb50 (thanks for your detailed pictures!), I have a few vital questions as I tackle the 4Lo actuator in my '08 SR5 V6:

1. I'm assuming that the 4Lo actuator is identical in the V6 and the V8, as both have the same apparent design - one motor for the 4Lo. While I haven't actually opened up this part, I can hear the 4Lo motor running for 3-4 seconds. However, past this point, nothing happens - it never completes the shift into 4Lo.

Based on this, I'm assuming that the motor is not seized, as otherwise, I shouldn't be able to hear the motor running at all. Is this a correct assumption? After I shift back to 4Hi, I have to wait about 10 seconds, before attempting a 4Lo shift makes the motor run again. Once more, the motor makes noise as the actuator runs, but it doesn't shift.

2. Is there any possible way to open up the actuator housing without removing it from its location? I couldn't tell from your pictures how the actuator was located. Any insight into this is extremely helpful. Update: I just looked under the car and noticed that the "cover" screws are easily accessible - would it be possible to open up the actuator housing while it's still attached to the car, without having everything fall out? Is it somehow secured, in such a way that I could run the actuator, and then somehow "nudge" the gears to turn a bit farther as it does so? My seal seems to be perfectly okay, so I have no need to change it at this time.

3. If I loosen the bolts, will the seal keep oil from coming out of the transfer case? If I can hear the actuator moving, does the "hammer tap" method even make sense here?

Any help at all is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

[BlackWorksInc]

So how long did it take you to dissasemble the actuator case and remove the components and replace it overall? Also, did you have to time anything or were you able to just half-hazardly fit everything back into the case as long as it meshed?

Also did you take the opportunity to lube the gears with something more heavy duty? (If I had done it myself I woudl probably have gotten some high quality synthetic grease or what not just to have peace of mind.

It looks like a good alternative to tearing apart the tranfer case to get the actuator off.

 

[bytemaster0]

Noticed that there is, in fact, only one motor - I was writing this late enough that I didn't notice that there were multiple angles to the image. So, only one motor, doesn't seem seized, but no 4Lo shifting happening. Loosen the bolts to allow 1" of travel, then move it back and forth until it finally works? Or can I open it and coax it to do something?

 

[Jb50]

this pic has the plastic power distribution When you open it up there's 2 screws that hold together a plastic piece that basically connects the pins from the connector to the bottom motor. I'm sure you could leave that off try it. If that area works fine you'll have to disassemble that whole bottom unit to get to the top area. That side of it will be rather difficult. I took my TC off and flipped it upside down to work on it

 

[geurillawarfare]

Noticed that there is, in fact, only one motor - I was writing this late enough that I didn't notice that there were multiple angles to the image. So, only one motor, doesn't seem seized, but no 4Lo shifting happening. Loosen the bolts to allow 1" of travel, then move it back and forth until it finally works? Or can I open it and coax it to do something?

There are two motors, the diff lock one is right under the cover, and the 4lo one is underneath a cover plate that holds all the diff lock gears. You can't remove the plate without pulling the actuator away from the transmission and then you risk damaging the seals that are on the shafts.

FYI, the diff lock motor can be freed up by simply removing the little gear that touches the motor worm gear, then rotating the motor back and forth with a small screwdriver or hook and pick set until it starts to free. Then, disconnect the electrical connector, and use 12V/1A battery charger to run motor back and forth while spraying silicone lube into it.


FYI, seals for shift shafts can be purchased from colonial seal company.
Colonial Seal Company :: AS Style :: AS 15x23x7 NBR - OIL SEAL - This is the exact seal. 15x23x7 mm. They list minimum quantity of 50, but I was able to negotiate about $4 each for 10 of them.

IF YOU ARE GOING TO REMOVE THE ACTUATOR AND DON'T WANT TO DAMAGE THE SEAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK ON: This worked quite well for me:

1 - Coat each shaft in grease, near the sharp stepped part that damages the seal when you reinstall it. I used red wheel bearing grease.

2 - Take 2 6" pieces of black electrical tape. Wrap a piece around each shaft, with about 1/4 of the tape over the step (away from transfer case) and 3/4 of the tape on the transfer case side of the step. DO NOT overlap the tape more than about 1/8th the circumference of the shaft or it may not come off later. Take the tails of the tape and stick them to the side of the transfer case.

3 - Coat the actuator seals with grease. Carefully slide the actuator over the shafts. The electrical tape will allow the seals to go right over those sharp edges without cutting the seal or pushing the tension spring out of them.

The moment that the stepped edge is past the seal lips - STOP!

Now grab each piece of electrical tape, and pull on it steadily until it slips around the shaft (because of the grease you coated it in) and pulls out, leaving only grease behind.

It took me about 3 tries to figure this out but once I did, I was able to remove and install the actuator in about 2 minutes.



NOW: For installation: The cover plate for the 4lo motor really has to be in place. So, you really need to use a *small* 12V battery or 1A battery charger to run the motor in/out to suck the 4lo shaft in. I will have to detail this in a later post. The timing of the gears is critical or the transfer case will not fully engage one way or the other, but the switches will tell it that it is. I have no idea what this could cause, but I assume that it could cause damage eventually.



Does anyone have a used (maybe broken) actuator that they would like to get rid of? I would really just like to post the procedure in a video on youtube but I really don't want to pull mine off again since I don't have access to a hoist most of the time, and videotaping on my back is not what I really wanna do...

 

[geurillawarfare]

Oh - And FYI - The seals are actually made by Harwal and will ship from Harwal. Harwal will not sell directly to an individual which is why you must go through colonial seal.

 

[dustybaseball]

There are two motors, the diff lock one is right under the cover, and the 4lo one is underneath a cover plate that holds all the diff lock gears. You can't remove the plate without pulling the actuator away from the transmission and then you risk damaging the seals that are on the shafts.

FYI, the diff lock motor can be freed up by simply removing the little gear that touches the motor worm gear, then rotating the motor back and forth with a small screwdriver or hook and pick set until it starts to free. Then, disconnect the electrical connector, and use 12V/1A battery charger to run motor back and forth while spraying silicone lube into it.


FYI, seals for shift shafts can be purchased from colonial seal company.
Colonial Seal Company :: AS Style :: AS 15x23x7 NBR - OIL SEAL - This is the exact seal. 15x23x7 mm. They list minimum quantity of 50, but I was able to negotiate about $4 each for 10 of them.

IF YOU ARE GOING TO REMOVE THE ACTUATOR AND DON'T WANT TO DAMAGE THE SEAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK ON: This worked quite well for me:

1 - Coat each shaft in grease, near the sharp stepped part that damages the seal when you reinstall it. I used red wheel bearing grease.

2 - Take 2 6" pieces of black electrical tape. Wrap a piece around each shaft, with about 1/4 of the tape over the step (away from transfer case) and 3/4 of the tape on the transfer case side of the step. DO NOT overlap the tape more than about 1/8th the circumference of the shaft or it may not come off later. Take the tails of the tape and stick them to the side of the transfer case.

3 - Coat the actuator seals with grease. Carefully slide the actuator over the shafts. The electrical tape will allow the seals to go right over those sharp edges without cutting the seal or pushing the tension spring out of them.

The moment that the stepped edge is past the seal lips - STOP!

Now grab each piece of electrical tape, and pull on it steadily until it slips around the shaft (because of the grease you coated it in) and pulls out, leaving only grease behind.

It took me about 3 tries to figure this out but once I did, I was able to remove and install the actuator in about 2 minutes.



NOW: For installation: The cover plate for the 4lo motor really has to be in place. So, you really need to use a *small* 12V battery or 1A battery charger to run the motor in/out to suck the 4lo shaft in. I will have to detail this in a later post. The timing of the gears is critical or the transfer case will not fully engage one way or the other, but the switches will tell it that it is. I have no idea what this could cause, but I assume that it could cause damage eventually.



Does anyone have a used (maybe broken) actuator that they would like to get rid of? I would really just like to post the procedure in a video on youtube but I really don't want to pull mine off again since I don't have access to a hoist most of the time, and videotaping on my back is not what I really wanna do...

So I believe the timing on my actuator is off. I have taken my actuator off to free up the gear and in the process of installing, the timing mechanism moved. Do you or someone else have pictures or direction on how the timing is suppose to look or operate? I am really confused on this one and can't figure it out.

Thanks,
Dusty

 

[blackyota13]

Has anyone determined the timing on these gears yet?<--thats the main thing I need right now!
I have an 04 4runner that I just put a t-case in tonight and the 4wd light is blinking and front drive shaft isn't even turning. This new case has only 27k on it. I did get the shaft to engage when I started to pop actuator cover off, but now it will not again.
I am unsure now if I have a ECU issue or a timing-of-the-gears issue.

The orig case had no 4wd and both the 4wd and diff lock were blinking. I took actuator off from the outside(a big no-no, i know) and got the gears freed up. 4wd testing was erratic and not instantaneous, then eventually just 4wd light blinking. Trying to save buddy $ but ended up getting used case with actuator cause it was cheaper, but am now in same boat.

Any help is appreciated!

 

[Namrenok]

Anybody figure out the timing on the actuator. Got it freed up but not sure if it was in the right place when removed. I think it was stuck in between lo and hi.

 

[MandAtaco]

To you guys that have purchased and installed the Colonial seals, how are they holding up? I'm getting ready to order some of these and try to fix my 04 limited that's leaking. Thanks for the help!


Mike

 

[GLP]

MandAtaco,

How exactly are you going about replacing the seals? Are you doing the factory method where you remove and disassemble the transfer case first, then remove the actuator, or are you disassembling the actuator while its still on the transfer case and leave the transfer case in tact (the shorter but not recommended method)?

 

[MandAtaco]

I'm not sure yet. I've got to get into the service manuals and see how bad of a job it is to split the case. I'd like to do it from the outside but I'm worried about messing up that expensive shift motor. I found a Toyota service shop locally that said he would do it for $400 if I could get the seal (which I have through this thread), so I may even go that way so I don't have to screw with it. I just hate paying people to work on my stuff.

Still looking to see if anyone has had issues with the new seal?

 

[Az4runnin]

The way it was explained to me is that the Actuator itself is what Cracks in many cases causing the leaks. The dealer will replace it with an updated Actuator that addresses the issues of it cracking. If you mess with the timing of the Shift Rods in the Actuator you are asking for trouble. Do it right the 1st time. Drop the T-case and split it open. I think that a few that have tried it differently have ended up having issues. Shop around for a New Actuator. Find a Good Shop that can guarantee they can do the job RIGHT. Don't pay the dealer to install it. Way to much $$$$ there. I am going through this now. My buddy is a Toyota Tech. We are dropping the T-case at his house, then he is taking it to work to split it open and replace the Actuator. Yes the actuator is $$$ but I am keeping this Rig for another 120k and plan to use it.

 

[M1911]

The way it was explained to me is that the Actuator itself is what Cracks in many cases causing the leaks. The dealer will replace it with an updated Actuator that addresses the issues of it cracking. If you mess with the timing of the Shift Rods in the Actuator you are asking for trouble. Do it right the 1st time. Drop the T-case and split it open. I think that a few that have tried it differently have ended up having issues. Shop around for a New Actuator. Find a Good Shop that can guarantee they can do the job RIGHT. Don't pay the dealer to install it. Way to much $$$$ there. I am going through this now. My buddy is a Toyota Tech. We are dropping the T-case at his house, then he is taking it to work to split it open and replace the Actuator. Yes the actuator is $$$ but I am keeping this Rig for another 120k and plan to use it.

That's not my understanding. My understanding is that the problem is a $5 o-ring.

 

[scw1991]

It is my understanding that there is certain sequence to engaging the 4WD system. First, the front differential actuator shift fork must complete it's cycle. Once complete, the transfer case actuator shift fork completes it's cycle thus engaging 4HI.

 

[Az4runnin]

That's not my understanding. My understanding is that the problem is a $5 o-ring.

It's my Understanding if You choose to do This Job Half Assed and and Not Split the Case Open and F with the Actuator You end Up getting Screwed. Good luck doing just the Seals and F'ing up the Timing on the Gears. Have Fun with That.

 

[hkollie1]

Well at 190,000 miles I developed a massive leak! Had nursed a drip for several years... White Sheppard etc....

Didn't have time to mess with it so I took it to the dealer, they split three case and changed all t case seals and the o ring for $600!

Not bad I expected $1000....

Hi low works smooth as butter!

Good luck leakers!

 

[kh91466]

Transfer case drip

I too had a transfer case drip on my 2003 4runner v8... Took it to my Toyota dealer and they split the case to remove the Transfer Drive Actuator. Both seals and o ring were bad. Toyota would not replace the seals, so I had to buy a new actuator [ OUCH ] . My Actuator was in good working order and no gear oil had migrated inside the Actuator even though the seals were bad. So I have a perfectly good Actuator I would be willing to sell to anyone who has a damaged one. Dealer price is $1300, online price is $850, Price for my used one $300.

 

[Waterdog3]

Mine leaks, has for a while now. I check it every few months. Never seems to take more than a few pumps to top it off. Looking at fixing this it seems that getting a lower mileage 2005 or newer TC from a salvage yard and having it installed might be the best way to go? Used TC's look to run around $400 to $600 depending on age and mileage.

 

[GLP]

If you decide to fix it instead here is a write-up. The o-ring that is leaking is only $8. If your TC and actuator are working fine I suggest replacing the o-ring.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/182074-fixing-transfer-case-shift-motor-leak-within.html