2010 T4R front wheel bearing failures
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mace.
New member
From my observations over the past few years wheel bearing failures are no where near as common as failure to search.
On a good note, you're the lucky winner of three links:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/149801-alternate-search-toyota-4runner-5th-gen-section.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/141171-front-left-wheel-bearing-toast-63-000mi.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/171057-wheel-bearings-go-bad.html
Welcome to the forums !!
Note: I did not stay at a Holiday Inn last night.
On a good note, you're the lucky winner of three links:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/149801-alternate-search-toyota-4runner-5th-gen-section.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/141171-front-left-wheel-bearing-toast-63-000mi.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/171057-wheel-bearings-go-bad.html
Welcome to the forums !!
Note: I did not stay at a Holiday Inn last night.
Engineer
New member
" Sub standard beatings "..... :rofl:
Bearing failures don't seem to be a common problem with the 4runners. May very well ahve been a bad couple, or poor lubication from factory, etc etc.
The 1 car I had a wheel bearing go bad I changed both sides, similiar part,simlilar operation conditions over life. Unless there is a smoking gun as to why it failed I would assume sister component is not far tbehind.
Hope these last you 100k + miles
Thanks -- I'm sure they deserved a standard beating or even an exceptional one for installing defective bearings, if that's the case.
Intruder
New member
There are lots of different reasons for wheel bearing failure. A lot of people with SUVs like to drive through big puddles, drive over potholes instead of around them, not slow down for speed bumps, or misjudge their width and hit curbs. In my case (just replaced driver's side for the second time yesterday) it's a combination of many things.
Antman
Elite Member
How are you determining the bearing is bad? Reason I ask; I have developed a drivetrain harmonic (completely vehicle speed dependent) that starts at 40 mph. Hummmm Hummmm Hummmmm- like that, lol.
I'm not sure if it's the Duratracs getting louder with age or possible wheel bearing(s). I haven't had time to jack up the truck to investigate yet...
Just curious how you know it's the bearing since you've done it twice.
THANKS!
philsey
New member
Antman
Elite Member
NuclearN8
New member
wheels bearings go bad on every vehicle, eventually...
easiest way is to jack up the suspect wheel and spin it by hand at various speeds, if it sounds or feels abnormal, chances are you bearings are on the frits or about to be... This is not a technical diagnosis method, but it's never failed me with past vehicles.
Generally speaking every single vehicle that I've replaced wheel bearings on has hummed at me first, come to think of it... that's no way to treat a lady
easiest way is to jack up the suspect wheel and spin it by hand at various speeds, if it sounds or feels abnormal, chances are you bearings are on the frits or about to be... This is not a technical diagnosis method, but it's never failed me with past vehicles.
Generally speaking every single vehicle that I've replaced wheel bearings on has hummed at me first, come to think of it... that's no way to treat a lady
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Intruder
New member
On the driver's side one I could hear a slight hum and feel just a little vibration under my left foot when I rest it on the dead pedal when I hit around 70 or 80 km/h. We put it on the lift and there was a slight wiggle even though the tie rod was tight. [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] what you describe does sound familiar. Sorry...
sandcrawler
Senior Member
how many miles on the Duratracs? i was convinced i had a driveline vibration at ~40k... nope, it was the Duratracs. rotating them mitigated the issue. replacing them eliminated it completely.
Intruder
New member
Forgot to mention with mine you could definitely tell the hum and vibration (have fun with that one [MENTION=51186]philsey[/MENTION]!) were coming specifically from the front and specific side. It wasn't an all around sort of noise.
harper7
Senior Member
I just had my drivers side front wheel bearing replaced under extended warranty to go along with a transfer case seal kit at 77k miles.
I have severe dealerphobia and I finally got up the nerve to take it in with about 3 hours to spare on thee very last day of my 5 year warranty. I knew the wheel bearing was going for the last 5k or so miles and had transfer case front seal leak/seep. The front transfer case seal had been seeping for a couple of years but not enough to even drip on my garage floor so I was thinking they would say it was within leak limits.
I talked to the mechanic after his analysis that the transfer case leak was coming from the shifter actuator to tell him it's just the front seal and oil was being slung up there from the driveshaft. He rambled on about some shift actuator TSB seal kit that replaces them all anyways so he would just pull it and replace them all to make sure. Fine with me as I wasn't paying and it's not leaking now.
Also ,tried to talk him into to both front bearings to no avail as he said he ckecked the pass side and rears and they were fine.
Here are the parts used and what it would have cost without the extended warranty. You can see most of it is labor charges and I ended up just paying my $50 deductible . Back to running smooth and quiet!:dance:
Running big heavy aggressive wheels and lifted will shorten a wheel bearings life.
I have severe dealerphobia and I finally got up the nerve to take it in with about 3 hours to spare on thee very last day of my 5 year warranty. I knew the wheel bearing was going for the last 5k or so miles and had transfer case front seal leak/seep. The front transfer case seal had been seeping for a couple of years but not enough to even drip on my garage floor so I was thinking they would say it was within leak limits.
I talked to the mechanic after his analysis that the transfer case leak was coming from the shifter actuator to tell him it's just the front seal and oil was being slung up there from the driveshaft. He rambled on about some shift actuator TSB seal kit that replaces them all anyways so he would just pull it and replace them all to make sure. Fine with me as I wasn't paying and it's not leaking now.
Also ,tried to talk him into to both front bearings to no avail as he said he ckecked the pass side and rears and they were fine.
Here are the parts used and what it would have cost without the extended warranty. You can see most of it is labor charges and I ended up just paying my $50 deductible . Back to running smooth and quiet!:dance:
Running big heavy aggressive wheels and lifted will shorten a wheel bearings life.
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KVA
Member
Since I have a 2010 Limited as well, thought I would chime in that my transfer case seal is dead and needs to be replaced at 87K miles.
Going to have them fix it next week since I am getting close to the magic 100K platinum warranty number.
The parts are relatively cheap but labor is $$$. No deductible so I am fine with them doing the work.
Asking them to check the wheel bearings too while they are at it :eyebrows:
Need to remind them to use the correct transfer case oil: 08885-81080 as that stuff is expensive!
Going to have them fix it next week since I am getting close to the magic 100K platinum warranty number.
The parts are relatively cheap but labor is $$$. No deductible so I am fine with them doing the work.
Asking them to check the wheel bearings too while they are at it :eyebrows:
Need to remind them to use the correct transfer case oil: 08885-81080 as that stuff is expensive!
