2011 SR5 4 wheel not engaging
- Thread starter Hambone
- Start date
wfo9
New member
No reason to apologize... your way ahead of the game compared to most... I only brought up taking it to the dealer.. because there are many situations these days that just can't be resolved without all the proprietary diagnostic tools and guides + hands on access to the vehicle.
Sounds like you may have found the issue. If I read everything correctly... the switch seems to be bad. I would tipple check it before diving in...(compare with the other two....)
Like I said before, the repair manual (which is available for download here http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/65237-tis-fsm-2010-4runner-here-2.html#post565247) says to remove the transmission and Tcase as a first step to replace it, but that may not be required. There is often a better way.... I would go look at mine, but I have skids in the way that would be a pain to remove...
Keep us posted.
Last edited:
flyinhawaiian01
New member
I know this isn't really related to the OP's issue, but if you have the screen up of the wiring diagram, and you're on a windows-based pc, you can hold ALT and press PRINTSCREEN to get a screen cap. open whatever photo program you have (MS paint would even work here, or photoshop or ) and CTRL + V to paste the screen shot.
You can then save it as a jpeg and post it up!
wfo9
New member
There is actually an easier way on recent versions. From vista on up there is a tool included called the snipping tool. It lets you capture screen, free form, rectangle... highlight draw... and save as jpg..... super easy and convenient.
BlackWorksInc
New member
If you can't get the switch out on the car, the transfer case can be dropped without removing the transmission. There's seals between the two so no fluid should leak out. 
I don't know if we can be sure it's the switch. It sounds like the OP is basing the diagnosis on the fact that the front driveshaft locks, but the switch still reads open. But is it possible that it could be partially engaged, enough to lock the front shaft but not enough to trigger the switch?
This thread is a great resource. Over in the 4th gen section people typically bang on the t-case actuator with a hammer and/or loosen some bolts to try to get it to work. But those usually fail due to water getting in or old age. The ADD rarely seems to be a problem, or maybe everyone just ignores it.
wfo9
New member
I doubt what you described is possible. There is no actuator. The 2010-2012 sr5 trucks have a manual shifter moving the shift forks mechanically (same as all the trail editions 2010-2016). Only the 2013-2016 sr5s have an 4wd actuator motor. All the part time 4wd models have the same ADD actuator. It does fail, seen it happen to an FJ.
Also, that is why I thought it would be a good idea to test the other switches.... N and Lo. It would also be possible to rig up a manual switch or just close the circuit manually for testing 4wd function. These transfer cases are really simple and there is not much that can go wrong that is not mechanical. On 2012 and earlier, the switches are the only electronics in them.
Last edited:
wfo9
New member
If you can't get the switch out on the car, the transfer case can be dropped without removing the transmission. There's seals between the two so no fluid should leak out.
That would be much easier and could be done pretty easy on jack stands. I've never really looked at what it would take, but there seems to be a decent amount of room to work in. But sometimes there is that one bolt.....
I hate when repair manuals give a labor intensive solution when there is another way...They are rarely ever efficiently written.
BlackWorksInc
New member
The banging on the transfercase solution has to do with the fact that the actuators on our 4th gens tend to get sticky/seize up from lack of use and/or other conditions (such as water intrusion). Most of the time tapping on the case while shifting will break loose the crud on the shafts and let it move in and out. The ADD doesn't go bad too often on the V6's from what I have seen.
In this particular case, since the OP has a VF2A Transfer Case unlike the VF4AM & VF4BM units found in the 4th gens, it's manually actuated with a physical shift lever. Yet, while the transfer case is manually actuated, they still use an ADD to actually engage the front axle.
Fixed!!!
Alright gentlemen, I believe we have solved the issue! After an evening reassembling the ADD and installing it I sought a way to remove the switch without dropping the tranny and tcase. A replacement transfer case indicator switch was on order from my local Toyota dealer, to the tune of $84.00.
Today I searched my small town for a 27mm crows foot wrench to remove the switch, there is almost no room between the top of the Tcase and the tunnel walls. To no avail, not a single store carries crows foot wrenches bigger than 20mm. I was able to borrow one from a local mechanic!! This was awesome, he let me borrow the tool, gave me some tips, and wouldn't take any money. I offered my phone number and drivers license as collateral and went back to my garage.
I was able to crack the switch loose with a 1 1/16" crows foot 1/2" drive attached to a 1/2" drive ratchet. Once cracked loose, it was finger tight. The replacement was installed, tighten with a 1/4 turn on the crows foot. I returned the tools along with a case of Miller Light ( I had seen one sitting on his work bench) and he was very grateful.
I tested the system on the way to his shop, 4-hi activated in drive at 20-30mph. The dash light blinked once and locked on. I then tested 4-lo and was not able to achieve activation with the transmission in N and the brake applied.
An hour later I drove the runner 10-15 miles and tried activating 4-lo again in my driveway. It was a bit slow and I had to roll backwards a few feet in neutral before it activated, but so far all seems to be operating as designed!! :eyebrows:
All that said, you all were a big help and thanks for not flaming me out of here. :flame:
If I have not addressed something you have questions about, feel free to ask.
I was also able to install cat-back Borla exhaust and a TRD cold air intake over the last two days. A Toytech 3" lift is on the way, should arrive Monday! :laser:
Top picture is the switch I replaced, passenger side. Tight as hell to get to, but not impossible. I don't have the smallest hands and was able to make it work. The second picture is the drivers side of the t-case, the N and 4-lo switches are located there.
Alright gentlemen, I believe we have solved the issue! After an evening reassembling the ADD and installing it I sought a way to remove the switch without dropping the tranny and tcase. A replacement transfer case indicator switch was on order from my local Toyota dealer, to the tune of $84.00.
Today I searched my small town for a 27mm crows foot wrench to remove the switch, there is almost no room between the top of the Tcase and the tunnel walls. To no avail, not a single store carries crows foot wrenches bigger than 20mm. I was able to borrow one from a local mechanic!! This was awesome, he let me borrow the tool, gave me some tips, and wouldn't take any money. I offered my phone number and drivers license as collateral and went back to my garage.
I was able to crack the switch loose with a 1 1/16" crows foot 1/2" drive attached to a 1/2" drive ratchet. Once cracked loose, it was finger tight. The replacement was installed, tighten with a 1/4 turn on the crows foot. I returned the tools along with a case of Miller Light ( I had seen one sitting on his work bench) and he was very grateful.
I tested the system on the way to his shop, 4-hi activated in drive at 20-30mph. The dash light blinked once and locked on. I then tested 4-lo and was not able to achieve activation with the transmission in N and the brake applied.
An hour later I drove the runner 10-15 miles and tried activating 4-lo again in my driveway. It was a bit slow and I had to roll backwards a few feet in neutral before it activated, but so far all seems to be operating as designed!! :eyebrows:
All that said, you all were a big help and thanks for not flaming me out of here. :flame:
If I have not addressed something you have questions about, feel free to ask.
I was also able to install cat-back Borla exhaust and a TRD cold air intake over the last two days. A Toytech 3" lift is on the way, should arrive Monday! :laser:
Top picture is the switch I replaced, passenger side. Tight as hell to get to, but not impossible. I don't have the smallest hands and was able to make it work. The second picture is the drivers side of the t-case, the N and 4-lo switches are located there.
Attachments
Last edited:
wfo9
New member
That is awesome.. Great that you were able to swap it on the truck. And really glad my initial guess was correct. :clap2:
Did you happen to take a picture of the crows foot wrench you used? Might help someone out.... I hardly ever use those things... although I have seen them be useful in oddball situations.
Did you happen to take a picture of the crows foot wrench you used? Might help someone out.... I hardly ever use those things... although I have seen them be useful in oddball situations.
Last edited:
BlackWorksInc
New member
[MENTION=61541]Hambone[/MENTION]
Congrats! Glad everything worked out for you, always feels great to get something fixed and working right.
Congrats! Glad everything worked out for you, always feels great to get something fixed and working right.
That is so true, great analogy.
Sorry for the late replay, this is similar to what I used in removing the switch on the transfer case.
*update*-
The truck is running great and 4wd system is working flawlessly. After the repair I installed a Toytech Ultimate 3" lift, Borla Cat back, TRD intake, and a Baja lights 10" light bar under the grill. It is all coming together nicely.
*update*-
The truck is running great and 4wd system is working flawlessly. After the repair I installed a Toytech Ultimate 3" lift, Borla Cat back, TRD intake, and a Baja lights 10" light bar under the grill. It is all coming together nicely.
Attachments
rocklighting
New member
I am having a similar issue with my '11 TE...I try to engage 4H every so often as instructed. The last couple of times the light did not turn on (no flashing, no solid, just no light), but when i tried again it would flash and lock on. I put it on the back burner of things to deal with. Got our first snow a few weeks back and the light would refuse to come on at all. Tried 4L and the same situation.
I switched out the transfer case 4H switch (it was a huge pain, but thanks to OP, I had a sense of what was going on) and now my 4H is working again. My 4L light isn't coming on either so I know it is either that switch or the N one and will eventually need to be switched out.
Anyone else have this issue, both 4H & 4L light not turning on/switches fail?
I switched out the transfer case 4H switch (it was a huge pain, but thanks to OP, I had a sense of what was going on) and now my 4H is working again. My 4L light isn't coming on either so I know it is either that switch or the N one and will eventually need to be switched out.
Anyone else have this issue, both 4H & 4L light not turning on/switches fail?
Last edited:
Similar threads
