2015 Dual Battery Installation

[SenseiDad]

2nd Battery and drawer system, finally installed

Thanks for everyone's posts. I looked at dual battery and drawer setups and did a mix and match. I used a Blue Sea ML ACR and a CTEK 250s Dual to isolate and charge the AGM battery. The drawers were all cut to fit.

This took a couple of weekends worth of work with a lot trial and error - a lot of errors. Still have some clean to do with the wires and will eventually add solar.

Any recommendations for a dual battery monitor?

Glad to answer any questions and glad to hear any suggestions for improvements.

 

[Xtremluck]

Here are some pics of My dual battery install.
The marine Battery was used because it has the extra terminal on top which will be used for the bussman fuse and relay panel. I used #1awg marine cable due to its flexibility and amp capacity. The added support bar on the fire wall is to keep from attaching to the OEM loom. Both batteries have a negative to ground at there location. I also ran #1 awg cable from both batteries to a negative bus bar which is also grounded to the frame. The bus bar also provides grounding for the ACR. I did not drill any holes to do this install, there are plenty of existing threaded holes in the body for mounting. I installed a terminal strip next to the ACR for testing the three position switch. I have not found a good location on the dash board for this switch yet. That is the next project when I install the light bar.
This was not the cheapest way to go but when I shut the hood I feel confident that the truck won't self destruct. Thanks to everyone who posted there dual battery mods. All the information was most helpful.

Couple of questions. Are you running a Optima Bluetop D27M by chance? Also your Bluesea mounts are they made of 1/4" ABS plastic? Was thinking of doing something similar.

 

[Rack]

Couple of questions. Are you running a Optima Bluetop D27M by chance? Also your Bluesea mounts are they made of 1/4" ABS plastic? Was thinking of doing something similar.

No, The Optima is a D34M Marine deep cycle.
the plastic is Acetal sheet - Delrin. A thermo plastic from "TAP plastics"
This is heat resistant, Also the Acetal is very hard. I drilled and taped the hole with #10 SS screws to mount the ACR. The strange cut outs in the Plastic are there to avoid some existing cable and wire loom that is OEM. I also had to make the spacer to hold the ACR out further from the fender. Check out more pics in my album page. Note: my 4R is a 2011 later models got a little more crowded under the hood so my build my not apply to you if its a newer model.

 

[Bumbo]

Thanks for everyone's posts. I looked at dual battery and drawer setups and did a mix and match. I used a Blue Sea ML ACR and a CTEK 250s Dual to isolate and charge the AGM battery. The drawers were all cut to fit.

This took a couple of weekends worth of work with a lot trial and error - a lot of errors. Still have some clean to do with the wires and will eventually add solar.

Any recommendations for a dual battery monitor?

Not sure if you are looking for a basic voltage readout or LED "gas gauge" that generally works off voltage like the National Luna one... but have you ever heard of a State of Charge battery monitor?

Its something goes beyond just voltage... that looks at both consumption and charge input to give you a true state of charge in amp hours and % of battery remaining based on live consumption.

https://www.victronenergy.com/battery-monitors/bmv-712-smart

They are a bit pricey, but very very nice. I use them on my higher end electrical and solar projects.

I know you mentioned solar, and as much as I love Genasun MPPT controllers, the new Victron controls are awesome as they give you a lot of data about the system.

I started a thread here about the Victron solar charge controller... still need to find time to get the project going...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/250338-solar-upgrade-2nd-battery.html

 

[Zapper]

Very close to getting this all figured out, I think. With the Blue Sea ML-ACR, where does the voltage display get connected to. Right off each battery? Then run a line to the digital display? (Drok mini .28" Digital Voltmeters)

Keith-DX, or anyone else, is this setup the most cost effective route?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Bumbo]

Very close to getting this all figured out, I think. With the Blue Sea ML-ACR, where does the voltage display get connected to. Right off each battery? Then run a line to the digital display? (Drok mini .28" Digital Voltmeters)

Keith-DX, or anyone else, is this setup the most cost effective route?

Thank you in advance.

You can connect it right off the battery, or any place that is connected to that battery for both bank A and B.

Further away you place it from the battery the more line loss, resistance, and the load will effect the reading. If you put it right next to the battery vs right next to an air pump that was on you will most likely see two very different voltages due to voltage drop so keep that in mind. Since you can calibrate it, you can tune some of that out.

Those Drok meters are really marked up on Amazon... it's no different that the ones from ebay... $1-2 each shipped...

I've bought at least 20 of those over the past few years... I use them for fun project like these extensions that have built in volt meters. Just convenience, not about accuracy, but I can see that the charger is working its way up without having to bust out a bigger multimeter.

I think it's worth mentioning they only display to a 1/10th of a volt, 0.x, and they are not that accurate. They are also a bit of a PITA to calibrate if you dont own a really nice meter to use as a reference. Temperature also seems to influence the calibration, and the unit as a whole isn't that durable so be sure to build it into something.

Depending on where you are tapping, or what you want it for, you could even use something like this...

It displays, voltage, amperage, total watts, and rotates one of the segments to show volt minimum, watt peak, and amp hours consumed. Only cost about $16 which is a deal in comparison to what ur paying for the Drok stuff. You can still use it as a regular ole volt meter, just connect one end and don't pass the load though the device.

Has more resolution too... hundredths of a volt (0.xx) Its also pretty accurate... within 3 hundredths away from what my Fluke meter reads. I have another that is dead on with my Fluke.

Edit:
I just saw this poking around Amazon... seems like a better solution than the stand alone module.
https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Di...517953515&sr=8-24&keywords=volt+meter+display

 

[stephan07]

LOOKS FANTASTIC!! Ive been looking at dual batteries, and it lead me to a bunch of Aussie sites that use portable packs. Some of them also use these as back up solar generators as well. I'm thinking of running the wires to the cargo area as well. Then either a portable pack in a Pelican or perm a lithium 100aH battery. Love the Redarc BCDC, and connect to a 200W solar panel as well.

This just give me more ideas, and I've a lot to learn. Love that set up though!

 

[Nafod]

How did you get the tray off of the wheel well??