I meant to do this a few months ago when I first replaced the manifold, but I've been very busy.
I have a 2008 Limited 4wd that's been in New England its whole life (ie rust belt vehicle). 135k miles
I replaced the passenger's side exhaust manifold due to obvious ticking coming from it. I had the tick for a couple years, and it was getting bad enough that it was embarrassing when in a parking garage or narrow city street.
Interestingly enough, I could find no cracks in the old manifold, even around the flanges, but the manifold gasket was toast. It was rusted away around cylinders 2 and 4. Lots of carbon and oxidization on the mating surface.
A few things I encountered while doing the R&R that may (or may not) help others.
-I accessed every nut/bolt through the wheel well or from underneath and did not have to raise the engine. I do have a lift in my garage though, so this made it much easier than if it was on jack stands. At times I had to worm myself in the wheel well (take the wheel off).
-I unbolted the brake line bracket and GENTLY moved it outward so I had a bit more room to get my hands in there. Be very careful because it will be easy to crimp the brake line if you move it too much or push against it.
-Heat is your friend. I used an oxy/acetylene torch to heat the nuts cherry red before trying to remove them. Likewise I heated the studs that stayed in the head cherry red before removing them. I did not heat the aluminum head. I did not have any issues removing either the studs or nuts.
-I only used air tools on one nut. The rest I used various length extensions, universals, and flex ratchets. Some of them were easier with a 1/4" ratchet, others I was able to get onto with a 3/8". I used impact universals regardless of whether I was using the impact wrench.
-The AIR tube is a tight fit. I used a scraper to carefully pry it away from the manifold. I didn't try to separate the tube/manifold until I had all the nuts off. That gave me some wiggle room.
-The heat shield was the biggest pita of the whole job. To put the new one in, I disconnected the alternator connections and harness, moved them out of the way, and slid the heat shield in from the front. It took some coaxing, but I did not distort it.
-The top, forward heat shield bolt will be your nemesis. It took me over 45 minutes to finally get it started. Once started, it was easy with a 1/4" flex ratchet, but the shock/spring tower restricts access and sight, so starting it sucks. This was the only part of the job that made me swear out loud.
-I replaced the air/fuel sensor while I was doing this. It is a whole lot easier to put it into a removed manifold than replace it when it's installed, crammed up against the firewall.
-To remove the studs, I used an extractor like These. The manifold nuts are 14mm. Mid-length (or semi-deep) sockets work awesome. It's worth it to buy one in 14mm if you are doing this job. In addition, if you do not have flex head ratchets, it is worth it to get them for this job.
Parts I used for an OEM manifold install with prices I paid back in October (2020). All are Toyota parts except the sensor and the two nuts used at the exhaust pipe connection. I purchased the Toyota parts through online dealers since my local dealer wanted more than msrp
Manifold-$480.20 - 17140-50060
Gasket-$52.07 - 17173-50030
Heat shield-$79.17 - 17167-50180
Manifold studs (8)-$28.48 - 90080-12008
Manifold nuts (8)-$12.64 - 90080-17187
Air tube gasket-$1.30 - 17576-50010
Air tube nuts (2)-$1.58 - 90178-A0023
Heat shield bolts (4)-$3.20 - 90080-11589
Exhaust Pipe gasket - $10.09 - 90080-43036
A/F sensor B2S1-$120.78 @ Amazon - Denso 234-9051
Two M10x1.25 flanged exhaust nuts at NAPA. I don't remember the price but they were a few bucks for two.
***Edited to add****
It took me about 9 hours total. Book time is 7.4 hours, so it's a good thing I wasn't doing it for pay.
I have a 2008 Limited 4wd that's been in New England its whole life (ie rust belt vehicle). 135k miles
I replaced the passenger's side exhaust manifold due to obvious ticking coming from it. I had the tick for a couple years, and it was getting bad enough that it was embarrassing when in a parking garage or narrow city street.
Interestingly enough, I could find no cracks in the old manifold, even around the flanges, but the manifold gasket was toast. It was rusted away around cylinders 2 and 4. Lots of carbon and oxidization on the mating surface.
A few things I encountered while doing the R&R that may (or may not) help others.
-I accessed every nut/bolt through the wheel well or from underneath and did not have to raise the engine. I do have a lift in my garage though, so this made it much easier than if it was on jack stands. At times I had to worm myself in the wheel well (take the wheel off).
-I unbolted the brake line bracket and GENTLY moved it outward so I had a bit more room to get my hands in there. Be very careful because it will be easy to crimp the brake line if you move it too much or push against it.
-Heat is your friend. I used an oxy/acetylene torch to heat the nuts cherry red before trying to remove them. Likewise I heated the studs that stayed in the head cherry red before removing them. I did not heat the aluminum head. I did not have any issues removing either the studs or nuts.
-I only used air tools on one nut. The rest I used various length extensions, universals, and flex ratchets. Some of them were easier with a 1/4" ratchet, others I was able to get onto with a 3/8". I used impact universals regardless of whether I was using the impact wrench.
-The AIR tube is a tight fit. I used a scraper to carefully pry it away from the manifold. I didn't try to separate the tube/manifold until I had all the nuts off. That gave me some wiggle room.
-The heat shield was the biggest pita of the whole job. To put the new one in, I disconnected the alternator connections and harness, moved them out of the way, and slid the heat shield in from the front. It took some coaxing, but I did not distort it.
-The top, forward heat shield bolt will be your nemesis. It took me over 45 minutes to finally get it started. Once started, it was easy with a 1/4" flex ratchet, but the shock/spring tower restricts access and sight, so starting it sucks. This was the only part of the job that made me swear out loud.
-I replaced the air/fuel sensor while I was doing this. It is a whole lot easier to put it into a removed manifold than replace it when it's installed, crammed up against the firewall.
-To remove the studs, I used an extractor like These. The manifold nuts are 14mm. Mid-length (or semi-deep) sockets work awesome. It's worth it to buy one in 14mm if you are doing this job. In addition, if you do not have flex head ratchets, it is worth it to get them for this job.
Parts I used for an OEM manifold install with prices I paid back in October (2020). All are Toyota parts except the sensor and the two nuts used at the exhaust pipe connection. I purchased the Toyota parts through online dealers since my local dealer wanted more than msrp
Manifold-$480.20 - 17140-50060
Gasket-$52.07 - 17173-50030
Heat shield-$79.17 - 17167-50180
Manifold studs (8)-$28.48 - 90080-12008
Manifold nuts (8)-$12.64 - 90080-17187
Air tube gasket-$1.30 - 17576-50010
Air tube nuts (2)-$1.58 - 90178-A0023
Heat shield bolts (4)-$3.20 - 90080-11589
Exhaust Pipe gasket - $10.09 - 90080-43036
A/F sensor B2S1-$120.78 @ Amazon - Denso 234-9051
Two M10x1.25 flanged exhaust nuts at NAPA. I don't remember the price but they were a few bucks for two.
***Edited to add****
It took me about 9 hours total. Book time is 7.4 hours, so it's a good thing I wasn't doing it for pay.
Last edited:
