camerontopa
New member
Check AOB's eBay page. I just got one
2014-2016 behind grill light bar mounts.
- Thread starter BradBrad619
- Start date
Did my wiring earlier this evening. Not going to do a wiring writeup, cause it depends if you use a relay or not. I'm gonna run three lights, 2 with relays 1 without. The one without will be my reverse lights that I also use for camping/dishing lights, so I want to be able to turn it one without the ignition.
If are running a relay, I used a (add a fuse / add a circuit) into the mini-fuse box location under the drivers side kick oanel. Just have to find an empty spot that gets power through the ignition.
If are running a relay, I used a (add a fuse / add a circuit) into the mini-fuse box location under the drivers side kick oanel. Just have to find an empty spot that gets power through the ignition.
rallybabyracing
New member
Mine are currently at the powder coater. Hopefully picking them up today. Will post pictures when I have them in hand.
Saker
Senior Member
You may want to re-think your process of "not using a relay"..... unless you have a really heavy duty switch that will handle the amperage draw through that switch to the backup lights you mentioned.
spawn
New member
Recieved your PM @Brad, but still undecided. Thanks.
You got the one that says "LED Light Bar"?
Saker
Senior Member
I looked right after he posted. He must have purchased the last one. None could be found with "LED LIGHT BAR" on it. :/
camerontopa
New member
Interesting thoughts... My 22" Heretic bar came with a relay and that's fine because I'm running that light with a relay.
The roof/ditch lights and the reverse are Rigid SRQs. The harness that originally came with the SRQs didn't have a relay with the lights and only has a switch. I need to check the amp rating on that small button switch, but I'm guessing it can't be much more than the 3A rating of the AOB switches...
Thanks for bringing that up.. Will definitely need to look into that before I run a relay.
tral
New member
Sure you got a 2010+ switch? They DO have 2003- 2009 available.... just looking out....
camerontopa
New member
Yeah, I'm positive. Thanks though
CF_Machete
Senior Member
If you don't mind me asking, How much did that set you back?
rallybabyracing
New member
They charged me $25 which is there minimum price.
Last edited:
THANKS!!!... will be the first to admit I don't know many things... I ran lights through a without a relay, but the Carling switch is a higher amp rating than the 3a on the AOB switches.. I actually called Rigid, and the little switch they include in the non-relay harnesses (found on the SRQs) are actually 15a switches.
The Heretic studio light is already relayed, I'll pick up a relay for the SRQ ditch, and the rigid SRQ backup already has an included relay.. Guess I'll just do another "add a fuse" and run it to a constant hot location... THANKS!!!
Saker
Senior Member
Glad you called them.
I was kinda making a blanket statement because, I hate to see someone burn their switch up, or worse because they can't handle the amps!
I always try to relay stuff like that so there is a minimum draw thru the switch.
Glad you researched it, now you are positive what it can handle. :thumb3:
BradBrad619
New member
Shipping out a huge batch of mounts tonight, all remaining orders that are paid will be shipped tonight.
PM if you have any questions.
Brad
PM if you have any questions.
Brad
camerontopa
New member
Got mine installed this weekend. Didn't take pictures because well, I forgot and was drinking beer instead. Pretty easy install though. It took about an hour. Just make sure your marks for your holes are exact. I had to bore out of the holes on the mount because I messed up but it all worked out.
Also, the steel support for the bottom of the grille, make sure you re-attach that before bolting in the mount and light bar. Believe me, it makes it very difficult doing this backwards.
The only gripe I have is that the bar pushes on the inside of the grille. Which isn't a huge deal I suppose. It just makes adjusting more difficult as it always wants to sit flush with the grille.
I might do something like what Saker did with his grille and cut it out and have a trim piece made so it doesn't just look like an open hole. All in all, very good mounts.
Also, the steel support for the bottom of the grille, make sure you re-attach that before bolting in the mount and light bar. Believe me, it makes it very difficult doing this backwards.
The only gripe I have is that the bar pushes on the inside of the grille. Which isn't a huge deal I suppose. It just makes adjusting more difficult as it always wants to sit flush with the grille.
I might do something like what Saker did with his grille and cut it out and have a trim piece made so it doesn't just look like an open hole. All in all, very good mounts.
how did you do yours? did you tap the bar and screw into that? or use a nut?
Similar threads
