2015 led turn signal flasher?

Any solid info on whether the resistor is needed? I have seen people say you need to and some say you need not. I just bought the bulbs and figured they would be plug and play..


Also is it imperative to remove the liner?
 
Having done LED on both my 5th gens I can tell you with certainty there is not flasher you can swap..

You simply splice a single resistor between neg and pos on each side and it works like oem.
I have the 3 wire setup on my 2014 t4r and i've spliced the load resistor into the White/black line wire (ground), and the Yellow wire (Signal Power). It stops my hyperflashing in the daytime when all that's running are my DRL's (half power high beams) but at night when all my lights are on, including the signal lights as marker lights, when i use my turn signal, the hyperflashing comes back. Do I have to take the green wire (constant power) and splice it together with the yellow and the load resistor all in one splice?
 
I just let my lights hyper-flash. I kind of like it because it will usually flash normally a few times then go hyper. It's almost like if I don't complete the turn quick enough my truck gets impatient and starts quickly tapping it's foot.

Someone mentioned to me that it could cause something to burn out but I've been hyper flashing for years and it hasn't impacted anything yet.
 
*FIX* for turn signal hyperflashing on 4runner's with dual-filament (7444na) bulbs

I have a 2014 T4R Limited with dual filament (7444na) front turn signal bulbs. I switched all the lights over to LED and was having issues with the front turn signals hyper-flashing. After reading all the posts i could find and trying every configuration listed with no success, I eventually stumbled onto a fix by just messing around and blowing a fuse or two by myself. I would like to pass on this information and show pictures of my setup which is now working flawlessly.

Turns out, I had to wire two resistors together, and then run it in parallel between the Ground (white/black) and the Flasher wire (Yellow).
0yVT3yu.jpg


A little closer view
Z1uBBN1.jpg


I didn't want to drill into my T4R so I cut a piece of aluminum to mount the resistors on. Also added a whole to add a punch clip to.
FOgTXM4.jpg


This is my final setup within the wheel well. Resistors are rivet-mounted to the piece of aluminum and the punch clip mounts it to an empty hole on the frame. doesn't matter how hot these things get, they are in no danger of touching anything else. (They don't get nearly as hot when wired in a pair like this)
sezc6fN.jpg


I hope this helps anybody else looking to switch to LED's!
 
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Just did this with Sicklefickers tips, worked perfect!!

fyi the wire on the passenger side was blue not yellow like the drivers side.

Thanks for posting that man, truly appreciated!!!
 
Yes, you can replace the rear ones with no resistors because they are already wired for LEDs.

Just an FYI, this isn't true pre 2013, poster was asking about 2011, maybe for 2014+ I would believe. I replaced the rears only on my 2013 and I get hyper flash. Oh well, back to bulbs not hacking oem wire for something so ridiculous, bulbs are cheap and actually have a softer curve on the blink, not instant on/off.
 
Just an FYI, this isn't true pre 2013, poster was asking about 2011, maybe for 2014+ I would believe. I replaced the rears only on my 2013 and I get hyper flash. Oh well, back to bulbs not hacking oem wire for something so ridiculous, bulbs are cheap and actually have a softer curve on the blink, not instant on/off.

I replaced my front drl/signals with rigid a-series when I put on my Addicted Offroad bumper. 6 ohms wired in parallel is what you need. Get the 100 watt rated resistors as they dissipate heat more effectively than the 50w ones, and do not get nearly as warm.

Uxcell 2 Piece Green Aluminum Housed Wirewound Resistors 100 Watt 6 ohm
 
Ah it would be one thing if knew where I could easily get a male/female set of connectors, I would just make a plug-and-play harness with resistors, just not feeling digging through tc connectivity for hours to find them. Thanks though, I'll keep this in mind if I get a aftermarket front bumper though :)
 
Ah it would be one thing if knew where I could easily get a male/female set of connectors, I would just make a plug-and-play harness with resistors, just not feeling digging through tc connectivity for hours to find them. Thanks though, I'll keep this in mind if I get a aftermarket front bumper though :)

deutche connectors
did mine right at the signal using the oem rigid wiring and some high temp 14 gauge stove wire
 
I have a 2014 T4R Limited with dual filament (7444na) front turn signal bulbs. I switched all the lights over to LED and was having issues with the front turn signals hyper-flashing. After reading all the posts i could find and trying every configuration listed with no success, I eventually stumbled onto a fix by just messing around and blowing a fuse or two by myself. I would like to pass on this information and show pictures of my setup which is now working flawlessly.

Turns out, I had to wire two resistors together, and then run it in parallel between the Ground (white/black) and the Flasher wire (Yellow).
0yVT3yu.jpg


A little closer view
Z1uBBN1.jpg


I didn't want to drill into my T4R so I cut a piece of aluminum to mount the resistors on. Also added a whole to add a punch clip to.
FOgTXM4.jpg


This is my final setup within the wheel well. Resistors are rivet-mounted to the piece of aluminum and the punch clip mounts it to an empty hole on the frame. doesn't matter how hot these things get, they are in no danger of touching anything else. (They don't get nearly as hot when wired in a pair like this)
sezc6fN.jpg


I hope this helps anybody else looking to switch to LED's!

Anyone else do this? I've never heard of 2 resistors being required. As many of you will know 2 6 ohm resistors in parallel is the same as a 3 ohm single resistor.

Do the resistor/resistors fit well behind the front fender liner? Hard to see the exact position in these pictures.

deutche connectors
did mine right at the signal using the oem rigid wiring and some high temp 14 gauge stove wire

What about this? Better front or rear or both? A picture would be worth 1000 words. Just looking for the cleanest type of install here.
 
Anyone else do this? I've never heard of 2 resistors being required. As many of you will know 2 6 ohm resistors in parallel is the same as a 3 ohm single resistor.

Do the resistor/resistors fit well behind the front fender liner? Hard to see the exact position in these pictures.



What about this? Better front or rear or both? A picture would be worth 1000 words. Just looking for the cleanest type of install here.

2016-10-25%2016.30.15_zpsjhsqjg2d.jpg~original
 
Thanks but how or did you use the connectors you linked to in your original reply?

Don't have a great photo, it's buried up behind the bumper. The resistor was soldered to the wiring from the a-series puck, which in turn was connected to the male Deutsch connectors, and the female side was connected to the oem signal wiring,nothing is changed with the relay itself. Super simple
20161116_160820_zpsegvnrm3t.jpg~original
 
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