2015 Trail Premium w/o KDDS- Break in? EXPERTS WANTED

MaliciousClout

New member
Hey guys-


I traded in my 2010 SR5 for a 2015 Super White Trail Premium and needless to say, I am in love.

I want to stay in love so I want to ask your opinion on the engine break in period. I have a total of 500 miles on it as of today. Had 5 on it when I drove off the lot. First time every I've ever own a brand new T4R. However it is my 5th one in my lifetime.

I realize I can reference the manual, or can I for break-in instructions? I wanted to ask the experts of this forum.

What is the best way to break in my new rig?
 
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Doesn't hurt to get opinions but that is what you find on that subject around here. The experts wrote the manuals :)
 
For the first 200 miles avoid sudden stops.
For the first 500 miles do not tow a trailer.
For the first 1000 miles do not drive at extremely high speeds;
-Avoid sudden acceleration.
-Do not drive continuously in low gears.
-Do not drive at a constant speed for extended periods.
Perform a Native American Rain Dance/ceremony within the first 30 days of ownership.

The last one may be the single most important.

(taken straight from the owners manual)
 
I wanted to ask the experts of this forum. What is the best way to break in my new rig?

images


At 500 miles I drained the cheap ass oil it had and put 0W- 20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance

mobil-1-extended-performance-oil.ashx
 
Engine break in, oil change internals, oil change brands... Its like religion and politics, everyone has different views on the topics so better just read the manual and do what pleases you.

Nothing will happen to your new engine. Just drive as you normally do.
 
The oil that would more than likely come with all Toyota vehicles from the factory would be TGMO (Toyota Genuine Motor Oil) in the 0W-20 flavor. This is a synthetic lubricant and has a very high viscosity index. In it's latest iteration as a SN oil, it is manufactured by ExxonMobil for Toyota to their specifications. The single quart containers look oh so familiar to the Mobil Super Synthetic bottles, except being black.

The current SN version has a very high VI (viscosity index) of 220; there are not many 0W-20 lubes that'll have that high of VI. Mobil 1 is somewhere around 170. TGMO 0W-20 has excellent cold flow properties and remains thick enough when hot -- 9.0 cSt at 100 degrees celsus. That is better than some 5W-30 lubes -- a lot those will shear down.

It has a good additive pack. It was a bit more robust with more Moly back in the SM days, but it is still great.

It is not a crappy, inferior or cheap passenger car motor oil. It can take a decent oil change interval. I would use it with great confidence in ANY of my applications that require a 20wt.
 
The oil that would more than likely come with all Toyota vehicles from the factory would be TGMO (Toyota Genuine Motor Oil) in the 0W-20 flavor. This is a synthetic lubricant and has a very high viscosity index. In it's latest iteration as a SN oil, it is manufactured by ExxonMobil for Toyota to their specifications. The single quart containers look oh so familiar to the Mobil Super Synthetic bottles, except being black.

The current SN version has a very high VI (viscosity index) of 220; there are not many 0W-20 lubes that'll have that high of VI. Mobil 1 is somewhere around 170. TGMO 0W-20 has excellent cold flow properties and remains thick enough when hot -- 9.0 cSt at 100 degrees celsus. That is better than some 5W-30 lubes -- a lot those will shear down.

It has a good additive pack. It was a bit more robust with more Moly back in the SM days, but it is still great.

It is not a crappy, inferior or cheap passenger car motor oil. It can take a decent oil change interval. I would use it with great confidence in ANY of my applications that require a 20wt.

shhhh.... don't let facts get in the way of their good stories....
 
Also, something else worth noting.

A 0W-20 lubricant will not be "overwhelmed" by the high(er) temperature climates within the US. Lets face it, if you're in Phoenix and the temperature it 95 degrees Fahrenheit, or you're in Buffalo and it's 15 degrees Fahrenheit, your vehicle's engine management system is designed to keep the operating temperature the same. Sure, there might be times or environments found on this planet that'll cook it, but for your everyday driving, you are fine.

If anything, short cold trips are worse with fuel dilution, condensation never being burned out of the oil, catalytic converters never reaching temp, etc.
 
Also, something else worth noting.

A 0W-20 lubricant will not be "overwhelmed" by the high(er) temperature climates within the US. Lets face it, if you're in Phoenix and the temperature it 95 degrees Fahrenheit, or you're in Buffalo and it's 15 degrees Fahrenheit, your vehicle's engine management system is designed to keep the operating temperature the same. Sure, there might be times or environments found on this planet that'll cook it, but for your everyday driving, you are fine.

If anything, short cold trips are worse with fuel dilution, condensation never being burned out of the oil, catalytic converters never reaching temp, etc.
I've posted viscosity charts, endless links, SAE papers and all other things since I have been a member here. Know what? The vast majority either does not understand or care. Several do and appreciate it but the others are still living in 1972 or going by what their dad and grandpappy told them. Everything you say in true but as evidenced by that previous post people still think "their" brand is best. What is the funniest thing? The guys who wrote the specs, designed the engines, determined the formulary and additive packs to farm out to the actual oil manufacturers and the guys who determine warranty are apparently dumb because some of the guys here think they are smarter than those guys.
 
I've posted viscosity charts, endless links, SAE papers and all other things since I have been a member here. Know what? The vast majority either does not understand or care. Several do and appreciate it but the others are still living in 1972 or going by what their dad and grandpappy told them. Everything you say in true but as evidenced by that previous post people still think "their" brand is best. What is the funniest thing? The guys who wrote the specs, designed the engines, determined the formulary and additive packs to farm out to the actual oil manufacturers and the guys who determine warranty are apparently dumb because some of the guys here think they are smarter than those guys.

Don't forget the guy that tested oil quality by the taste. I realllly liked that one.

This place is great.
 
I've posted viscosity charts, endless links, SAE papers and all other things since I have been a member here. Know what? The vast majority either does not understand or care. Several do and appreciate it but the others are still living in 1972 or going by what their dad and grandpappy told them. Everything you say in true but as evidenced by that previous post people still think "their" brand is best. What is the funniest thing? The guys who wrote the specs, designed the engines, determined the formulary and additive packs to farm out to the actual oil manufacturers and the guys who determine warranty are apparently dumb because some of the guys here think they are smarter than those guys.

Went through the same thing on the Accord forum, it is hard to convince people but hopefully someday. Perhaps when the 0W-16's are mainstream?

I've been on BITOG for a while now. I'm no oil pro, I just stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
 
Hey guys-


I traded in my 2010 SR5 for a 2015 Super White Trail Premium and needless to say, I am in love.

I want to stay in love so I want to ask your opinion on the engine break in period. I have a total of 500 miles on it as of today. Had 5 on it when I drove off the lot. First time every I've ever own a brand new T4R. However it is my 5th one in my lifetime.

I realize I can reference the manual, or can I for break-in instructions? I wanted to ask the experts of this forum.

What is the best way to break in my new rig?


Routinely use the full RPM range, get heat into the motor. Synthetic oil at the first oil change. Synthetic oil is so good these days, it prolongs break-in and you don't want that. My most recent Raptor, I drove it VERY heavy footed for the first couple thousand miles....

DO NOT BABY IT!
 
With o weight oil, synthetic is basically the only option you have to buy.

I have not seen regular dino oil at 0w-20 at the store I shop at.

Basically when one talks about 0w-20 oil its synthetic.
 
Routinely use the full RPM range, get heat into the motor. Synthetic oil at the first oil change. Synthetic oil is so good these days, it prolongs break-in and you don't want that. My most recent Raptor, I drove it VERY heavy footed for the first couple thousand miles....

DO NOT BABY IT!

:crazy:
 
Routinely use the full RPM range, get heat into the motor. Synthetic oil at the first oil change. Synthetic oil is so good these days, it prolongs break-in and you don't want that. My most recent Raptor, I drove it VERY heavy footed for the first couple thousand miles....

DO NOT BABY IT!

Title says EXPERTS wanted. Respect the thread duuuuuuude. :panda:
 

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